Whats in your oil stash?

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Originally Posted By: crazyoildude
i returned mine because i think Mobil is superior to Pennzoil.. I also like the idea that Mobil lists their pds on their website for all their oils and they are up to date not like "some" companies so its easy to find and i also like the double seals mobil uses on their oil containers..
In a couple of months i will post some uoa's..


So could you tell us what makes M1 better than the others? I've asked you a few times, I'm waiting. Can't wait to see the UOAs.

Demarpaint, I don't use M1 for that same reason. They don't meet MS-6395. If they did, I would gladly use it.
 
Those two oil companies are competitive and business partners at the same time. Both upstream and downstream...
When it does not look likely to gain some business over the other (Fiat) they choose to not saddle a dead horse ...
(For one thing, they knew T&C of the contract already).
But, Mobil Super is a good quality bulk seller at quick lubes - it needs to wear the right "badges" for that ...

Mobil 1 for Chrysler? Perhaps next shot is GF-6 ... Would not be surprised if that is not in the works ...
Worst case if you don't get factory fill contract - it sells a bit more off the shelf.
At the end of the day - several companies have filled Mopar bottles through the years - but I never grabbed one off a shelf.
 
What are the performance requirements of the MS-6395 cert?
It seems likely that M1 would meet them if the less costly MS does whether the labeling reflects this or not. Is the Fiat-Chrysler spec that much tougher than the dexos 1 spec that M1 is licensed for?
WRT bottles and seals, I find the mylar seal a bit of a nuisance in that you have to either cut or puncture it to pour the oil and you must obviously be careful not to get any of it into the fill hole.
I have Ultra, PP, QSUD, T5, D1, M1 and MSS in the stash and I'd have no problems personally using any of these oils in most any application. Even the T5 or D1 would actually be fine for warm weather use in our one car for which 0W-20 is the recommended grade. We already know that the best 0W-20 is thicker on a typical winter morning than is either a 10W or 5W on a typical summer one and we also know that cars for which twenty grades are recommended here have forty grade recommendations in other markets.
 
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
What are the performance requirements of the MS-6395 cert?
It seems likely that M1 would meet them if the less costly MS does whether the labeling reflects this or not. Is the Fiat-Chrysler spec that much tougher than the dexos 1 spec that M1 is licensed for?
WRT bottles and seals, I find the mylar seal a bit of a nuisance in that you have to either cut or puncture it to pour the oil and you must obviously be careful not to get any of it into the fill hole.
I have Ultra, PP, QSUD, T5, D1, M1 and MSS in the stash and I'd have no problems personally using any of these oils in most any application. Even the T5 or D1 would actually be fine for warm weather use in our one car for which 0W-20 is the recommended grade. We already know that the best 0W-20 is thicker on a typical winwter morning than is either a 10W or 5W on a typical summer one and we also know that cars for which twenty grades are recommended here have forty grade recommendations in other markets.


I have no idea what the requirements are, I'm pretty sure they're not that stringent and it was sour grapes between Chrysler and XOM. Unfortunately I have zero control over that. I kept it simple, I called XOM and asked if they'd back me up in the rare event of an oil related engine issue. Their answer was short and to the point, use Super, yes, use Mobil 1, no. Is Mobil 1 the better product? Yes, but it doesn't meet the MS6395 spec which sounds as stupid to me as it might to you and several other members. Since 'my' ace in the hole service writer no longer works for Jeep the spec matters. A funny thing is a few years ago XOM said they needed 2 years to complete the testing. IIRC that was a lot longer than 2 years ago.

Again I have nothing against Mobil 1 it served me well for years. Had I not bought a new Rubicon I'd probably still be using it. XOM is a class operation, their tech that I chatted with was painfully honest. With regard to the Pennzoil product IMO it is as good, or in 'my' case better than Mobil 1 because it meets the spec, and takes one potential problem out of the equation for 'me'. 'I' try and do what's easiest and best for 'me'. In this case I feel I did what was best for me, and shared my reasons since I posted in this thread and was asked why. HTH
 
Originally Posted By: Farmer


Demarpaint, I don't use M1 for that same reason. They don't meet MS-6395. If they did, I would gladly use it.


I see I'm in good company and not the only person that made the decision to change.
 
Chrysler has been married more times than Liz Taylor ...Can you imagine trying to deal with all that from a contract, technical, and payables perspective ...
With the huge number of OEM specs out there today - too bad API, ACEA, and ILSAC are not enough ...
Pay>>Play>>Pay
 
Originally Posted By: 4WD
Chrysler has been married more times than Liz Taylor ...Can you imagine trying to deal with all that from a contract, technical, and payables perspective ...
With the huge number of OEM specs out there today - too bad API, ACEA, and ILSAC are not enough ...
Pay>>Play>>Pay


For sure, it appears Mobil decided to pay up for Super, but not their flagship products. There's probably millions of people putting Mobil 1 in their Chrysler products and never once even thought about checking the spec. But this is Bitog.......
 
Sorry Farmer i did not see your post before...
I have no real problem with Pennzoil i have used Pennzoil all my life until just recently I have heard that pennzoil lost its punch and figured i would check it out but it seems odd i could not find any recent pds anywhere i looked. On the other hand Mobil lists theirs in many places.. I also like the idea of a double seal on the cap to prevent oil leaking out or something leaking in. I have seen many times the levels on the pennzoil jugs brand new are not always the same possibly due to the bad design of the jugs..
Like i said before i have used Pennzoil for many years and got very high mileage out of everything i used it in.. Did it change? Who knows..
I do have a quart of pennzoil from november 2014 which i may use to send a sample just to see and know for sure.
As for the best oil they are both good oils.
 
Originally Posted By: 4WD
With the huge number of OEM specs out there today - too bad API, ACEA, and ILSAC are not enough ...


I'm with you 4WD, surely API and ACEA should cover most things.

Like SN and A1/B1 or A5/B5 should cover most of GM dexos1 and Chrysler MS-6395 and Ford WSS-M2C946-A & M2C-913-D. Also ACEA C3 should cover dexos2, and A3/B4 is close to MB229.5 (Noack is a bit lower on the MB spec).

Technically it wouldn't take much to tidy up the whole situation, but politically it's probably a much bigger problem.
 
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Hard to believe I haven't bought any oil or filters since last year's autozone closeouts...

Just have 4 5qt jugs of QSUD 5w30, 1 5qt jug of PP 5w30, and 2 5qt jugs of M1 0w30.


Will be less than that after the next round of changes soon....
 
If you want Pennzoil PDS I don't know why you don't look at the ones on their site. It's just listed on each individual oil page. You're wondering why it hasn't been updated since 2014? Well have you ever thought if GF6 is out yet? When it comes out they will change all their PD sheets. Jeez think a little please.
 
I have 3-5qt jugs of Valvoline Syn w/Maxlife 5w-30
A few qts of Napa Synthetic 5w-30
1 5qt jug of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30
A few qt bottles of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30
1qt Mobil 5000 5w-20
 
20L x Delvac 1300 15w40
20L x Delvac 1330 SAE30
20L x PC Supertest TO-4+ SAE30
12L x 10w40 Pet-can pcmo
10L x 10w40 GTX
10L x Duron 15w40
08L x PC 20w50 (goes with the 10w40 to make 15w40 pcmo)
10L x 75w90 (goes with the 80w140 to make 75w110)
20L x 80w140 XL syn blend Pet-Can
24L x Dexron VI Petro-Can
15L x CD50 Chevron
10L x cracker bottoms (left-overs)
 
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
Do you use the same principle in purchasing fuel and only buy what you need each day?
After all, why tie your money up in inventory?
Let the gas stations do it for you.


A full tank of fuel might last 2 weeks. Some of these inventory stashes could last 2 decades.

My whole stash consists of 15 qts 0w20 PP and 10 qts 0w20 AFE, and I think I overdid it by about 15 quarts. 2 oil changes is all you need on hand. One for you and one for someone else.....unless you're servicing multiple vehicles. What if something better comes out tomorrow?
 
2x5L jugs of PPPP 5w20 and one with 2L.
1x1L of PYB 5w30.
a few liters of random 5w30.
1x5L of Co-op 75w90
approx. 14 liters of of Co-op 80w140.
6 small bottles of Husqvarna 2 stroke oil.
 
I just have a jug of MaxLife 5W-20 that is intended for my girlfriend's Sable before winter hits and a jug of Edge 0W-20 that will go into my Sentra this weekend.
 
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