When to Change Motor Mounts

[amateurbob]

I am noticing vibrations at idle on both of my older hondas (2012 accord and 2011 crv) especially after turning on the ac.

The accord oem mounts l think l get for (Honda) reasonable roughly $600. The crv mounts are much more absurd at a $1000+.

Other than annoyance will leaving mounts like this cause any problems?

 

[IndyIan]

As long as they don't allow "excessive" movement, then a bit of hardening or a some extra movement isn't a big deal. Have someone hold the brake and go from drive to reverse a few times to see how much slop there is now.
Also, do some reading in some Honda forums, as there is likely a cheaper decent replacement. Almost all motor mounts are pretty simple to replace in my experience, so I don't mind trying a cheaper one.

 

[grasscutter]

Have someone hold the brake and go from drive to reverse a few times to see how much slop there is now.

My front center mount was separated all the way through, but you'd never know it just by looking at it while the engine is idling.

 

[D60]

I have no idea if these are fluid filled but if so don't buy any old aftermarket rubber.

And try to avoid Anchor/Westar. That stuff is only good (barely) for a quick flip.

I put DEA in a '98 CRV and they felt pretty junky in-hand.

And don't ever do motor mounts on an Astro van. Just go straight to the lobotomy as it'll be faster and the end result is the same.

 

[ctechbob]

Excessive movement will take a toll on the exhaust. You don't want to be breaking studs or converters, so it is a good idea to replace the mounts.

My J Series cars came with the 'fluid filled' mounts, and those went to the graveyard ages ago. I just use whatever cheap replacements at this point, except on the Acura. It tends to eat up the front mount, so it has an Innovative designs (I think that was the company) bushing type mount.

The whole liquid filled thing isn't that big of a deal for an older car, just make sure to block off the vacuum line that runs to them so you don't have a leak.