My fault. It's awd. .
Wheel bearing dilemma
- Thread starter wing0
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The last post from Quest is pretty much spot on. I don't necessarily agree that an indy deserves the part markup, however I'm looking at it through my perspective where I fully understand that for any parts that I supply, I'm on the hook for, if they fail prematurely. The vast majority of people do not look at it this way.
It's the walmart syndrome where people are so used to returning cheap chinese junk with no hassle. What they don't understand that the junk they buy oftentimes has a markup of %1000 or more. So they think the same applies to all other businesses.
It's the walmart syndrome where people are so used to returning cheap chinese junk with no hassle. What they don't understand that the junk they buy oftentimes has a markup of %1000 or more. So they think the same applies to all other businesses.
If I provide the part, I tend to buy the highest rated part and most likely OEM unless it is prohibitively expensive. I don't bargain at the shop nor do I ever even ask for an estimate. If he finds something during the repair I give him blanket authorization. I also never grumble about the bill at this shop. Actually I take it back, I do complain when he charges me peanuts 
But Quest is spot on. If you have found honest, and competent mechanic and who charges reasonable rate, you need to make sure you do all of your repair business with them. DO NOT START PRICE SHOPPING ON A JOB.
But Quest is spot on. If you have found honest, and competent mechanic and who charges reasonable rate, you need to make sure you do all of your repair business with them. DO NOT START PRICE SHOPPING ON A JOB.
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
I don't necessarily agree that an indy deserves the part markup
If he didn't make money on parts, his labor rate would be higher.
For Honda/Toyota dealer parts, garages will get something like 25% off full-retail; maybe more, maybe less, depending on the specific circumstance. They add this back when reselling the installed parts to you, so your price from them for the part will be close to what it would be if you bought it yourself at the dealer.
There is a similar arrangement between aftermarket parts suppliers and garages. However, with aftermarket there is a broad range of price and quality. If the garage is quoting you an NSK bearing, you need to compare that against you buying the NSK bearing at full-retail at NAPA, etc. You cannot compare the garage's quote on an NSK bearing against full-retail on a BCA bearing. Folks tend not to understand that.
Garages also have trade houses that they deal with (such as Worldpac) which tend to sell a higher-grade of parts than what is available to consumer retail, even under the same brand-names. so prices are not comparable.
I don't necessarily agree that an indy deserves the part markup
If he didn't make money on parts, his labor rate would be higher.
For Honda/Toyota dealer parts, garages will get something like 25% off full-retail; maybe more, maybe less, depending on the specific circumstance. They add this back when reselling the installed parts to you, so your price from them for the part will be close to what it would be if you bought it yourself at the dealer.
There is a similar arrangement between aftermarket parts suppliers and garages. However, with aftermarket there is a broad range of price and quality. If the garage is quoting you an NSK bearing, you need to compare that against you buying the NSK bearing at full-retail at NAPA, etc. You cannot compare the garage's quote on an NSK bearing against full-retail on a BCA bearing. Folks tend not to understand that.
Garages also have trade houses that they deal with (such as Worldpac) which tend to sell a higher-grade of parts than what is available to consumer retail, even under the same brand-names. so prices are not comparable.
Some shops will charge 1.5 times labor if you bring them the part to offset the loss of profit on the part.
If you can find a shop that lets you bring in your own parts, try to keep him happy as best you can. Usually by buying at least some of your parts from him.
As for the bearings ... Brand doesn't matter as much as country of origin. If it doesn't say "made in USA" on the bearing, then leave it on the shelf.
Just based off my experiences both selling and installing over the last decade or so.
If you can find a shop that lets you bring in your own parts, try to keep him happy as best you can. Usually by buying at least some of your parts from him.
As for the bearings ... Brand doesn't matter as much as country of origin. If it doesn't say "made in USA" on the bearing, then leave it on the shelf.
Just based off my experiences both selling and installing over the last decade or so.
@OP:
Given this is a RX300 AWD, meaning that it's a press bearing job.
Since your location is @ the east coast, where salt spray/salt-laden air is common, I'm fairly sure that your bearing/hub is pretty much rusted and the hub and/or cv shaft spline may have seized up on hub, or hub to bearing race.
In other words: be prepared that this may turn into a costly job as the story unfolds (as your mech gradually taking apart all the necessary components before he can press the bearings, etc.)
So, there's no definitive answer to the time it takes to do the job "right" at this point, for we all don't know how bad the rust has gotten into the assembly.
Do be prepared for the worse case scenario: that is: in addition to new bearing set, you may need new hub, or even new ABS reluctor ring set.
Just to give you an idea (worse case scenario) the kind of challenges your mech may have to deal with cars/bearing from salt belt:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uvUzMwisLXU
Enjoy!
Q.
remember this: good/honest mech is not out there to screww you, but serves to help keep your car going in a safe, mechanically sound manner. He deserves his proper pay for the good/honest work he has done for you as a service.
Only crooks/dishonest mech deserves the whipping, IMHO, and should be banned from the industry (do we ever establish a national database for these kinds of dishonest mechs somewhere?)
Given this is a RX300 AWD, meaning that it's a press bearing job.
Since your location is @ the east coast, where salt spray/salt-laden air is common, I'm fairly sure that your bearing/hub is pretty much rusted and the hub and/or cv shaft spline may have seized up on hub, or hub to bearing race.
In other words: be prepared that this may turn into a costly job as the story unfolds (as your mech gradually taking apart all the necessary components before he can press the bearings, etc.)
So, there's no definitive answer to the time it takes to do the job "right" at this point, for we all don't know how bad the rust has gotten into the assembly.
Do be prepared for the worse case scenario: that is: in addition to new bearing set, you may need new hub, or even new ABS reluctor ring set.
Just to give you an idea (worse case scenario) the kind of challenges your mech may have to deal with cars/bearing from salt belt:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uvUzMwisLXU
Enjoy!
Q.
remember this: good/honest mech is not out there to screww you, but serves to help keep your car going in a safe, mechanically sound manner. He deserves his proper pay for the good/honest work he has done for you as a service.
Only crooks/dishonest mech deserves the whipping, IMHO, and should be banned from the industry (do we ever establish a national database for these kinds of dishonest mechs somewhere?)
Quest: Anytime a mechanic allows you to bring in your own part I would expect him to make that cash up somewhere. Whether its a higher labor cost or a surcharge, I would expect that. Anyone that thinks differently isn't going to have that mechanic work for him for long. On the other hand, if the bearings can be replaced and it is saving you some money over the pre-packaged versions, I am all for it.
Originally Posted By: Tegger
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
I don't necessarily agree that an indy deserves the part markup
If he didn't make money on parts, his labor rate would be higher.
For Honda/Toyota dealer parts, garages will get something like 25% off full-retail; maybe more, maybe less, depending on the specific circumstance. They add this back when reselling the installed parts to you, so your price from them for the part will be close to what it would be if you bought it yourself at the dealer.
There is a similar arrangement between aftermarket parts suppliers and garages. However, with aftermarket there is a broad range of price and quality. If the garage is quoting you an NSK bearing, you need to compare that against you buying the NSK bearing at full-retail at NAPA, etc. You cannot compare the garage's quote on an NSK bearing against full-retail on a BCA bearing. Folks tend not to understand that.
Garages also have trade houses that they deal with (such as Worldpac) which tend to sell a higher-grade of parts than what is available to consumer retail, even under the same brand-names. so prices are not comparable.
Carquest can get NSK for 53.
Shop said they can get NSK for around 100.
I wasn't comparing BCA price with shops NSK. I just wanted to know if BCA is trustworthy.
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
I don't necessarily agree that an indy deserves the part markup
If he didn't make money on parts, his labor rate would be higher.
For Honda/Toyota dealer parts, garages will get something like 25% off full-retail; maybe more, maybe less, depending on the specific circumstance. They add this back when reselling the installed parts to you, so your price from them for the part will be close to what it would be if you bought it yourself at the dealer.
There is a similar arrangement between aftermarket parts suppliers and garages. However, with aftermarket there is a broad range of price and quality. If the garage is quoting you an NSK bearing, you need to compare that against you buying the NSK bearing at full-retail at NAPA, etc. You cannot compare the garage's quote on an NSK bearing against full-retail on a BCA bearing. Folks tend not to understand that.
Garages also have trade houses that they deal with (such as Worldpac) which tend to sell a higher-grade of parts than what is available to consumer retail, even under the same brand-names. so prices are not comparable.
Carquest can get NSK for 53.
Shop said they can get NSK for around 100.
I wasn't comparing BCA price with shops NSK. I just wanted to know if BCA is trustworthy.
I've gone to this mechanic for more than 10 years.
I usually bring my own fluids and parts. This is to either let me choose the source of the part.
For example, oxygen sensor, Toyota wanted over 300 for one. I got the denso from rockauto for more than half off. Is that really so wrong?
I wasn't debating about the source of the part. It's the quality difference if any that I want to have a choice in.
Looks like I'll just go with NSK unless amazon restock the SKF.
I usually bring my own fluids and parts. This is to either let me choose the source of the part.
For example, oxygen sensor, Toyota wanted over 300 for one. I got the denso from rockauto for more than half off. Is that really so wrong?
I wasn't debating about the source of the part. It's the quality difference if any that I want to have a choice in.
Looks like I'll just go with NSK unless amazon restock the SKF.
Originally Posted By: Tegger
Originally Posted By: wing0
Carquest can get NSK for 53.
Shop said they can get NSK for around 100.
What are the model numbers of both parts?
Hmm, I didn't get that from either side I have them the car model and asked for the options.
Originally Posted By: wing0
Carquest can get NSK for 53.
Shop said they can get NSK for around 100.
What are the model numbers of both parts?
Hmm, I didn't get that from either side I have them the car model and asked for the options.
Originally Posted By: wing0
Originally Posted By: Tegger
Originally Posted By: wing0
Carquest can get NSK for 53.
Shop said they can get NSK for around 100.
What are the model numbers of both parts?
Hmm, I didn't get that from either side I have them the car model and asked for the options.
Then you have no idea if they are the same part.
The other possibility is that they are the same part, but the mechanic is discounting his labor and making it back on the part. If so, he may be doing this in order to keep his hourly-rate competitive.
If you're that concerned about $47, I suggest getting quotes from a couple of other garages, and ask all of them to break out parts and labor while specifying the make and model of the part.
Originally Posted By: Tegger
Originally Posted By: wing0
Carquest can get NSK for 53.
Shop said they can get NSK for around 100.
What are the model numbers of both parts?
Hmm, I didn't get that from either side I have them the car model and asked for the options.
Then you have no idea if they are the same part.
The other possibility is that they are the same part, but the mechanic is discounting his labor and making it back on the part. If so, he may be doing this in order to keep his hourly-rate competitive.
If you're that concerned about $47, I suggest getting quotes from a couple of other garages, and ask all of them to break out parts and labor while specifying the make and model of the part.
Quote:
Originally Posted By: Tegger
Originally Posted By: wing0
Originally Posted By: Tegger
[quote=carquest can get NSK for 53.
Shop said they can get NSK for around 100.
What are the model numbers of both parts?
Hmm, I didn't get that from either side I have them the car model and asked for the options.
Then you have no idea if they are the same part.
The other possibility is that they are the same part, but the mechanic is discounting his labor and making it back on the part. If so, he may be doing this in order to keep his hourly-rate competitive.
If you're that concerned about $47, I suggest getting quotes from a couple of other garages, and ask all of them to break out parts and labor while specifying the make and model of the part.
I was given the labour cost first like I usually do. They know I usually bring my own part, but I wanted to know that brands they can get. That's when I got the part price afterwards.
Thanks for all the feedback.
Originally Posted By: Tegger
Originally Posted By: wing0
Originally Posted By: Tegger
[quote=carquest can get NSK for 53.
Shop said they can get NSK for around 100.
What are the model numbers of both parts?
Hmm, I didn't get that from either side I have them the car model and asked for the options.
Then you have no idea if they are the same part.
The other possibility is that they are the same part, but the mechanic is discounting his labor and making it back on the part. If so, he may be doing this in order to keep his hourly-rate competitive.
If you're that concerned about $47, I suggest getting quotes from a couple of other garages, and ask all of them to break out parts and labor while specifying the make and model of the part.
I was given the labour cost first like I usually do. They know I usually bring my own part, but I wanted to know that brands they can get. That's when I got the part price afterwards.
Thanks for all the feedback.
Last edited:
By the way, if your mechanic has no issues providing you the part, ignore all the BITOG priests who are giving you the contrary advice including myself.
BITOG excels in answering unasked question without providing factual or useful information.
BITOG excels in answering unasked question without providing factual or useful information.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: wing0
I've gone to this mechanic for more than 10 years.
I usually bring my own fluids and parts. This is to either let me choose the source of the part.
For example, oxygen sensor, Toyota wanted over 300 for one. I got the denso from rockauto for more than half off. Is that really so wrong?
I wasn't debating about the source of the part. It's the quality difference if any that I want to have a choice in.
Looks like I'll just go with NSK unless amazon restock the SKF.
Most of our American members don't realize how much we may overpay for parts in Canada. If we don't do our homework then we could end up paying 5 times more than what you would pay for parts in the USA.
We have Rockauto which isn't bad most of the time and some stuff on Amazon.ca. We always have to pay taxes (13% in Ontario) and shipping which sometimes costs more than the part if we buy online. We are lucky to have stuff like Advanced auto, where you can use coupons and then pick up in the store within an hour. Some stuff on Ebay might have free shipping, but most times we don't get the bargains that our friends down south do.
I would go with what you can get for a good price to quality ratio.
I've gone to this mechanic for more than 10 years.
I usually bring my own fluids and parts. This is to either let me choose the source of the part.
For example, oxygen sensor, Toyota wanted over 300 for one. I got the denso from rockauto for more than half off. Is that really so wrong?
I wasn't debating about the source of the part. It's the quality difference if any that I want to have a choice in.
Looks like I'll just go with NSK unless amazon restock the SKF.
Most of our American members don't realize how much we may overpay for parts in Canada. If we don't do our homework then we could end up paying 5 times more than what you would pay for parts in the USA.
We have Rockauto which isn't bad most of the time and some stuff on Amazon.ca. We always have to pay taxes (13% in Ontario) and shipping which sometimes costs more than the part if we buy online. We are lucky to have stuff like Advanced auto, where you can use coupons and then pick up in the store within an hour. Some stuff on Ebay might have free shipping, but most times we don't get the bargains that our friends down south do.
I would go with what you can get for a good price to quality ratio.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Vikas
By the way, if your mechanic has no issues providing you the part, ignore all the BITOG priests who are giving you the contrary advice including myself.
BITOG excels in answering unasked question without providing factual or useful information.
and don't forget, some of the reason your mechanic marks up the cost of a part is to cover his time to order the part and return said part if there is an issue. Mechanics mark up parts to cover such costs so in effect, not all of the markup is lost when you show up with part in hand. It's not all gravy when he marks up a part, its covering real costs so don't feel bad. One way or another, he gets the hourly costs he needs.
By the way, if your mechanic has no issues providing you the part, ignore all the BITOG priests who are giving you the contrary advice including myself.
BITOG excels in answering unasked question without providing factual or useful information.
and don't forget, some of the reason your mechanic marks up the cost of a part is to cover his time to order the part and return said part if there is an issue. Mechanics mark up parts to cover such costs so in effect, not all of the markup is lost when you show up with part in hand. It's not all gravy when he marks up a part, its covering real costs so don't feel bad. One way or another, he gets the hourly costs he needs.
Originally Posted By: wing0
I've gone to this mechanic for more than 10 years.
I usually bring my own fluids and parts. This is to either let me choose the source of the part.
For example, oxygen sensor, Toyota wanted over 300 for one. I got the denso from rockauto for more than half off. Is that really so wrong?
I wasn't debating about the source of the part. It's the quality difference if any that I want to have a choice in.
Looks like I'll just go with NSK unless amazon restock the SKF.
Source your own NSK and good luck to you.
Q.
I've gone to this mechanic for more than 10 years.
I usually bring my own fluids and parts. This is to either let me choose the source of the part.
For example, oxygen sensor, Toyota wanted over 300 for one. I got the denso from rockauto for more than half off. Is that really so wrong?
I wasn't debating about the source of the part. It's the quality difference if any that I want to have a choice in.
Looks like I'll just go with NSK unless amazon restock the SKF.
Source your own NSK and good luck to you.
Q.
NSK and SKF are a good brands for sure, you also need two seals for that style bearing inner and outer. BCA is no longer the same company. Federal Mogul sells bearings they have which are all imports and are switching bearings to Moog branded items as they sell them out. The name BCA is being used for USA made bearings by NTN what irony too me as USA company bails on a brand and imports stuff and a Japanese company picks up the name and makes bearings here.
BCA stands for Bearing Company of America
BCA stands for Bearing Company of America
That NSK looks too good to be true. Just have your mechanic get the part - but do make the point clear you want OEM or "premium", many shops are using the economy line from their jobbers or parts houses. I know the local Firestone shops do use O'Reilly's MasterPro line for stuff like this.
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