What would you do?

[buster]

Ok, so the OCV on my car (2015 Mazda 2 2.0 with 56k miles) is worse now than it was when the original was seeping. I took it back to the dealer about a month ago and they said it's residual oil (t's not) and they won't fix it. I'm pretty sure it's the valve cover at this point and was made worse due to the fact that they botched the valve cover job and had to redo it. In doing so, the seal that fits around the OCV is now messed up. Or the VC is warped, which can happen. Either way they made it worse.

I know a very good mechanic I could take the car to and he would do the job right, or I could go to Mazda and try to have them do it. Which would you do? Part of my doesn't feel like allowing Mazda to touch my car again if they can't even properly replace a valve cover. Flat rate techs and warranty repairs ughhh. This may be a non issue to most, but for me it's unacceptable for a car that is 4.5 years old with 56k miles to have any leaks.

I believe the valve cover costs $211.

 

[OVERKILL]

I'd definitely try and have the dealer make it right, since they buggered it up.

 

[2002 Maxima SE]

At 56K miles, I would take the car to a qualified independent. I had many headaches with my local Mazda dealer from whom I bought the car. Heck, my Mazda dealer left some tool on top of my headlight before closing the hood and caused a very small crack. The headlight seeped water and the dealer would not fix it (1 month after purchasing the car). Once I found the crack and made my accusation, it got fixed quickly. Other than up-selling unnecessary services (injector cleaning) some dealers can be useless. I say this because my local Ford dealer, for the most part, has been great working on my 19 year old Taurus and prices were reasonable when compared with local independents.

 

[SatinSilver]

Talk to the service manager about the issue and they will put on of the better guys on the job. Plus there shouldn't be any charge. I'd give them another try on such an easy job.

 

[Donald]

I think you should let the Mazda dealership have another try. But talk to the service manager and explain the situation. After that you can talk to the general manager of the dealership. And the Mazda area rep.

Did they send in mail or call for a survey?

 

[Gebo]

Go to your good mechanic.

What I do is talk around and find out the best mechanic in a dealership. I then approach him about working on my cars at his home. EVERY good mechanic I have ever dealt with works on cars at his home.
This way I have a knowledgeable "Toyota, Lexus, Honda, Acura, Ford, etc" mechanic that I know does good work and it saves me money.

 

[buster]

Thanks, I'm on the fence about it. I lean towards 2002 Maxima SE's opinion though based on how Mazda has been. I'll start with Mazda again, and show the service manager the issue. I had to literally show the Mazda mechanic where the valve cover was leaking last time. I shouldn't even have to do that. I was considering getting a Mazda 6 for my next car, but the dealership service has turned me off.

If Mazda won't do it, I have a very good mechanic I will go to.

 

[Cujet]

On our Gulfstream G550 jet, the hydraulic flight control actuators, landing gear and gear door actuators, main entrance door actuator, thrust reversers, hydraulic motor-generator and much more are a constant source of leaks. Unfortunately, the skydrol hydraulic fluid is also an effective paint stripper.

So you can imagine my absolute hatred for leaks.

I can only suggest that something is wrong with the design if it's not held up for such few miles, a replacement of the cover and valve may not be an acceptable solution if this is common. Short of trying another dealership, "if" it were me, I'd try an alternative solution. First I'd try disassembly, cleaning and sealant (below) or I'd machine a part to produce an effective seal.

I'm not a fan of using silicone to repair leaks, and I don't ever do that. However, I do use polyamide aircraft fuel tank sealants to repair troublesome leaks on my personal stuff. PR-1425 B2 is a product that will seal just about anything and when applied neatly, will do a very professional job. It's stupidly expensive, but I always have some left over from various jobs. So, that's probably my first choice.

 

[Trav]

Stupid question but do they sell that seal? I am sure you can get that at a bearing and seal store.

 

[StevieC]

I'd take it to them to make it right if it's still under factory warranty or the repair warranty period. If they refuse ask for the regional manager contact information and run it up the flag pole. It's clearly leaking and they clearly didn't fix it properly.

 

[atikovi]

Originally Posted by buster
the seal that fits around the OCV is now messed up.


Can't just the seal be replaced? Is that a leak due to pressure or just gravity? Does that OCV just unbolt and pull out?

 

[MrMoody]

Are you sure it isn't the solenoid itself leaking at the top, where the electrical connector goes into the metal body? This would seem more likely to me, and would explain why they don't want to replace it at close to $300.

 

[bdcardinal]

Originally Posted by atikovi
Originally Posted by buster
the seal that fits around the OCV is now messed up.


Can't just the seal be replaced? Is that a leak due to pressure or just gravity? Does that OCV just unbolt and pull out?

PE01-10-2D5 is the p/n for the OCV seal.
PE01-10-235 is the valve cover gasket seal.

Generally Mazda would put this all on the dealer as far as assistance.

 

[maxdustington]

Originally Posted by Cujet
On our Gulfstream G550 jet, the hydraulic flight control actuators, landing gear and gear door actuators, main entrance door actuator, thrust reversers, hydraulic motor-generator and much more are a constant source of leaks. Unfortunately, the skydrol hydraulic fluid is also an effective paint stripper.

So you can imagine my absolute hatred for leaks.

I can only suggest that something is wrong with the design if it's not held up for such few miles, a replacement of the cover and valve may not be an acceptable solution if this is common. Short of trying another dealership, "if" it were me, I'd try an alternative solution. First I'd try disassembly, cleaning and sealant (below) or I'd machine a part to produce an effective seal.

I'm not a fan of using silicone to repair leaks, and I don't ever do that. However, I do use polyamide aircraft fuel tank sealants to repair troublesome leaks on my personal stuff. PR-1425 B2 is a product that will seal just about anything and when applied neatly, will do a very professional job. It's stupidly expensive, but I always have some left over from various jobs. So, that's probably my first choice.
Professional leak chaser!

 

[Linctex]

Originally Posted by Cujet

I'm not a fan of using silicone to repair leaks, and I don't ever do that. However, I do use polyamide aircraft fuel tank sealants to repair troublesome leaks on my personal stuff. PR-1425 B2 is a product that will seal just about anything and when applied neatly, will do a very professional job. It's stupidly expensive, but I always have some left over from various jobs. So, that's probably my first choice.



LOL, PR-1440-B2 for me.
I actually re-used a John Deere/Yanmar diesel engine head gasket.
A thin layer of 1440-B2 on each side and torqued her down.
Still runs perfect to this day. I pity the fool that ever has to remove that head.

 

[PimTac]

If it were me I would have a talk with the service manager. Give them one chance to make it right. Maybe they can lower the price of parts and labor as a goodwill offering.

If that doesn't work out then go to your mechanic. Can you order the valve cover online through a Mazda OEM sure like mazdaparts.org? I did check there but that part is not listed.

 

[buster]

Thanks for all the suggestions. PimTac, that's what I plan on doing. If they don't fix it, I'll just have a mechanic do it.

 

[Cujet]

Originally Posted by maxdustington
Professional leak chaser!



Exactly! I hate 'em with a passion.

 

[Cujet]

Originally Posted by Linctex

LOL, PR-1440-B2 for me.
I actually re-used a John Deere/Yanmar diesel engine head gasket.
A thin layer of 1440-B2 on each side and torqued her down.
Still runs perfect to this day. I pity the fool that ever has to remove that head.


OK, that's a first. Why did I not think of that? Completely awesome!!!!!

Thinking aloud here, I'll bet PR sealants would have solved my various turbocharged engine head gasket issues.

If I ever decide to go back into that world, I'm gluing a head on with PRC!!!!