What's your "sweet spot" if you are good at DIY?

Getting my now clean and soft hands dirty bothers me now. I wear gloves more and more. I use Dawn dish soap. I wear my old work uniforms when I do any car crawlin. Since we bought the Camrys that is just oil and filters. I spent some time prepping the snow blower for?
 
My starting point was money. When I started looking I had 10K saved up but by time I found what I wanted a year and a half later I had close to 14k set a side but found my 08 Lucerne for $7500 with 78k.

I also wanted something that wouldn't break the bank when it needed repairs since I don't DIY. So far it's been a great purchase.
 
Pretty much 10-12 years old but I try find something someone bought when they retired but didn’t drive much. Then their kids put it up for sale and just want it sold ASAP. I want less than 80,000 miles on it. For sure cars are much cheaper than SUV’s for the same age. I don’t get too worried if I have to change bolt-on components such as batteries, water pumps, alternators, power steering pumps, brake pads etc since they are within my capacity and patience level. No body rust tolerated.
 
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It is great to be in that position. For some people, needs come before likes.
Are they necessarily mutually exclusive?

For most people, wants come before needs, which explains things like being upside down, seven year car loans, failure to save or invest.

Finding a car I like, in budget, has been a consistent theme for me.

Needs before wants. Budget met. And yes, a car I like.
 
Are they necessarily mutually exclusive?

For most people, wants come before needs, which explains things like being upside down, seven year car loans, failure to save or invest.

Finding a car I like, in budget, has been a consistent theme for me.

Needs before wants. Budget met. And yes, a car I like.
Not by default, but they often are.

My Prius (or similar economy car) gets me to work and my errands in the most cost-effective manner. I can afford other cars that would be much nicer for the job, but it isn't a necessary purchase.
 
Wife gets a new vehicle every 10 years while myself runs older trucks such as the 95 in my sig. If there is a time consuming repair during cold weather we send it to a shop.
 
Are they necessarily mutually exclusive?

For most people, wants come before needs, which explains things like being upside down, seven year car loans, failure to save or invest.

Finding a car I like, in budget, has been a consistent theme for me.

Needs before wants. Budget met. And yes, a car I like.
I always buy vehicles I like - there is such a variety out there that I can skip stuff that doesn't appeal to me. But I'm not picky; I like a lot of different types of vehicles.
 
My sweet spot is 5-10 years old, one owner, no fleet or rental use and regular maintenance by the dealer with proof. It has to come from a place that has no winters and doesn’t salt the roads: Arizona is perfect. Granny driven if possible, maybe the lights were never even turned on! And it has to qualify for an aftermarket bumper to bumper warranty from the manufacturer.

I just bought a Ford 2014 with about 70k miles and was able to get a Ford backed premium care warranty on it for the next 5 years. That’s sweet to me. YMMV.
 
Start with something in the 5-7 years old/75-100K range, keep until 200K. Parts availability, at least quality stuff, tends to become a real issue once you pass the 15 yr mark.
Avoid any low-volume makes/models - those models tend to have parts availability issues before the volume sellers
Avoid any platforms where engine removal is required for moderate to major repairs (aka most transverse V6's except Honda)
Find a brand with a good dealer parts distribution supply chain (e.g. most Japanese import brands)
Find a brand where access to the dealer scan tool is readily available to the aftermarket (rules out Nissan, Hyundai/Kia, VAG, MB)
Well the first Mercedes I got had under 50k and was in the 6 year range, under 20k in price. Haven't really heard of any major repairs besides the balance shaft that requires engine removal but that doesn't really apply to the year I bought. Mercedes does have a decenter number of dealers and there are several that discount 25-30%. Basically all the scan tools out there also work on Mercedes. I think if you need something specialized, then the dealer system is about $600-$800 which I don't think is too bad. But unless you're doing mods to the car, I haven't seen where having the MB Xentry system itself is required over something like Autel or iCarsoft.
 
I’m finding it is changing. When I was younger I was more ambitious and would tackle projects. Older now, and I don’t know what changed: much more risk adverse, worried about bricking something in my driveway. Even with spare vehicles I’m starting to get to where I’m too worried to try. Some of the threads here showing the work required to do jobs and to do diagnosis… makes me want to hang it up altogether and not do DIY.

Simple vehicle that sold lots. Has to have good parts availability and most shops should be able to tackle the job. If they screw it up then there is a good chance some other shop can make it right.
 
Avoid any platforms where engine removal is required for moderate to major repairs (aka most transverse V6's except Honda)
What gives to make Honda easier/better? I haven’t been too impressed with our CRV for basic things (PCV replacement, intake pulling, checking trans oil). The V6 models seemed to be plagued with glass transmissions, timing belts, valve adjustments, and VCM.
 
When I was shopping for a car a year ago, my goal was:

125k-150k miles
$3000-$5000 miles
Goal was from a rust free area, but it didn't take long to give that up.

I do look at the cars for sale in my old hometown in Hanford, CA, as well as in SW KS or TX in areas I know people. Since I bought this car, the influx of people from CA to IA has made rust free cars much easier to locate locally.

I ended up buying my Camry locally from a dealer with 224,000 miles, as the CARFAX showed it was a one owner, all Highway miles car. The engine had the piston replacement done, so it was like a car with 100,000 miles on it. Having taken it home an noticing all the newer parts on it, I knew someone was getting a good car, so I made sure it was me.....
 
Depends. 3rd car for fun? Doesn’t really matter.

Something I need to get me to and from work? Less than 4 years old and less than 40,000 miles. I don’t care about cost per mile (to an extent), I just want something with 4x4 or RWD biased AWD and that’s comfortable are my only real requirements.
 
My sweet spot is a Honda Civic with 35,000 or less miles and 3 years old. I purchased my daily driver 2012 Civic for $11,000 with 34,000 miles and it still had factory warranty. It had light hail which I had my brother fix it who owns a body shop for $1000.00. I currently have almost 114,000 miles on the vehicle without any problems. I am looking for a newer Civic however good deals are impossible to find on a 3 year old car. I would be better off buying a brand new one. My Civic runs great and I will have to wait patiently to find a great deal again. I am retired and have 3 other vehicles to drive therefore there is no big hurry. The Civic is a great all around vehicle and has served me very well. I did put the mag wheels on it with Michelin tires several years ago.
 

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So everybody has his own idea of where the "sweet spot" for used car value is (or, maybe nowadays, if it even exists vs. buying new). It's affected by a lot of factors, including how old of a heap you're willing to drive, your ability to work on it yourself, how many miles you accumulate, how you value money vs. time etc. Usually, it's a 5-year-old car or something.

I was thinking about this. The first couple of cars I owned (beginning in the mid-90s) were late-80's cars that I bought with 70-80k miles and kept to 140-150k. Looking back, I could probably have kept both a lot longer. I've owned a lot of cars in the many years since then and I've trended more towards buying older cars with more miles.

I am coming to the conclusion that if I want to maximize value (reliable miles at a minimum total ownership cost), the sweet spot for me is:

10-20 years old
150k-175k miles
Popular model
No rust
Decent interior
Proven powertrain (engines and transmissions with reputations for reliability)
$3000-5000

I'm not sure brand really matters (you get what you pay for). I prefer to buy from individuals, not dealers, and normal people, not car flippers. I don't care for SUVs and prefer manual transmissions. I don't need maintenance receipts when I'm buying. I look for a lower-priced example, not the "best-in-breed", but avoid cars that give off a vibe of neglect or sketchy repairs. I've never owned a salvage title car, not really against the idea though.

For the vehicles that I've owned recently that fit these parameters, I've been able to rack up a lot of reliable miles just by keeping up with maintenance and repairs. Stuff breaks, but not at a frustratingly frequent rate and no getting stranded from breakdowns (yet!). I think cars bought with the criteria above can go 250-300k miles. I've also gone a little cheaper or compromised on some of the list above, and it hasn't gone so well.

Things in my favor:
Internet forums and Youtube to diagnose and show "how to"
Tools and garage space to do most work
I enjoy working on cars, usually
Enough vehicles to live with short "down time" when a car is being worked on
Live close to a couple of large self-service junkyards (I only started using these a few years ago and, wow, I should have done that sooner)
Non-severe driving conditions (mix of city and highway, lots of annual miles)


How about you? What's your sweet spot?
Mid 2000s gm truck with an LS engine. Reliable and easy to work on most stuff. Just enough tech to make it convenient and easier to diagnose but without useless stuff.
I changed an EVAP part in 10 minutes the other day (including finding the right size socket) and I'm slow.
 
New or under 35k miles. The lower the mileage the less chance a ''mechanic'' had their hands on it previously is my current old age philosophy.
Currently have a high-end GM scan tool for my GM fleet. Used to run older Sables with 3.0 DOHC motors. I liked those old Mercs back then as Merc's have lock washers, Fords don't LOL.
 
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