What's so special about Amsoil?

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SS says HTO-06 on the product page (at least for 5w30)...

But if you don't drive much, it may not be cost effective per mile for you, but that's a simple excel spreadsheet away from finding out.
 
Originally Posted By: brandini
SS says HTO-06 on the product page (at least for 5w30)...

But if you don't drive much, it may not be cost effective per mile for you, but that's a simple excel spreadsheet away from finding out.


Thanks, I forgot the 5w30 SS is HTO-06 rated.

Amsoil's cost analysis. I just picked up Amsoil’s most recent G100 retail catalog, dated 3/15. I believe this is one of the first times they haven't published their comparison of conventional oil changes being changed every 3,000-miles and how the cost compares to Amsoil Signature Series being changed at 1-year/ 25,000 miles. To me, this comparison has always been an exception and not the rule. How many consumers can take advantage of a 25k oil change much less a 15k oil change? Also, how many consumers really change their oil every 3k? I personally don't know any.

I like to use a real world example of what products are available at what price to the average consumer.

Examples:

Average Joe consumer is a savvy consumer. He knows that buying a 5-quart jug of motor oil at the Big-Box-Store typically yields a better price-per-quart versus buying individual quarts from the auto parts stores.

Average Joe consumer is raising a family on a tight budget. He simply doesn’t have the reserve funds to purchase Amsoil Signature Series in the case of twelve quarts which yields a slightly better price-per-quart.

Average Joe consumer drives a Dodge minivan with 5-quart capacity. True story, last year Joe drove 5,297 miles. This was predominantly stop-in-go driving. Through Used Oil Analysis, it was discovered that 5,297 miles of stop-in-go driving over the course of one-year used up 9.23 of the starting 12.6 TBN of Amsoil Signature Series.

In this application, a typical brand name motor oil of 7-to-9 TBN, starting, will likely come up short of a one-year oil change. Two oil changes per year in this application, Spring/Fall, with brand name motor oil will likely be the sweet spot. Joe also reasons that one Fram Ultra oil filter will easily last him for one year and two oil changes.

Joe likes the concept of synthetic motor oil and is willing to pay a little extra for it.

Cost-Per-Mile cost analysis driving 5,297 miles in one-year:

Amsoil One-Year Oil Chagne - Retail Price

5) Amsoil ASL 5w30 (qts.) @ $10.15ea = $50.75
1) Amsoil EaO15 = $18.75
1) Shipping = 9.10
1) Sales tax at 7.7% = $5.35
Total = $83.95

Cost-per-mile $0.015

Amsoil One-Year Oil Change - PC Price

5) Amsoil ASL 5w30 (qts.) @ $7.85ea = $39.25
1) Amsoil EaO15 = $14.25
1) Shipping = 9.10
1) Sales tax at 7.7% = $4.12
1) Six-month PC Trial = 10.00
Total = $76.72

Cost-per-mile = $0.014

The Big-Box Oil Change

2) Quaker State Ultimate Durability 5w30 (5qt jug) @ $21.97ea = $43.94
1) Fram Ultra XG8A = $8.97
1) Sales tax at 7.7% = $4.07
Total = $56.98

Cost-per-mile = $0.010

Now assume that the Quaker State Ultimate Durability can do a 6-month/7,500 mile oil change; 15,000 miles driven in one year. With the same two oil changes and one oil filter, the cost per mile goes to = $0.003

Now assume we take Amsoil Signature Series to 15,000 miles in one year with the same 5 quarts of oil and one EaO oil filter, the cost per mile goes to = $0.005

So how many consumers drive more than 7,500 miles in 6 months? How many consumers drive 12,500 miles in 6 months? Anyone know the national average?
 
Gemstarter, you can spin oil change numbers anyway you want, it doesn't matter. There are alot of unknowns which you are assuming here.

On the topic of oil specs that you posted in your previous post, you think oil performance can be determined by looking at a few specs that aren't even performance related: cold crank, TBN, NOACK, they are just numbers... sure Amsoil has excellent specs, but you don't see it in the point you are trying to get across.

One of the reasons I buy Amsoil is to support competition in the engine oil market, which is good! I happen to be very impressed with Amsoil performance in my car, and I see ZERO reason to switch to Mobil, Pennz, Castrol, etc... makes no sense for me. When people who use Mobil, for example, look towards Amsoil as an option they usually say, why bother? Not really much better, especially for the price. When I consider other oils for my bypass setup in my CRV, I think, no way, why bother? Lesser specs for lesser money, not designed for extreme drains which would likely not last as long in the bypass setup.

Amsoil makes excellent lubricants, for many applications, which many people use and are very happy with.
 
Originally Posted By: brandini
SS says HTO-06 on the product page (at least for 5w30)...

But if you don't drive much, it may not be cost effective per mile for you, but that's a simple excel spreadsheet away from finding out.


It is recommended for HTO-06. It is not formally approved by Honda.
 
Originally Posted By: GemStater
Originally Posted By: brandini
SS says HTO-06 on the product page (at least for 5w30)...

But if you don't drive much, it may not be cost effective per mile for you, but that's a simple excel spreadsheet away from finding out.


Thanks, I forgot the 5w30 SS is HTO-06 rated.

Amsoil's cost analysis. I just picked up Amsoil’s most recent G100 retail catalog, dated 3/15. I believe this is one of the first times they haven't published their comparison of conventional oil changes being changed every 3,000-miles and how the cost compares to Amsoil Signature Series being changed at 1-year/ 25,000 miles. To me, this comparison has always been an exception and not the rule. How many consumers can take advantage of a 25k oil change much less a 15k oil change? Also, how many consumers really change their oil every 3k? I personally don't know any.

I like to use a real world example of what products are available at what price to the average consumer.

Examples:

Average Joe consumer is a savvy consumer. He knows that buying a 5-quart jug of motor oil at the Big-Box-Store typically yields a better price-per-quart versus buying individual quarts from the auto parts stores.

Average Joe consumer is raising a family on a tight budget. He simply doesn’t have the reserve funds to purchase Amsoil Signature Series in the case of twelve quarts which yields a slightly better price-per-quart.

Average Joe consumer drives a Dodge minivan with 5-quart capacity. True story, last year Joe drove 5,297 miles. This was predominantly stop-in-go driving. Through Used Oil Analysis, it was discovered that 5,297 miles of stop-in-go driving over the course of one-year used up 9.23 of the starting 12.6 TBN of Amsoil Signature Series.

In this application, a typical brand name motor oil of 7-to-9 TBN, starting, will likely come up short of a one-year oil change. Two oil changes per year in this application, Spring/Fall, with brand name motor oil will likely be the sweet spot. Joe also reasons that one Fram Ultra oil filter will easily last him for one year and two oil changes.

Joe likes the concept of synthetic motor oil and is willing to pay a little extra for it.

Cost-Per-Mile cost analysis driving 5,297 miles in one-year:

Amsoil One-Year Oil Chagne - Retail Price

5) Amsoil ASL 5w30 (qts.) @ $10.15ea = $50.75
1) Amsoil EaO15 = $18.75
1) Shipping = 9.10
1) Sales tax at 7.7% = $5.35
Total = $83.95

Cost-per-mile $0.015

Amsoil One-Year Oil Change - PC Price

5) Amsoil ASL 5w30 (qts.) @ $7.85ea = $39.25
1) Amsoil EaO15 = $14.25
1) Shipping = 9.10
1) Sales tax at 7.7% = $4.12
1) Six-month PC Trial = 10.00
Total = $76.72

Cost-per-mile = $0.014

The Big-Box Oil Change

2) Quaker State Ultimate Durability 5w30 (5qt jug) @ $21.97ea = $43.94
1) Fram Ultra XG8A = $8.97
1) Sales tax at 7.7% = $4.07
Total = $56.98

Cost-per-mile = $0.010

Now assume that the Quaker State Ultimate Durability can do a 6-month/7,500 mile oil change; 15,000 miles driven in one year. With the same two oil changes and one oil filter, the cost per mile goes to = $0.003

Now assume we take Amsoil Signature Series to 15,000 miles in one year with the same 5 quarts of oil and one EaO oil filter, the cost per mile goes to = $0.005

So how many consumers drive more than 7,500 miles in 6 months? How many consumers drive 12,500 miles in 6 months? Anyone know the national average?


One thing immediately comes to mind when I see some of these comparisons. I would never buy a used car from someone who followed Amsoil's or anyone else's for that matter recommendation of 1 year or 25,000 mile OCI's. I don't care how clean the car is or how it runs.

If I saw that kind of OCI I'd run away from the car, and go with the guy who used the cheaper oil and changed it more often. 6 months or 5,000, 6,000 or even 7,500 miles with a less costly synthetic sounds a whole lot better to me, all things being equal. No offense intended towards anyone. Just think about what someone who knows how to check out a car is thinking when they really look a car over and check service logs before they buy. So while you might be saving time and money extending the OCI, you might be hurting yourself when it comes time to sell, depending on the potential buyer.
 
Originally Posted By: zpinch
Gemstarter, you can spin oil change numbers anyway you want, it doesn't matter. There are alot of unknowns which you are assuming here.

On the topic of oil specs that you posted in your previous post, you think oil performance can be determined by looking at a few specs that aren't even performance related: cold crank, TBN, NOACK, they are just numbers... sure Amsoil has excellent specs, but you don't see it in the point you are trying to get across.

One of the reasons I buy Amsoil is to support competition in the engine oil market, which is good! I happen to be very impressed with Amsoil performance in my car, and I see ZERO reason to switch to Mobil, Pennz, Castrol, etc... makes no sense for me. When people who use Mobil, for example, look towards Amsoil as an option they usually say, why bother? Not really much better, especially for the price. When I consider other oils for my bypass setup in my CRV, I think, no way, why bother? Lesser specs for lesser money, not designed for extreme drains which would likely not last as long in the bypass setup.

Amsoil makes excellent lubricants, for many applications, which many people use and are very happy with.


I agree, Amsoil does make excellent lubricants. Both my vehicles have Amsoil trans fluids, one of them has the EaA in the factory air box. Never said they make inferior products. However, IMO, when it comes to motor oil, they're operating under a dated philosophy of comparing themselves to how the competition used to be years, perhaps decades ago. Within the last few years, I've noticed the competition really move ahead with Group III Synthetics. Amsoil simply doesn't have the value-per-dollar they used to have. Time to get with the times and reevaluate the business model. It pains my to say it because I used to be a huge Amsoil fan, now I find myself mostly disappointed.

I agree that looking at oil specs on paper isn't the best indicator of real world performance. However, for years, I've noted used oil analysis where Pennzoil Platinum and Quaker State Ultimate Durability do well in the given mileage range I referenced above, 5,000-to-7,500 miles. Some even take the OCIs out to 10,000 miles and beyond. The point I was trying to make is if the specs on paper look good and UOA results are good, then one can conclude within reason, it's a good oil worth buying.

I found this interesting. On the Quaker State Ultimate Durability PDS, it says this: Wear Protection - No synthetic motor oil provides better wear protection based on (ASTM D6891) Sequence IV-A, wear test on 5w30 engine oil.

Many will likely equate this statement to marketing fluff. Really, all the blenders have their fair share of marketing fluff. However, it got me thinking a bit. Is it possible that once you reach a certain level of engine oil protection, you're not going to find any measurable improvement with any other product on the market? At that point, perhaps the only measurable change you'll experience is the affect on your wallet?
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
[If I saw that kind of OCI I'd run away from the car, and go with the guy who used the cheaper oil and changed it more often. 6 months or 5,000, 6,000 or even 7,500 miles with a less costly synthetic sounds a whole lot better to me, all things being equal. No offense intended towards anyone. Just think about what someone who knows how to check out a car is thinking when they really look a car over and check service logs before they buy. So while you might be saving time and money extending the OCI, you might be hurting yourself when it comes time to sell, depending on the potential buyer.


Interesting. The tattletale for me, when looking under the hood of a used car, is whether the brake fluid is dark or clear. Clear is an instant indication that the vehicle has been well attended to. Dark.....Not so much.

If records are available, I agree on the OCI thing. I am anal about engine oil, and have never been one to exceed the recommended OCI. But that is just me.
 
Wow, this is really a great discussion. Here's my
49.gif



Hate the MLM? I get that, I'm not enamored of it either. It is an old fashioned system to get inexpensive marketing and distribution for the company, at the expense of the customers. I would not be surprised to see this go away when the founder passes, as well as a few other practices. The comments about Amsoil not updating with the times is correct in many ways. Stay tuned on that one.


Signature Series: Not everyone can (or is willing to!) benefit from the extended drains possible with SS, so its higher cost is an instant turn off for most. But you can't argue about the results; it is a very good oil. To be fair, if you're not extending your OCI, you are probably wasting your money buying this oil - but you will never have to worry about your oil's condition.

I can say that our Jeep Wrangler with nearly 190k has had AMSOIL Signature Series nearly all of its life. New head gasket at 165k and the tech that did the work said the internals were "spotless". I've previously posted a pic of the inside of the filler at around 175k. Dirty on the outside, clean on the inside. And this was with intervals of up to 12000 miles, owner's manual says 6k max. UOA said it could have gone further.


XL/OE: As mentioned earlier in the thread, these are closer to what you find on the shelf. In some cases better than, in some cases not quite as good as what you will find there. Performance was mentioned earlier in the thread; either of these oils will perform well at a normal OCI and by "normal" I mean up to 10k/manufacturer's recommended interval in a modern vehicle.


Cost: I don't know where some of the Amsoil bashers got their costs. Just yesterday I ordered a case of 0w20 OE in the gallon containers. Cost as a preferred customer was 4.34 per quart, and $15 shipping to rural Montana brought it to $5.28 per quart. That's delivered to my door. Single quarts/gallons are more expensive, as with everything you have to shop a little to get a better price. The per-quart price for a case of 4, 1-gallon containers is significantly lower than buying singly. To compare, last time I shopped oil, I shook my head. M1 in quarts was $7.98. 5 quart jug was $27.98 which made it $5.59 per quart.


So I get a quality oil delivered to me at home, at less than M1 prices. I don't have to go fight traffic, walk through a [censored] of toys and HBA and stand waiting in a line then drive home in order to get it. My time is worth much more than that.

For me, Amsoil works.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Kuato


Cost: I don't know where some of the Amsoil bashers got their costs. Just yesterday I ordered a case of 0w20 OE in the gallon containers. Cost as a preferred customer was 4.34 per quart, and $15 shipping to rural Montana brought it to $5.28 per quart. That's delivered to my door. Single quarts/gallons are more expensive, as with everything you have to shop a little to get a better price. The per-quart price for a case of 4, 1-gallon containers is significantly lower than buying singly. To compare, last time I shopped oil, I shook my head. M1 in quarts was $7.98. 5 quart jug was $27.98 which made it $5.59 per quart.


So I get a quality oil delivered to me at home, at less than M1 prices. I don't have to go fight traffic, walk through a [censored] of toys and HBA and stand waiting in a line then drive home in order to get it. My time is worth much more than that.

For me, Amsoil works.


Cost: The cost comparison in my previous post is taking into account a Preferred Customer 6-month trial fee in addition to Shipping cost and Sales tax. In order to buy Amsoil at wholesale cost, one has to pay a fee. That should be included into overall costs to purchase product. In that post, my example in which Joe Average wants to try a five quart oil change with oil filter, he pays $10 dollars to buy it wholesale.

Big-Box-Store: Sure, to be fair, one should factor time, vehicle wear-n-tear, fuel costs to drive to their Big-Box-Store. In my case, our Walmart and Costco is across the street from one another. In the past I haven't been a big Walmart shopper, but we do go to Costco often, more so recently since I've taken to buying Costco Top Tier Fuel. So I don't really have to go out of my way to stop into my Walmart when I was right there anyway. Also, our Walmart has a side door at the Auto Care Center, I can bypass the rest of the store by simply using this side door. Walk in, the oil is right there, pay at the Auto Center, in-and-out quick, super easy. - The experience for others may vary.
 
Originally Posted By: 4wheeldog
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
[If I saw that kind of OCI I'd run away from the car, and go with the guy who used the cheaper oil and changed it more often. 6 months or 5,000, 6,000 or even 7,500 miles with a less costly synthetic sounds a whole lot better to me, all things being equal. No offense intended towards anyone. Just think about what someone who knows how to check out a car is thinking when they really look a car over and check service logs before they buy. So while you might be saving time and money extending the OCI, you might be hurting yourself when it comes time to sell, depending on the potential buyer.


Interesting. The tattletale for me, when looking under the hood of a used car, is whether the brake fluid is dark or clear. Clear is an instant indication that the vehicle has been well attended to. Dark.....Not so much.

If records are available, I agree on the OCI thing. I am anal about engine oil, and have never been one to exceed the recommended OCI. But that is just me.


We have a lot in common. You nailed it, brake fluid condition, oil change intervals, ATF changes, etc. they all come into play when I look at a car. When I buy a used car I don't want to buy someone else's headache. A through inspection, and viewing a maintenance log are very important. Sure records can be fudged, but if you know what to look for you can tell.

Long OCI's are certainly impressive around here, but when buying a used car I'd rather buy from someone who skipped the long OCI's.
 
I agree. When my dad bought his 2003 Silverado 2500HD with the 8.1L gas V8, he was surprised he was burning 1 qt of Kendall GT-1 5W30/10W30 every 1K miles. I told him to switch to Amsoil due to the higher flash point[at the time, Kendall's was one of the lowest]. His oil consumption disappeared.

But now, I would recommend something like a Rotella T5 10W30 or T6 5W40[spends half of every year in Yuma, AZ], and he can save the $$ and get it at Autozone.

In other words, most of the competition has caught up to Amsoil, and Amsoil seems to be resting on their laurels.


Originally Posted By: GemStater
Originally Posted By: zpinch
Gemstarter, you can spin oil change numbers anyway you want, it doesn't matter. There are alot of unknowns which you are assuming here.

On the topic of oil specs that you posted in your previous post, you think oil performance can be determined by looking at a few specs that aren't even performance related: cold crank, TBN, NOACK, they are just numbers... sure Amsoil has excellent specs, but you don't see it in the point you are trying to get across.

One of the reasons I buy Amsoil is to support competition in the engine oil market, which is good! I happen to be very impressed with Amsoil performance in my car, and I see ZERO reason to switch to Mobil, Pennz, Castrol, etc... makes no sense for me. When people who use Mobil, for example, look towards Amsoil as an option they usually say, why bother? Not really much better, especially for the price. When I consider other oils for my bypass setup in my CRV, I think, no way, why bother? Lesser specs for lesser money, not designed for extreme drains which would likely not last as long in the bypass setup.

Amsoil makes excellent lubricants, for many applications, which many people use and are very happy with.


I agree, Amsoil does make excellent lubricants. Both my vehicles have Amsoil trans fluids, one of them has the EaA in the factory air box. Never said they make inferior products. However, IMO, when it comes to motor oil, they're operating under a dated philosophy of comparing themselves to how the competition used to be years, perhaps decades ago. Within the last few years, I've noticed the competition really move ahead with Group III Synthetics. Amsoil simply doesn't have the value-per-dollar they used to have. Time to get with the times and reevaluate the business model. It pains my to say it because I used to be a huge Amsoil fan, now I find myself mostly disappointed.

I agree that looking at oil specs on paper isn't the best indicator of real world performance. However, for years, I've noted used oil analysis where Pennzoil Platinum and Quaker State Ultimate Durability do well in the given mileage range I referenced above, 5,000-to-7,500 miles. Some even take the OCIs out to 10,000 miles and beyond. The point I was trying to make is if the specs on paper look good and UOA results are good, then one can conclude within reason, it's a good oil worth buying.

I found this interesting. On the Quaker State Ultimate Durability PDS, it says this: Wear Protection - No synthetic motor oil provides better wear protection based on (ASTM D6891) Sequence IV-A, wear test on 5w30 engine oil.

Many will likely equate this statement to marketing fluff. Really, all the blenders have their fair share of marketing fluff. However, it got me thinking a bit. Is it possible that once you reach a certain level of engine oil protection, you're not going to find any measurable improvement with any other product on the market? At that point, perhaps the only measurable change you'll experience is the affect on your wallet?
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: 4wheeldog
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
[If I saw that kind of OCI I'd run away from the car, and go with the guy who used the cheaper oil and changed it more often. 6 months or 5,000, 6,000 or even 7,500 miles with a less costly synthetic sounds a whole lot better to me, all things being equal. No offense intended towards anyone. Just think about what someone who knows how to check out a car is thinking when they really look a car over and check service logs before they buy. So while you might be saving time and money extending the OCI, you might be hurting yourself when it comes time to sell, depending on the potential buyer.


Interesting. The tattletale for me, when looking under the hood of a used car, is whether the brake fluid is dark or clear. Clear is an instant indication that the vehicle has been well attended to. Dark.....Not so much.

If records are available, I agree on the OCI thing. I am anal about engine oil, and have never been one to exceed the recommended OCI. But that is just me.


We have a lot in common. You nailed it, brake fluid condition, oil change intervals, ATF changes, etc. they all come into play when I look at a car. When I buy a used car I don't want to buy someone else's headache. A through inspection, and viewing a maintenance log are very important. Sure records can be fudged, but if you know what to look for you can tell.

Long OCI's are certainly impressive around here, but when buying a used car I'd rather buy from someone who skipped the long OCI's.


My main point is that I don't believe a lot of consumers drive that many miles and can take advantage of of long 15-to-25k OCIs. Maybe if you're a traveling salesman, have a mechanically sound vehicle, drive 99% highway miles; then Amsoil Signatures Series may be a good option for you.

Also, I believe that a lot, not all, but a lot of people who attempt long OCIs are also hip to Used Oil Analysis. So if I were buying a used car and the owner had a stack of used oil analysis from an accredited lab that showed nothing abnormal, I'd be fine with it. I'd also be fine with seeing things like fuel dilution %, sodium content for a potential antifreeze leak and silicon content for possible intake gasket leak. In fact, I'd prefer it.

Also, like I pointed out, up until recently, Amsoil has used a very dated conventional motor oil change schedule of 3,000-mile or 3-months in their cost comparisons, I really wish they'd reconsider using this as a selling point.

For example, my old daily driver, a 1997 Honda Civic has this in the owners manual:

Maintenance Schedule (Normal Conditions) - Replace engine oil every 7,500 miles or 12 months

Maintenance Schedule (Severe Conditions) - Replace engine oil and filter every 3,750 miles or 6 months

Consider the above maintenance schedule recommendations are with 1997 era API (SH) conventional motor oil.

The point, as far as I know, most manufactures don't recommend the dated 3,000-mile or 3-month recommendation. Most consumers probably don't follow it either. So why is Amsoil still using it? Answer, because its key to their dated sales pitch.

The other point, with a modern Full Synthetic Group III API (SN) rated motor oil, not too far of a stretch, at all, to imagine a 6-month/7,500 mile oil change. Oh wait, the used oil analysis already proved this.

So who's really spinning the data?
 
Your point is well taken. It looks like our opinions differ slightly now.
wink.gif
While used oil analysis are a useful tool they are far from perfect, and not convincing enough for me to buy a car from a person who has run very long OCI's. I don't like to gamble, especially with cars from my area that a very large percent of them fall into severe service usage.

As far as who's really spinning the data? We both agree 100% on that.
 
been an Amsoil user a long time, a satisfied customer i was but now i find out that somewhere in time they quietly started replacing the PAO base oils with cheaper group III oils. signature series still "supposed" to be PAO base oil. i realize they use a great add pack + base oil quality varies within said groups but some attributes as shear stability for motorcycle use is gone. group III oils are better than ever but i want the PAO for my big Vic 106 cu in with shared gearbox lubing. also my 2001 modified TT is using more Amsoil even after switching to the 10-40 premium "synthetic" now group III i believe. seems Amsoil is getting sneaky like all the rest, hungry for more $$$. Penrite oils from Australia shows what base oils are used in their various products. Redline is prolly the best but more costly, prolly use it in the Vic as for Penrite its found sparingly in the states, summitracing shows as a distributor but it was on their web but removed, gotta give them a call.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: benjy
been an Amsoil user a long time, a satisfied customer i was but now i find out that somewhere in time they quietly started replacing the PAO base oils with cheaper group III oils. signature series still "supposed" to be PAO base oil. i realize they use a great add pack + base oil quality varies within said groups but some attributes as shear stability for motorcycle use is gone. group III oils are better than ever but i want the PAO for my big Vic 106 cu in with shared gearbox lubing. also my 2001 modified TT is using more Amsoil even after switching to the 10-40 premium "synthetic" now group III i believe. seems Amsoil is getting sneaky like all the rest, hungry for more $$$. Penrite oils from Australia shows what base oils are used in their various products. Redline is prolly the best but more costly, prolly use it in the Vic as for Penrite its found sparingly in the states, summitracing shows as a distributor but it was on their web but removed, gotta give them a call.


I don't know for sure, nobody does, but I believe the Signature Series and other premium fluids are still predominantly PAO with some Ester.
 
I believe after reading this entire thread,
that the Amsoil dealers are the target
consumers of the products.

After 30 minutes of reading the question remains.

The little Mobil product guide I picked up at
Cool Creek Agencies in Kamloops, BC listed a
few engine oils I had not seen before.

ESP 5W40 Formula M,
Delvac 10W30 and 15W40 Elite,
5W40 SHO, and 15W40 MX.

Can anyone tell me what is so great about those oils?
 
Not sure, Benjy, that Amsoil is offering the Grp III stuff as a means of "cheapening" everything to mess over folks. I am more convinced they are trying to broaden their customer base. While it is true that the end game of any business is profits, you have to have customers, and lots of them, to do it. When synthetic was more of boutique thing, they had a corner on the market. Now that synthetics are on every shelf in the country, under just about every brand name there is, folks like Amsoil have to not only attract customers, but keep them. That is not viable only offering Group IV base oils. It really limits your customer base. And with the lower priced offerings, they can attract a new set of buyers and maybe eventually move them up to the top end stuff. It is simple, basic marketing. They still offer the top tier products for the die hard purists in the market, but they also offer other products that are more reasonably priced, and still good quality for those other potential customers that don't have as deep of pockets as some do. I am not an Amsoil junkie, and only use a few items of theirs, but I find it refreshing that there are so many product choices to chose from so that folks have a variety to fit their needs.

I am not into the PAO or nothing mindset. Actually, I like blends of PAO and Group III. Each has something special to bring to the party so why not invite them both?
 
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