Which Amsoil European 5w40?

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Was thinking about switching our '08 Beetle 2.5l to Amsoil 5w40, but a little unsure on which offering to use? The application guide shows EFM 5w40 Full Saps And below that it shows Performance: AFL 5w40 Mid Saps Not being a Euro oil expert, what is the difference? And is one a better choice than the other??
 
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You want Lower SAPS (Sulfated Ash and Phosphorous ) newer diesels with diesel particulate filters . If you don't have any of those nagging emissions equipment, you want high SAPS. Higher SAPS = better wear. Do you have a gasser? If so just get the Mobil 1 0w40 from Walmart. $25/jug = $5 per quart, just as good as Amsoil, half the price. http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil_1_0W-40.aspx Mobil 1 0W-40 synthetic motor oil meets or exceeds the requirements of: API SN/SM/SL/SJ ACEA A3/B3, A3/B4 Nissan GT-R Mobil 1 0W-40 motor oil has the following builders approval: MB-Approval 229.3 MB-Approval 229.5 BMW LONGLIFE OIL 01 VW 502 00 VW 505 00 PORSCHE A40 According to ExxonMobil, Mobil 1 0W-40 is of the following quality: API CF VW 503 01 SAAB OPEL Long Life Service Fill GM-LL-A-025 OPEL Diesel Service Fill GM-LL-B-025 FIAT FIAT 9.55535 – M2 FIAT FIAT 9.55535 – N2 FIAT FIAT 9.55535 – Z2
 
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901, the 2.5 liter engine is a 5 cylinder gasser. The DPF concern is nonexistent with this setup. That being said, if both oils meet VW's 502.00 then pick the cheaper of the two. There won't be any significant difference in wear/performance. But again, choose the one that touts VW norm 502.00.
 
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Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Higher SAPS = better wear.
By what measure? The engine wear test requirements in the ACEA A/B sequences are mostly identical to those in the C sequences. Even ACEA C1 (low HTHS, low SAPS) has the same wear requirements as A3/B4 (high HTHS, high SAPS).
 
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That's the difference between a specification and performance. Specifications define the minimum standard, not what's achievable.
 
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Originally Posted By: Shannow
That's the difference between a specification and performance. Specifications define the minimum standard, not what's achievable.
+1
 

Johnny248

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The oil change history of this car is pretty unknown. There were a couple of refeipts in the glove box from a shop that shows it has Amsoil 5w30 in it at some point. The car was purchased used with about 80k on it, and now has 155k. From 80-~120k the oil changes were done at different quick lubes and shops. From there, it had a change with Demo 400LE, and then I started using Rotella T6. As much positive opinion as the T6 has, it doesn't actually meet the VW rating. I'm not really sure how important that is since the car has probably had incorrect oil in it in several occasions over its 150k life. I just thought that I would try switching to an actual VW spec'd oil and stick with it. The reason I didn't go with the M1 was simply my thinking that with somewhat higher mileage, the 5w of the T6 sounds better than the 0w of the M1. I was hoping that someone offered a high mileage option, but I've never seen such a thing. The car does leak a small amount of oil from the vacuum pump, and I have a feeling that it also consumes a little bit also. Just looking for the best option to keep this car on the road for as long as I can since my Fiance is love with it and has said numerous tomes that she doesn't want anything else. I've tried to purchase her a new Dart or something similar but she would rather have her user,older beetle than a brand new car. Go figure....
 
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Originally Posted By: Shannow
That's the difference between a specification and performance. Specifications define the minimum standard, not what's achievable.
True, so by what measure can you support the sweeping assertion that "higher SAPS = better wear"? The wear tests in ACEA are pretty demanding, and even more so in specs like VW 504 00/507 00, which is a mid-SAPS spec. In fact the wear requirements of the ACEA C categories are tougher than that for ACEA A3/B3. Thus, you can get a qualified A3/B3 product with worse wear performance than any ACEA C oil. Of course I am putting this out for debate, but one thing I don't like to see is sweeping generalisations made with no evidence. There are thousands of oils out there, some just meet specs, some blow them into the weeds.
 
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I would use a VW504 oil in a VW originally specd for 502 without hesitation. The performance standard is higher than and 502. Sure 502 has some potential to have better wear protection, but there is no proof the oil you choose will be or that 504 is not more than adequate. 504 excels in other areas also.
 
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Originally Posted By: Johnny248
Was thinking about switching our '08 Beetle 2.5l to Amsoil 5w40, but a little unsure on which offering to use? The application guide shows EFM 5w40 Full Saps And below that it shows Performance: AFL 5w40 Mid Saps Not being a Euro oil expert, what is the difference? And is one a better choice than the other??
Use the EFM 5W-40. Look at the price, I can assure you that the price is not 2X the M1 price, and if you are a PC the price is really pretty good. And it's a great oil.
 
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Originally Posted By: Johnny248
Was thinking about switching our '08 Beetle 2.5l to Amsoil 5w40, but a little unsure on which offering to use? The application guide shows EFM 5w40 Full Saps And below that it shows Performance: AFL 5w40 Mid Saps Not being a Euro oil expert, what is the difference? And is one a better choice than the other??
AFL mimicks 505.01 oils. EFM (which came much later), doesn't bother with 505.01 .... 505.01 is a Diesel spec for Pumpe-Duse engines. Why limit yourself to these oils? Don't say because they meet VW specs. No... they are not certified by VW for their specs. So, if you ignore VW specs, it opens up a wider world of possibilites. DEO is a great choice also. My old 02 Golf TDI was on DEO, when Amsoil formulated AFL to mimick 505.01. Then again, on my Passat 2.0T... I use Shell Rotella T or Chevron Delo 400 LE, whichever is cheaper.
 
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Originally Posted By: weasley
Originally Posted By: Shannow
That's the difference between a specification and performance. Specifications define the minimum standard, not what's achievable.
True, so by what measure can you support the sweeping assertion that "higher SAPS = better wear"? The wear tests in ACEA are pretty demanding, and even more so in specs like VW 504 00/507 00, which is a mid-SAPS spec. In fact the wear requirements of the ACEA C categories are tougher than that for ACEA A3/B3. Thus, you can get a qualified A3/B3 product with worse wear performance than any ACEA C oil. Of course I am putting this out for debate, but one thing I don't like to see is sweeping generalisations made with no evidence. There are thousands of oils out there, some just meet specs, some blow them into the weeds.
Can you tell us where did you find this information that to achieve C3 category oil have to pass stringent anti wear tests then A3/B4 oils? Thank you!
 
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Originally Posted By: chrisri
Originally Posted By: weasley
Originally Posted By: Shannow
That's the difference between a specification and performance. Specifications define the minimum standard, not what's achievable.
True, so by what measure can you support the sweeping assertion that "higher SAPS = better wear"? The wear tests in ACEA are pretty demanding, and even more so in specs like VW 504 00/507 00, which is a mid-SAPS spec. In fact the wear requirements of the ACEA C categories are tougher than that for ACEA A3/B3. Thus, you can get a qualified A3/B3 product with worse wear performance than any ACEA C oil. Of course I am putting this out for debate, but one thing I don't like to see is sweeping generalisations made with no evidence. There are thousands of oils out there, some just meet specs, some blow them into the weeds.
Can you tell us where did you find this information that to achieve C3 category oil have to pass stringent anti wear tests then A3/B4 oils? Thank you!
Well, I actually said A3/B3, but here you go.
 
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Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Do you have a gasser? If so just get the Mobil 1 0w40 from Walmart. $25/jug = $5 per quart, just as good as Amsoil, half the price.
I use both Amsoil EFM 5w-40 and M1 0w-40 in two VW vehicles (one Diesel and one gas) specifying 505.00 and 502.00 oils. Both are great oils, but M1 is not half the price of Amsoil. The PC cost of Amsoil EFM is very competitive with M1, even with shipping.
 

Johnny248

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So.... My significant other balked at the cost of ordering the Amsoil smirk so tried to pick up some M1 0w40 at Wally world and they are out of it, and I also noticed it went up to $28.xx for a jug. They also have the Castrol Edge 0w40 for $24.33 a 5qt jug, and the additonl quart is $7.18 (6 at system) That being said, when comparing to the Rotella T6 at $21.74 / Gallon, it would be more economical to buy 2 gallons vs 1 gallon + 2 qts, and in that case I'm better off buying 3 gallons to get 2 oil changes. Now.... Looking at the 2 change idea, to get 2 changes with T6 would cost $67.18 (3 gal + tax) . 2 changes with the Edge would be $66.80 (2 jugs + 2 QTS + tax) When you look at it that way, even though it is negligible, the Edge is less expensive and it is VW 502 spec'd which the T6 is not, although their tech line told me it was more than good enough for that engine? The oil filler says use Castrol Only lol, but I remember reading not such good things about this oil. Would it be a bad idea to go the Castrol route and stick to the T6 which is in the car now? Long post, I'm sure some of it is redundant and been covered before, sorry, but what is my beat option here? Thanks friends!
 
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I don't think new Castrol EDGE gold bottle is bad. It's supposed to be their top of the line product. Although if it makes you sleep better at night spend the extra 38 cents on T6.
 
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Don't worry about VW 502 cert oil. This engine is past that warranty period. Use an oil you feel comfortable with in the correct viscosity range (5w40) and keep up on your OCIs. The 2.5l is easy on oil. In this case, I would use T6, M1 or Castrol (in 0w30 or 0w40) and call it a day. There's no reason to overthink this or pay more for an oil the 2.5l won't even take advantage of.
 
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