Whats wrong with the Fram EG

[Baveux]

Not that I want to use one however i am reviewing the products that i used on my truck .

My mind is set on oil and filter and the Fram is not considered however.

After hours of reading about MH messing around with Puro Wix and Gods know what, First brand ? Doing the same. Filter pleat brittle, tear, bad thread on base plate, low efficiency on Xp filter , puro boss and wix using the same media not filtering much , ADV pinched between base plate quality no there on most of the product etc etc that makes me wonder whats wrong with one of the cheapest filter available

1- good for 10k miles
2-blend of filtering media
3- good for conv and synth Oil
4- silicone ADV
5- Cheap and can be found everywhere
6- efficiency at 95% at 20 microns

What else do we need after all if we dont go extended drain interval ?

 

[UG_Passat]

The internet's prejudice against cardboard endcaps.

But... for many of the youtube C&P videos, they show the to have less filter media (via number of pleats and then they cut and estimate area)

 

[Baveux]

The internet's prejudice against cardboard endcaps.

But... for many of the youtube C&P videos, they show the OCOD to have less filter media (via number of pleats and then they cut and estimate area)

Ok but if Fram says good for 10k ... i would think that the filter media is long enough and have more than enough pleats 😉 or on the other hand, in this era of conspiracy everywhere ...maybe they are lying .. 🤪🤪

 

[Chris142]

Ok but if Fram says good for 10k ... i would think that the filter media is long enough and have more than enough pleats 😉 or on the other hand, in this era of conspiracy everywhere ...maybe they are lying .. 🤪🤪

If the media plugs up in 10k the engine is doomed anyway.

 

[Baveux]

I agree ... by pass open or not lol

 

[SC Maintenance]

If your going 10K miles why not spend 4 bucks more and get the Ultra Synthetic?

 

[Baveux]

If your going 10K miles why not spend 4 bucks more and get the Ultra Synthetic?

Just to clarify .... i wont use the Fram since ive just ordered something different but let me return to you the question , why spending 4 dollars more if 4 dollars less meets point 1 to 6 of the opening post ? Trying to be rational here, or to resist the filters marketing team 😉

 

[JeffKeryk]

Just to clarify .... i wont use the Fram since ive just ordered something different but let me return to you the question , why spending 4 dollars more if 4 dollars less meets point 1 to 6 of the opening post ? Trying to be rational here, or to resist the filters marketing team 😉

The reason I use the XG is so I can leave it on for several 5K services. I use a MityVac for topside extraction and swap the filter every 2nd or 3rd service. Easy peasey.

 

[Baveux]

The reason I use the XG is so I can leave it on for several 5K services. I use a MityVac for topside extraction and swap the filter every 2nd or 3rd service. Easy peasey.

You are the exception ... how much left behind the mityvac if any ?

 

[JeffKeryk]

You are the exception ... how much left behind the mityvac if any ?

Depends on the vehicle. The MityVac won't work on some cars; I hear the Subies can't topside.
I use it on our GS350, lots of Hondas, Nissans and Toyotas. I did a test on the GS once and posted it here. Very little drained out by pulling the plug after the extraction.
I will say that 5K services keep pretty clean oil in the sump. I used to be a naysayer, but no more. I love my MityVac.
It it works for your car, the time saved and no mess beats the snot outta the traditional spill and fill oil change.

 

[Baveux]

Depends on the vehicle. The MityVac won't work on some cars; I hear the Subies can't topside.
I use it on our GS350, lots of Hondas, Nissans and Toyotas. I did a test on the GS once and posted it here. Very little drained out by pulling the plug after the extraction.
I will say that 5K services keep pretty clean oil in the sump. I used to be a naysayer, but no more. I love my MityVac.
It it works for your car, the time saved and no mess beats the snot outta the traditional spill and fill oil change.

Great thanks ;-)

 

[BISCUT]

I use the Fram Xtra Guard in my kids 12 RAV4 2.5 at 5k blend and 6k synthetic oil changes. So far 3 XG (it is a cartridge) OCI's have produced what looks to be a perfect filter. No reason for me not to use it at this point. Less than $5 on Amazon as part of subscribe and save.

I could be wrong but I believe the "new and improved" is now using metal endcaps?

 

[thunderous1335]

Depends on the vehicle. The MityVac won't work on some cars; I hear the Subies can't topside.
I use it on our GS350, lots of Hondas, Nissans and Toyotas. I did a test on the GS once and posted it here. Very little drained out by pulling the plug after the extraction.
I will say that 5K services keep pretty clean oil in the sump. I used to be a naysayer, but no more. I love my MityVac.
It it works for your car, the time saved and no mess beats the snot outta the traditional spill and fill oil change.

The Subarus are a pain to suck up with our pumps at work, but they'll get all the old oil out. The trick is to constantly adjust how deep you have the pipe down the dipstick tube.

 

[hrv]

Not that I want to use one however i am reviewing the products that i used on my truck .

My mind is set on oil and filter and the Fram is not considered however.

After hours of reading about MH messing around with Puro Wix and Gods know what, First brand ? Doing the same. Filter pleat brittle, tear, bad thread on base plate, low efficiency on Xp filter , puro boss and wix using the same media not filtering much , ADV pinched between base plate quality no there on most of the product etc etc that makes me wonder whats wrong with one of the cheapest filter available

1- good for 10k miles
2-blend of filtering media
3- good for conv and synth Oil
4- silicone ADV
5- Cheap and can be found everywhere
6- efficiency at 95% at 20 microns

What else do we need after all if we dont go extended drain interval ?

Whats wrong???? Nothing....

 

[SC Maintenance]

Just to clarify .... i wont use the Fram since ive just ordered something different but let me return to you the question , why spending 4 dollars more if 4 dollars less meets point 1 to 6 of the opening post ? Trying to be rational here, or to resist the filters marketing team 😉

Because the EG is rated for "Up to 10K miles". The US is "up to" 20K, has better build quality, better media and more of it, and a better micron rating, all for 4 bucks.

How long you keeping the car? If only 50K past new - why change the oil at all - just add. Its an equivalent question if your looking for the bare minimum.

You are the exception ... how much left behind the mityvac if any ?

The mityvac is an excellent idea because it leaves the oil behind the ADBV intact - no dry start. Thinking I should get one myself but I already have so many toys

 

[flash7210]

The smart ones are those who just slap on any ol oil filter and enjoy the drive.
Ignorance is bliss.

 

[bullwinkle]

If it’s an old style OG Ultra, it is certainly capable of 20K on a clean engine, I’ve done it. Biggest issue I’ve had is RUST of the (thin) filter can that prevents using it for more than an entire year-so I’m just going to use the PH/Extra Guard for 1 year, as long as it’s less than 7500 miles-I’ve had zero issues with them, other than an occasional nitrile ADBV (in place of the silicone one it’s supposed to have).

 

[Baveux]

Because the EG is rated for "Up to 10K miles". The US is "up to" 20K, has better build quality, better media and more of it, and a better micron rating, all for 4 bucks.

How long you keeping the car? If only 50K past new - why change the oil at all - just add. Its an equivalent question if your looking for the bare minimum.


The mityvac is an excellent idea because it leaves the oil behind the ADBV intact - no dry start. Thinking I should get one myself but I already have so many toys

Cranking your car with the pedal to the floor will fill the filter to prevent dry start up after an oil change I would think ... saving you money for another toy ...

Im not looking at the bare minimum ... Im just trying to find the rational justifying to pay 2 to 3 x the price for a supposedly more efficient filte r and most of the post I read here suggest 8k miles interval.

And the stupid basic OCOD seem to fit the prescription .... pushing my luck i would say better than a wix XP made to last forever ..... but with minimal filtration according to many post here .... an empty can would last a lot longer if we follow this logic

Better build quality ? Maybe but if the filter last 10k there is enough media in it , filtering at 95% efficiency it must not be too bad ...and if it did not grenade itself ... the build quality must be sufficient

Anyway its all théory we can argue all day , one buy what he wants and we are all happy

thanks for your input on this thread SC

 

[kschachn]

The mityvac is an excellent idea because it leaves the oil behind the ADBV intact - no dry start. Thinking I should get one myself but I already have so many toys

Unless the engine was disassembled and cleaned there is no dry start after an oil change. Yes it takes a second or two for the oil to fill the filter, but there is more than sufficient oil in the bearings and elsewhere to properly lubricate the engine during this brief period.

 

[ZeeOSix]

The Fram Extra Guard is fine for 10K miles in a well maintained engine if it has the silicone ADBV. If you got one with the switcheroo nitrile ADBV I'd cut the use down to 5K-7K miles. EGs used in those conditions always look good when C&Ps are done by members here.