What Oil NOT to Use?

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grbr95:

In the first two cars i bought brand new i used Valvoline. Why? Beacause at the time i liked valvoline packaging (your right about the window on the bottle, it really does help), the valvoline color scheme, and i believed their then current advertising campaign about "all top mechanics choose valvoline" and that's what the local VW dealer used as well.

Valvoline served me very well in over 225,000 miles on my second VW (I sold the first one with only 30,000 on it). Another reason, and while this may sound retared, is that my cars seem to smell better when using Valvoline. The engine, exhaust, etc...all have a certain more pleasant odor that i can't explain. Perhaps it has to do with the additives, base oil, etc. i just dont know, but there is some difference, I'm sure of it;)

To be honest, with my old VW, i changed the oil at intervals no more than 3,000 miles, More like 2,000-2,500 so likely any oil would have done a great job at protecting my engine. It did see the redline several times a week over the 11 or so years and 225,000 miles i drove it, and i used 20w-50 year-round. With Val A/C i never had any valve ticking or trouble turning the engine over in the winter. With other brands i would often get valve clatter so that also helped me stick with valvoline.

OK....I think i've convinced myself. I'm headed to the store to pick up some 10w30 valvoline a/c and change my oil this weekend;)
 
The fact that XOM makes huge profits ensures that I will continue to receive quality products from them. I say keep it up XOM. After all, they don't set the price of oil. The commodities market traders do that.
 
EXXON,,, The worlds largest oil company should know how to make OIL!! Superflo is usually cheaper than most, good as any. Personally use PZ in my S10 (what it had in it when we bought it, now has 205,000mi) Motorcraft in wife's Merc. Ford car=Ford oil!

Any major brand, the're ALL good! Wich ever is worst is still better than anything you could buy 10 years ago.

Bob
 
I ran two Ford Rangers up to 200k miles using whatever API certified oil was cheapest, usually Meijer or WalMart Tech2000 or now SuperTech. The engine ran great, never a single engine problem on either truck. Got rid of the 88 due to rust, and the 94 due to nagging electrical/emissions control problems.
 
I have used Castrol GTX, Pennzoil, Mobil Drive Clean, Mobil 1 and Quaker State. Out of those, I would never use Quaker State again. My old, late '81 Datsun B210 4 banger pinged really bad with QS...
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hominid7,
Yeah, I was kidding.. YOu and I have spoken before about Valvoine All Climate. You have had stellar results using it. Any reason why you never decided to upgrade to Maxlife?
 
grbr95: Well, i sold my old Jetta with 225,000 miles on it (engine ran just as good as the day i bought it) and the guy i sold it to (who i know) uses pennzoil and gets it changed at the JiffyLube place (cringe)....I tried to convince him he could do it himself, but he just wasn't intersted, so what can i say:)

My "new" car is a 2001 mazda 626 with the 2.5 V6 (which is an excellent engine). I've tried several oils and viscosities in it, all with decent results. While i still think valvoline is a decent oil, it seems a bit overpriced when compared to oils like Motorcraft, Exxon Superflo, etc...

Right now my mazda's got Havoline in it and despite other members rave reviews of Havoline, my car seems to be developing a ever so slight tick at startup with only 2,000 miles on the oil (Hav 5w30). At the next change i'll switch back to either Motorcraft, Valvoline , superflo or Castrol semi-syntheitc, i'm not sure which yet. Depends on what's on sale;) I dont mean to diss Havoline, it's a decent oil, i just dont think it's the best choice for my engine.

As for the high mileage formulas, while my mazda only has 42,000 miles on it i've been curious if a high mileage formula would not be benneficial every once in a while even in a "young" car to condition seals, etc... My car does not have any "leaks" but about 1/2 a quart does seem to dissapear between oil changes (3,000 miles) when i use 5w30, and doesn't use any when i use 10w30 so i think i'll stick with that viscocity from now on. The cars owners manual indicates i can use either 5w30 or 10w30 at pretty much any temp we experience here in North Texas.

I need to read up more on the high mileage formulas and see if i think a batch is right for my car. There seems to be some evidence that the HM formulations, while not meeting the starburst rating for gas mileage benefits, may offer better overall protection and help to condition seals. Thats of importance to me with my mazdas known issue with an easy-to-leak valve cover gasket.

Interestingly, one of the oils that "appeared" to do best, use not a drop, and start easiest in the rather odd 12*F cold snap we had a few months back was Exxon Superflo 10w30. It's also the least expensive oil i've used, but seems to perform very well. I've not experienced any noticable gas mileage differences between 5w30 and 10w30. While Ford seems to want me to put the thinnest oil possible in my car, my engine is actually a "mazda" engine, built in Japan, and seems to prefer the somewhat more robust 10w30.

As for full-synthetics, they may be great but i change my oil too often (and enjoy doing so) to make that really cost-effective for me.

OK, i've gotten way off topic....I'll shut up:)
 
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