How many siphon out as much as possible through the dipstick tube first before dropping the pan?
When changing ATF
- Thread starter dawgn86
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I would do that if the siphoning worked effectively. Last time I tried it the tygon tube wouldn't go past the bottom of the dip stick tube/top of the pan. So no benefit.
Just did a pan drop 2 weeks ago. And it was a pita slowly loosening the pan while trying to slowly dump 6 qts of fluid w/o it spilling everywhere. Car was up on front ramps so clearance was marginal. But it worked out ok using a 3 ft spill container. Pretty much caught it all. But it was pretty tedious and time consuming.
Just did a pan drop 2 weeks ago. And it was a pita slowly loosening the pan while trying to slowly dump 6 qts of fluid w/o it spilling everywhere. Car was up on front ramps so clearance was marginal. But it worked out ok using a 3 ft spill container. Pretty much caught it all. But it was pretty tedious and time consuming.
Originally Posted by 69GTX
Just did a pan drop 2 weeks ago. And it was a pita slowly loosening the pan while trying to slowly dump 6 qts of fluid w/o it spilling everywhere. Car was up on front ramps so clearance was marginal. But it worked out ok using a 3 ft spill container. Pretty much caught it all. But it was pretty tedious and time consuming.
always leave the 'corner' bolt in that is "highest"
Loosen the bolt in the "lowest corner"... then slowly go up each side to the highest corner bolt. - like going back-n-forth up each side of a diamond v^
Most all the fluid will drain out the lowest corner.
Just did a pan drop 2 weeks ago. And it was a pita slowly loosening the pan while trying to slowly dump 6 qts of fluid w/o it spilling everywhere. Car was up on front ramps so clearance was marginal. But it worked out ok using a 3 ft spill container. Pretty much caught it all. But it was pretty tedious and time consuming.
always leave the 'corner' bolt in that is "highest"
Loosen the bolt in the "lowest corner"... then slowly go up each side to the highest corner bolt. - like going back-n-forth up each side of a diamond v^
Most all the fluid will drain out the lowest corner.
I've pulled out 6 quarts from a Ford Taurus and 3-1/2 quarts from a Chev 6 liter. It's worth a try. A 3/8 " OD plastic tube and some type of vacuum extractor works best.
That is how I do it, reduces the spill and mess factor for me, able to do it on my Taurus, could not on the Ranger. I don't know why on the Ranger but the tube would not pass through into the pan.
Scott
Scott
Originally Posted by Warstud
Smartest way to do it if you ask me
I agree. I get about 3 1/2 quarts of ATF from the Focus when I do this.
Smartest way to do it if you ask me
I agree. I get about 3 1/2 quarts of ATF from the Focus when I do this.
All of the vehicles that I've had since the 1980s had their own pan drain bolt. Just drain then if needed, drop the pan and change the screen/filter(whichever they had).
Originally Posted by dawgn86
How many siphon out as much as possible through the dipstick tube first before dropping the pan?
I do, and it makes the job a whole lot neater and easier imo.
How many siphon out as much as possible through the dipstick tube first before dropping the pan?
I do, and it makes the job a whole lot neater and easier imo.
It's a great method when it works. I've gotten as much as 5.5 quarts out of 2005 Buick Park Ave. which is what you get for a pan drop and as little as 2 quarts out of a 2007 Suburban.
GM FWDs tend to have a "home plate" shaped pan that would be a funnel if you take the bolts out correctly.
But on ramps, the funnel part is on the far side/ aft side of the car.
I put down a lot of newspaper and just wing it every time, repositioning the drain pan when it starts really pouring.
Dipstick tubes are too tiny in diameter and my aquarium tubing gets caught on the little flange or lip where the thing meets the pan.
HOWEVER, I did change the motor oil in my dodge 318 plow truck through the dipstick tube as the drain plug is buggered beyond belief. It literally took 4 days to siphon it all (mostly) out.
But on ramps, the funnel part is on the far side/ aft side of the car.
I put down a lot of newspaper and just wing it every time, repositioning the drain pan when it starts really pouring.
Dipstick tubes are too tiny in diameter and my aquarium tubing gets caught on the little flange or lip where the thing meets the pan.
HOWEVER, I did change the motor oil in my dodge 318 plow truck through the dipstick tube as the drain plug is buggered beyond belief. It literally took 4 days to siphon it all (mostly) out.
On all my automatic cars, I typically pull the pan and weld on a drain plug. Then change the ATF at preset intervals. Such as every 3rd or 4th oil change. (15,000-20,000 miles) . Knowing full well that only a portion of the ATF gets changed when I do this. Even so, I've had great results doing this.
Originally Posted by Cujet
On all my automatic cars, I typically pull the pan and weld on a drain plug. Then change the ATF at preset intervals. Such as every 3rd or 4th oil change. (15,000-20,000 miles) . Knowing full well that only a portion of the ATF gets changed when I do this. Even so, I've had great results doing this.
I agree. This is the way to go.
I found a Transmission Pan on E-Bay (Junkyard in Colorado / $20.00)
I had my Nephew weld a Hex-Nut to it and drilled thru / added a Magnetic Drain Plug.
I do a Drain & Fill every year.
On all my automatic cars, I typically pull the pan and weld on a drain plug. Then change the ATF at preset intervals. Such as every 3rd or 4th oil change. (15,000-20,000 miles) . Knowing full well that only a portion of the ATF gets changed when I do this. Even so, I've had great results doing this.
I agree. This is the way to go.
I found a Transmission Pan on E-Bay (Junkyard in Colorado / $20.00)
I had my Nephew weld a Hex-Nut to it and drilled thru / added a Magnetic Drain Plug.
I do a Drain & Fill every year.
Originally Posted by Linctex
I do not pan drop.
I disconnect a cooler line and idle in neutral until I get bubbles, about 5-6 quarts.
Hook up the cooler line, and refill. Every 40,000 - 50,000 miles.
Almost 200,000 miles on the original trans.
I've opened up 2 pans in the past 2 yrs and at least one of them had an original filter....and both pans were gunked up good and had dirty filters. And those filters do much more than catch rocks. They catch the fine "silt" that tends to stick to the bottom of the pan. Based on the amount of "goo" and fine wear products in the pan and on the magnet, it makes sense to get the original filter out of there on the first servicing. My cars have had Ford Filtran filters which look to load up pretty good.....which must affect the suction flow at some point. The only draw back to never dropping the pan is leaving behind all the early wear-in products from your transmission.....of which many will be with you for the life of the car. Maybe this is not an issue for cars made in the past 5-10 yrs? OEM states on my car fluid and filter change every 30K miles. And since the AX4N is known to be weak, 15-20K miles makes more sense for a short tripper if you want a long life.
For the next several years I only have to flush through the cooler line. But I'm not lucky enough to get 5-6 qts at one time before bubbles show up and flow sputters to a halt. That occurs after about a gallon or so. Last time I did this it took about 6-8 start/stop ignition cycles to get all the dirty fluid out.
I do not pan drop.
I disconnect a cooler line and idle in neutral until I get bubbles, about 5-6 quarts.
Hook up the cooler line, and refill. Every 40,000 - 50,000 miles.
Almost 200,000 miles on the original trans.
I've opened up 2 pans in the past 2 yrs and at least one of them had an original filter....and both pans were gunked up good and had dirty filters. And those filters do much more than catch rocks. They catch the fine "silt" that tends to stick to the bottom of the pan. Based on the amount of "goo" and fine wear products in the pan and on the magnet, it makes sense to get the original filter out of there on the first servicing. My cars have had Ford Filtran filters which look to load up pretty good.....which must affect the suction flow at some point. The only draw back to never dropping the pan is leaving behind all the early wear-in products from your transmission.....of which many will be with you for the life of the car. Maybe this is not an issue for cars made in the past 5-10 yrs? OEM states on my car fluid and filter change every 30K miles. And since the AX4N is known to be weak, 15-20K miles makes more sense for a short tripper if you want a long life.
For the next several years I only have to flush through the cooler line. But I'm not lucky enough to get 5-6 qts at one time before bubbles show up and flow sputters to a halt. That occurs after about a gallon or so. Last time I did this it took about 6-8 start/stop ignition cycles to get all the dirty fluid out.
Last edited:
Originally Posted by 69GTX
Originally Posted by Linctex
I do not pan drop.
I disconnect a cooler line and idle in neutral until I get bubbles, about 5-6 quarts.
Hook up the cooler line, and refill. Every 40,000 - 50,000 miles.
Almost 200,000 miles on the original trans.
I've opened up 2 pans in the past 2 yrs and at least one of them had an original filter....and both pans were gunked up good and had dirty filters. And those filters do much more than catch rocks. They catch the fine "silt" that tends to stick to the bottom of the pan. Based on the amount of "goo" and fine wear products in the pan and on the magnet, it makes sense to get the original filter out of there on the first servicing. My cars have had Ford Filtran filters which look to load up pretty good.....which must affect the suction flow at some point. The only draw back to never dropping the pan is leaving behind all the early wear-in products from your transmission.....of which many will be with you for the life of the car. Maybe this is not an issue for cars made in the past 5-10 yrs? OEM states on my car fluid and filter change every 30K miles. And since the AX4N is known to be weak, 15-20K miles makes more sense for a short tripper if you want a long life.
For the next several years I only have to flush through the cooler line. But I'm not lucky enough to get 5-6 qts at one time before bubbles show up and flow sputters to a halt. That occurs after about a gallon or so. Last time I did this it took about 6-8 start/stop ignition cycles to get all the dirty fluid out.
Both good posts(Linctex, 69GTX)
Originally Posted by Linctex
I do not pan drop.
I disconnect a cooler line and idle in neutral until I get bubbles, about 5-6 quarts.
Hook up the cooler line, and refill. Every 40,000 - 50,000 miles.
Almost 200,000 miles on the original trans.
I've opened up 2 pans in the past 2 yrs and at least one of them had an original filter....and both pans were gunked up good and had dirty filters. And those filters do much more than catch rocks. They catch the fine "silt" that tends to stick to the bottom of the pan. Based on the amount of "goo" and fine wear products in the pan and on the magnet, it makes sense to get the original filter out of there on the first servicing. My cars have had Ford Filtran filters which look to load up pretty good.....which must affect the suction flow at some point. The only draw back to never dropping the pan is leaving behind all the early wear-in products from your transmission.....of which many will be with you for the life of the car. Maybe this is not an issue for cars made in the past 5-10 yrs? OEM states on my car fluid and filter change every 30K miles. And since the AX4N is known to be weak, 15-20K miles makes more sense for a short tripper if you want a long life.
For the next several years I only have to flush through the cooler line. But I'm not lucky enough to get 5-6 qts at one time before bubbles show up and flow sputters to a halt. That occurs after about a gallon or so. Last time I did this it took about 6-8 start/stop ignition cycles to get all the dirty fluid out.
Both good posts(Linctex, 69GTX)
Originally Posted by benjy
changing the filter IF POSSIBLE is very important as is new clean fluid with replenished additives, start early say every 30 thou, its cheap insurance compared to a tranny repair or replace $$$$$
Agreed. I was lucky to get a pair of OEM Ford filters for my car for $10 each. So I'm all set for the next filter change years down the road. It's not the cost though....it's the labor rigging that pan on and off...major PITA when you're on your back. And many trans filters have metal walled seals that get left behind in the transmission when pulled off. Those have to be chiseled/pryed out once the filter is out. I've been through 3 transmission failures on used cars I bought. And my lack of fluid maintenance on them didn't help any. Last failure was 17 yrs ago...and I hope it stays that way.
changing the filter IF POSSIBLE is very important as is new clean fluid with replenished additives, start early say every 30 thou, its cheap insurance compared to a tranny repair or replace $$$$$
Agreed. I was lucky to get a pair of OEM Ford filters for my car for $10 each. So I'm all set for the next filter change years down the road. It's not the cost though....it's the labor rigging that pan on and off...major PITA when you're on your back. And many trans filters have metal walled seals that get left behind in the transmission when pulled off. Those have to be chiseled/pryed out once the filter is out. I've been through 3 transmission failures on used cars I bought. And my lack of fluid maintenance on them didn't help any. Last failure was 17 yrs ago...and I hope it stays that way.
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