What would you do with this 10/22 stock?

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What would you do with this modified 10/22 stock?

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I bought this stock off eBay (from Numrichs) because it looked interesting to me. I liked the look of the cheek riser and it also had somewhat of a finger groove forend. The pistol grip was also recurved some.

But, after a lot of paint stripping and sanding, it looks like a factory Ruger 10/22 stock with some plywood and filler. I'd say the guy did a fantastic job in terms of workmanship -- everything was pretty smooth and it seems done well. It's had three colors and at least as many physical coats of paint. The first color is blue. At some point after that, it was silver. Its last color is black, though the black had a very slight rubbery/plastic feel to it. It felt extremely close to CZ's "polycoat" that they put on their CZ-75s.

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He built up the cheek riser with what appears to be a 3/4" piece of plywood and some filler. He filled in the curve of the butt with plywood and he built up the right side of the pistol grip with wood filler for a bit of a palm swell. It all feels okay -- the cheek riser is a little thick, though. The height is okay, but it's so thick, it pushes my eyes off-center. I plan to, at the very least, shave some of that cheek riser off.

But I rather like the grain of the stock. I figure this must be an old stock, just guessing from the number of coats of paint it's had. Wood stock experts: what do you reckon the wood species is? 10/22 stocks have been made out of birch, beech, maple, cherry, and walnut (to my knowledge). The grain looks a little coarser than the older birch stock I recently bought, but that's really my only reference. At least half of me wants to strip all of the modifications off this stock and put a nice stain on it, regardless of the wood species, just because the grain is so attractive to me.

One idea I had is to bob the stock and cut it off after the pistol grip and turn it into a Ruger Charger-like stock, if the butt of the stock is not usable. I have an 18.5" barrel, and my OAL would still be over 26", so I think I'd be good from a legal standpoint. I wouldn't be changing the use of the gun into a pistol (something intended to be fired with one hand), and I wouldn't be using a short barrel, so I don't think it would be classified as an SBR. As long as it'd be legal, I think that'd be something interesting and fun.

It might look something like this

That would sort of be a Plan B, though, in case I start working with the butt end and find that it's really dorked up under the cheek pad.

What do you think? Any ideas for what else I could do with it? I'm considering staining it if I can take it down and get all the wood filler off. If the stock is damaged under all of this, and if it needs filler to be straight, then I'd need to put paint back on it and I've looked at fishnet options and hydro-dipping.

I bought it as a project, just to see where it would take me. And it was less than $30 to my door, so I'm not trying to recoup a large amount of money here -- just looking to experiment and learn. Any and all comments are certainly appreciated.
 
Just kidding, I'm not that stupid. That stock just doesn't look good to me. I'd put spray on bed liner if that was mine.
 
Originally Posted By: bubbatime
Go ahead and make a that charger style stock if it tickles your fancy. Or paint it the color of your choice.


Bubba, you would know if anyone does: as long as I still have a 16+" barrel (and mine is 18.5"), and as long as my OAL is still greater than 26" (and it would be), I'm 100% legal in bobbing the stock, right? I personally see some grey area in the rules about what is "intended" as a pistol or "intended" as a rifle. This would, obviously, not be something intended to be shot with one hand (a pistol). It would basically be a rifle version of a shotgun with a pistol grip -- but something intended to be shot on a bench or with a bipod.
 
Yeah as long as the overall length is over 26 inches, its fine. You could even put a pistol grip on it if it was long enough.
 
I wouldn't cut down the stock. He did a lot of work to get a good cheek weld and a grip that fit the hand better. OK, it'll never be a thing of true beauty, but have you looked at some of the lime green slabs that are on Bench rest rifles ... They are painted every color George Barris ever dreamed of
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Me, I'd test it for fit with the rifle bedded and see how it holds up to my physique, scope location, etc? If it's a good fit, I'd be thinking new finish.

To get all weather durability, I'd soak it in CPES (penetrating epoxy) until it will not accept any more. While it's tacky, after kicking off, I'd start to brush (foam brush) some Min-Wax Poly-Shades satin in the color of your choice. I'd prolly use some black-wood color. Min-Wax adheres like a rock to tacky CPES nearly equaling the old Remington catalyzed varnishes they used in the '60s.

A day later I'd wool it down with a green nylon pad and do another coat. Keep that up for three days, then start with the light sanding and top coats. By day 8 you should have a very nice finish and it'll be tougher than nails. You can add some red mahogany Min-Wax in the intervening coats to give it highlights and go to clear for the last few to give it depth.

Add a butt as thick as needed to get the right LOP and it'll be a one of a kind 10/22 stock and it'll be fitted to you
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
Me, I'd test it for fit with the rifle bedded and see how it holds up to my physique, scope location, etc? If it's a good fit, I'd be thinking new finish.


As noted in my original post, I liked the look of the stock better than the fit or feel of it. The cheek pad is much too thick, pushing my eyesight to the left of the center of the bore (I'm a right handed shooter). Perhaps the person who did this had a narrower/taller facial structure than I did. I will have to cut the thickness of the cheek pad significantly.

I may do a bit of a hybrid. I think I will restore the forend to what it originally was. The grain is beautiful (to me) up there. I will also do away with the palm swell if I can. After going back and forth many times between this and my factory birch stock, I have no preference for the palm swell on this one, and I'm hoping the wood is still good underneath (if it's not, then I'll have to figure out what to do with that).

Then, after I shape it to what I want, I may paint the cheek weld pad area a black or dark brown (like a dark leather) and then stain the rest of the gun a dark walnut or mahogany color. After the desired coats of each, I could seal the whole thing in with polyurethane or other appropriate sealer. In the end, it might look like this:

http://godagrip.com/cheek-pads.html

Looking at the LSRCP as inspiration. Mine might look similar, but my cheek pad would obviously be an integral part of the stock rather than a stick-on. I've always liked the contrast of a dark cheek pad on a wood stock for some reason.
 
I made some (very encouraging) progress tonight. The front finger grooves came off and revealed a beautiful wood grain underneath. I also removed the palm swell on the pistol grip and it, too, is perfect underneath. I think I'll keep the curved tip "cap" on the bottom of the grip, and that may be one of the accents I paint black. A tour around the stock, after a quick wet-down to raise the grain and show me where I still need to work:

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I'm pleased with how it's coming along so far.
 
If you decide to play with color, you may go solid over the offending areas/fillers and then radiate a sun-burst or flame from solid to semi-translucent to full grain exposure (Guitar Body style). I agree that is nice grain for a production wood. Alcohol based stains and an air brush do transitions well
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Yeah, I agree the cheek pad is a bit big. It'll come down to comfort level soon enough
smile.gif
 
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Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
If you decide to play with color, you may go solid over the offending areas/fillers and then radiate a sun-burst or flame from solid to semi-translucent to full grain exposure (Guitar Body style).


Do you have any example links of pics you can show of this effect? I'm not a git-awhr guy, and I'm apparently not using the right Google search terms.

Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
Yeah, I agree the cheek pad is a bit big. It'll come down to comfort level soon enough
smile.gif



The cheek pad is convex in profile, and I'm thinking that it should be either flat or even concave, to fit a facial contour. If I could get it concave to fit my face, I could really lock in a cheek weld...far more than necessary for shooting .22LR probably!
 
Basic explanation here: https://guitarkitworld.com/how-to-apply-a-sunburst-guitar-finish/

Guitars mostly use lacquer and that is not the most durable/flexible gun finish. But the process can be replicated with aniline dyes. Work progressively from light areas to darker. Light dye coat. Dries in about 10 minutes. Airbrush or detail gun next darker shade going toward the solid color area that will have no grain showing.

Typical kit (not suggesting buying, just for reference): https://www.amazon.com/Wood-Dye-Aniline-Color-Powder/dp/B00BAKWTMQ

Aniline dyes are alcohol based (for the most part) so they don't raise the grain and dry really fast. The downside is that as they dry, they change color to light muddy looking shades. As soon as you put the CPES or polyurethane on, the color jumps right out.

CPES adds a slight yellow/gold tinge to whatever you are doing, but it's bulletproof for bonding polyurethane to wood w/o it ever popping off. We did this on many boats for the brightwork, and they were many times more durable than a straight varnish job.

Please note, I have tried some other poly's and they do not go well with CPES. Min-Wax does, and it's extremely durable. Just what I know, not why it works ...
 
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