I finally got my first car and don't know which oil to use. I know it uses 5w-30. Its an automatic and it has 145k miles on it.
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What oil to use for 1999 Honda Accord?
- Thread starter Joimaiveer
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baller! I still wish I had my first car 2000 Honda Civic VP! I would have never gotten rid of it but from my lack of knowledge at that young age, it was lost, your ahead of the game if your asking.
0/5/10w-30 would work well in your car, being a honda (I'm assuming you have the 4 cylinder), any certified motor oil would work, if your not aware of what certifications.
Keep it simple, go to walmart, find the cheapest motor oil for a gasoline powered engine and use it in that weight, with a good filter which you can use for two oil changes(this is recommended by Honda)
0/5/10w-30 would work well in your car, being a honda (I'm assuming you have the 4 cylinder), any certified motor oil would work, if your not aware of what certifications.
Keep it simple, go to walmart, find the cheapest motor oil for a gasoline powered engine and use it in that weight, with a good filter which you can use for two oil changes(this is recommended by Honda)
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Originally Posted By: 01_celica_gt
baller! I still wish I had my first car 2000 Honda Civic VP! I would have never gotten rid of it but from my lack of knowledge at that young age, it was lost, your ahead of the game if your asking.
0/5/10w-30 would work well in your car, being a honda (I'm assuming you have the 4 cylinder), any certified motor oil would work, if your not aware of what certifications.
Keep it simple, go to walmart, find the cheapest motor oil for a gasoline powered engine and use it in that weight, with a good filter which you can use for two oil changes(this is recommended by Honda)
Yeah its a 4-cylinder, my cousin told me to look for high mileage oil that is non synthetic. (if that makes sense)
baller! I still wish I had my first car 2000 Honda Civic VP! I would have never gotten rid of it but from my lack of knowledge at that young age, it was lost, your ahead of the game if your asking.
0/5/10w-30 would work well in your car, being a honda (I'm assuming you have the 4 cylinder), any certified motor oil would work, if your not aware of what certifications.
Keep it simple, go to walmart, find the cheapest motor oil for a gasoline powered engine and use it in that weight, with a good filter which you can use for two oil changes(this is recommended by Honda)
Yeah its a 4-cylinder, my cousin told me to look for high mileage oil that is non synthetic. (if that makes sense)
Best: Mobil1 0w-40, car that old you can go to this slightly thicker oil for greater protection.
Good: Any "High Mileage" 5w-30 oil you see in walmart, like Valvoline MaxLife, any others, they are all certified.
Decent Value: SuperTech 5w-30 or SuperTech Full Synthetic 5w-30
Oil filter: Fram Ultra, best performance
Good: Any "High Mileage" 5w-30 oil you see in walmart, like Valvoline MaxLife, any others, they are all certified.
Decent Value: SuperTech 5w-30 or SuperTech Full Synthetic 5w-30
Oil filter: Fram Ultra, best performance
Originally Posted By: lubricatosaurus
Best: Mobil1 0w-40, car that old you can go to this slightly thicker oil for greater protection.
Good: Any "High Mileage" 5w-30 oil you see in walmart, like Valvoline MaxLife, any others, they are all certified.
Decent Value: SuperTech 5w-30 or SuperTech Full Synthetic 5w-30
Oil filter: Fram Ultra, best performance
Synthetic or non synthetic?
Best: Mobil1 0w-40, car that old you can go to this slightly thicker oil for greater protection.
Good: Any "High Mileage" 5w-30 oil you see in walmart, like Valvoline MaxLife, any others, they are all certified.
Decent Value: SuperTech 5w-30 or SuperTech Full Synthetic 5w-30
Oil filter: Fram Ultra, best performance
Synthetic or non synthetic?
Originally Posted By: Joimaiveer
Yeah its a 4-cylinder, my cousin told me to look for high mileage oil that is non synthetic. (if that makes sense)
High Mileage oils are a good choice. If you go full-synthetic, you can go longer (by about 1.5x) between oil changes. Otherwise, only difference between a non-synthetic and a full-synthetic is the basestock oil used in them, where the full synthetic will put down less deposits inside your engine, a good thing! Also, synthetics flow better cold and hold up better hot.
Yeah its a 4-cylinder, my cousin told me to look for high mileage oil that is non synthetic. (if that makes sense)
High Mileage oils are a good choice. If you go full-synthetic, you can go longer (by about 1.5x) between oil changes. Otherwise, only difference between a non-synthetic and a full-synthetic is the basestock oil used in them, where the full synthetic will put down less deposits inside your engine, a good thing! Also, synthetics flow better cold and hold up better hot.
Originally Posted By: Joimaiveer
Synthetic or non synthetic?
Full synthetic I think. Since you could go a little longer, like 50% longer than your owner's manual says to go, on full-synthetics, it actually costs about the same as going with a conventional dino oil and changing exactly according to the owner's manual.
Get that Fram Ultra, best filtering media, holds twice the gunk as most other oil filters too, silicon ADBV is important.
Synthetic or non synthetic?
Full synthetic I think. Since you could go a little longer, like 50% longer than your owner's manual says to go, on full-synthetics, it actually costs about the same as going with a conventional dino oil and changing exactly according to the owner's manual.
Get that Fram Ultra, best filtering media, holds twice the gunk as most other oil filters too, silicon ADBV is important.
Originally Posted By: lubricatosaurus
Originally Posted By: Joimaiveer
Yeah its a 4-cylinder, my cousin told me to look for high mileage oil that is non synthetic. (if that makes sense)
High Mileage oils are a good choice. If you go full-synthetic, you can go longer (by about 1.5x) between oil changes. Otherwise, only difference between a non-synthetic and a full-synthetic is the basestock oil used in them, where the full synthetic will put down less deposits inside your engine, a good thing! Also, synthetics flow better cold and hold up better hot.
Originally Posted By: lubricatosaurus
Originally Posted By: Joimaiveer
Synthetic or non synthetic?
Full synthetic I think. Since you could go a little longer, like 50% longer than your owner's manual says to go, on full-synthetics, it actually costs about the same as going with a conventional dino oil and changing exactly according to the owner's manual.
Get that Fram Ultra, best filtering media, holds twice the gunk as most other oil filters too, silicon ADBV is important.
Thanks for the help!
Originally Posted By: Joimaiveer
Yeah its a 4-cylinder, my cousin told me to look for high mileage oil that is non synthetic. (if that makes sense)
High Mileage oils are a good choice. If you go full-synthetic, you can go longer (by about 1.5x) between oil changes. Otherwise, only difference between a non-synthetic and a full-synthetic is the basestock oil used in them, where the full synthetic will put down less deposits inside your engine, a good thing! Also, synthetics flow better cold and hold up better hot.
Originally Posted By: lubricatosaurus
Originally Posted By: Joimaiveer
Synthetic or non synthetic?
Full synthetic I think. Since you could go a little longer, like 50% longer than your owner's manual says to go, on full-synthetics, it actually costs about the same as going with a conventional dino oil and changing exactly according to the owner's manual.
Get that Fram Ultra, best filtering media, holds twice the gunk as most other oil filters too, silicon ADBV is important.
Thanks for the help!
I'd guess your optimal move would be to get Walmart's Mobil1 High Mileage 5w-30 (full-synthetic) which has extra seal conditioners meant for older cars, and also has extra HTHS for thicker oil films for wear-fighting. Then change oil at 50% greater oil change intervals than what the owner's manual says to do.
Originally Posted By: lubricatosaurus
I'd guess your optimal move would be to get Walmart's Mobil1 High Mileage 5w-30 (full-synthetic) which has extra seal conditioners meant for older cars, and also has extra HTHS for thicker oil films for wear-fighting. Then change oil at 50% greater oil change intervals than what the owner's manual says to do.
Thank you for your advice!
I'd guess your optimal move would be to get Walmart's Mobil1 High Mileage 5w-30 (full-synthetic) which has extra seal conditioners meant for older cars, and also has extra HTHS for thicker oil films for wear-fighting. Then change oil at 50% greater oil change intervals than what the owner's manual says to do.
Thank you for your advice!
Don't put synthetic in it. If you do, monitor your oil level weekly. I'd use SuperTech Dino and stay with a 5k OCI - any cheap filter that fits. If it uses/leaks oil with the SuperTech, switch to MaxLife blend. 5W-30 - keeping it topped off is the most important thing you can do - oil-wise.
I think you got the oil mostly covered, but like someone else mentioned, drain and fill the transmission fluid too. Do that every periodically and it'll keep the transmission running well. I would argue that the transmission fluid is more critical than the motor oil for the longevity of your vehicle.
And make sure the timing belt was changed too!
And make sure the timing belt was changed too!
Nick1994
$100 site donor 2024
It's old thinking that you can't use synthetic in an older car. It's all a myth.
I've been running Mobil 1 (full synthetic) in the 1970 VW Beetle for the past year and it actually leaks less than it used to.
I've been running Mobil 1 (full synthetic) in the 1970 VW Beetle for the past year and it actually leaks less than it used to.
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
It's old thinking that you can't use synthetic in an older car. It's all a myth.
I've been running Mobil 1 (full synthetic) in the 1970 VW Beetle for the past year and it actually leaks less than it used to.
It's certainly not a myth, but I used to think so as well. Experience has taught me otherwise. Drive that old bug to Toronto for the winter and it might not be so leak proof.
It's old thinking that you can't use synthetic in an older car. It's all a myth.
I've been running Mobil 1 (full synthetic) in the 1970 VW Beetle for the past year and it actually leaks less than it used to.
It's certainly not a myth, but I used to think so as well. Experience has taught me otherwise. Drive that old bug to Toronto for the winter and it might not be so leak proof.
IMO, I will not overthink the motor oil for this car.
I owned a 96 Civic and runs with any oil (on sale) put in there.
Just pick any branded motor oil with that fits your budget.
140k miles in this car is still low.
The VTEC solenoid gasket/seal is known to cause leak when old and it is easy to change for civic with VTEC feature. The seal is available online from any dealership part store or local dealership.
I agree with someone who suggest to drain and fill the Transmission. Unless it changed, this car does not have the ability to do oil cooler trans flush.
I owned a 96 Civic and runs with any oil (on sale) put in there.
Just pick any branded motor oil with that fits your budget.
140k miles in this car is still low.
The VTEC solenoid gasket/seal is known to cause leak when old and it is easy to change for civic with VTEC feature. The seal is available online from any dealership part store or local dealership.
I agree with someone who suggest to drain and fill the Transmission. Unless it changed, this car does not have the ability to do oil cooler trans flush.
Originally Posted By: EdwardC
I think you got the oil mostly covered, but like someone else mentioned, drain and fill the transmission fluid too. Do that every periodically and it'll keep the transmission running well. I would argue that the transmission fluid is more critical than the motor oil for the longevity of your vehicle.
Would a drain and fill of 2.5qts ATF once a year be enough? That's how much drains out when I have it on the ramps. And would Maxlife ATF work well?
I think you got the oil mostly covered, but like someone else mentioned, drain and fill the transmission fluid too. Do that every periodically and it'll keep the transmission running well. I would argue that the transmission fluid is more critical than the motor oil for the longevity of your vehicle.
Would a drain and fill of 2.5qts ATF once a year be enough? That's how much drains out when I have it on the ramps. And would Maxlife ATF work well?
Congrats on your first car!
I would use a high mileage oil, doesn't matter if it is synthetic or not. I recommend Valvoline MaxLife Synthetic Blend in 5W-30, there's also a full synthetic MaxLife.
Other suggestions are Pennzoil High Mileage, a conventional high mileage oil. And Mobil 1 High Mileage which is a full synthetic.
I would use a high mileage oil, doesn't matter if it is synthetic or not. I recommend Valvoline MaxLife Synthetic Blend in 5W-30, there's also a full synthetic MaxLife.
Other suggestions are Pennzoil High Mileage, a conventional high mileage oil. And Mobil 1 High Mileage which is a full synthetic.
Nick1994
$100 site donor 2024
Originally Posted By: bigt61
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
It's old thinking that you can't use synthetic in an older car. It's all a myth.
I've been running Mobil 1 (full synthetic) in the 1970 VW Beetle for the past year and it actually leaks less than it used to.
It's certainly not a myth, but I used to think so as well. Experience has taught me otherwise. Drive that old bug to Toronto for the winter and it might not be so leak proof.
What does a cold winter have to do with leaks?
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
It's old thinking that you can't use synthetic in an older car. It's all a myth.
I've been running Mobil 1 (full synthetic) in the 1970 VW Beetle for the past year and it actually leaks less than it used to.
It's certainly not a myth, but I used to think so as well. Experience has taught me otherwise. Drive that old bug to Toronto for the winter and it might not be so leak proof.
What does a cold winter have to do with leaks?
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