when to change tranny fluid on 2010 Toyota Camry

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The owner's manual appears to contain no recommended interval on when to change the auto tranny fluid on my 2010 Toyota Camry which I just bought at 86k and which has no record on any fluid changes. All the manual says to do is check the fluid every so often. I don't believe in lifetime fluids. What would be reasonable here? Am concerned that if I wait much longer, it might be too late and I might do harm. Have read a bunch of stories about trannies grenading when the fluid is changed after 100k. What do people think? Also, would prefer to use a synthetic fluid but my dealer put a 100k warranty on this car and I am concerned using non-Toyota fluid before 100k might void the warranty. Thanks as always for all thoughtful responses. After this initial change whenever, it might be, what interval afterward?
 
I'd have the dealer change it but only if they have a good service dept. Coordinate with the Service Manager to put their best tech on it. Also view this video . I'd only use the recommended oem fluid in there.

I believe the 2010 Camry 4 cyl doesn't have an atf dipstick?

Also another video you may like.

Have a nice day gentlemen!
 
We have a 2013 RAV4 with the same type of transmission and the same fluid.

Our dealer has told us that the best thing to do is to leave the fluid alone. They have seen numerous failures due to incorrect fluid level after somebody changed the fluid. This seems to be due to the difficulty of getting the new level "just right", even when using the factory-specified procedure.

I have decided that the dealer is probably justified in their opinion, and I'm just going to leave the fluid alone unless I start seeing drips under the car.

Oddly, the CVT fluid in our 2015 Corolla is specified to be replaced at normal intervals, using a normal and easy procedure.
 
You can do a couple of drain and refills with Toyota or Aisin WS fluid with 4-500 miles in between and you can get the bulk of the old fluid and particulate matter out and refresh the additives. Filter is only a fine mesh screen so no big deal if you don't want to do a pan drop. Double check you manual for fluid type; should be WS. Here is a source for Aisin brand - Aisin WS Fluid
Toyota brand is at your dealer but is cheaper from E Bay unless you have a source.
 
Do it. I don't believe in the "gunk holds stuff together" theory. Gunk keeps valve bodies from moving swiftly, and being in two gears simultaneously is something I like to minimize. Otherwise the trans shreds itself with itself.

IMO a slow leak will kill more trannies than owners accidentally mis-filling. Just get two identical beakers and a HF postal scale; measure (the weight of) what comes out and put exactly that back in.
 
Originally Posted By: Tegger
We have a 2013 RAV4 with the same type of transmission and the same fluid.

Our dealer has told us that the best thing to do is to leave the fluid alone. They have seen numerous failures due to incorrect fluid level after somebody changed the fluid. This seems to be due to the difficulty of getting the new level "just right", even when using the factory-specified procedure.

I have decided that the dealer is probably justified in their opinion, and I'm just going to leave the fluid alone unless I start seeing drips under the car.

Oddly, the CVT fluid in our 2015 Corolla is specified to be replaced at normal intervals, using a normal and easy procedure.


Surprised they didn't upsell on transmission fluid drain / refill.
 
Pan drain for now. Use the OEM or better fluid. Have the dealership do it for you if you want no warranty issues. If everything is still ok in a few months or at 100K, do another pan and drain.
 
Change it now. It most probably is a sealed tranny (without a dipstick) if not you are just lucky.

I am a strong advocate of flushes, either sealed / with a dip stick, find the return line and do a flush with the fluid of choice.

In sealed transmissions, I flush filling by measuring it. In the case of dip stick transmissions, the same process but easy to measure level.
 
I'm leaving mine alone. I think it will go 300k miles on the factory fill.
 
Make sure that you drain and measure cold and then refill with cold ATF. if you drain hot you will be taking out less than you put back cold. Therefore you will overfill your tranny. Drain and fill need to be same temps if you are measuring.
 
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Drain and refill. Do it in moderation and often and you should see no problem. I change HCF2 CVT Fluid every 28-35k in my Honda no matter if the service light comes on of not. If its got a bunch of miles, then siphon a qt or two and every other oci keep doing it. After 50k,drain some, do a uoa on your fluid a good from there. If it a HM vehicle,just a basic fluid specd for your vehicle will work.
 
If in doubt, get it out is the rule for engine oils or fluids!

Some OEM's do not list box oil changes cos they like worn or defective boxes as it's good for business. Use the OEM fluid for sure and read the warranty terms about who is allowed to change it. If non dealer fluids changes are allowed, get a full receipt and the service record booklet stamped.

You need special tools to change the fluid and clean the filter with some newer auto boxes. Be careful when filling to check how much is needed for a dump and fill, as it is often only half the total capacity.
 
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You might want to get some more information from www.toyotanation.com as they are a great source. I did several drain and fills on my 2010 Highlander and I have noticed a big difference in how well the transmission performs since doing this.
 
Originally Posted By: mctmatt
You might want to get some more information from www.toyotanation.com as they are a great source. I did several drain and fills on my 2010 Highlander and I have noticed a big difference in how well the transmission performs since doing this.


I'd go there. I'd be surprised if there wasn't a DIY for this transmission there already.

For my Tundra's sealed transmission I was able to do a fluid exchange, based on a DIY I found on a Tundra site. Honestly... it's only slightly more of a pain than one with a dipstick, IMO, after having done both. Well, it'd be 2x on a Camry where you have to lift in order to pull the check plug (I can do that on my Tundra w/o lifting). But on my Camry's dipstick, I have to wait a few hours to recheck level after adding--the bends in the tube make it impossible to read level quickly after adding. On your Camry, once lifted up and with the trans at the right temp (after having done the job earlier), a simple transfer pump (like this ) can be used to top off the level, quickly and easily.
 
Re. trannys without a dipstick or otherwise tricky to get the right level:
Couldn't one simply measure what's drained out and put the same amount back in?
Do this a couple times with short intervals instead of flushing?
 
Originally Posted By: circuitsmith
Re. trannys without a dipstick or otherwise tricky to get the right level:
Couldn't one simply measure what's drained out and put the same amount back in?
Do this a couple times with short intervals instead of flushing?


You can, but two problems:
-ATF needs to be the same temperature, what comes out vs what goes in. ATF expands when hot, which is why ATF dipsticks have cold and hot markings
-this assumes the factor (or prior owner, or prior dealership) got the level correct last time. Which is probably correct, but...

Oh and another problem: any goof on your end will lead to a situation. Kicked the pan over? spilled while draining into another container? When I pulled an ATF line on my Tundra I managed to pull the wrong one, and found out just how far ATF can shoot...

That said, after reading a few forums, you'd hardly be the first to do this (measure and refill with the same amount); and it appears this has been successfully done.
 
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