When is the best time to use polish and even though it states clear coat safe can you use it safely once a year?Thanks Joe
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When/How Often to Polish Vehicle Paint?
- Thread starter Joeescape63
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Joe, you need to be more specific on what you want to do and what results you're trying to achieve.
Is this a new vehicle?
Is this new paint work?
What specific product are you talking about?
Is this the vehicle in your signature?
Are you talking about a wax/silicon product with a fine polishing grit in it?
Or just a wax/silicone polish w/cleaners?
Is this a new vehicle?
Is this new paint work?
What specific product are you talking about?
Is this the vehicle in your signature?
Are you talking about a wax/silicon product with a fine polishing grit in it?
Or just a wax/silicone polish w/cleaners?
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As said, it depends on the product. I have no issue claying a car and using a fine polish to remove "love marks" once a year.
I'll typically only compound a car to remove heavy defects once - it really shouldn't need more than that with proper care. If it's new, I would absolutely compound any dealer-instsalled scratches and follow up by polishing the whole car.
Here's a photo of my lawnmower, brought to you in part by Meguiar's Ultimate Polish:
I'll typically only compound a car to remove heavy defects once - it really shouldn't need more than that with proper care. If it's new, I would absolutely compound any dealer-instsalled scratches and follow up by polishing the whole car.
Here's a photo of my lawnmower, brought to you in part by Meguiar's Ultimate Polish:
Propflux01
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Man, I thought I was the only one that did that !
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Originally Posted by Propflux01
Man, I thought I was the only one that did that !
Haha me too!!
Man, I thought I was the only one that did that !
Haha me too!!
OP:
"Polish" is an ambiguous term. I agree with all of Char Baby's comments. And rooflessVW, very nice!
If the paint you want to "polish" is in new factory condition, I'd use nothing more than a sealer. If it has a little bit of embedded stuff in the paint, clay bar it first. I never use abrasives (many polishes are abrasive, however slight) unless I am trying to correct some kind of paint damage.
My go to product for paint protection and shine for my "drivers" is Jescar Power Lock+. It's a sealer. It's super easy to apply and remove, so easy I seal the nose of my drivers almost every time I wash them. Bugs and debris don't stick.
Attached are pictures of my bought new by me, 2010 Honda Element that has 180K miles on it now! That's me in the driver's door. I had just put a coat of Jescar on it. It's been clay barred several times over it's lifetime, but it's never been "polished".
Proper washing detergents and technique are the biggest factor of all when it come to keeping your paint looking good.
Scott
"Polish" is an ambiguous term. I agree with all of Char Baby's comments. And rooflessVW, very nice!
If the paint you want to "polish" is in new factory condition, I'd use nothing more than a sealer. If it has a little bit of embedded stuff in the paint, clay bar it first. I never use abrasives (many polishes are abrasive, however slight) unless I am trying to correct some kind of paint damage.
My go to product for paint protection and shine for my "drivers" is Jescar Power Lock+. It's a sealer. It's super easy to apply and remove, so easy I seal the nose of my drivers almost every time I wash them. Bugs and debris don't stick.
Attached are pictures of my bought new by me, 2010 Honda Element that has 180K miles on it now! That's me in the driver's door. I had just put a coat of Jescar on it. It's been clay barred several times over it's lifetime, but it's never been "polished".
Proper washing detergents and technique are the biggest factor of all when it come to keeping your paint looking good.
Scott
I'll second what SLO_Town said. Make sure you properly define your terms and intent. Assuming your finish needs to be polished at all, you should only have to do so one time and then with a proper wash regimen and treatment with a product like Jescar Power Lock (I also use this on our MDX and it does a great job, the car gets dirty at a much slower rate) you theoretically should never need to polish again (or at least not for a very long time).
Originally Posted by gofast182
I'll second what SLO_Town said. Make sure you properly define your terms and intent. Assuming your finish needs to be polished at all, you should only have to do so one time and then with a proper wash regimen and treatment with a product like Jescar Power Lock (I also use this on our MDX and it does a great job, the car gets dirty at a much slower rate) you theoretically should never need to polish again (or at least not for a very long time).
I agree. If it doesn't need a compound, polish, or even a cleaner wax I don't use it. There is a very thin clear coat on a vehicle, the less I remove or mess with it the better imo. A few people a lot more knowledgeable than I am about automotive paint seem to agree. I like to do as mild a prep prior to waxing as possible.
I use Power Lock and find it to be very good.
I'll second what SLO_Town said. Make sure you properly define your terms and intent. Assuming your finish needs to be polished at all, you should only have to do so one time and then with a proper wash regimen and treatment with a product like Jescar Power Lock (I also use this on our MDX and it does a great job, the car gets dirty at a much slower rate) you theoretically should never need to polish again (or at least not for a very long time).
I agree. If it doesn't need a compound, polish, or even a cleaner wax I don't use it. There is a very thin clear coat on a vehicle, the less I remove or mess with it the better imo. A few people a lot more knowledgeable than I am about automotive paint seem to agree. I like to do as mild a prep prior to waxing as possible.
I use Power Lock and find it to be very good.
Thanks for the reply.I should be more specific.2018 Subaru Forester with white pearl.Paint is in new condition.April will be 1 year.I'm thinking of washing/paint cleaner/Maguires ultimate polish and then maguires paint sealant.I know even if the product is'clear coat safe'there is still abrasion on the paint.Thanks Joe
Originally Posted by Joeescape63
Thanks for the reply.I should be more specific.2018 Subaru Forester with white pearl.Paint is in new condition.April will be 1 year.I'm thinking of washing/paint cleaner/Maguires ultimate polish and then maguires paint sealant.I know even if the product is'clear coat safe'there is still abrasion on the paint.Thanks Joe
You need to wash and clay the car, then evaluate the paint.
Thanks for the reply.I should be more specific.2018 Subaru Forester with white pearl.Paint is in new condition.April will be 1 year.I'm thinking of washing/paint cleaner/Maguires ultimate polish and then maguires paint sealant.I know even if the product is'clear coat safe'there is still abrasion on the paint.Thanks Joe
You need to wash and clay the car, then evaluate the paint.
Originally Posted by rooflessVW
Originally Posted by Joeescape63
Thanks for the reply.I should be more specific.2018 Subaru Forester with white pearl.Paint is in new condition.April will be 1 year.I'm thinking of washing/paint cleaner/Maguires ultimate polish and then maguires paint sealant.I know even if the product is'clear coat safe'there is still abrasion on the paint.Thanks Joe
You need to wash and clay the car, then evaluate the paint.
I agree. First of all it's pearl white which is friendly to your cause and second if you've taken reasonable care of the finish you should only need to wash, clay, and apply sealant (no cleaner wax, no polish). If you've built up some noticeable swirling in a year (which seems unlikely) then you'd want to consider a more aggressive approach; even then I'd try what I just suggested first to see if it brings the finish to a satisfactory condition before using abrasives. Also, you could certainly do worse than Meguiar's but there are some better products out there like the Power Lock we've mentioned.
Originally Posted by Joeescape63
Thanks for the reply.I should be more specific.2018 Subaru Forester with white pearl.Paint is in new condition.April will be 1 year.I'm thinking of washing/paint cleaner/Maguires ultimate polish and then maguires paint sealant.I know even if the product is'clear coat safe'there is still abrasion on the paint.Thanks Joe
You need to wash and clay the car, then evaluate the paint.
I agree. First of all it's pearl white which is friendly to your cause and second if you've taken reasonable care of the finish you should only need to wash, clay, and apply sealant (no cleaner wax, no polish). If you've built up some noticeable swirling in a year (which seems unlikely) then you'd want to consider a more aggressive approach; even then I'd try what I just suggested first to see if it brings the finish to a satisfactory condition before using abrasives. Also, you could certainly do worse than Meguiar's but there are some better products out there like the Power Lock we've mentioned.
Be sure to take a close look under fluorescent lights. They reveal all. When I buy a new vehicle, there are typically tell-tale signs of having been washed with a brush (gasp) or a dirty wash mitt (ugh) and dried with terry towels (kill me now). You'll want to correct all that damage before applying a sealer.
I love my Porter Cable random-orbital. I use it with Lake Country pads (orange for correction, red for wax / sealant application). I've had great luck with Meguiars Ultimate Polish (or Ultimate Compound for more serious issues) to get the swirls out, but there are plenty of products out there to choose from. Once you're removed all the flaws, seal it up.
Final recommendation: Use a spray sealer as a drying aid, which reinforces the sealer you applied, resists abrasion, and keeps crud from sticking between washes. I use, and REALLY like Renny Doyle Double Black Bead Maker during every wash, but there is a lot to choose from. Experiment to find the one you like. I find the "Spray Wax" from various supermarket brands tend to streak, making them harder to use as a drying aid. Using these products as a drying aid has reduced the need for frequent 'waxing'.
Also, if it isn't microfiber, it shouldn't be touching your paint. From the wash mitt, to the drying towels, to the sealer removal towels....ALL microfiber.
I love my Porter Cable random-orbital. I use it with Lake Country pads (orange for correction, red for wax / sealant application). I've had great luck with Meguiars Ultimate Polish (or Ultimate Compound for more serious issues) to get the swirls out, but there are plenty of products out there to choose from. Once you're removed all the flaws, seal it up.
Final recommendation: Use a spray sealer as a drying aid, which reinforces the sealer you applied, resists abrasion, and keeps crud from sticking between washes. I use, and REALLY like Renny Doyle Double Black Bead Maker during every wash, but there is a lot to choose from. Experiment to find the one you like. I find the "Spray Wax" from various supermarket brands tend to streak, making them harder to use as a drying aid. Using these products as a drying aid has reduced the need for frequent 'waxing'.
Also, if it isn't microfiber, it shouldn't be touching your paint. From the wash mitt, to the drying towels, to the sealer removal towels....ALL microfiber.
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I just use KLASSE AIO every 6 months rather than polish
* The Doyle Double Black Bead Maker looks good ... What brand liquid or paste paint sealant do you like best ?
Originally Posted by WylieCoyote
Be sure to take a close look under fluorescent lights. They reveal all. When I buy a new vehicle, there are typically tell-tale signs of having been washed with a brush (gasp) or a dirty wash mitt (ugh) and dried with terry towels (kill me now). You'll want to correct all that damage before applying a sealer.
I love my Porter Cable random-orbital. I use it with Lake Country pads (orange for correction, red for wax / sealant application). I've had great luck with Meguiars Ultimate Polish (or Ultimate Compound for more serious issues) to get the swirls out, but there are plenty of products out there to choose from. Once you're removed all the flaws, seal it up.
Final recommendation: Use a spray sealer as a drying aid, which reinforces the sealer you applied, resists abrasion, and keeps crud from sticking between washes. I use, and REALLY like Renny Doyle Double Black Bead Maker during every wash, but there is a lot to choose from. Experiment to find the one you like. I find the "Spray Wax" from various supermarket brands tend to streak, making them harder to use as a drying aid. Using these products as a drying aid has reduced the need for frequent 'waxing'.
Also, if it isn't microfiber, it shouldn't be touching your paint. From the wash mitt, to the drying towels, to the sealer removal towels....ALL microfiber.
Originally Posted by WylieCoyote
Be sure to take a close look under fluorescent lights. They reveal all. When I buy a new vehicle, there are typically tell-tale signs of having been washed with a brush (gasp) or a dirty wash mitt (ugh) and dried with terry towels (kill me now). You'll want to correct all that damage before applying a sealer.
I love my Porter Cable random-orbital. I use it with Lake Country pads (orange for correction, red for wax / sealant application). I've had great luck with Meguiars Ultimate Polish (or Ultimate Compound for more serious issues) to get the swirls out, but there are plenty of products out there to choose from. Once you're removed all the flaws, seal it up.
Final recommendation: Use a spray sealer as a drying aid, which reinforces the sealer you applied, resists abrasion, and keeps crud from sticking between washes. I use, and REALLY like Renny Doyle Double Black Bead Maker during every wash, but there is a lot to choose from. Experiment to find the one you like. I find the "Spray Wax" from various supermarket brands tend to streak, making them harder to use as a drying aid. Using these products as a drying aid has reduced the need for frequent 'waxing'.
Also, if it isn't microfiber, it shouldn't be touching your paint. From the wash mitt, to the drying towels, to the sealer removal towels....ALL microfiber.
Right now, I'm using the Meguiars Ultimate lineup for correction and sealing. I've seen others that bead longer on their own (Duragloss 111 comes to mind), but it's become a non-issue since I started using Bead Maker at every wash.
Originally Posted by BMWTurboDzl
I just use KLASSE AIO every 6 months rather than polish
I used Klasse AIO before my last trip, and it looked awesome.
When I came back, I could see polisher marks where I applied it with my DA - looked like I hadn't removed it all. I had to use Meguiar's Ultimate Polish to remove the swirls or residue, whatever it was.
I just use KLASSE AIO every 6 months rather than polish
I used Klasse AIO before my last trip, and it looked awesome.
When I came back, I could see polisher marks where I applied it with my DA - looked like I hadn't removed it all. I had to use Meguiar's Ultimate Polish to remove the swirls or residue, whatever it was.
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