Where is the best place to plumb coolant bypass??

[Mykro]

I'm installing my 4th Frantz on my Powerstroke as a coolant filter.. I'm not sure how I want to plumb it.. I was thinking to "T" into the heater hose coming off the block as the supply and "T" back into the heater hose returning to the water pump. I'm not sure how the pressure works within the cooling system.. Is there the same pressure within all hoses.. Such as... is there the same pressure in the heater hose supply line as there is in the return line?? Is the water pump "pushing" as well as "drawing" the coolant..
Can I use the heater supply line and return into the degas bottle? Or does the heater return line help draw the fluid too..

I'm open for suggestions...

Thanks

 

[deepsquat]

If you plumb it into the heater hose...won't the heater have to be in the "ON" position for it to move the water thru? Or if you tee it in both places will this bypass the heater core? In witch case will your heater still work...just playing devils advocate

 

[Bill Plock]

Most newer heaters are designed such that the heater cores are always flowing coolant and the amount of heat supplied is controlled with air flow dampers.

I added a Baldwin B5134 spin-on Coolant Filter to my 03 Duramax Diesel by tapping into the heater hoses... Works great... The filters cost about $6.00. I plan to replace the filter annually along with a routine coolant flush with distilled water.

See Coolant Filter Install Pictures for more info...

 

[Mykro]

quote:

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Originally posted by deepsquat:
If you plumb it into the heater hose...won't the heater have to be in the "ON" position for it to move the water thru? Or if you tee it in both places will this bypass the heater core? In witch case will your heater still work...just playing devils advocate

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Bill is right.. My heater core supply line is piping hot right up to where it enters the fire wall..
I went ahead and installed my Frantz coolant filter.. I installed with a brass "T" fitting at the heater supply line and returned to the degauss bottle at the top of the radiator.. Pics will be available soon.. It's working, only it filters slooowwly... I'd say at about 1/4 qrt or less per min.

 

[phordguy]

Here's what I was thinking, why not put a brass valve between the T and the heater core so that you can valve off the core in the summer thus extending its life and minimizing the crud entering it during non-use. This would force more coolant into the frantz and maybe filter more fluid at a higher rate, since it dumps into the degasser bottle and you have the valve you could "tune" the valve setting until you got the flow you were happy with.

 

[RalphPWood]

The way I install the Motor Guard on the coolant is I put tees in both heater hoses. Since the filter is lower than the heater I put valves in the lines going to the Motor Guard. There is of course pressure on both heater hoses but when the engine is running there will be a slight pressure difference. The Motor Guard will work fine with a very slight difference. It doesn't matter if the heater is on or off. After you get through if the Motor Guard gets hot it is working. If the element looks like you pulled it out of the bottom of a river don't worry it will look better the next time. Motor Guard has the best element for coolant because it was designed to handle water. Typically the water will cause the TP to start bypassing around the core.
Motor Guard elements will fit the Frantz but the core is the same plastic they make gas cans with and will melt somewhere around 200 degrees F. For high temperatures I collapse the core and remove it. I have a long pair of shears to cut the paper. It is too tough to tear straight. The paper is similar to coffee filter paper. The Motor Guard element is the same size as the Frantz. The coolant filters we see on trucks are a little better than nothing. The Motor Guard element has the same material as the truck filters but it is in a roll instead of in pleats. The Motor Guard is aluminum and epoxy coating. I'm not too big on steel for the coolant filters. I use some on the big equipment at work that take 200 gallons of coolant. I am going to use several Motor Guards in parallel when these big filters rot and fall apart.

Ralph

 

[TheTanSedan]

Glad to see this thread (and, thanks Bill Plock, have seen your install from a Google search).

As to turning the heater core "off": a properly-functioning HVAC system needs the core circulating constantly. The first job of the cooling function is to dry the air, to de-humidify it.

Thanks to all who contribute to this as I am thinking on an install of same, and appreciate the info and experience.

I will likely be installing a BALDWIN 5134 in conjunction with a MOPAR PERFORMANCE spin-on oil cooler (to which the oil filter then fits onto): from heater hose to coolant filter to oil cooler/oil filter and back to other hose on a 2001 Jeep Cherokee XJ (L6-242). Or, to cooler to filter . . . .

[ September 05, 2004, 12:10 AM: Message edited by: TheTanSedan ]

 

[Bill Plock]

quote:

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Originally posted by TheTanSedan:
Glad to see this thread (and, thanks Bill Plock, have seen your install from a Google search)

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Thanks for the feedback ... Glad to hear the pics were a help...

 

[FrankNB]

For coolant bypass with M-30, how about using a TP roll and a stainless tube insinde the TP to stop it from collapsing?

 

[olympic]

Some vehicles have a heated throttle body. Those lines are quite small and would provide a good place to tap in a bypass filter. My SHO motor has this feature(which I've disabled in hopes of a cooler intake) and installed a small metal fuel filter in the circuit to act as a bypass to catch any debris.

 

[FrankNB]

Never mind my question above.. I forgot how the M-30 was constructed..

 

[RalphPWood]

That's a good idea.
When I bought my 6.9 Ford diesel the coolant looked very clean and green. I put tees in the heater hoses and installed an old Motor Guard M-100. It took about three filter changes before the TP started looking like it hadn't been laying in a mud hole. I put valves in the lines because the filter is lower than the heater core. I thought about using the Motor Guard elmenents because they can handle water without getting soggy. The problem is they are about the same color as the coolant contamination and the polyethylene core is rated at only 175 F. I can remove the core and it works but I like the white elements.
The 8.3 Cummins at work gets coolant to the filter from a pipe plug under the thermostat and it is returned to the top of the radiator.

Ralph

 

[FrankNB]

So, is there a problem in using toilet paper in a Motorguard M-30 for coolant purposes? I'm contemplating the idea..

 

[FrankNB]

And using regular coolant?

 

[Mykro]

quote:

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Originally posted by FrankNB:
And using regular coolant?

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I'm using the Evans Waterless Propylene Glycol Coolant..


http://evanscooling.com/main23.htm


http://community.webshots.com/album/114815318vlzHVh

 

[trynew]

I purchased a used Motor Guard on ebay a while back, but never got the nerve to use it. However, a couple of weeks ago, I decided it try it as a coolant filter. I put it in a small hose that carries coolant to the intake manifold. I bought some Scott 1000 rolls and put in one. It was too fat, so I unrolled just enough to squeeze it in. After driving for several days, I took a look at it. The end of the roll was all brown with dirt or whatever, but the roll looked good and intact overall though filled with green colored coolant and water. I think the reason that only the end was brown was because I didn't unroll enough that it fit so tight that no fluid got up on the sides of the roll. Also, I think the core was a little too big and was letting fluid by without being filtered, but maybe that lack of pressure was easier on the water-laden roll. I was using a proplyene glycol (Sierra)/water mixture. I put in another roll and haven't checked it for a week but hope to do so soon.

 

[RalphPWood]

All I have ever used for coolant is the old Motor Guard M-100. The core is too small for the newer TP. I have set up the M-30 so that it will seal better using the newer TP. I have never used anything but TP but I think I will test the M-30 at work with both the Motor Guard element and TP. The Motor Guard element has some advantages with water. I think it has a little less resistance and will absorb contaminants deeper than TP The Motor Guard element has the same micron rating. The TP will filter about 50 times small than the big name coolant filters. That is important to keep the water pump seal from wearing out before it's time.
I am getting good at removing the plastic core from the M-723 element. Think of the M-723 element as coffee filter paper in a roll. You can get the elements from www.mcmaster.com catalog 9841K93. Remove the plastic core and the paper will suck up against the filter core.

Ralph

 

[trynew]

Going back to Olympic's interesting suggestion of using a metal fuel filter to filter the coolant, would coolant be able to go through this filter without plugging it? Also, with the amount of crud I saw on the end of my toilet paper roll, it seems that the tiny fuel filter would plug almost immediately. A clear plastic fuel filter would allow you to watch for clogging, but maybe they can't take the heat.

 

[RalphPWood]

Unless the coolant has found a way around the TP the filter won't heat up when it plugs. Some filters don't clog up as much because they don't clean the coolant. They are what I call make believe filters.

Ralph

 

[trynew]

I have an old MotorGuard M-100 that I use for a coolant filter. I was trying to find some of the toilet paper rolls that had the small cores, and it looked like the Cottenelle double-sized roll had these, but then I found that K-Mart sold the individually wrapped Scott 1000 rolls with the smaller cores. It is a tight fit over the MotorGuard center, but that should seal much better.