What to use for Assembly Lube ?

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I have the heads off of my GM 3.4 engine and after they are cleaned up I wondered what can I use for an assembly lube?

I really do not want to buy a specialty product since it could be years before I would use it again. Can I just put a small amount of grease on both ends of the push rods and on the valve stems? Or would motor oil be better ? What do you recommend I use when I put the heads back on?
 
Are the parts new? Gear oil would be good for new parts. If you are using the old parts motor oil will be all that is needed.
 
If yours is of overhead cam type, you shall seriously consider the purchasing of cam lube for cam/head rebuild for they have just the right kind/amount of additives to facilitate the breaking in of new cam or protect the old cam from galling during break-in.

For valve stems into guides, all you need is just ordinary motor oil.

Q.
 
use motor oil if its going to be run pretty quick assembly. if its going to be sitting for a while, then use an assembly lube. i use the royal purple stuff since i can get it fairly cheap, i also use the ARP lube when i use their studs on assembly.
 
Originally Posted By: Quest
If yours is of overhead cam type, you shall seriously consider the purchasing of cam lube for cam/head rebuild for they have just the right kind/amount of additives to facilitate the breaking in of new cam or protect the old cam from galling during break-in.

For valve stems into guides, all you need is just ordinary motor oil.

Q.


+1 on the lube. Cheap insurance to not ruin a cam.
 
If you have a new cam or lifters, go buy the right stuff!
1/2 STP and engine oil is good for general assembly, but cams have to be protected initially.
I'd prime the pump if possible before starting, and for the first oil fill, go 1/2 qt above normal.
It's like paying $20,000.00 for a Safari to Africa, and then skimping by using cheap ammo. Get the slip sauce.
 
Originally Posted By: Cressida
I really do not want to buy a specialty product since it could be years before I would use it again.


They do make small, one time use, tubes of assy. lube.
 
I think it was the 2nd head gasket I did on my 72 Datsun , that I forgot to lube the cam. Wotta terrrible noise it made 'til the oil got to it. The last valve job I did this fall, I used a qt of the Lucas stuff that foams. I bought it before I found Bitog and dint know better. The stuff is not as viscous as STP and kept draining off the cams. So I kept dowsing the valve train during the course of the job. When the engine fired for the first time , it purred.
 
Lubriplate is a phenominal product. I use that when I know the engine will sit for a long duration of time. I'll put it in the oil pump, cylinder walls, ring lands. For lifter bores I'll use motor oil. For overhead cams put the Arp grey assembly paste so it stays exactly where I put it.

If you just doing the quicky assembly, oil is all you really need. If you have the cheap white grease "lubriplate" assembly use it.For the camshaft I like to use the torco assembly lube (red colour) since it has zinc.
 
Originally Posted By: chevrofreak
Is there anything in Amsoil heavy duty synthetic grease that would make it a bad idea to use as an assembly lube?


Nahh! don't think so for these cam lubes are typically loaded to the right blend of Zddp and AW additives that would resist washout during initial run-in phase(that's when the cam lobe/rocker surface is the driest while there's no pool of oil in the pockets and/or after solvent cleaning process done to the head during partial engine servicing/overhaul), so as to allow proper mitigation/compensation, if not some form of migration of those new, phosphorus treated cam surface to break in to the rocker cam contact surface,and in the case of an already broken cam, such work can help in minimising the possiblity of galling due to improper/insufficient/non-ideal borderline lubrications during the dry phase of run-in.

You may say that luck must be on you when you or your ye ole pal mech/backyard mech or similar used gear oils, AsssTeePee or something unconventional on cam breakins and able to get away with it by claiming it was fine. Truth is, the galling may not immediately distroy your cam during the first 5 mins but reality checks that your cam life will be severely compromised in maybe 5~20,000miles time if it wasn't broken in properly to begin with.

That's why Crane Cam, Toda, HKS, OS Gaiken, etc, all had very rigid instructions RE: cam lube and breaking in procedures.

Q.
 
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