What do you add to your lawn to keep it looking good?

Did a test 2 years ago. I used a lawn insecticide for the front of the front yard, and none on the rear portion. The area with insecticide was at least several shades of green darker. I now use it every year.
 

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The area that the dogs walk on only gets Milorganite. Other parts of the lawn get chemicals(Scotts usually). Weeds get picked by hand or just let them grow. I'm not a obsessed with it.
 
First if you want a decent lawn you need to have the soil tested at least for pH. Fertilizer goes farther if the pH is correct. Pulverized lime from Lowes is dirt cheap but you need to use a drop spreader. I am not sure sure why one would use any of the other lime products since at the end of the day it's lbs per acre to bring up the pH and pulverized is cheapest per lb.

As far as fertilizer goes you really want a slow release nitrogen. A regular non slow release will get some to the grass roots and the rest will flow with the ground water down to the aquifer (not very good). A slow release will keep it around longer for the grass roots.

If you put on a weed and feed with a broadcast spreader it needs to be put on when the grass is wet from rain ending or dew. The 2 4-d weed killer gets absorbed through the leaves of the weeds. It must cling to the leaves of the weeds.

Cool season grass lawns typically need 1" of water every 5 to 7 days. Best to put in it down at once or twice a week at most. You want to push the grass roots to grow deep to seek out water. Not stay shallow if you water every other day.

I think Andersons fertilizer and week killer and pre-emergent is one of the better ones out there. Amazon sells it.

Forget most of what is sold at Home Depot or Lowes except Lesco for fertilizer or weed killer pre-emergent.

For crabgrass pre-emergent you want a Dimension or Barricade chemical in the product.
 
My lawn is in repair mode this summer, as it got pretty burned last year from an overdose of Bio-Advanced 3-in-1. Side note: want something done right? Do it yourself. This spring, only a light dose of Scotts Max Green, and raked in a layer of compost soil and manure, and HEAVY watering to help the soil recover. Careful with the weed & feed, the burn is real. For now, I'm spraying the clover only, and pulling the crabgrass up by hand.
 
Everyone has drinking water wells around here and we have streams north and south. No chemicals.

The back is just whatever grows and gets mowed Weeds - hand dig or spray with 30% acetic acid. No fertilizer, no water. The front I am redoing as we speak. I just tilled it. This place had turf put in at some point with the poly mesh, still digging that junk out. It's everywhere. What a PITA.

So step one, maybe fall - we are already hot and dry. May! Anyway in fall I am planting a clover, cover crop, pasture grass mix after prepping and yes liming (soil is a little acid under pines and such) . Let that grow until spring and then till and prep. Then just plant some local perennial rye. A hardy one. Will water and fertilize a little.
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16-6-8 fertilizer is a good compromise, weed n feed as necessary or spot treat weeds. Reseed in fall or if dog really messes up a spot. I was a commercial landscaper for years so I enjoy having a somewhat nice yard but I'm not into perfection at any cost. I like keeping the speed of maintenance up and cost down. I'll also use whatever is on clearance or dirt cheap at a yard sale. The #1 thing is checking and maintaining irrigation in our region.
 
No chemicals/fertilizer ever, and the kids like to blow dandelions around so I have basically a field of that growing. Too much land to water. Mow it at 3.5 on the mower.
 
I fertilize with Bandini; the first time in early spring before a rainstorm so it gets watered in naturally, the second time early September.

Picture taken today, May 13th, 08:15, looking into the northwest corner of the backyard.

Scott


I haven’t heard that companies name is ages. I was born and raised in Socal and remember their commercials.

 
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