What is most 'Turkey' oil?
- Thread starter Mystic
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Valvoline doesn't seem to be very impressive given its price, and compared to other conventionals. The GIII's don't seem to be very impressive given the cost.
Patman
Staff member
In Canada, when we're referring to a crappy oil, we always mention Nugold, which is Canadian Tire's bottom feeder oil. Someone else's used motor oil probably protects better than this stuff.
Hmm. I figured this thread was about what to baste your turkey in. I was wondering who'd recommend German Castrol...
If I remember correctly Canadian Tire's Nugold is SL/GF-3 certified.
There is a price for every customer.
Some people want the cheapest $0.89/litre, while others will pay $2.29 for the exact same oil in a different container.
Who is the turkey now?
There is a price for every customer.
Some people want the cheapest $0.89/litre, while others will pay $2.29 for the exact same oil in a different container.
Who is the turkey now?
When I first saw this, I thought you were going to ask what it the best oil to FRY a turkey in (for thanksgiving). I was ready to jump in and suggest PEANUT.
Rant mode: ON
With the current OEM standardization to API "SL"/ILSAC "GF-3 motor oils and their associated passing of stringent testing, it mystifies me why a rational person would refer to ANY motor oil meeting those qualifications as "turkey" oil. I know, the mantra, "Those are just minimal standards and I want something better in my engine!" is the typical response. Fine. It's your money, so, go for it. But, before anyone extolls the likes of the Mobil 1 hype of engines running 1,000,000 miles on a closed track without exceeding new bearing and ring/cylinder clearances, consider that straight dino juice run in the same conditions - not allowing the engine to cool down, maintaining a set speed, and shutting down or stopping just long enough to allow a driver change and to change the oil at its particular advised change interval, would in all probablilty allow for 1,000,000 miles of operation, too. Whether the dino juice in that scenario would show the same wear rate after 1,000,000 miles is immaterial - realistically how many people actually put 1,000,000 miles on their cars? How many people actually drive their cars under those ideal conditions? (Even the Yahoo who put over 1,000,000 miles on his Volvo was on his third engine at that point, proving routine driving takes its toll.) So, if those "SL"/"GF-3" motor oils are generally good enough for warranty purposose, then, that means they're really, good enough. For specialty premium engines, racing, or other heavy-duty applications that call for hot-shot synthetics, it's obviously a different matter.
Rant mode: OFF
With the current OEM standardization to API "SL"/ILSAC "GF-3 motor oils and their associated passing of stringent testing, it mystifies me why a rational person would refer to ANY motor oil meeting those qualifications as "turkey" oil. I know, the mantra, "Those are just minimal standards and I want something better in my engine!" is the typical response. Fine. It's your money, so, go for it. But, before anyone extolls the likes of the Mobil 1 hype of engines running 1,000,000 miles on a closed track without exceeding new bearing and ring/cylinder clearances, consider that straight dino juice run in the same conditions - not allowing the engine to cool down, maintaining a set speed, and shutting down or stopping just long enough to allow a driver change and to change the oil at its particular advised change interval, would in all probablilty allow for 1,000,000 miles of operation, too. Whether the dino juice in that scenario would show the same wear rate after 1,000,000 miles is immaterial - realistically how many people actually put 1,000,000 miles on their cars? How many people actually drive their cars under those ideal conditions? (Even the Yahoo who put over 1,000,000 miles on his Volvo was on his third engine at that point, proving routine driving takes its toll.) So, if those "SL"/"GF-3" motor oils are generally good enough for warranty purposose, then, that means they're really, good enough. For specialty premium engines, racing, or other heavy-duty applications that call for hot-shot synthetics, it's obviously a different matter.
Rant mode: OFF
RayH;
I concur on all...
What possible incentive do Pennzoil, Mobil, Valvoline, Castrol et. al. have to exceed the SL standard? They could (and probably do) farm the money that would take into advertising that says they are better than the standard. Which is funny because they still recommend draining the stuff out at 3000 miles or 3 months. "Cheap insurance" as the standards and prices go up...
I think the important thing is to be confident that the oil you are using actually meets the API SL standards. I'm banking on the hope that "big oil" companies would have good quality control in that regard (reputation to protect).
That's the only thing that stops me from buying the generic <$1 oil...though they probably are just as likely to meet the SL as the big boys.
I concur on all...
What possible incentive do Pennzoil, Mobil, Valvoline, Castrol et. al. have to exceed the SL standard? They could (and probably do) farm the money that would take into advertising that says they are better than the standard. Which is funny because they still recommend draining the stuff out at 3000 miles or 3 months. "Cheap insurance" as the standards and prices go up...
I think the important thing is to be confident that the oil you are using actually meets the API SL standards. I'm banking on the hope that "big oil" companies would have good quality control in that regard (reputation to protect).
That's the only thing that stops me from buying the generic <$1 oil...though they probably are just as likely to meet the SL as the big boys.
Patman
Staff member
Don't forget, there are a good number of oils who fail to even meet the SL standards, even if it's printed on the bottle. I know someone here must still have the link to the test which showed how many off the shelf oils that were tested at random ended up failing to meet the minimum requirements.
I saw some off-brand oils at Walmart (and they have these in many other stores). One was rated SF and said on the back for use in 1988 and older vehicles. Then there are the really cheap SA/SB oils that say not suitable for engines made since sometime in the 1930s--these are the "turkey oils" that folks with little money pour into their oil burners every 100 miles at around 70 cents a quart.
As for good oils, Chevron is supposed to be all made from Group II and better base oils. I believe it too, as they were doing the Group II base oils long before any other U.S. companies and even now other companies are licensing Chevron's technology. Also Havoline (which is now part of Chevron/Texaco) looks good. It said right on the back of the Havoline can that it contains Group II base oils. As for Valvoline, I am not impressed with there basic oil, "All Climate," which sells for $1.62 at Walmart, when the much more impressive Chevron basic oil, "Supreme" is only $1.08 at Walmart. Guess I should switch over from the Valvoline Maxlife I recently began using ($1.97 at Walmart). I am impressed that Valvoline Durablend (had used for several years) and Maxlife are pretty good, but costly.
[ November 29, 2003, 12:28 AM: Message edited by: TallPaul ]
As for good oils, Chevron is supposed to be all made from Group II and better base oils. I believe it too, as they were doing the Group II base oils long before any other U.S. companies and even now other companies are licensing Chevron's technology. Also Havoline (which is now part of Chevron/Texaco) looks good. It said right on the back of the Havoline can that it contains Group II base oils. As for Valvoline, I am not impressed with there basic oil, "All Climate," which sells for $1.62 at Walmart, when the much more impressive Chevron basic oil, "Supreme" is only $1.08 at Walmart. Guess I should switch over from the Valvoline Maxlife I recently began using ($1.97 at Walmart). I am impressed that Valvoline Durablend (had used for several years) and Maxlife are pretty good, but costly.
[ November 29, 2003, 12:28 AM: Message edited by: TallPaul ]
Based on VOA and UOA testing at this web site, there IS a difference in SL rated oil. There is a considerable distance between oils that might be the best (Chevron and Pennzoil, for example) and the oils at the bottom. The oils at the bottom might be okay for 2000-3000 miles (at a price of more wear). The oils at the top (without even considering the synthetics) might be good for 5000 miles. And some of the oils at the bottom are more expensive then the oils at the top. Go figure.
My local supermarket sells Saxon brand oil. They stock it in several viscosities incl 30W and 40W.
Nothing like paying $1.49 for a SF oil to prove its a turkey. Especially since this store also stocks Wolf's Head Oil which is SL rated and about the same price.
Nothing like paying $1.49 for a SF oil to prove its a turkey. Especially since this store also stocks Wolf's Head Oil which is SL rated and about the same price.
Patman
Staff member
Gas stations always overcharge for things, since they know people will buy it at any price if they really need it in a pinch. One Esso station near my house sells Mobil 1 for $10 a liter (Walmart sells it for $7) and they sell washer fluid for $4 a jug (you can find it for 99 cents quite often up here)
My local Carquest gets $3.21 a qt for any dino name brand oil.
I dont buy oil there. They have Wix filters at a decient price though.
Yeah, on that basis, there are, indeed, "Turkey" oils. At the station where I usually get gas, the owner sells some off-brand "SL" oil for $2.79/qt. (Pennzoil, too, but at $3.89/qt.) These are "SL" dino juice oils. They're both "Turkeys" - not from any lack of quality that I can confirm, but simply because the station owner ought to be arrested, charged, prosecuted, and sentenceed to a maximum security federal prison at hard labor on bread and water for the rest of her natural life for price gouging. Ironically she usually posts the lowest price in town for all three grades of ARCO gas.
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????? I disagree. I use it in all my vehicles (GM, Toyota, Ford), and never have had a problem with it. Most are high mileage, and I never have to add any oil between oil changes at 5,000 mi.
To me a "Turkey" oil is any oil that is API SA or SB or for that matter any that doesn't at least meet API SJ. Why would anyone buy an API SA motor oil with no additives and put it in a modern car when you can pay 20 or 30 cents more for a quart of API SL motor oil?
[ December 01, 2003, 01:32 AM: Message edited by: Sin City ]
[ December 01, 2003, 01:32 AM: Message edited by: Sin City ]
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