After I finish with doing my auto-rx treatment I want to switch to a synthetic oil, I've been thinking about Amsoil but I really want to be able to just go to the store and pick it up instead of waiting to go to a dealer or order it. So what off the shelf synthetic do you think would be good for my 88 Ford Bronco II 2.9L with 45k on it?
What is the best off the shelf synthetic?
- Thread starter bigwillie
- Start date
- Status
an 88 Bronco with only 45K on it?? That's awesome! Mobil1 Extended Peformance(EP) is readily avaliable just about anywhere. I'm running 10w30EP in my Ranger 2.5L right now and while I'm not very happy with it as far as noise wise, your BroncoII might think so otherwise. Also, if you have an Advance Auto Parts around or any Racing store, you can pick up some Redline. Redline does cost alittle more than M1 at about $7-8/qt vs $5 for M1. I would go with 10w30 of either or brand and a Motorcraft filter,,,,,AR
[ June 24, 2005, 03:29 PM: Message edited by: Airborne Ranger ]
[ June 24, 2005, 03:29 PM: Message edited by: Airborne Ranger ]
For true synthetic "off-the-shelf" oils, I like M1 & GC.
Valvoline Maxlife Synthetic 5W-30 gets my vote.
Although I'm convinced now more than ever, that they are all good when changed out @ 5,000-6,000 oci's.
So just pick one for any number of your own personal reasons (you like the race car driver, pretty bottle, your great grandpa used it, ect...).
Just be sensible with the oci's and follow your owners manual for viscosity and you really can't go wrong!
And the words "TRUE", "FULL", "III" & "IV" are WAYYYY over used on this forum....If it works.......IT WORKS!!!
My .02 Darryl
Although I'm convinced now more than ever, that they are all good when changed out @ 5,000-6,000 oci's.
So just pick one for any number of your own personal reasons (you like the race car driver, pretty bottle, your great grandpa used it, ect...).
Just be sensible with the oci's and follow your owners manual for viscosity and you really can't go wrong!
And the words "TRUE", "FULL", "III" & "IV" are WAYYYY over used on this forum....If it works.......IT WORKS!!!
My .02 Darryl
GC is no longer in production right?
Personally, I haven't been able to find Delvac1 or M1T&SUV anywhere here locally
Personally, I haven't been able to find Delvac1 or M1T&SUV anywhere here locally
The green GC that we all know and love is out of production, and has been replaced with a gold formulation...still made in Germany. But, the jury is still out as to how it compares to the green. Only time and UOA's will tell. For now, I'm stocking up on as much green GC as I can find.
Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
Delvac1
M-1 T&SUV
Amsoil
Pennzoil Platinum
Valvoline Maxlife Synthetic
Castrol Syntec
Perhaps add Schaeffer & Red Line. I never used them -- don't really know. It all depends on how long you're keeping it in the crankcase... you didn't mention that. For 5-6K-ballpark miles intervals, Auto Trend (Citgo Meijers), Rotella 5W-40 and Super Tech synthetics are three very serviceable syn oils.
M-1 T&SUV
Amsoil
Pennzoil Platinum
Valvoline Maxlife Synthetic
Castrol Syntec
Perhaps add Schaeffer & Red Line. I never used them -- don't really know. It all depends on how long you're keeping it in the crankcase... you didn't mention that. For 5-6K-ballpark miles intervals, Auto Trend (Citgo Meijers), Rotella 5W-40 and Super Tech synthetics are three very serviceable syn oils.
I would like to be able to keep the oil in it for 5k minimum but would really like to be able to use one for 10K or 15k.
Today's synthetics, 10-15K OCI isn't much of an issue. What kind of driving style do you do?? If you do alot of in town driving such as stop and go, small trips and repeated start ups, 10K might even be a bit much to ask from a synthetic. Expect to drain the oil @5-7K miles. This way the oil doesn't have a chance to get to operating temprature and can't burn off all excess moisture.
However, if you do alot of highway driving for at least 10 miles, then 10-15K OCI is no problem. Bottom line, there's alot of variables that will determine a proper OCI for your vehicle. TO even further help your oil and keeping the Bronco bucking, consider using the Auto-rx maintence dose or the Lube Control oil additive. www.lubecontrol.com I personally use LC to help keep the oil and engine clean as possible. Hope this helps,,,,AR
If you are looking for a good over-the-counter synthetic....M1 or Pennzoil Platinum would be good choices. I like the way that Pennzoil has positioned their new Platinum product with emphasis on valve train protection.
If Pennzoil Platinum is indeed a blend of Group III, Group IV and Ester (Group V) it may have some unique properties vs. a straight PAO. It will be interesting to see some UOAs from this oil. Pennzoil makes good products and it is hard to argue against their track record.
I don't see why you couldn't go between 5-10K with any of these products. Of course, you probably want to run a short initial OCI.
Keep us posted on what you decide. My roommate had an older Ford Bronco II in college. We regularly abused it in snow, mud and off-road riding...but it never let us down. He still has it parked on his Dad's farm with over 250K on it. They use it when the weather gets bad.
If Pennzoil Platinum is indeed a blend of Group III, Group IV and Ester (Group V) it may have some unique properties vs. a straight PAO. It will be interesting to see some UOAs from this oil. Pennzoil makes good products and it is hard to argue against their track record.
I don't see why you couldn't go between 5-10K with any of these products. Of course, you probably want to run a short initial OCI.
Keep us posted on what you decide. My roommate had an older Ford Bronco II in college. We regularly abused it in snow, mud and off-road riding...but it never let us down. He still has it parked on his Dad's farm with over 250K on it. They use it when the weather gets bad.
blazerLT I want to use a full synthetic not group 3.
bigwillie:
If you saw test results that proved a "Group 3 oil posing as synthetics when they really aren't" oil, beat a "TRUE/FULL" group 4 synthetic oil, would you still want to only "use a full synthetic not group 3" oil???
Just curious as to your "full/real/true" group 4 oil demands when a good group 3 oil can and in most cases does protect equally as well??
Darryl
If you saw test results that proved a "Group 3 oil posing as synthetics when they really aren't" oil, beat a "TRUE/FULL" group 4 synthetic oil, would you still want to only "use a full synthetic not group 3" oil???
Just curious as to your "full/real/true" group 4 oil demands when a good group 3 oil can and in most cases does protect equally as well??
Darryl
If you saw test results that proved a "Group 3 oil posing as a synthetics when they really aren't" oil, beat a "TRUE/FULL" group 4 synthetic oil, would you still want to only "use a full synthetic not group 3" oil???
Just curious as to your "full/real/true" group 4 oil demands when a good group 3 oil can and in most cases does equally as well??
Darryl
I did not see the test results about that. And if I did and I knew what kind of oil it was I wouldn't mind using it. I'm not totally attached to using a group 4 oil, so if you can recommend a good group 3 oil please do and i might consider using it.
Just curious as to your "full/real/true" group 4 oil demands when a good group 3 oil can and in most cases does equally as well??
Darryl
I did not see the test results about that. And if I did and I knew what kind of oil it was I wouldn't mind using it. I'm not totally attached to using a group 4 oil, so if you can recommend a good group 3 oil please do and i might consider using it.
Delvac 1, hands down....followed by the GC/0w-30 and then probably the M1, 10w-30/EP stuff and the Castrol 5w-50 in that order....I think you'll find the 5w-50 outperforms just about any 0w-40.
For Group III, I'd say the XHVI, Shell basestocks that Castrol (and probably Amsoil in their XL line) are using.
For Group III, I'd say the XHVI, Shell basestocks that Castrol (and probably Amsoil in their XL line) are using.
I for one am not willing to pay full-inflated price for group III oil. That's reason enough not to use a GIII syn. If they were priced where they should be ($2-3) then I'd have no problem. Extending that logic, I would use Shell Rotella T 5W-40 phony syn.
Regarding your Bronco II, I think the best commonly available oil on the market is the Mobil 1 Truck and SUV oil.
Regarding your Bronco II, I think the best commonly available oil on the market is the Mobil 1 Truck and SUV oil.
Opps! Ted beat me to it. Doh!!!
HEV,
I see more consistently impressive UOA's from the Castrol XHVI basestocks and their (Lubrizol?) additive chemistry than I do from the PAO based Mobil 1, with their "Infineum" add pack.
BTW, the 5w-50 Syntec is a PAO/GP III/Ester blended basestock and it works very well....I'd certainly choose it over a well know 0w-40...
The HT/HS of the 5w-50 is up around 4.7 Cp @ 100C, so even if it shears by 10%-15%, it's still much thicker than any xw-30 grade.
I see more consistently impressive UOA's from the Castrol XHVI basestocks and their (Lubrizol?) additive chemistry than I do from the PAO based Mobil 1, with their "Infineum" add pack.
BTW, the 5w-50 Syntec is a PAO/GP III/Ester blended basestock and it works very well....I'd certainly choose it over a well know 0w-40...
The HT/HS of the 5w-50 is up around 4.7 Cp @ 100C, so even if it shears by 10%-15%, it's still much thicker than any xw-30 grade.
Paying too much for a group 3 oil is usually the main argument that people have.
What if there was a group 1 oil that was proven to out perform every oil in existance by every lab in existance, and they charged the same as mobil did for their "full/true" M1 oil.
Would you care about the price of it then? Or would you pay whatever they asked for the proven best oil out there, even if it's a group 1 oil??
And Mobil 1 lovers:
I hear the "paying too much for a group 3 oil" and "we are a group 4 full synthetic oil" argument out of you guys all the time.
But, when ever someone says that "Mobil 1 made my engine louder" you guys always say "Well thats just what happens when you use M1, and even though it's louder/noisier, its a group 4 oil and it HAS to be protecting better".
Or what about, "M1 oil in my engine showed high iron levels, should I be concerned"? And you guys always say, "Hey that's just what happens when you use a REAL/FULL group 4 superior oil!"
M1 users, flame suit on!
Darryl
What if there was a group 1 oil that was proven to out perform every oil in existance by every lab in existance, and they charged the same as mobil did for their "full/true" M1 oil.
Would you care about the price of it then? Or would you pay whatever they asked for the proven best oil out there, even if it's a group 1 oil??
And Mobil 1 lovers:
I hear the "paying too much for a group 3 oil" and "we are a group 4 full synthetic oil" argument out of you guys all the time.
But, when ever someone says that "Mobil 1 made my engine louder" you guys always say "Well thats just what happens when you use M1, and even though it's louder/noisier, its a group 4 oil and it HAS to be protecting better".
Or what about, "M1 oil in my engine showed high iron levels, should I be concerned"? And you guys always say, "Hey that's just what happens when you use a REAL/FULL group 4 superior oil!"
M1 users, flame suit on!
Darryl
- Status
Similar threads
