350,000
What are you working on today?
- Thread starter Amkeer
- Start date
Finishing tree removal, brought down by straight line winds during a thunderstorm. Tree had some rot in the center.
Needed all of my 32 inch bar.
Needed all of my 32 inch bar.
CleanSump
Site Donor 2026
Put the bottom transmission belly pan back on the X3 after the total VR&P ATF changeover. It's been 600 miles and the pan's not leaking. The trans is shifting better with no new bad stuff going on. So I'm not going to be draining or fixing anything where the belly pan would be in the way = pan back in place.
This week oddly I had a '99 and 2000 Taco with the same complaint: p/s leak. Both trucks were leaking from the same place, which was the return line.
The OEM return line eventually gets hard as a rock and either leaks at the clamps or just "oozes" fluid through its pores (not sure)
The 2000 was still a little noisy after bleeding lock-to-lock. I was able to just set this rubber block on the reservoir and it held to allow vacuuum. Vacuum bleeding took it from a small but definite whine to a barely perceptible whine -- good enough at 270k miles
The 2000 also got an engine oil change, new air filter, new wipers and new a/c condenser and accumulator. Toyota opted to put the latter two about 1/4" behind the bumper, ensuring that the lightest tap means a/c damage.
Neither AutoZone or O'Reilly lists a condenser for these first gen Tacos -- like at all -- so I had to order from RA. I got a UAC and unfortunately the fit sucked
The OEM return line eventually gets hard as a rock and either leaks at the clamps or just "oozes" fluid through its pores (not sure)
The 2000 was still a little noisy after bleeding lock-to-lock. I was able to just set this rubber block on the reservoir and it held to allow vacuuum. Vacuum bleeding took it from a small but definite whine to a barely perceptible whine -- good enough at 270k miles
The 2000 also got an engine oil change, new air filter, new wipers and new a/c condenser and accumulator. Toyota opted to put the latter two about 1/4" behind the bumper, ensuring that the lightest tap means a/c damage.
Neither AutoZone or O'Reilly lists a condenser for these first gen Tacos -- like at all -- so I had to order from RA. I got a UAC and unfortunately the fit sucked
Job done.
Alternators on the generation J-Series cars I have are pretty much a cake walk. Sure you have to move a few things out of the way, but there are plenty worse jobs.
Hardest part for me is re-installing the belt. Kicks my arse every time.
Alternator fresh off the boat from China WAI GLOBAL 8296N. New, not reman. New Bando belt as well.
And yes, I did go back and plug the cooling fan in.
New positive battery terminal. You have to love Honda back in the day. No extra BS on the terminal, just wires crimped on.
Alternator making good voltage at high idle.
Just about all the load I can put on the thing.
I do have to chuckle at the complete and utter BS spec sheet they send with the alternator:
24 amps of ripple current? I certainly hope not.
Ohh well, we'll see what kind of life I get out of it. The OEM packed it in at 320,000 miles.
Alternators on the generation J-Series cars I have are pretty much a cake walk. Sure you have to move a few things out of the way, but there are plenty worse jobs.
Hardest part for me is re-installing the belt. Kicks my arse every time.
Alternator fresh off the boat from China WAI GLOBAL 8296N. New, not reman. New Bando belt as well.
And yes, I did go back and plug the cooling fan in.
New positive battery terminal. You have to love Honda back in the day. No extra BS on the terminal, just wires crimped on.
Alternator making good voltage at high idle.
Just about all the load I can put on the thing.
I do have to chuckle at the complete and utter BS spec sheet they send with the alternator:
24 amps of ripple current? I certainly hope not.
Ohh well, we'll see what kind of life I get out of it. The OEM packed it in at 320,000 miles.
2009 Ford F350 6.4, somehow still alive at 231,750 mi:
-replaced both fuel filters
-engine oil change. The filler cap is the ratcheting type and had failed so the top just spun by hand while the threads stayed put. Apparently a VERY common problem. The Motorad logo here explains everything you need to know:
I decided rather than ordering a replacement I'd just apply copious SuperGlue (excess visible above), pop the two pieces back together and make it a non-ratcheting cap. Seems to work fine.
-replaced both fuel filters
-engine oil change. The filler cap is the ratcheting type and had failed so the top just spun by hand while the threads stayed put. Apparently a VERY common problem. The Motorad logo here explains everything you need to know:
I decided rather than ordering a replacement I'd just apply copious SuperGlue (excess visible above), pop the two pieces back together and make it a non-ratcheting cap. Seems to work fine.
CleanSump
Site Donor 2026
Brought down the battery charger to check the new RV battery.. 80%? Took about 3hrs to charge to full. Running a recondition cycle now, runs for 12hrs. The last 3 batteries did this procedure and it seems to wake them up, yes could be placebo. The new tractors battery is next, it’s probably a late 24 maybe early 25z
