What oil does anyone recommend
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Obviously many recommendations depending on how you drive and if you want synthetics or not. Driving hard-you might want to pick a 40 wt in summer. 0W-40 Mobil 1, 5W-40 Delvac 1, Amsoil 10W-40 I believe. NonSyn-Chevron, GTX, Delvac 1300, Delo 400 all in 40 wt.. If you don't drive very hard: Non-syn: Chevron or GTX- 30 wt. Syn-Mobil 1 10W-30/Amsoil 10W-30. Just a few suggestions.
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its turbo. I know it will be driven harder than a normal car might. What would I have to do to switch to synth. and what advantages are there for synth over dino?quote:
Originally posted by Al:
Obviously many recommendations depending on how you drive and if you want synthetics or not. Driving hard-you might want to pick a 40 wt in summer. 0W-40 Mobil 1, 5W-40 Delvac 1, Amsoil 10W-40 I believe. NonSyn-Chevron, GTX, Delvac 1300, Delo 400 all in 40 wt.. If you don't drive very hard: Non-syn: Chevron or GTX- 30 wt. Syn-Mobil 1 10W-30/Amsoil 10W-30. Just a few suggestions.
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Since this is a turbo, I wouldn't use anything but a synthetic. Mobil 1 in any grade except 15w50 or the German Castrol Syntec (only in 0w30).
Because of the extra heat a turbo generates, and the fact theat the turbo bearings are cooled by the engine oil, the oil is stressed more than in a NA engine. Only PAO/ester based oils can handle this heat without premature breakdown.
[ April 30, 2003, 11:59 AM: Message edited by: G-Man II ]
Because of the extra heat a turbo generates, and the fact theat the turbo bearings are cooled by the engine oil, the oil is stressed more than in a NA engine. Only PAO/ester based oils can handle this heat without premature breakdown.
[ April 30, 2003, 11:59 AM: Message edited by: G-Man II ]
1. It should be a synthetic as you have a turbo and you want your car to last a long time.
2. It should be the weight that the manufacture recomends.
3. Use the best synthetic that your pocket book will allow and change it at 5000 mi intervals.
2. It should be the weight that the manufacture recomends.
3. Use the best synthetic that your pocket book will allow and change it at 5000 mi intervals.
how do i know what will last 5000 miles? where do people get oil analysis's done? How do you interpret it as well?quote:
Originally posted by TR3-2001SE:
1. It should be a synthetic as you have a turbo and you want your car to last a long time.
2. It should be the weight that the manufacture recomends.
3. Use the best synthetic that your pocket book will allow and change it at 5000 mi intervals.
The 1.8T engine is very hard on oil for two main reasons:
1. It has turbos, so the same oil is used not only to lubricate the engine, but also to cool the turbos. Turbos get very hot. When the oil passes through the turbos, it also gets very hot and loses its protecting abilities rather quickly.
2. The oil sump capacity of the 1.8T engine is less than 4 quarts, so the additive package gets quickly used up. If there was more oil in this engine, it would last longer, but that's not the case. Thus, I'd recommend a 5K mile oil change, even with synthetics, rather than the OEM 10K change.
Based on oil analyses that I've read, the TBN depletes so much after about 6K miles in the 1.8t that the oil is no longer effective at protecting the engine. TBN = Total Base Number; it is the measurement of the reserve alkalinity of the oil's additive package. The lower the TBN the less the oil's ability to clean the system and suspend contaminants.
I find Mobil1 0w40, perhaps the best Mobil1 oil, to be a favorite among Audi 2.7t & 1.8t owners, according to posts on the Audi boards. The M1 0w30 is a good oil, too, although not quite as robust as the 0w40, IMHO. I'd stay away from the M1 5w30 for this application, and the 10W30 on up are too viscous for this application. Amsoil and Redline make equally good (some say better) oils in similar viscosities. Of course, non-synthetics are not able to long withstand the demands of the 1.8t engine.
1. It has turbos, so the same oil is used not only to lubricate the engine, but also to cool the turbos. Turbos get very hot. When the oil passes through the turbos, it also gets very hot and loses its protecting abilities rather quickly.
2. The oil sump capacity of the 1.8T engine is less than 4 quarts, so the additive package gets quickly used up. If there was more oil in this engine, it would last longer, but that's not the case. Thus, I'd recommend a 5K mile oil change, even with synthetics, rather than the OEM 10K change.
Based on oil analyses that I've read, the TBN depletes so much after about 6K miles in the 1.8t that the oil is no longer effective at protecting the engine. TBN = Total Base Number; it is the measurement of the reserve alkalinity of the oil's additive package. The lower the TBN the less the oil's ability to clean the system and suspend contaminants.
I find Mobil1 0w40, perhaps the best Mobil1 oil, to be a favorite among Audi 2.7t & 1.8t owners, according to posts on the Audi boards. The M1 0w30 is a good oil, too, although not quite as robust as the 0w40, IMHO. I'd stay away from the M1 5w30 for this application, and the 10W30 on up are too viscous for this application. Amsoil and Redline make equally good (some say better) oils in similar viscosities. Of course, non-synthetics are not able to long withstand the demands of the 1.8t engine.
To more directly answer your question, I'd change your oil with Mobil1 0W40 at 5000 miles, and every 5000 miles thereafter.
What you might want to try is the Castrol 0W-30 in red. That is the one that is imported from Germany. It looks like a realy good oil. Once I put 10,000k on mine I'm going to send it out for analysis.
You should do the same on your 1.8T but only on the second interval.
Just for humor put it they way it only makes sence to use German made oil on a German made engine
You should do the same on your 1.8T but only on the second interval.
Just for humor put it they way it only makes sence to use German made oil on a German made engine
I came up with the 5000 mile change after reviews of hundreds of Oil analysis on this site. Most sythetics can go longer but this is a very conservative change and I am a very conservative person. I keep my cars for many years. I have a 1960 Triumph TR3 driven since 1974 and a 1988 Toyota Cressida with 250,000 miles and a 2001 Miata with 27,000 miles.
[ April 30, 2003, 03:38 PM: Message edited by: TR3-2001SE ]
[ April 30, 2003, 03:38 PM: Message edited by: TR3-2001SE ]
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If you click on our site supporters link at the top of the forum, you can find out the contact info for Blackstone, and order their Terry Dyson package, which gets you a personal interpretation by him when the results are in, and he will answer any specific questions you have on your oil analysis report.quote:
Originally posted by onebadz:
how do i know what will last 5000 miles? where do people get oil analysis's done? How do you interpret it as well?quote:
Originally posted by TR3-2001SE:
1. It should be a synthetic as you have a turbo and you want your car to last a long time.
2. It should be the weight that the manufacture recomends.
3. Use the best synthetic that your pocket book will allow and change it at 5000 mi intervals.
And for something out of the ordinary Motul Synergie 6100 5W40, 8100 X-cess 5W40 or top of the pile 8100 Ester E-Tech 0W40, all 100% synthetic.
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