When to change oil under storage conditions

[Synesthesia]

Greetings all, was referred to you from another member. I did a search and couldn't find anything on my question, I'm wondering when to change the oil on 2 cars that see alot of storage time.

In general I'v been changing it once a year, right before spring startup, but I'm wondering if its too excessive. Over the years people have noted that new oil has some additives that can cause problems with the cats or other areas, others say it can become slightly acidic just sitting and then causes issues.

I want to make it perfectly clear that I don't care one bit about saving money by extending changes, and I care even less about global warming.

The first car specs
- Year 2000
- only 56k on the clock
- Mobil 1 5w30(may change to valvoline full syn)
- Factory supercharged and various mods
- High flow aftermarket cats
- Only 300-800 miles PER YEAR (no exceptions since 2004)
- Driven no less then 20 miles at a time
- Originally stored in climate control garage
- Past 2 years stored in temps ranging from 25-85 degrees
- NEVER driven in the rain or from mid Nov - mid Mar
- Generally driven every other month between Mar-Nov
- 100% of the time kept inside a carcapsule, Nothing gets to it, so little moisture that even after 4+ months the brake rotors are even spotless.

Prepped for storage each time with near empty gas tank and fuel stabilizer, tirecradle pads, no handbrake, Smart battery tender, recir etc

2nd car specs
- Year 2008
- 5200 miles
- V8 NA engine, mostly stock
- Driven 1000-3500 miles/year
- Sometimes see's rain and short trips
- Stored from Dec - Feb
- Mobil 1 full syn
- Mostly kept inside carcapsule

And lastly, if the oil is still good what would be the pro's/con's of always changing at such low intervals, but 12 month timeframes. A few people have suggested I drain the old oil and throw it in my Jeep.

 

[Greggy_D]

Once a year is right on for your conditions. You could just use the cheapest SM rated dino and get away with it, but since $$$$ is not a concern with you....M1 is fine.

 

[Synesthesia]

Both cars require Syn from the factory and I like the benefits. I also have a 2000 grand cherokee v8 with 125k on the clock, runs strong, no leaks, so I still use M1 syn (though I go 3500 miles between changes)

 

[Greggy_D]

Sounds good then.

 

[HyperJinx]

I have a couple "hobby" cars that do not see 3k a year. I change the oil every November. So once a year would be my suggestion as well.

 

[Synesthesia]

What about claims that always using "new" oil puts strain on cats and other parts with anti-wear additives (ironic I know)

A few years ago I came to the conclusion that I want to keep this car forever, in like new running condition, so I'm really interested in whats best in terms of preserving everything. I would like to take out the spark plugs and add some oil before storage, but at 6-8 hours of work its alittle much

 

[demarpaint]

Change the oil once a year before the car is put up. Not sure why you store the car with the gas tank near empty is should be full. There is less chance of moisture and fuel related problems. I would use stabil and 1 qt of MMO then fill the tank. Take the car for about a 30 minute run, park it then do the oil change and prep the car. The MMO will keep things in the combustion chamber from flash rusting.

 

[bepperb]

I understand the hassle of changing the oil that maybe doesn't need it, my motorcycle only got ~400 miles this year. But I still do it annually.

M1 is a good oil, if you're happy with it keep on.

 

[Synesthesia]

Interesting point, some people have said to do it before storing, but why not when coming out of storage? that way it is fresh oil AND more important to me is on an engine thats been sitting I get to pour oil over the valves and help atleast alittle bit with startup

The gas tank issue I disagree with (on modern tanks) on old metal tanks you wanted to keep it full, this is a plastic tank, and like I said there is so little moisture the rotors don't even show signs, additional, modern fuel injected cars are under pressure, so as long as your gas cap passes its test during emissions there should be no excuse for moisture getting into the tank.

I much perfer to run it near empty and have some fuel stablizer then risk having 20 gallons of bad gas in there causing issues. Even with fuel stabilizer, when spring comes around I go out and get 5 gallons of fresh gas and pour in before starting it up.

 

[Bamaro]

I have a car that gets less than 1000 miles per year. No trip is ever less than 20 miles. Had my oil (MaxLife) tested by Blackstone after leaving it in about 3 years and the report was fine. Blackstone basically said to keep on doing what I was doing.

 

[FastSUV]

hello BHR!!! You finally caved in and came over so u could "resume posting" LOL

 

[Patman]

Originally Posted By: Synesthesia
Interesting point, some people have said to do it before storing, but why not when coming out of storage? that way it is fresh oil AND more important to me is on an engine thats been sitting I get to pour oil over the valves and help atleast alittle bit with startup


How about this: change the oil before storage but put one less quart in there than the capacity. Then just before you fire it up in the spring, add that fresh quart of oil, that way you get that fresh oil poured over the top end (although keep in mind it will only end up on a small portion of the valvetrain when you do this)

 

[pavelow]

I always change the oil and filter before putting an engine into short or long term storage. It gets the moisture and contaminated oil out of the engine. Rust is the #1 killer of stored engines.

 

[Synesthesia]

Hello fast. Nope, JU will rue the day. Every night I go through and add posts to a list to all go down at once, and lotgod has approved. On the otherhand Novajeepers, Mazdaworld, and Audiworld are seeing alot of me lately ;-)

Interesting point about moisture in the oil and changing it before hand. Would there be any reason to keep any oil in it? why not just leave it empty and fill in the spring time? How much moisture could it have after so few miles as well? I'm sure most of this is excessive but oil has always been the gray area and I want to make sure I'm doing everything I can.

 

[SilverC6]

Annual changes work for me.

I change the oil on my low use auto every fall.

 

[Herz]

i got a pretty much dead toy 22r engine in the yard and I change the oil and filter every year with the cheapest [censored] I can find. I like to start the truck every month or so. That way fresh oil hits the engine and prevents corrosion.

 

[FastSUV]

Originally Posted By: Synesthesia
Hello fast. Nope, JU will rue the day. Every night I go through and add posts to a list to all go down at once, and lotgod has approved. On the otherhand Novajeepers, Mazdaworld, and Audiworld are seeing alot of me lately ;-)

Interesting point about moisture in the oil and changing it before hand. Would there be any reason to keep any oil in it? why not just leave it empty and fill in the spring time? How much moisture could it have after so few miles as well? I'm sure most of this is excessive but oil has always been the gray area and I want to make sure I'm doing everything I can.


do conventional or synthetic blend every 6 months OR Mobil 1 once per year...that is my preferred formula for my ZJ that sees maybe 3k per year now...works fine