What's up with Supertech? Burning oil

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You know how you buy a bunch of stuff you don't need at Walmart because it is so cheap. Well, this time I bought 3 qts. of Supertech when I bought my car and regretted it, but no longer. It's been about 1500 miles, and I had to put 2 qts. in.

I am almost sure I don't leak anywhere. The oil I got in there was some cheapo oil-change-oil, that was api approved however. I checked on the bottle where it was shelved. But it was wierd because the service station had this big oil canister, with an oil pump hooked up, that tech put in my oil with. He told me it was the same brand that was on the shelf.

You think its Supertech burning or what. Before I added Supertech in however, I drove approx. 1500 miles w/o having to add oil. So this service station oil seemed normal. Thanks
Nick
 
If I am understanding correctly...

1. Service Station used bulk oil of the same type as the bottled oil on the shelf (normal). This saves time and expense.

2. You drove 1500 mi and had to add 1 Qt of oil?

3. You drove another 1500 mi having to add 2 more Qt of oil?

If it was a "Energy Conserving" 5w30 Dino Oil they are designed to shear down rapidly. They have to be designed this way in order to beat the reference oil in testing. As the oil gets thinner consumption tends to increase.

It could be a difference in operating conditions. Highway speeds tend to burn more oil.

Also the Supertech could be thinner, and some cars just tend to burn more oil of certain brands than others.

3 Qt in 3000 mi is a bit high for most new cars but some cars are designed in such a way they require it (Mazda RX-8) and some cars tend to have oil control problems such as early 4.6L Ford, Nothstar V-8, Saturn 1.9L, etc.

How about more information on the car itself?

Gene
 
Actually, it's been more like 1000 miles since adding the 1st quart, and then another 800 or so miles, before adding the 2nd quart.

Although I have been driving it really hard lately ('88 k-car). thanks.

[ October 18, 2004, 09:14 PM: Message edited by: WetBehindEars ]
 
Oops! Somehow I got the impression it was a new car.

2.2L Mopars have been known to have Cam Wear Problems from lack of top-end flow if to thick a oil is used in cold weather (W rating). I would try to stay with a 0W or 5W.

The folowing is what I would try in order of price:

1. Castrol GTX 5w30 (Most WalMarts use this at there Oil Change Center)

2. Shell Rotella T - Synthetic 5W-40 ($12 Gal at WalMart)

3. German Castrol Syntec Synthetic 0W-30 (Autozone Only).

The Castrol GTX seems to thin less and reduce comsumption over other "Energy Conserving" Oils I have tried.

The Rotella 5w-40 is a Group III Synthetic and designed for reduced consumption. It is a dual rated Diesel/Gas Fleet Oil (HDEO).

The GC 0W-30 (It is almost a 40 weight) is very highly regarded around here but the most expensive option. However you could easily double your oil change interval over standard 5w30 Dino.

Gene
 
Thanks Gene. Actually a have the 2.5l. Good thing, I can't imagine less power. Do you know anything about that engine? Specifically, if it has a Mitsubishi engine, or if you can sub in, a Mitsubish engine?

The thing sounds like an old kawasak bike I used to have. Vrrreeerr....Vrrreeeerrr.....Vrreeerrrr

Smooth sounding however.

BTW, the manual calls for 5w30 and I have been using that. I like the Walmart brand - at 88 cents a pop, I'll just keep adding oil. I like checking my car out anyway, plus I have a leaky rack (off and on leak) that I monitor. So checking the oil and adding is no biggie. Who makes the Walmart brand? It looks like a Mobil bottle with another sticker on it. Never mind, I'll just find it on google.com - thanks.

Nick

[ October 18, 2004, 09:46 PM: Message edited by: WetBehindEars ]
 
2.5L is a balance shaft equiped enlarged version of the 2.2L. The Mitsu was a 2.6L.

If I am correct Warren the blender using Mobil base stock and a Lubrizol Additive Package.

Does the bottom of the bottle have a WPP logo?

Gene
 
Nope, no such logo. My car smokes sometimes its strange. I also noticed another of the wires wasn't put on the cap very well. In addition to my other one. I hope this is it.
 
The comment about shearing is interesting. I have been using Supertech in my old Voyager van. 160,000 miles. It does not seem to burn any oil in the first 2,000 miles or so but it does on the last 1,000 miles leading up to the oil change. It does it every time. And if I go over 3,000 miles say to 4,000 I'll have to add another quart. It (10W30)must be shearing down to a 20 wt. I'll have to do a UOA.
 
Its a chrysler built engine

quote:

Originally posted by WetBehindEars:
Thanks Gene. Actually a have the 2.5l. Good thing, I can't imagine less power. Do you know anything about that engine? Specifically, if it has a Mitsubishi engine, or if you can sub in, a Mitsubish engine?

The thing sounds like an old kawasak bike I used to have. Vrrreeerr....Vrrreeeerrr.....Vrreeerrrr

. Nick


 
my fathers 94 caravan with the 4 popper really needs a thicker oil, it is speced for 10w30, but uses alot of 10w30, so we went to a chevron supreme 10w40 and it doesn't leak a drop.

The van probably makes about 75 horsepower on a good day. Its a deathtrap merging onto a highway, especially with any passangers.

JH
 
you may not know this..but in some circles around the country..the new supertech is Mobil drive clean SL..not the new GF-4 Mobil Drive clean group 3..the group one stuff that people on this site complained about heavy consumption. so it's possible you got this batch. I would try a different oil and see if there is any difference in consumption.
 
My experience with ST is that my car uses more oil with SuperTech than Castrol but less than Pennzoil, the oil I've switched to. I'm using 3/4 quart of Pennzoil about every 4000 miles not enough to worry about but more burning than I got with the ST. Different cars treat oil differently.
 
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