What grease do you use for your travel trailer axles? 3500# EZ Lube Dexter's

[64bawagon]

If the bearings are properly packed when serviced there is no need to add grease. The EZ lube was developed by Dexter for boat trailer axles in order to push any moisture out of the hub after submersion. Somehow they found their way into the RV market and now we have dealers using it as a replacement for repacking. Its easy to blow the seals out and overgrease the hubs causing them to run hotter. My last 3 trailers all had the seals blown out by an overzealous grease gun before I bought them.
Dexter recommends a #2 Lithium based EP/high temp grease. Mystic JT6 and Lucas Red N Tacky are very popular and fit the Dexter specs.

 

[RDMgr]

I am by no means an expert, and would welcome comments from someone like Molakule, but here's what I do know ...

There are soap bases and other chemicals in greases that essentially give the grease it's viscous form and performance effects. Some of these are not compatible with others, and can cause separation of the base ending up in a degradation of the grease to the point where it can loose it's desired properties. I cannot comment past that, because I'm not a chemist.

So if one intends to take the wheel bearing completely apart, wash it all out, and install a new grease, then I'd say you can choose any grease you want. But if you intend to just "top off" the grease with a grease gun, then I'd recommend finding out what's in the bearing now, and only using a compatible lube. (Not needing to be the same brand, but the same soap base).

Where low-load and low-rpm applications exist, the grease differences may not matter (hinge pins, low frequency sliding contact, etc). But in high-load, high rpm (wheel bearings) applications, it could make a big difference; you could end up having a combination of greases that essentially break down and allows bearing failure at an inopportune time while traveling.

If you want to stick with OEM, then you'll have to call and ask what specific lube is being used, and then research it's base and soap properties.

Compatibility chart:
https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/1865/grease-compatibility

Compatibility charts usually refer to thickener compatibility only. Often, they are not consistent and can actually be wrong. There are other considerations. Base oil compatibility is important but is usually not a concern with standard greases available at a parts store. What’s more important is additive compatibility. This can vary between brands. Combining incompatible additives can result in a loss of performance properties such as rust or corrosion protection or load carrying.

The safest approach is to use the same grease that’s already in the unit. If changing grease, use the same thickener, purge and relube frequently until you’re confident that the old grease is purged or to clean and relube the unit.

 

[spasm3]

If the bearings are properly packed when serviced there is no need to add grease. The EZ lube was developed by Dexter for boat trailer axles in order to push any moisture out of the hub after submersion. Somehow they found their way into the RV market and now we have dealers using it as a replacement for repacking. Its easy to blow the seals out and overgrease the hubs causing them to run hotter. My last 3 trailers all had the seals blown out by an overzealous grease gun before I bought them.
Dexter recommends a #2 Lithium based EP/high temp grease. Mystic JT6 and Lucas Red N Tacky are very popular and fit the Dexter specs.

Yes no power grease guns on these. I use a hand pump grease gun, and even pump slowly, while spinning the raised wheel.

M1 seems to work well, but it still leaks out of everything, including my grease gun. I'm going to valvoline syn next.

 

[tnt_motorsports]

I repacked my travel trailer bearings recently. I had 2 with some minor leakage and 2 just fine. Not a significant amount.

I repacked the bearings replaced the seals and then pumped a few squirts of grease in for good measure. I switched from Lucas red n tacky to Mystik red this time as well.

Just my $0.02

 

[ctechbob]

Yes no power grease guns on these. I use a hand pump grease gun, and even pump slowly, while spinning the raised wheel.

M1 seems to work well, but it still leaks out of everything, including my grease gun. I'm going to valvoline syn next.

Takes forever, especially the first time, but this is what I do.

 

[CDX825]

If the bearings are properly packed when serviced there is no need to add grease. The EZ lube was developed by Dexter for boat trailer axles in order to push any moisture out of the hub after submersion. Somehow they found their way into the RV market and now we have dealers using it as a replacement for repacking. Its easy to blow the seals out and overgrease the hubs causing them to run hotter. My last 3 trailers all had the seals blown out by an overzealous grease gun before I bought them.
Dexter recommends a #2 Lithium based EP/high temp grease. Mystic JT6 and Lucas Red N Tacky are very popular and fit the Dexter specs.

Exactly! If the hub is full to the brim of grease its too full. I'm not a fan of the EZ lube or bearing buddies.

 

[BrianF]

My 2001 Trailswest 5 horse uses what I think are Dexter 6k torsion axles and running Dexter 7k brakes. They are very well built and run great. I have used #2 Mobil red synthetic, Chevron Duralith #1 and some sort of purple Amsoil polymeric #2. It's been mixed and everything in between and runs great. I repack every couple three years and give her a few shots through the bearing buddies throughout the year. I prefer to have the wheel up and rotate the wheel while I pump it in. Never an issue.

 

[RDMgr]

Mobil is lithium complex (LiX). Duralith is lithium 12-hydroxystearate (Li12OH). Amsoil is calcium sulfonate complex (CaSX). On a thickener and base fluid level these are compatible to one degree or another, borderline compatible to compatible. The critical aspect is that they should not be incompatible. You'll never really know until they are tested.

Thickener incompatibility can result in softening or degelling to the grease becoming very heavy and immobile.

 

[BrianF]

@RDMgr, great points. I had emailed the companies many years back and talked compatibility and was given the OK. The different thickeners was one of the reasons I do a tear down. Gives me a chance to see what the grease was like inside. I can mop it out and start fresh. Eventually I'll have my old grease stash cleaned out and go to one grease.

 

[userfriendly]

And one more thing … carry a spare hub assembly and tools to change one out !

Words of wisdom Lloyd, words of wisdom. I carry a spare hub for my 2500 gmc.

 

[Cherrybomb]

Good info here,Does any one know the brand the dexter axles use coming out of the factory?I hoping my Mystik JT6 will work

 

[tnt_motorsports]

Good info here,Does any one know the brand the dexter axles use coming out of the factory?I hoping my Mystik JT6 will work

I put Mystik in my TT this spring. According to the Mystik website it is a lithium complex grease.

https://www.mystiklubes.com/do/product/GREASE/665005002

Here is a brochure from Dexter

https://www.dexteraxle.com/user_area/content_media/raw/e-z-lube-lit-239-00.pdf

List of approved greases (Mystik is on there)

Home | Dexter Axle Co

Proper Bearing Lubrication Type: Dexter Axle News

www.dexteraxle.com

Just my $0.02

 

[titanium10k]

I just did my camper yesterday. Used Red N Tacky. It had been 2 years and maybe a couple thousand miles from last greasing which was with RNT. I was surprised the old grease was much thinner than the new stuff. When it came out of the center it was a good bit darker and wanted to drip. Sorta like mayo consistency. I guess 2 years might be pushing it. Florida heat probably doesn't help.

 

[tblt44]

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