What to pick for the Foresster XT

[Thermo1223]

So I went shopping yesterday, pertinent to this site OIL SHOPPING!

All the specials in my area are for dino at the auto stores. So that won't work. I went to Walmart...

They have everything! Now I can't choose. All are jug prices.

PU 5w30 - $28
PP 5w30 - $21
AFE 0w30 - $26.50
Edge 5w30 - same as PU I think.
Syntec 5w30 - $22-23

I was just going to go with GC but I couldn't get it in qt bottles(seems increasingly hard anymore).

So taking this all in what is a man to do. Filter wise I am either buying a case of Subaru OEMs or going Napa Gold, PureOne, maybe Bosch Distance Plus.

My first OCI was going to be 5k miles just to finish off the ARX rinse a bit. I was going to sample, drain add new and then sample again at 5k. If the second round of 5k says I can go longer than I will.

My only other thought was go Redline.

Turbo EJ255 with a tune on it so it is performing outside stock design, in the end I want to hit 300AWHP and then I'll be happy.

 

[addyguy]

If you're only doing 5k go with the cheapest - PP 5W-30.

 

[Marukai]

Go with Pennzoil Ultra. I just posted a UOA with 4,000 miles on the oil with no sign of wear. I know that your motor is the turbo version, but I figure this oil would have the same excellent results.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...nt=2&page=1

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Id run a 40 in that motor like m1 0w-40 or RTS 5w-40. Even my NA engine is barely quiet enough on a 10w-30/10w-40 mix

 

[bepperb]

"If you're only doing 5k go with the cheapest - PP 5W-30."

Agreed.

 

[Thermo1223]

Originally Posted By: bepperb
"If you're only doing 5k go with the cheapest - PP 5W-30."

Agreed.


I will go longer if I can. The first 5k OCI is just to get a baseline going. The second fill will just be sampled at 5k, no drain.

 

[oggb]

Your Forester XT's engine is closely related to the EJ255 in my 06 WRX. These engines really seem to prefer thicker oils, and better yet, diesel oils. The combination of flat tappet valvetrain and a turbo really aren't kind to a lot of 30-weight oils. I've been running cheap 15w40 in the summer and 5w40 in the winter.

OEM filters or PureOne.

 

[Thermo1223]

That is why I will to go Redline if I can get it at price I like.

 

[bluesubie]

Originally Posted By: Thermo1223

PU 5w30 - $28
PP 5w30 - $21
AFE 0w30 - $26.50
Edge 5w30 - same as PU I think.
Syntec 5w30 - $22-23

My only other thought was go Redline.

Turbo EJ255 with a tune on it so it is performing outside stock design, in the end I want to hit 300AWHP and then I'll be happy.

Being that I've gone through two OEM TD04 turbo's, I would recommend Red Line from this list and would avoid anything with an Energy Conserving seal on it.

First turbo was replaced at around 65k due to excessive oil getting past the seals, and second was replaced 20k miles later due to failure. No signs from uoas, no sludge, no clogged oil pick-up screen

-Dennis

 

[webfors]

GC, TDT, or T6 are all excellent options, reasonably priced and well suited for that engine.

 

[Thermo1223]

Originally Posted By: bluesubie

Being that I've gone through two OEM TD04 turbo's, I would recommend Red Line from this list and would avoid anything with an Energy Conserving seal on it.

First turbo was replaced at around 65k due to excessive oil getting past the seals, and second was replaced 20k miles later due to failure. No signs from uoas, no sludge, no clogged oil pick-up screen

-Dennis


As you might remember from SubaruForester.org the dealer did replace mine after it started blowing out the exhaust. I am kinda worried while a turbo failure would give me an excuse to upgrade early it still is $$$.

I am out of the warranty period now so it is all me. Redline's HTHS numbers are impressive to say the least.

Hrmmmm

 

[Thermo1223]

Update:

Picked up T6 because it was the lowest cost and I didn't feel like driving all the way back to Walmart so I went to Advance.

I'll just sample this at 5K instead to see what hot summer driving will do to it. I suspect not much

 

[ethangsmith]

I work at a Subaru dealer in parts. Our dealership uses Mobil1 for our synthetic. You don't have to and we always just recommend any good quality synthetic for the turbo vehicles. I would highly recommend the Subaru filters. OEM is the best and it seems the aftermarket filters are not as well designed. Don't forget your drain plug gasket too! A hint with turbo failures- we have seen several failures for one reason or another and each time we do a turbo replacement, we replace all the banjo bolt fittings and oil lines to the turbos. If you have a turbo replaced and a failure again shortly after, it's probably because they didn're replace all the fittings and lines for the turbo.

 

[sicko]

T6 should be great. After you park, let the car idle for 20-30 seconds, to keep oil flowing and help the turbo cool down. My Subaru isn't a turbo, but I've heard helping the turbo cool down like that helps prevents turbo failures

 

[Thermo1223]

I only do that after a hard drive, the turbo is water & oil cooled so the coolant creates a thermosyphon after the car is off. It pulls heat away from it. So does coasting in gear since it uses no fuel which is what I always do anyway before getting off the highway to work. Then there is the idling on city streets before I pull in to the lot.

Funny thing the dealer who replaced the turbo never uses synthetic in any turbo car (even new) unless specifically asked for. Even then I don't think it is, it may be a blend.

 

[bluesubie]

Although SoA does now recommend a cool down. You may have seen the article from Subaru's Drive magazine:

Quote:
Driving Tips

* Do not rev the engine or accelerate past half throttle immediately after start-up. Oil requires time to heat up for full flow, and high-rpm driving with a cold engine can damage the turbocharger.
* After highway driving or high-load driving, allow the engine to cool by idling for at least 30 seconds before turning off the ignition.

And I wonder if using a Fumoto like I do prevents some of the old oil from draining since it sticks farther into the pan.
From the same article:
Quote:
OIL CHANGES
Carbon deposits produced by a turbocharged engine can accumulate at the bottom of the oil pan. When changing the oil, always drain the oil through the oil drain plug hole on the oil pan. A vacuum draining device could leave carbon deposits in the oil pan and potentially contaminate the new oil.

I do use three Fumoto blue washers on mine so it doesn't protrude as far into the pan and always run clean oil through before adding.

-Dennis