When to replace a battery?

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When it dies for no reason.

Oh, and I don't care if it's weak and is putting a strain on my alternator and/or starter. Both my alternator and starter have been replaced once and the replacements have a lifetime warranty.
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Originally Posted By: johnd
I'd really like to move my battery to a cooler location. Where I live, i think heat kills them more than anything else.


Some cars have a battery insulator. It's just a foam wrap that goes over the battery. Often this gets removed with the old battery and isn't re-installed on the new one.
 
I've never seen them come with the battery, but it would probably be a cheap way for battery manufacturers to cut down on warranty replacements.
 
my battery is a 7 yr old duralast battery. I have one of those black and decker battery chargers that charge through the cig lighter. every few months I charge the ole battery and it is fully charged in five seconds. I have a lifetime autozone alternator too. I never had a batter last this long. I leave the black and decker booster charger in the glovebox in case it does die suddenly.
 
Duralast battery is made by Johnson Controls. I've had very good luck with them, including a Motorcraft battery that lasted 6 years in my mom's old car. (Didn't even add water to it..bet it would've lasted even longer if I had)
 
Originally Posted By: JustinH
GM put the battery for my saturn ion in the trunk of the car.

Great idea, i'm sure it will last a long time there.
It's the same with the Chrysler 300. Aside from extending battery life it also helps balance the weight distribution as well.
 
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When to replace a battery?


I will replace a battery at the first sign of it not delivering full power, which is after about five to six years. If I have to crank the engine more the 1/4 second, I get a new battery. Two weeks ago I bought a new one because I knew I was going to drive into the cold Sierra Nevada and I didn't want to risk my 6 year old battery to suddenly kick it at below freezing.
 
I just replaced the battery in my 06TL. It seems they had a bad batch and extended the free replacement warranty to 3 years. I went ahead and installed an Optima myself instead of taking it to the dealer. Don't feel like taking it in for a simple battery replacement and have a "tech" cause 3 other problems or get the car back smelling like stale beer and an extra 13 miles on it like last time (I'm a little bitter).

Mine was leaking at the top and cranking was getting slower and slower. It made me nervous a couple mornings. Rerserve with the volume on the stereo low went from 30 minutes to less than 5 minutes. The last couple months I would turn off most electrical things like the seat heaters and fan a couple miles before I got home but it didn't help. If it were just me driving it and it usually is, I would've let it go a little longer but with my luck it would've failed with the GF driving.

I have noticed that even with the Optima, cranking is inconsistant. Regardless of temp, time from last drive, etc, sometimes it cranks fast and sometimes slow.
 
Originally Posted By: BuickGN
I just replaced the battery in my 06TL. It seems they had a bad batch and extended the free replacement warranty to 3 years. I went ahead and installed an Optima myself instead of taking it to the dealer. Don't feel like taking it in for a simple battery replacement and have a "tech" cause 3 other problems or get the car back smelling like stale beer and an extra 13 miles on it like last time (I'm a little bitter).

Mine was leaking at the top and cranking was getting slower and slower. It made me nervous a couple mornings. Rerserve with the volume on the stereo low went from 30 minutes to less than 5 minutes. The last couple months I would turn off most electrical things like the seat heaters and fan a couple miles before I got home but it didn't help. If it were just me driving it and it usually is, I would've let it go a little longer but with my luck it would've failed with the GF driving.

I have noticed that even with the Optima, cranking is inconsistant. Regardless of temp, time from last drive, etc, sometimes it cranks fast and sometimes slow.


I think you may have more than battery problems, like a bad battery cable connection or a bad starter.
 
On my my Buick (and Chevy) the starter motor tended to come loose, then the car wouldn't start. The starter was attached with two puny bolts (or could have been screws)...
 
I replaced my stock battery in this 05 AccentGt the first summer. It was a 450CCA and simply inadequate to the task. The AC would cycle on and off and the headlights would flicker with the cycles. The windows were slow to go up and down, and the heater didn't blow as hard, all indicating to em that there was no reserve and the alternator was doing ALL the work. I replaced it with the biggest Duralast Gold (1000CA, 900CCA) to a great effect. The headlights lost the flicker, the cabin air fan was much breezier and the power windows positively raced up and down the tracks. Bad part was, that thing was so big it impinged on the hood-rod clip. So, sold it to a buddy with a larger Nissan 6 months later and bought a Costo/Kirkland that's 900CA-800/CCA and small enough to fit the tray, but still neary twice the capacity as the stocker. At 60.00 a great buy.

Point is, so WHAT if the old battery cranks? If the thing is running even 1/3 down from it's original capacity at 4 years (or three or even two), why not save the load on the alternator, the accessories and the starter? Seems like such a false economy to me when you consider the ramifications of a faulty (if slightly) $60.00 battery. Especially when you consider one tow can cost you $150.00 in addition to the sheer fun of a breakdown to begin with. Pay em now or pay em later..
 
The test that AAP did and said voltage was OK, but it only put out 298 amps? How and what did they use to test it. One might suspect they used a carbon pile load tester and just turned the dial (to increase the load) until the voltage dropped below the listed voltage for the battery temp.

However unless they pulled off the battery clamps and connected the load tester directly to clean battery posts they may have not done a proper reading.

And its not mentioned how long they had a load on the battery.

The proper way to test is to put a load of 1/2 the CCA for 15 seconds, read the voltage and check it for the battery temp.
 
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