What’s your “sweet spot” for used car purchases?

[supton]

Engines with timing belts are something I try to avoid.

I'm iffy on it too--but I'd snap up another 5S-FE Camry in a heartbeat (assuming rustfree etc). I've done that job twice and I bet on a third I might be able to finally do it in one day. [To be fair the second time around I snapped the alternator tensioner bolt and had to wait until morning to replace it.] Unsure about doing the V6 version though, or any other version.

 

[Elkins45]

I'm iffy on it too--but I'd snap up another 5S-FE Camry in a heartbeat (assuming rustfree etc). I've done that job twice and I bet on a third I might be able to finally do it in one day. [To be fair the second time around I snapped the alternator tensioner bolt and had to wait until morning to replace it.] Unsure about doing the V6 version though, or any other version.

There’s a lot in Ohio that sells mostly the “challenged” cars that Carmax takes in on trade. They have a 2006 Acura TL with around 120k miles listed for $3400 because the leather seats are all but reduced to dust. It must have been owned by a family of people who wear sandpaper pants. I was considering picking it up and throwing some cloth seat covers on it but there’s no sticker indicating the belt has been done. I started watching a video on replacing the belt but when they started unbolting the power steering pump and removing motor mounts I decided it might not be a job for me.

 

[supton]

There’s a lot in Ohio that sells mostly the “challenged” cars that Carmax takes in on trade. They have a 2006 Acura TL with around 120k miles listed for $3400 because the leather seats are all but reduced to dust. It must have been owned by a family of people who wear sandpaper pants. I was considering picking it up and throwing some cloth seat covers on it but there’s no sticker indicating the belt has been done. I started watching a video on replacing the belt but when they started unbolting the power steering pump and removing motor mounts I decided it might not be a job for me.

Fair enough--it's a great time to be alive--if you aren't sure about a particular job being DIY, youtube it and find out. Don't blame you, if the # of things "wrong" or possibly wrong add up to a too large number, then it's just not a good deal, or not the right deal for you.

 

[Patman]

My last Civic (a 2006) was 5 years old with 80,000 miles on it when I got it and I had 10 virtually trouble free years with it. So when I got my current Civic I did the exact same thing! I bought my 2016 when it was 5 years old and had 80k on it. Three years later it now has 159k on it and I haven’t spent a penny in repairs.

 

[Ranger83]

We buy select generations, like 3rd gen Outback, 3rd gen 4Runner, T1N Sprinter.

The newest of those is a 2008 Outback LL Bean 3.0R (six cylinder) bought with 97,000 miles.

 

[97prizm]

I don't seem to have one. I like the late 90's Camry's, easy to work on... but that's a model, not a range. I'd have to say, in the past, I preferred to just buy new, drive ten years / 250k, then lather rinse repeat. But I have road salt to contend with, so a car with that many miles is getting to be end of life, what with any hidden corrosion.

Edit: as I go about shopping (again), I just realized: I've long shopped wanting ABS. Now I'm thinking, side impact airbags too. While I like the simplicity of having none, there's something to be said for them.

Accident survival and injury dropped off alot with side impact airbags. It's scary that it took this long to get into vehicles.

 

[bighead2586]

Depends on the intended use. $4K to $6K "beaters", $10K to $13K "nice" and $30K or whatever for a really good car like our GS350 F Sport.
I try to buy vehicles that have a reputation of "miles don't count". Honda Toyota and now Mazda. Oh yeah our trusty Tundra has 220K and needs nothing. But it sucks the gas.

GS 350 and Tundra - that's a reliable couple of cars well played sir.

 

[oil pan 4]

Lease turn in.

 

[Jerrysends]

Honestly, depends on the car I seek & it's use.

Cars for my college kids- 200k 20Year Old Toyotas.

European cars for me/my wife- 60k miles or less. Older is fine if maintained & garaged.

 

[D60]

Honestly, depends on the car I seek & it's use.

Cars for my college kids- 200k 20Year Old Toyotas.

European cars for me/my wife- 60k miles or less. Older is fine if maintained & garaged.

This. Depends on if I'm shopping our one nice road tripper, or a local parts runner for myself.

However typically 6 to 10 years allows you to get nice vehicles for WAY less than new, but I'm also focusing on crew cab trucks 3/4t+ that are relatively expensive when new.

 

[JeffKeryk]

GS 350 and Tundra - that's a reliable couple of cars well played sir.

Thank you. I get offers for the Tundra all the time; it's not for sale. The GS is, of course, RWD. I am old skool in many ways. It is a great car.
But they both suck the gas... You may have heard about the gas prices around here...

 

[bighead2586]

Thank you. I get offers for the Tundra all the time; it's not for sale. The GS is, of course, RWD. I am old skool in many ways. It is a great car.
But they both suck the gas... You may have heard about the gas prices around here...

Yes those are not efficient but oh well. Miss my GS but my accord is a solid ride.
I'm in Hawaii regular is about 4.19 at Costco 4.75 at local stations.

 

[ZZman]

I prefer under 100,000 miles

 

[brages]

My sweet spot: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/whats-your-sweet-spot-if-you-are-good-at-diy.350097/