What's a 2000+ Crown Victoria / Grand Marquis Worth Now?

I sold my 1999 GM (LS I guess) with 103-105k miles for $2500 a year ago. It had the intake manifold done, and still had good rubber. No rust, just the parking lot dings from both my 90 year old GMA from whom I got the car and my youngest daughter who used it as her high school car.

It was costing me about $800/year in insurance and tags, so I cut it loose. I still see it at a customer site. One of the security guards there bought it and is still driving it.

I'd expect one in decent shape today to be in the $2500-$4k range. The great thing is you'll likely get most of what you have in it back after a few years.

The downside is for a car of this size, the interior really isn't all that space efficient. It has a big trunk, but the passenger compartment is NOT optimized.


I had my mechanic do the intake manifold and it was on the order of $800. But I had it for 6 years, so it served me well.

Even the air ride still worked. But if it goes out on one, you can replace it with standard springs.

The insurance and Registration wouldn't be too bad. Should be about $70/year for registration and last time I checked about $300 a year for liability only. I can't see carrying comprehensive and colission on a cheap vehicle. Seems that I'd spend more insuring the thing than it was worth.

If I get the LS model Grand Marquis it'll get coil springs once nice weather rolls around, It's an easy swap. And a hitch pretty much immediately along with a trans pan drop / filter chnge. I used to use the Forester (or Focus prior) with a utility trailer to do winter time building supplies / construction debris dump runs instead of the pickup. Right now I don't want to drive either my truck or the Cherokee in the salt. What's left of them will disappear pretty much immediately.
 
Then I'll just keep driving my 21 year old pickup which is at risk of breaking in half?

I don't understand your logic. The market is not good, correct. But I'm also in a situation where I need a vehicle. $4000 for something with no rust is worth it to me.
they were generally really good cars. Just change all the fluids when you get it.
 
One more question, how much would the expected mileage overage on the leased vehicle be vs paying for a beater?

Might you be better off just paying for the miles in something a bit more modern?

Just a thought, you do what works for you.
 
Also, book value is low to non-existent, so you'll either need antique car insurance, or roll the dice with liability only (and, in my case, a HEALTHY amount of uninsured motorist property damage!).
I was lucky enough to find (three years ago) '03 Lincoln Town Car, 55,000 miles two owner (veritable old man that passed, family didn't want car), like new for $1,700. Driving it as my company car putting about 27,000 miles year on car. Replaced the air bags cause I liked the ride, but even if you want to replace with coil springs, not very expensive. Seems like everyone trends toward the CV and GM's and that pushes the purchase price up on those models. And it's pretty easy to locate low mileage Town Cars. Look for ones after '03 to avoid the intake problems. On a recent trip from Bristol TN to Richmond VA using 100% gasoline (no ethanol) car got 26.1 mpg using cruise control 74 mile per hour on interstate. Wonderful car.

And it's on my standard auto policy with collision and liability. The car is one of my cheapest in the fleet, way cheaper than my low mileage 2003 F150. Not sure what the book value is as it is way more valuable to me than what some book would show. Absolutely one of the finest vehicles, in terms of ride, options, quality and dependability ever made. The Panther platform was the best Ford Motor Company platform. (and that's coming from a Mustang guy who loves the Fox platform vehicles and F150's ).

Make sure whatever you drive, you have install a dash cam. Mine saved me when dude decided to make a right on red into the side of my front bumper. He lied to his carrier and tried to say I ran light. His insurance carrier was well on their way to deny my claim, until the video footage. Damage would have been about what my deductible was. Camera paid for itself like 50 times over.
 
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One more question, how much would the expected mileage overage on the leased vehicle be vs paying for a beater?

Might you be better off just paying for the miles in something a bit more modern?

Just a thought, you do what works for you.

The biggest thing is I want something that can tide me through until a year or so after we buy a house. I could start daily driving the Nissan today, 100% of my miles, and I wouldn't come close to hitting the 36K mile limit. It's pretty far under mileage - 19 months in and it just hit 6000 miles.

However, because it hasn't been driven in the winter and it isn't rusty, I'd like to pay cash for it after the lease is up. It will be a good "new" vehicle to have (like this summer when I was making three 200 mile round trips a week to see my father) for longer trips or if something pops up. Port injection, actual parking brake and I trust we'll never have CVT problems as long as I can change the fluid and filters regularly.

I have been daily driving it since I sold the Subaru. Im loving the 32MPG to and from work and (hand calculated) 43-46 MPG going to my parents and back! But the more miles i put on it, the less I'm going to want to buy it.



re: Dashcam

I've been running a dashcam for 6 or so years now. I used to publish the content on youtube but got too busy once I bought the house. I always make sure I have it when I'm using a rented vehicle.
 
Love your thinking eg. a simple, rugged DD that isn't an absolute rust bucket and will provide reliable transportation for years to come. Several years ago, I was lucky enough to pick up the holy grail of panther cars: a 2003 Mercury Marauder. I paid $4,300 for it with light rust and 174k on the clock. It served me faithfully with nary an issue until 227k when I sold it on, for what I paid for it, looking much worse for wear.

I can honestly say: get an '03+ model. You aren't just buying the rack and pinion steering, it's so much more. Outboard mounted rear shocks, stiffer frame, improved electronics, etc. Totally understand your aversion to the electronic "goodies", however you're stuck with the common HVAC blend door actuator failure possibility regardless of whether you have EATC or manual controls. The rest is still vacuum controlled, just like old times.

Outside that, nothing about the electric goodies in any panther is prone to failure. The lack of "modules" is refreshing. Take the power windows, for example. Looking at the 2010 CV wiring diagram, when you hit the "down" switch, you're doing nothing but completing a circuit between the window motor and it's power source. My 2000 Jeep, on the other hand, relies on a computer to relay the switch input and send the appropriate signal to said window motor. It's nothing but an added failure point. Same goes for the mirrors, the seats, the dash.

If I were you, I'd find the nicest '03-'07 I could find, regardless of brand/trim, and buy it. You won't be disappointed.

EDIT: I forgot to mention, even with 300 horse on tap, my Marauder had absolutely no issue navigating all but the worst MN snow storms when it had snow tires installed. That's key. That, and having a limited slip diff. If you do end up picking one up, try to get one with the factory LSD. If you can't, consider having one installed. For the money, it makes a huge difference in traction ability.
 
Miller88, I hope you can find what you are looking for. I’d never known these until a couple of months ago helping a local church get a couple of barn finds running for community giving. I was impressed by how these 20 year old cars had held up, started after new fuel pumps and fuel were put in, and drove that day. There’s something elegant about the chassis on these. R&P steering was fine, we had one of each to work on. Those engines purred smoothly and silently.

there’s one at work that gets some love. He’s freshened the paint, redone the interior and done some suspension and wheel work, tastefully but without going overboard. It’s a beautiful thing.
 
Love your thinking eg. a simple, rugged DD that isn't an absolute rust bucket and will provide reliable transportation for years to come. Several years ago, I was lucky enough to pick up the holy grail of panther cars: a 2003 Mercury Marauder. I paid $4,300 for it with light rust and 174k on the clock. It served me faithfully with nary an issue until 227k when I sold it on, for what I paid for it, looking much worse for wear.


EDIT: I forgot to mention, even with 300 horse on tap, my Marauder had absolutely no issue navigating all but the worst MN snow storms when it had snow tires installed. That's key. That, and having a limited slip diff. If you do end up picking one up, try to get one with the factory LSD. If you can't, consider having one installed. For the money, it makes a huge difference in traction ability.

I think they're about the only thing that would provide the mechanical reliabiilty of my 2000 Cherokee (non-grand, XJ style). 214k and still going! And I can fix anything on it.

I held on to the 215/70-16 snow tires from the Subaru. They should fit on the CV (people do it at stock height a lot apparently). Little narrower, little taller. And I'll just but a year's supply of kitty litter and pull out once spring rolls around.
 
My family has 5 or 6 for sale, our father's estate. All low mileage clean cars. One is a retired detective's car with 125,000 miles. That is the oldest and highest mileage one we have. Also the cheapest.
 
Well I'm still having just awful luck. As much as it's kinda always been a dream of mine to have one of these cars, I just don't see it happening at this point.

I've been talking to one seller about a Grand Marquis. I'm VERY interested in it. Even told the seller I'm not going to dicker on price - if it's as good as he says, I'll take it for the listed price. Will show up with cash, bill of sale and trailer. But keep getting pushed back. This is pretty much the only appealing one locally.

So at this point it's either run the Nissan this winter (least desirable as we wanted to keep it long term). Maybe I'll get it Krown treated and buy a set of studded Nokians for this winter. Or stick with what I know and pick up another Cherokee. There's a few rough Cherokees that have at least a winter left in them but they'll be in the scrap yard in the spring. I have an extra set of 16'' jeep wheels and the subaru snow tires will work fine on a not-lifted Cherokee.

Mitsubishi Mirages and Chevy Sparks are still too new to be sub $3k. A first-US year spark with the Aisin 4AT would be my first choice there!

We're down to 1.5 vehicles for now. The truck has a u joint going out in the rear driveshaft so it vibrates pretty bad above 55. I don't want to pull it and get it rebuilt until I know I won't need it to tow home a vehicle. The front differential in the jeep finally expired so that's sitting on a friend's lift with both differentials apart getting a rebuild / regear.

I'm sure the neighbors love this, however. Within the last month I'm down a popup camper, a Subaru and now the Jeep is (temporarily) gone 🤣🤣
 
Well I'm still having just awful luck. As much as it's kinda always been a dream of mine to have one of these cars, I just don't see it happening at this point.

I've been talking to one seller about a Grand Marquis. I'm VERY interested in it. Even told the seller I'm not going to dicker on price - if it's as good as he says, I'll take it for the listed price. Will show up with cash, bill of sale and trailer. But keep getting pushed back. This is pretty much the only appealing one locally.

So at this point it's either run the Nissan this winter (least desirable as we wanted to keep it long term). Maybe I'll get it Krown treated and buy a set of studded Nokians for this winter. Or stick with what I know and pick up another Cherokee. There's a few rough Cherokees that have at least a winter left in them but they'll be in the scrap yard in the spring. I have an extra set of 16'' jeep wheels and the subaru snow tires will work fine on a not-lifted Cherokee.

Mitsubishi Mirages and Chevy Sparks are still too new to be sub $3k. A first-US year spark with the Aisin 4AT would be my first choice there!

We're down to 1.5 vehicles for now. The truck has a u joint going out in the rear driveshaft so it vibrates pretty bad above 55. I don't want to pull it and get it rebuilt until I know I won't need it to tow home a vehicle. The front differential in the jeep finally expired so that's sitting on a friend's lift with both differentials apart getting a rebuild / regear.

I'm sure the neighbors love this, however. Within the last month I'm down a popup camper, a Subaru and now the Jeep is (temporarily) gone 🤣🤣

I found this Vibe

If you really want a panther, you'll have to get a Town Car
Neither of those Town Cars has a digital dash, and even if it has an air suspension, it is easy to convert to coils, and most people do. If you're lucky, it might have even been converted already :sneaky:
 
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Probably one of the cleanest out there!

Oh boy-like my '03 but nicer, leather, 100K LESS miles, AZ car (usually equals underbody clean enough to EAT OFF OF!). Wonder if it would make it 2500 miles back here? Or if it would fit on a one way U-Haul car hauler if not (at 4K, technically too heavy).
 
Oh boy-like my '03 but nicer, leather, 100K LESS miles, AZ car (usually equals underbody clean enough to EAT OFF OF!). Wonder if it would make it 2500 miles back here? Or if it would fit on a one way U-Haul car hauler if not (at 4K, technically too heavy).
That helped, already $4K. It'll be $10K+ by the time the auction ends, too much for an unknown quantity that far away. The $4500 I have in mine (incl. newer wheels & tires, brake pads & rotors on all 4 wheels) looks better all the time!
 
Oh boy-like my '03 but nicer, leather, 100K LESS miles, AZ car (usually equals underbody clean enough to EAT OFF OF!). Wonder if it would make it 2500 miles back here? Or if it would fit on a one way U-Haul car hauler if not (at 4K, technically too heavy).
That helped, already $4K. It'll be $10K+ by the time the auction ends, too much for an unknown quantity that far away. The $4500 I have in mine (incl. newer wheels & tires, brake pads & rotors on all 4 wheels) looks better all the time!

89 F-450 7.3 (old M1 filters & random 15W40), 05 xB(M1 EP & XG3600), 18 Transit 3.7 (Maxlife & VO-88), 03 Merc Grand Marquis 4.6 2V(Magnatec & testing FL820S), 11 Express 35


We have a 2009 with 39,000 miles if interested.
 
I found this Vibe

If you really want a panther, you'll have to get a Town Car
Neither of those Town Cars has a digital dash, and even if it has an air suspension, it is easy to convert to coils, and most people do. If you're lucky, it might have even been converted already :sneaky:


The one grand marquis i've been trying to buy has already been converted to coils. It's an LS but the seller says it has coils, so someone got in there before. Towncars are a bit too fancy for my tastes but if I had to, I guess I could.

Do the towncars have better gearing or are they all 2.73:1? That is the biggest thing I won't like and will probably change. Modular v8s are not low speed engines
 
The one grand marquis i've been trying to buy has already been converted to coils. It's an LS but the seller says it has coils, so someone got in there before. Towncars are a bit too fancy for my tastes but if I had to, I guess I could.

Do the towncars have better gearing or are they all 2.73:1? That is the biggest thing I won't like and will probably change. Modular v8s are not low speed engines
Have you looked at @HM12460’s car?
 
The one grand marquis i've been trying to buy has already been converted to coils. It's an LS but the seller says it has coils, so someone got in there before. Towncars are a bit too fancy for my tastes but if I had to, I guess I could.

Do the towncars have better gearing or are they all 2.73:1? That is the biggest thing I won't like and will probably change. Modular v8s are not low speed engines
I think it's 3.55 for the Town Car
 
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