what mileage from aftermarket brakes vs toyota oem

[edwardh1]

I have owned 2 toyotas, a 94 camry and a 04 highlander, the 94 went over 100k miles in mixed driving on the (very thick) original pad and the 04 has 85k miles on the original pads now but is almost worn out.
my mechanic is a NAPA guy and uses bendix pads which he put on my maxima and the wear rate on the bendix pads looks like maybe they will wear out at 35k miles - which is not near as good as the toyota pads.
do most aftermarket pads wear out fast?in the 70s and 80s the gm originals were poor in my opinion and the replacements were even worse. 30k was good on front pads.
my mechanic is 5 miles froma toyota dealer, why wont he use their pads? napa incentives? he has bought some other oem parts like nissan coil packs after the napa coil packs set off the check engine light.

 

[Hokiefyd]

I wouldn't say that aftermarket pads as a rule wear out faster than OEM pads. In some cases, it's the other way around. Chrysler minivans, until recently, are noted to have extremely dusty and fast-wearing OEM pads.

The Toyota pads are high quality ceramic pads. I've had the best service from these types of brake pads. The OEM pads on our Acura MDX still had probably a third of their life when I replaced them last year. And I replaced them with new OEM pads.

I'm a firm believer in sticking with OEM parts if the OEM parts have served you well.

 

[JHZR2]

Could be the design. A Maxima likely has a higher performance braking system that uses more aggressive pads.

I'd run bendix CT-3 without hesitation if you can find them for your toyotas.

Probably he wont use toyota parts because profit margin is better on the Napa stuff. Doesnt mean it is bad if it is name brand quality stuff like the ct-3.

 

[HerrStig]

Toyota OEM pads seem to last and last but have "that Toyota markup". On the other hand, EBC pads have a better feel and a lower price. EBC, and other makes, have various grades for different applications. You can't generalize.

 

[bepperb]

In my experience on our 04 the Monroe Ceramics will last about as long as the OEM pads which I replaced a bit early at 70,000 miles.

If you want the OEM pads buy them and have him put them on, but I don't see the advantage. In fact on your 04 the OEM pads may have been replaced as part of a TSB for poor performance. IIRC the "bad" pads were green backed.

 

[SMB]

I had a set of Duralast Gold ceramic pads from AZ on my 97 Camry 4 cyl. I sold the car after 35K miles and the pads looked like new.

Currently I have a set of Friction Masters Ceramic pads on my current car, 96 I30. I drove 15K miles since then and they too look like new.

I personally never tried OEM pads but these brands have served me well so far.

 

[Doog]

I have several Toyotas...always use OEM pads and have never gotten less than 60,000 miles out of a set. My wife gets over 70,000.

 

[edwardh1]

Originally Posted By: Doog
I have several Toyotas...always use OEM pads and have never gotten less than 60,000 miles out of a set. My wife gets over 70,000.


who installs them or do u do it?

 

[artificialist]

Sometimes you can buy "Beck/Arnley" brake pads from CarQuest or Autopart International, and they are really pads from an OEM supplier and discounted below dealer price.

And yes, I deal with numerous Toyota models that get 60,000 miles or more from the OEM pads.

 

[SteveSRT8]

Our Savana 3500's get over 100k miles from all 4 pads!

And they weigh as much as 3 Corollas.

 

[MarkM66]

Mileage has nothing to do with brake wear.

 

[edwardh1]

Mileage has nothing to do with brake wear. [/quote


but it does have a lot to do with how often you spend money on brakes.

 

[cutter]

Originally Posted By: edwardh1

Mileage has nothing to do with brake wear. [/quote


but it does have a lot to do with how often you spend money on brakes.



The guy who autocrosses or the person who doesn't understand to ease up to a red light, will go through brakes quicker than a guy like... me, who's real easy on the brakes (mpg'chiever) at the same number of miles.

 

[wiswind]

When I look up front brake pads for my Toyota on the Rockauto website, the prices start at $11.67 (not counting the closeout ones @ $6.30) for a set and go up to $46.79

I have Akebono "ProACT" on mine.
Even within a brand name......you need to read which one you are getting.
There is economy, mid, and premium within many brands.
This is also true within type....there are cheap Ceramic pads and there are premium Ceramic pads.

The Rockauto website usually lists what type (semi-metalic, ceramic) came on the vehicle originally.

 

[edwardh1]

Originally Posted By: wiswind
When I look up front brake pads for my Toyota on the Rockauto website, the prices start at $11.67 (not counting the closeout ones @ $6.30) for a set and go up to $46.79

I have Akebono "ProACT" on mine.
Even within a brand name......you need to read which one you are getting.
There is economy, mid, and premium within many brands.
This is also true within type....there are cheap Ceramic pads and there are premium Ceramic pads.

I think those are OEM level?

The Rockauto website usually lists what type (semi-metalic, ceramic) came on the vehicle originally.

 

[edwardh1]

bendix has a confusing choice of brake pads
cq
ct3
fm
t12
and global
global is the cheapest my mechanic will not use.

whats the difference between the CQ and the ct3?
anyone know? here is what bendix told me
"The CQ Ceramic is our most premium formula option it is on the same level as a CT-3 however for your Highlander a CQ is best suited for your vehicle specifications."
what does that mean??
they also said in an e mail ct3 was a platinum box product (box says longest pad life) whereas cq is only a "gold box" which conflicts with what they said above (cq being the most premium) !

 

[Tones]

I like the OE pads for my Toyota, but this last time I tried the ATE pads. I tried them on my Volvo as well. I think I bought them at Rock Auto. Very similar to the OE feel, slightly better at dust, about the same life, at about half the cost. I recommend them and intend to use them in the future. If your using them for your daily driver and don't need a "performance" pad, they fit the bill.

 

[ChrisW]

Personally, I wouldn't mind if pads wear at 30k, you let a set go to 60k or more and that is that much longer that things like caliper pins, slides, and brake fluid go unchecked and unserviced. 30k is roughly 15k/yr so two years service interval on brakes is good in my books, especially the brake fluid.

I have run Bendix CT3 pads on the past two cars I've driven, and they are just about the pad I've been looking for. I used to run Hawk HP+ on my now retired civic, and I loved the initial bite of the pads, and when they were warm did they bite like no other. But with such an aggressive pad also came a bunch of squeaking and groaning and the dust was horrendous on the HP+. I've ran HPS before but I don't care for the initial bite on the HPS. The CT3 have better initial bite than the HPS for me, far less dust and zero noise. If I didn't mind the noise and dust (and increased rotor wear), I'd run HP+ on my now '09 Mazda6.

My brother runs the Stoptech Street Performance Pads and swears by them for a daily driven pad. I'd consider these to be slightly more aggressive than the Bendix CT3.

If I were to chose an order (and certainly if they were made for the application I'd be working on) I'd chose a new set of 'daily' pads in this order (least aggressive to most aggressive):
Centric PosiQuiet Semi-metallic (the semi-metallic have better bite and seem to have better fade resistance than the ceramics)
Bendix CT3
Stoptech Street Performance
I always try and suggest the CT3 pad to my friends if they are made in the application.
If I were racing the vehicle autocross/HPDE or otherwise, I'd absolutely consider swapping pads for the event. There really isn't such a thing as a dual purpose pad imo.

 

[edwardh1]

Originally Posted By: ChrisW
Personally, I wouldn't mind if pads wear at 30k, you let a set go to 60k or more and that is that much longer that things like caliper pins, slides, and brake fluid go unchecked and unserviced. 30k is roughly 15k/yr so two years service interval on brakes is good in my books, especially the brake fluid.

I have run Bendix CT3 pads on the past two cars I've driven, and they are just about the pad I've been looking for. I used to run Hawk HP+ on my now retired civic, and I loved the initial bite of the pads, and when they were warm did they bite like no other. But with such an aggressive pad also came a bunch of squeaking and groaning and the dust was horrendous on the HP+. I've ran HPS before but I don't care for the initial bite on the HPS. The CT3 have better initial bite than the HPS for me, far less dust and zero noise. If I didn't mind the noise and dust (and increased rotor wear), I'd run HP+ on my now '09 Mazda6.

My brother runs the Stoptech Street Performance Pads and swears by them for a daily driven pad. I'd consider these to be slightly more aggressive than the Bendix CT3.

If I were to chose an order (and certainly if they were made for the application I'd be working on) I'd chose a new set of 'daily' pads in this order (least aggressive to most aggressive):
Centric PosiQuiet Semi-metallic (the semi-metallic have better bite and seem to have better fade resistance than the ceramics)
Bendix CT3
Stoptech Street Performance
I always try and suggest the CT3 pad to my friends if they are made in the application.
If I were racing the vehicle autocross/HPDE or otherwise, I'd absolutely consider swapping pads for the event. There really isn't such a thing as a dual purpose pad imo.

========
thanks!
unless u do it yourself the downside of 30 k pad wearout is that the mechanics get a shot at selling u new parts rotors etc etc.
Thats what I dont like