should I go OEM BMW or WalmartI'm leaning towards Excide since it's the OEM for BMW batteries.
I saw in one of your other threads that you have a costco membership. Their return policy can't be beat
What's considered good battery volts?
- Thread starter mosaud1998
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I saw in one of your other threads that you have a costco membership. Their return policy can't be beat
Isn't it just a 3-year return policy on batteries? Or is it technically lifetime?
yeah 3 years but no questions asked at customer service if ever it did give you trouble.
I wouldn't get Exide, I'd get JCI/Clarios. The longest warranty out there is probably Pepboys. Their Champion is 4 years, other places like Autozone, Advance Auto are 3 years. I think Costco is either Interstate or Kirkland, but it's still just 3 years. Check the voltage with a meter, probably nothing wrong with it.
Do exide batteries not last long?
SO MUCH MISINFORMATION in this thread.
BOTTOM LINE IS THIS: You have to take the voltage reading AT the battery NOT thru the ALDL connector using a Scan tool. The voltage thru the ALDL is sucked down from all the modules and electronics and the scan tool itself gets power from the ALDL. With that being said, 12.14 at the ALDL is more than likely about 12.3 at the battery terminals. You want to see 12.6 or better at the terminals for a fully charged battery.
BOTTOM LINE IS THIS: You have to take the voltage reading AT the battery NOT thru the ALDL connector using a Scan tool. The voltage thru the ALDL is sucked down from all the modules and electronics and the scan tool itself gets power from the ALDL. With that being said, 12.14 at the ALDL is more than likely about 12.3 at the battery terminals. You want to see 12.6 or better at the terminals for a fully charged battery.
It could be that my 2 cheap/free HF multimeter each read a tiny bit low at 12.4v-12.5v after a decent amount of time(4 hrs) on a maintainer, and showing full charge(Green Light).
When I test the batteries about an hour after removing the maintainer BUT without opening the doors to pop the hood and just keeping the hoop unlatched. I'll put the multimeter right on the battery posts to test them, this 12.4v-12.5v is what I get.
When I test the batteries about an hour after removing the maintainer BUT without opening the doors to pop the hood and just keeping the hoop unlatched. I'll put the multimeter right on the battery posts to test them, this 12.4v-12.5v is what I get.
Aren't you supposed to turn lights on first for a few seconds to remove surface charge before measuring?
Good question. I would have confidence in a BatteryTender, BatteryMinder, and other name brands.How do I know if it's legit? I paid $20for it on amazon
I would try it with another car battery and measure the voltage with the battery trickle charger attached. And not attached.
A 3-year old battery is just not going to hold 12.6V anymore.
The voltage you see at any given time is related to the state of charge and state of health.
In this case its been charged so its the health you're observing, and it is in the later part of its life. But even 12.1-12.2V in cold temperature means 12.3-12.4 at ambient...
Which indicates you still have some life.
So if it turns over you are fine. If you are risk averse go buy a battery.
The voltage you see at any given time is related to the state of charge and state of health.
In this case its been charged so its the health you're observing, and it is in the later part of its life. But even 12.1-12.2V in cold temperature means 12.3-12.4 at ambient...
Which indicates you still have some life.
So if it turns over you are fine. If you are risk averse go buy a battery.
IDK!
Although it isn't something that I am too concerned about, I can't say that I have heard of doing that however, I am sure that there are two(or more) schools of thought.
I figured that, after after an hour of removing the maintainer, I'll check the battery voltage(clock & computer memory operating) that the voltage reading should be accurate? I mean, there is always something running/operating in a vehicle, correct? Wouldn't this remove the surface charge as you mentioned?
That's just parasitic drain which is very small - it may or may not remove surface charge. From what I understand, you need a little bit of higher load, like from headlights, to remove surface charge. Maybe someone else will chime in.I figured that, after after an hour of removing the maintainer, I'll check the battery voltage(clock & computer memory operating) that the voltage reading should be accurate? I mean, there is always something running/operating in a vehicle, correct? Wouldn't this remove the surface charge as you mentioned?
Water Loss, Acid Stratification and Surface Charge - Battery University
Explore simple guidelines to prolong lead acid batteries by proper use
batteryuniversity.com
Of the 3 battery makers, Exide is considered the worst. East Penn/Deka is well liked, but they're small volume. JCI/Clarios is the other major one and they also make a majority of batteries. Bosch is about the only AGM brand that I know is Exide. Pepboys used to carry them and they got rid of them so it was hard to get them to honor their warranty if they didn't even carry the battery in stock anymore.
Update: I just had the battery tested at two different auto stores. Advance auto and autozone. Battery came out good. 100% charged
Did you pick up a volt meter while you were there? A cheap basic one is only $10-$20.
I found my dads volt meter so I’ll let the battery sit for a day and check the volts.
The battery is rated at 790CCA. It put out 740CCA at 12.3V. Idk if you guys know anything about the E90 BMWs but there’s a Valvetronic motor in the variable valve lift system which, in combination with variable valve timing, allows infinite adjustment of the intake valve timing and duration. The system claims to improve fuel economy and emissions, and negates the need for a throttle body in regular use. I noticed the gasket is leaking so there could be a vacuum leak.
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Is your BMW fussy about battery changes?
www.motor.com
'Bright Idea' For Short Detection | MOTOR
The Law of Unintended Consequences I’m working on a 2012 BMW X5 xDrive35i. The customer brought the vehicle to our shop complaining of a slow cranking problem, so we tested the battery and determined that it needed to be replaced. Our normal policy is to install a memory-saver in the OBD II...
www.motor.com
Nope, not that I know of. I've never changed the battery in my BMW yet. The previous owner had it changed by his BMW mechanic in 2016.Is your BMW fussy about battery changes?
'Bright Idea' For Short Detection | MOTOR
The Law of Unintended Consequences I’m working on a 2012 BMW X5 xDrive35i. The customer brought the vehicle to our shop complaining of a slow cranking problem, so we tested the battery and determined that it needed to be replaced. Our normal policy is to install a memory-saver in the OBD II...
If my BMW had these issues, I'm selling it
, screw that
Costco has a straight replacement warranty only, not the long-term prorated warranties which sound great but are better for marketing than any real benefit, and lock you into another purchase with a credit amount.
If things haven't changed, with Costco, if the battery craps out within the 36-month period (used to be 42), bring it back and they'll refund your money, no questions asked. It's not a credit, and doesn't have to be applied toward buying another battery, just straight dough. The catches are that an active membership must be maintained during that period, and not every warehouse stocks every size. Also, Costco Interstates can only be handed by Costco, not other Interstate dealers, but overall, it's a cheaper way to get a Clarios than going elsewhere with a different label.
I've read about some people trying to game the system, and getting a fresh one every ~35 months of so, but since it's a membership, and every purchase is logged, they probably have some internal controls to discourage it. They track returns in general, and will take action against abusers, like a lot of retailers do nowadays.
