Wheel bearing hub assembly's - don't last

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All of these front wheel drive vehicles now seem to use a wheel bearing hub assembly. It seems to me they just do not last like the old style bearings that would go forever if greased when you changed the brake pads.

I have read that the manufacturers went with the hub assembly units because they are faster to install and less chance for someone on the assembly line to screw the bearings up by not adjusting them properly.

I just changed another front hub assembly out today on a Chevy Venture minivan and wondered how critical is the final torque of the big axle nut. I torqued it down to around 150lbs. but read the factory manual after the job was done and it called for 118lbs. (sort of like ready, fire, and aim)

I may go back and loosen it a bit trying to get closer to the 118lbs. This makes me wonder if one reason these bearing hub units don't last is because people are over tightening them (which reduces the lube film) and may contribute to early bearing failure.

I have searched Google about this subject but there really isn't much information out there. Does over tightening that big axle nut increase the load on the bearing and could be the cause of early bearing noise/failure ?
 
I believe overtightening of the bearing hub nut causes distortion and the wheel bearing to fail sooner. Some are getting cranked down to over 200 lbs and sometimes with an impact. 150 lb ft sounds reasonable but I would loosen it and torque to spec.
 
Then are you saying that all the bearings come torqued wrong from the factory? Gm vehicles are notorious for hub assy's going bad, but I don't think it is specific to one manufacturer. I've replaced three front wheel bearings on my Camry, which actually uses a pressed hub and bearing. I think it just has to do with quality of the part.
 
I have over 300K KM's (180K Miles) on mine and they are original from the factory.
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I know my dad's for Windstar which has 290K KM's has had them changed twice.

A friend of mine has 310K KM's on his Honda CRV and they are original.

I guess it just depends.
 
FWIW, it also has to do on the OES and how they were installed. I had someone install Timken-boxed Koyo bearings and he zipped it on with a Snap-On cordless impact wrench. If I can get 3+ years out of these, I'll be lucky but I done the same on the beater van and they've held up fine for 6 years.
 
Setting bearings right is a key thing. On my MBs they recommend using a dial gauge, however some setups may be different.
 
Torque is important.
But 150 instead of 118 should cause no problems in reality.
I would leave it alone if you are sure it has only 150 of measured torque.
250+ pounds can certainly cause problems, but not a hair over like 150.

Some cars, like Pontiac Grand Ams, eat wheel bearings.
But I find modern sealed ball bearing wheel bearings to be an improvement over the tapered roller type, for sure.
 
Originally Posted By: Colt45ws
I dont think it really tensions it or anything. I believe that big axle nut is just to hold the CV shaft in.


Correct.
 
btw not all cars have that large center nut. On my volvo there are 4 bolts from behind on the upright. There is a bolt that holds the half shaft in place though.
 
Originally Posted By: Papa Bear
Are the bearings in these hubs ball bearings?

In the 1950's I believe Chev used ball bearings in the front wheels and soon went back to tapered rollers due to bearing failures.
Perhaps someone can verify this....


Ball bearings, in most yes.
 
Old VWs used ball bearings on the front wheels that had to be adjusted like tapered roller bearings.
Not common.
But modern self contained ball bearing units are pre set up and clearanced - they are generally very good.
 
Cressida, I've posted many times on this subject. Search my name for what I have to say about aftermarket wheel bearings. They don't last as long as OEM wheel bearings, but they are considerably cheaper. How much did you pay for the hub unit?

Hub nut torque does have some effect on hub wheel bearing life. You don't want to be too far off from the specified torque.
 
Are people buying cheapie Chinese bearings? I typically have a choice of a Timken or an off-brand Chinese part that costs half as much. I install the Timken and they usually last the duration of my ownership of the vehicle.
 
The car I have now (Infiniti G35) is prone to wheel bearing failures. This is the first car I have had like this. It is common for people to have them replaced under warranty (
The front has 2 sets of regular Timken bearings pressed into a bracket with a pressed in hub that comes from the dealer as a single piece. The rear is the same but you have to press in the hub yourself. They don't seem to be up to the forces these cars see.
 
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