What would you use? Oil recommendations requested.

[Bighorn2500]

Mobil 1 HM 5W30 or Pennzoil HM 5W30

 

[69GTX]

Originally Posted By: Kuato

At 410k miles, keep doing what you are doing with the 30 weight. I agree with using a 10w30 in your mild climate, and like the Valvoline.

What he had been doing was running a 20 grade since purchasing the vehicle 66K miles ago....or at least that's how it reads. No mention of what the original owner did to get to 350,000 miles. But, I would assume the Quick Lubes put in the recommended 30 grade oil. Car has probably spent most of its life on 30 grade. Any quality 5/10w-30 you can find on sale during the year at $2.00/qt or less. The synthetics PP/QSUD/M1/Castrol Edge and even Synpower can be found in the $2/qt range during the year. If you've had decent luck with the QS/PP formulations, stick with them. Those oils are always on sale during the year. You can buy a jug of 5w-30 QSUD right now from Walmart at $19.77 which is $12.77 after mfg rebate. I just put that same oil in my 2002.

 

[StreetCreeper]

Originally Posted By: bullwinkle

I would move up to the recommended 5W30, or even a 10W30 (or 10W40 if necessary) Maxlife red bottle. I have a somewhat similar situation on the XJ Cherokee in my sig, using 5W30 it will lose/burn a quart every 1K or so, but since I switched to Maxlife 10W40 it hasn't gotten off the full line yet. Only side effect has been slower cranking speed below 10F, which you don't have to worry about. And-

Do you feel that a thicker viscosity translates to increase protection against engine wear during normal operation, or do you like it more for its ability to not burn off or leak? What about at cold start-up where I've continually read that the lions share of engine wear occurs? I see a lot of people recommending the factory 5w-30 (presumably because that is what Toyota recommended in 1997), but I'm curious if the people who are recommending thicker viscosity oil than what the manufacturers suggested — are doing so because they feel that viscosity directly translates to an increase in engine wear protection vs lower viscosity oil. Or is it simply a matter of not wasting oil or money on more oil. Also, Toyota suggested a 5w-30 oil 20 years ago when my truck was new, but I'm curious if engine oil tech has changed in any significant ways over the last 20 years? Does their suggestion of using 5w-30 oil still apply to modern oils produced today especially on an engine with nearly half a million miles? I personally don't feel that I'm burning much oil when I consider the age and miles on my engine. So my main priority is using an oil that provides as much start-up protection as possible along with additives that are conductive to high milage engines. Thanks for the warm welcome btw!

 

[mehullica]

I'd run any good group III 5w30 oil & change every 6000 miles

 

[69GTX]

Originally Posted By: StreetCreeper

Do you feel that a thicker viscosity translates to increase protection against engine wear during normal operation, or do you like it more for its ability to not burn off or leak? What about at cold start-up where I've continually read that the lions share of engine wear occurs?

While there is some wear as soon as you turn the key on, a lot more wear occurs during the warmup phase to engine oil temp of 175 deg F even with oil flow established, until the oil's add package becomes fully effective. The 5/10w oils give you plenty of fluid film thickness at startup until engine oil flow is established. The 10w may even give you more protection. The first step in monitoring your oil leakage is going up to a standard 30 grade. If it still hasn't improved you can then consider HM's, a stronger 30 grade, etc. One step at a time. The 30 grade typically has a higher HTHS over a 20 grade, giving you more protection at high temps...though with a tad more overall engine friction and minutely lower mpg than a 20 grade. Car was specced for 30 grade. A lot of vehicles with your miles are using 40 grades by now. I think you'll find less oil usage with a 5w-30 vs a 5w-20 grade synthetic.

 

[barkingspider]

Any 5 or 10w30 of your choice is what I would use. No need for HM oils

 

[901Memphis]

High Mileage 10w30, and forget about it. No reason to worry about cold starts in cali unless its really northern cali. Maxlife 10w30 flows fine around freezing temps. I suppose you might want a 5w30 this time of year just in case you get abnormal lows and want to feel warm and fuzzy.

 

[zrxkawboy]

I'd use either a 5W30 or 10W30 HM oil.

 

[jorton]

You are welcome. "Valvoline Maxlife synthetic blend 5w-20 high milage (I run this mostly" This is I see an old truck that's operated under severe conditions, been neglected and leaks oil and runs great. Run Valvoline Maxlife synthetic blend 5w-20 or 5w-30 high milage oil because "Engine runs very strong" now. Would you consider replacing the v/c seals?

 

[hemitom]

I wouldn't change a thing , your not burning much oil , for kicks switch to the valvoline 5w30 hm for a interval and see if it burns less !! bet it doesn't change much.

 

[SR5]

Castrol Magnatec 5W30 as it's what the car specs, and you are worried about start-up wear, it has an additive that clings to the metal surface to resist drain down and protect during start-up. It's producing great UOA's too. My second choice would be Valvoline MaxLife semi-synthetic in 5W30. It's a well respected oil for high mileage cars, and what you are using now but in the Toyota spec grade. But nothing wrong with M1 or Edge or PP or Pennzoil Gold or any other name brand in full synthetic or semi-synthetic. To be honest, in your climate, I would probably use a 10W30. Still a 30 grade at operational temp, and starts well down to 0F, but less volatility and more shear stable. But, it's a 90's Toyota, anything half reasonable will work fine. You are running a 20 grade in it, in Australia most people would be running GTX 15W40 in it, and it won't make a fig of difference either way. BTW Welcome !!

 

[DuckRyder]

I would run Mobil 1 5/30 HM. Why: Because it is excellent oil, M1 has never let me down and it is readily available and fairly cheap at Walmart. I would also change the leaking valve cover gaskets unless they are a monumental job.