When to switch to synthetic for honda gx630

[dukebh40]

Hey guys, I just repowered my steiner 420 with a kit from repower specialists. If any of you guys need an engine for your old equipment in the future, I really recommend these guys. They run a very good business and are very helpful with anything you need along the way!

Anyway, I'm running castrol gtx 10w-30 in it for the first twenty hours until honda recommends the first oil change. I'm going to run synthetic in this eventually, probably pennzoil platinum as I already use it and have it around. Would 20 hours on an engine be too soon to switch it over to synthetic? If so, how long would you guys say is okay to make the switch?

Thanks guys!!

 

[901Memphis]

No switch it sooner if you can. I recommend Mobil 1 10w30. GTX isn't anything special at all.

 

[PhilsSmallEngine]

You can run full synthetic from new. There is nothing I've seen that would limit you from running day 1 on synthetics (other than expense). The engine states API Specification SJ or higher and 5w30 full synthetic. You can use a variety of oils that meet the requirements.

If you operate in very cold climates:
Amsoil Signature 0w30 is API SN, SM
For all other uses:
Signature 5w30 is API SN, SM
4-Stroke 10w30 is API SL, SJ, SH, SG

You don't have to use the more expensive Signature as you can also use the less expensive OE and XL versions as well. I would recommend them only in the 5w30 specification while sticking with Signature if you desire to run the 0w30 due to being less volatile than the XL and OE.

For your oil filter 15410MFJD01 according to Honda's manual cross specs to motorcycle filters which converts to Amsoil as EAOM103-EA and Wix as 51358 or 51365.

Mobile 1, Yamalube, Kawalube, Briggs, Pennzoil full synthetics are also good choices. This is where I wouldn't cheap out. You paid a premium for a premium engine and you want it to last. And don't be shy about hitting a local marina (if available) and buying non-ethanol gasoline for it. That will help save you service issues with the carburetor if you run the engine infrequently.

 

[Ausfahrt]

Never.

 

[Bror Jace]

" I'm running Castrol GTX 10w-30 in it for the first twenty hours until Honda recommends the first oil change."

Change the oil the first time at 3 hours. the 2nd time at 8-10 hours then the 3rd time at 20 hours.

Then switch to the synthetic of your choice.

 

[dukebh40]

I'm also going to be picking up some napa filters, go with the gold 1356 or 7356? I'm kinda confused on that issue

 

[PhilsSmallEngine]

The difference is in their filter media and color. 7356 is Cellulose/Poly Blend and 1356 is Glass Enhanced Cellulose. There is a $.20 difference between the two and both will do the job just fine. I wish Napa specified their filtration efficiencies based on media.

 

[chewy781]

Originally Posted By: Bror Jace
" I'm running Castrol GTX 10w-30 in it for the first twenty hours until Honda recommends the first oil change."

Change the oil the first time at 3 hours. the 2nd time at 8-10 hours then the 3rd time at 20 hours.

Then switch to the synthetic of your choice.
do it like this, i have personally done it at 5, 10, and at the 20 hour mark myself. just change the oil more often for the first couple of hours to get the metal shaving and what not out of it.

 

[hatt]

Originally Posted By: chewy781
Originally Posted By: Bror Jace
" I'm running Castrol GTX 10w-30 in it for the first twenty hours until Honda recommends the first oil change."

Change the oil the first time at 3 hours. the 2nd time at 8-10 hours then the 3rd time at 20 hours.

Then switch to the synthetic of your choice.
do it like this, i have personally done it at 5, 10, and at the 20 hour mark myself. just change the oil more often for the first couple of hours to get the metal shaving and what not out of it.

What's the oil filter doing? I can see one early change after a couple hours to make sure everything looks normal, but multiple changes may be a little overkill. Hondas without filters will run forever without all that. Out in the field they're lucky to get oil changes at all, never mine 4-5 in 20 hours.

 

[Bror Jace]

hatt, you have a point and it is one that is brought up frequently on this site: OPE can often survive tremendous amounts of abuse and still provide good service.

However, many of us also know OPE engines that are hard to start, smoke terribly and are down on power ... and those are more-than-likely the neglected ones.

The bottom line is that servicing OPE is very cheap and simple. Why not err on the side of caution?

Look at this snowblower oil with about 90 minutes of run-time on it:

http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee149...zps40854167.jpg

I think I was right to change it when I did. 2nd change looked just a little better than this stuff. Again, no regrets dumping it out at around the 8 hour mark.

 

[hatt]

I agree it's cheap and easy but that's not the question. Does it do any good is. I hate wasting time and money. Even $20. I'm so cheap I didn't change the oil in my 25+ year old JD/Kawasaki. It only ran 25-30 hours last year and looked the same as when it came out the bottle(yes I'm aware color isn't an indicator of oil condition). I probably will end up changing it seeing the recent Purolater filter problems. I seriously doubt that Kawasaki got all that attention when it was new. Still runs like a top and will surely outlast the mower at this point. I know my 15+ year old pressure washer with Honda GX390 didn't since I bought it new. It used to get ran pretty hard back when I was in the business. It wore out a commercial belt driven pump along the way. It'll start on the first pull after sitting up for six months+.

 

[Bror Jace]

hatt, it's going to be practically impossible to prove that extra oil changes will help an engine. You'd need at least a couple dozen engines, tear them down to eliminate manufacturing variances, rebuild them and then conduct your test, running each for hundreds, maybe thousands, of hours. And then you might only prove something about one engine and oil combination.

That's why you'll see filter cut up "studies" but few real tests of how well various filters work on engines over time.

So you're cheap? My heart goes out to cheap. I have filtered used oil with coffee filters, etc ... before re-using it. My point is to get all the metal bits

Glad you have had good luck with your OPE. It's just that when I see the crud that comes out of these new, freshly-broken-in engines, everything in my head/gut tells me the motor will be better off if that's abrasive slurry is drained and replaced with clean oil.

(BTW, if you drain oil when cold, it will be much cleaner then when hot and well mixed up. The darkest oil and contaminants slowly drop to the bottom of the sump as the engine sits and cools.)