What causes Oil Consumption

[Realtech214]

Other than engine wear what causes an oil to "burn" in an engine. As i have said before, PYB stopped oil consumption from 1 quart ever 2500-3000 miles with gtx to 0% with pyb. Just want to know What properties of oil are good at preventing oil loss?

- I'll never use Castrol again , also where can i get Pennzoil transmission fluid... Other than the internet?

 

[buster]

A lot of things

Sometimes just switching from one brand to the next can cause a spike in oil consumption. This is documented and not internet engineer info. How you drive, the oil's volatility, the volatility of the viscosity modifier and fuel dilution can all contribute to oil consumption. Engine design as well.

 

[tig1]

Valve guide seals from wear, age and poor design.

Coked rings caused by over extending OCIs uaually with dino.

Worn rings and cylinder walls caused by oil contamination most likely from fuel.

 

[FZ1]

Great read. Thanks!

 

[RiceCake]

Underpants gnomes.

 

[MolaKule]

Originally Posted By: Realtech214
Other than engine wear what causes an oil to "burn" in an engine. As i have said before, PYB stopped oil consumption from 1 quart ever 2500-3000 miles with gtx to 0% with pyb. Just want to know What properties of oil are good at preventing oil loss?

- I'll never use Castrol again , also where can i get Pennzoil transmission fluid... Other than the internet?


Check the spark plugs and see what kind of deposits you have on them and then check them against a spark plug deposit chart.

 

[SteveSRT8]

Originally Posted By: buster
A lot of things

Sometimes just switching from one brand to the next can cause a spike in oil consumption. This is documented and not internet engineer info. How you drive, the oil's volatility, the volatility of the viscosity modifier and fuel dilution can all contribute to oil consumption. Engine design as well.


Excellent article. And spot on.

This is wildly platform specific. Every engine can be somewhat unique due to how it has been driven, serviced, etc.

 

[BISCUT]

Thanks for the article. It was a good, easy read. I would have never seen it as I don't go to Amsoil site.

 

[Donald]

One should be able to narrow it down somewhat by looking for a leak (oil on ground) or blue smoke at start-up, compression test.

One thing mentioned on CarTalk is that compression can be fine when the top 2 rings are working as designed, but the 3rd ring is worn or more likely stuck/crudded up.

 

[Donald]

Originally Posted By: BISCUT
Thanks for the article. It was a good, easy read. I would have never seen it as I don't go to Amsoil site.


Even if you are not an Amsoil fan, it a great site for the capacities of components in your drive train.

 

[BlueOvalFitter]

Originally Posted By: Donald
One thing mentioned on CarTalk is that compression can be fine when the top 2 rings are working as designed, but the 3rd ring is worn or more likely stuck/crudded up.

Not trying to hi-jack the thread but this is a very interesting subject. Can some members chime in as to the best oil to use to to prevent this or cure this problem?

 

[tig1]

Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
Originally Posted By: Donald
One thing mentioned on CarTalk is that compression can be fine when the top 2 rings are working as designed, but the 3rd ring is worn or more likely stuck/crudded up.

Not trying to hi-jack the thread but this is a very interesting subject. Can some members chime in as to the best oil to use to to prevent this or cure this problem?

A quality synthetic will prevent this. In all my years of using M1 oils at 10K OCIs I have never had an engine use more oil at the end of my ownership than at the begining. Synthetics are more resistant to coking and sludge than dino.

 

[LeakySeals]

Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
Originally Posted By: Donald
One thing mentioned on CarTalk is that compression can be fine when the top 2 rings are working as designed, but the 3rd ring is worn or more likely stuck/crudded up.

Not trying to hi-jack the thread but this is a very interesting subject. Can some members chime in as to the best oil to use to to prevent this or cure this problem?

A quality synthetic will prevent this. In all my years of using M1 oils at 10K OCIs I have never had an engine use more oil at the end of my ownership than at the begining. Synthetics are more resistant to coking and sludge than dino.

From new it will/might prevent. Try it with a used car and see what happens. I'm 0 for 6. Fools gold to think syn will magically make oil burning go away. Once a burner, stay with dino, a HM oil, or get it repaired.

 

[jfking106]

Gremlins.

 

[BlueOvalFitter]

Originally Posted By: jfking106
Gremlins.


Which one?

 

[FZ1]

Attempt to cure with a blend like Valvoline Maxlife Or M1 Super Hi Mileage. If that don't work,checkout a Conventional Hi Mileage oil.

 

[CATERHAM]

Yes that's a pretty comprehensive list of factors contributing to oil consumption and it's worth noting that an oil's viscosity ranked no higher than 31, although running a heavier oil is the first recommendation most jump to to "solve" the problem although at best it just masks the real mechanical issue.

 

[tig1]

Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
Originally Posted By: Donald
One thing mentioned on CarTalk is that compression can be fine when the top 2 rings are working as designed, but the 3rd ring is worn or more likely stuck/crudded up.

Not trying to hi-jack the thread but this is a very interesting subject. Can some members chime in as to the best oil to use to to prevent this or cure this problem?

A quality synthetic will prevent this. In all my years of using M1 oils at 10K OCIs I have never had an engine use more oil at the end of my ownership than at the begining. Synthetics are more resistant to coking and sludge than dino.

From new it will/might prevent. Try it with a used car and see what happens. I'm 0 for 6. Fools gold to think syn will magically make oil burning go away. Once a burner, stay with dino, a HM oil, or get it repaired.


Read more carefully. I for one did not say that synt. will remove cokeing from rings, although it may help over a long period of time. I said synt. oil will prevent coking.

 

[Shannow]

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Yes that's a pretty comprehensive list of factors contributing to oil consumption and it's worth noting that an oil's viscosity ranked no higher than 31, although running a heavier oil is the first recommendation most jump to to "solve" the problem although at best it just masks the real mechanical issue.


Seriously, you read that as "merit order" list ?

LOL...

 

[gregoron]

My 2000 Jetta is notorious for oil consumption due to possible inverted installation of one of the piston rings. I was consuming - not leaking - around a quart per 1k miles before. I used various oils and replaced maintenance parts with OEM parts like the PCV, spark plugs, and flushed the coolant. I also stuck with OEM oil and air filters as well as replaced the MAF.

I went with VAG specified oil 5W-40 despite what my VW dealers recommended for my car, which was 5W-30.

Based on the oils I have used below, the results were as follows in this order:

PYB 10/40 was consumed 1qt/1k miles. I replaced parts near end of this OCI.

ST (WPP) 10/40, 0qt/1k miles.

ST (WPP) mix half-half 10/40 and 10/30, 0.5qt/1k miles.

Mag1 Euro 5/40, 0.5qt/1k miles.

Mix 50/50 Mag1 5/40 and M1 0/40, 0qt/1k miles.

My next oil change will be just M1 0/40 to see if I will still have zero oil consumption.

Again, oil consumption depends on a lot of things, mostly mechanical. But, nothing is stopping you from trying out various oils that limit or eliminate it as in my case.

I check my oil (and topped off when necessary) every 500 miles even now that I'm not having this issue anymore. YMMV.