Found out lately that the piston got stuck on both rear calipers (2007 Mazda3 I ATX). Would like to get new calipers instead of reman ones on rockauto. What experiences do you guys have for Pagid, Raybestos, and ACDelco? Which brand should I go with? Thanks.
What caliper to get for 2007 mazda3
- Thread starter windeye
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Rockauto.com Raybestos Element 3 I think they're called. New and no core charge to deal with. You can also get them in a package with rotors and pads.
Pagid available? Get it, fast.
Yes Pagid is available. My ignorance: are they better?
Well, Pagid is a supplier of brake components for Porsche & Co.
Further... the Raybestos and AcDelco looked the same, picture wise.
Gonna second this! Put a set on a 2014 Tacoma and they were of very good quality! Paired them with Raybestos coated rotors and their Element 3 Hybrid pads.
Get the Pagid calipers 
Pair them with Raybestos or Power Stop Geomet coated rotors and whatever pads ship from the same warehouse.
Pair them with Raybestos or Power Stop Geomet coated rotors and whatever pads ship from the same warehouse.
You're winding these back, right? And not just pushing on the piston to retract it?
Yes sir. I have the proper tool and service info. Done it 3 times on rear rotor pads etc. Last time it was tight. This time is impossible to turn with the short handle. I change fluid regularly, don't understand why. But will take it part afterwards. I want to know about these aluminum calipers.
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Click here for my article.
Just wanted to share my encounter with the rear caliper. I took the old caliper apart, and wrote this article about it. enjoy. let me know what YOU think the root cause was.
Just wanted to share my encounter with the rear caliper. I took the old caliper apart, and wrote this article about it. enjoy. let me know what YOU think the root cause was.
Article requires access.
Fixed.
Here’s something to check. I’ve found many of the remans look the same. But slide them back and forth on their pins… some will cock at an angle and bind because there’s so much slop in them, while some are toleranced well enough to not allow it to go off kilter. I was shocked by how much slop an Autozone caliper presented when helping a buddy install his. It still ran fine and he’s got 2 years on it by now, but I didn’t like it.
Hi, meep, thanks for your comment. That's actually a very good point. I did not find some scuff lines (in azmuth direction) on the top side of the piston bore. The mazda design is that the caliper rides on the pin via rubber boot at a single point, but the caliper can still "droop", so to speak. Your comment also spells the importance of the spring on the other side of the caliper which rests against the bracket.
If the calipers are OEM, I would try to find a rebuild kit. Chances are it just needs cleaning up and new seals. If I remember correctly they should be ATE calipers. Getting two kits is also probably a good idea, just in case the other side needs it as well.
If you need to get the job done ASAP, get the cheapest remans but keep the originals. Rebuild at your leisure and keep until the reman goes bad.
If you need to get the job done ASAP, get the cheapest remans but keep the originals. Rebuild at your leisure and keep until the reman goes bad.
Hi KrisZ. Thanks for your note. I see you posted at another thread( caliper grease), and you had a mazda3 as well and replaced rear calipers in 10+ years.
My caliper is OE and I have replaced both of them with a Hella Pagid *new* unit. I am saving the OE at least for now.
Good you are keeping the OEMs, these are quality calipers.
I managed to keep mine in good shape until I got rid of the car, by cleaning and lubing the pins after every winter and inspecting for abnormal wear as well. Never had any problems with the pistons.
One thing to note on the rear calipers. Since they are made out of aluminum, they will oxidize where the bushing goes though the caliper, circled, and "squeeze" the caliper pins making them hard to move or seem like they are seizing. I noticed that one spring during my routine inspections that they were hard to remove despite being properly greased and the grease wasn't hardened. I thought the bushings had swollen, but after removing them I noticed deformation marks and investigated further. That's how I found out the oxidation.
I cleaned the oxidation up, lubed with caliper pin lube, put the original bushings in and never had a problem afterwards.
I bought Pagid new calipers for a Beetle they are made in China and do not look different than the Raybestos ones.
Edit: Both makes were absolutely fine, no issues.
Edit: Both makes were absolutely fine, no issues.
