What are you working on today?

[Creekside]

Culvert replacement on a low water crossing at our farm. I built this crossing a couple years ago with a short piece of plastic culvert I got at an auction cheap. This usually stays wet enough that getting a truck stuck in winter is a concern. We have been dry enough lately that I could tear it out and widen it with a much longer pipe(which is how I should’ve done it in the first place). In time I’ll cover the clay with some geotextile fabric and some base rock. It needs to settle and be rained on a few times first.

I don’t like our farm trucks and tractors covered in mud so I’ve been slowly working on problem areas where we have to regularly travel to get them properly drained or provide access over them in this case. I’m working on building a road from one end of the farm to the other and this was a major piece that needed done before any more gravel can go through here.

 

[meep]

I replaced the rears today. They weren't damaged but I went ahead and did them since I already bought the replacements and had pulled the door panel. The factory speakers are riveted in place so you have to drill them out and bolt plastic adapter rings to the doors.

I was surprised that the rear speakers are made of different materials than the front ones. I would have thought they would be the same if for no other reason than to only have one stock number.

View attachment 349306View attachment 349307

Toyota speakers seem to have a chronic issue with short-lived surrounds. I’ve seen that on several. Maybe theyve gotten better?

 

[meep]

A friend of mine going through some hard times just resurrected his 1997 M3 4 door as a daily driver. Vehicle has about 270k miles on it. Everything is original except the radiator and suspension bushings. Even the ATF is original. Did an oil change on it, M1 euro and STP filter. He won’t touch the ATF on it, and the local euro shop has told him to leave it sealed.

The speakers have fallen out of the door cards, hood is eroded to gray anodized metal, the interior can best be described as “sagging,” but it runs smooth, purrs at idle, carves corners (poly bushings) and pulls like a scalded dog. All the instruments work, including all LCD displays. It threw an O2 code, cat efficiency code, and cold start air pump code. Then the codes went away.

Hes offered twice to sell it to me, and I’ve almost accepted twice, but he needs to keep this car. It has seen him through thick and thin, battle tested.

 

[D60]

'91 Toyota pickup 2.4l for my non-profit:

-engine oil change
-serviced front diff
-replaced belts and both idler pulleys. Turns out the p/s idler is effectively unobtainium, and on the OEM pulleys the bearings are not easily pressed out. You can get a p/s idler (Dorman 419-724), but it's $170 from O'Reilly or $130 from RA! What's equally crazy is that I found a thread from 16 years ago where they faced the same problem, with an OEM pulley being $150 it says:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116/swap-out-your-p-s-idler-pulley-your-c-idler-205197/

Fortunately it was determined the inexpensive a/c idler pulley works in both locations, so that's what I did at $16 each from O'Reilly. The Murray pulleys had NTN bearings which I'd say is good.
-also replaced spark plugs which surprised me with a 13/16" hex

 

[HemiBenny]

'91 Toyota pickup 2.4l for my non-profit:View attachment 349611
-engine oil change
-serviced front diff
-replaced belts and both idler pulleys. Turns out the p/s idler is effectively unobtainium, and on the OEM pulleys the bearings are not easily pressed out. You can get a p/s idler (Dorman 419-724), but it's $170 from O'Reilly or $130 from RA! What's equally crazy is that I found a thread from 16 years ago where they faced the same problem, with an OEM pulley being $150 it says:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116/swap-out-your-p-s-idler-pulley-your-c-idler-205197/

Fortunately it was determined the inexpensive a/c idler pulley works in both locations, so that's what I did at $16 each from O'Reilly.

Kudos to you for thinking this through and realizing that you didn't actually need the overpriced P/S idler. Most people wouldn't have figured this out; I bet most would have paid the higher price. Hell, who knows, I may have.
If it works, it works, no matter what it's labeled as. You've got quite a bit of old-school mechanic in you. You figure it out and make it happen.

Cheers!

 

[D60]

Kudos to you for thinking this through and realizing that you didn't actually need the overpriced P/S idler. Most people wouldn't have figured this out; I bet most would have paid the higher price. Hell, who knows, I may have.
If it works, it works, no matter what it's labeled as. You've got quite a bit of old-school mechanic in you. You figure it out and make it happen.

Cheers!

Well thanks but it was laid out in the Yotatech thread. I just know how to search the web....usually

 

[HemiBenny]

I just know how to search the web....usually

Nothing wrong with that. It's saved me some time here and there.

Sorting the bad info from the good can become a job in itself.

 

[D60]

2010 Venza 3.5 with P0333 ‐ Bank 2 KS high

Hmm, well there's your problem lady

 

[CleanSump]

2010 Venza 3.5 with P0333 ‐ Bank 2 KS high

Hmm, well there's your problem ladyView attachment 349727View attachment 349728

Man o man. Don't you ever take a day off? Always working on something. I'd be burned out.

 

[Gus_Mahn]

Trans drain and fill on my ‘16 F150. No filter just drain from Dorman pan with plug and bucket pump in 6ish quarts of Mercon LV. After the condenser stops draining, going to seal up the firewall at condenser drain and install a 90 degree boot to prevent the too common F150 draining of condensate into the cab.

 

[Spring Break '92]

I have my Troy Bilt weed trimmer taken apart up to the point of removing one bolt, that I am waiting on a Torx socket via Amazon to be able to remove. I need to replace the spark plug - which you cannot without removing the plastic outer casing - and more importantly, clean the spark arrestor screen. It is surging at wide open throttle and all of my research points me there. Also, the spark plug has never been replaced.

 

[JohnnyG]

I donated platelets again today. We had torrential rains Thursday into Friday and all last night here. Probably have a fire in the fire pit to get rid of some brush and dead limbs from trees in my yard

Keep an eye on your testosterone level. Platelet donation can deplete that. Not something serious, just one thing to watch on you regular blood work.

 

[JohnnyG]

Disassembled an irrigation pump with the hopes of rebuilding it or re-using some of the parts. Found out that the Goulds motor uses a non standard thread on the impeller shaft and must be replaced with the exact kind. Motor bearings were locked solid too, so that likely lead to burnt windings. The project will go on to the local lawn care guy for spare parts and recycling.

 

[wander2039]

Yesterday after got back from mom’s 70th bday party started working on the mini-ex, lessen some of the flaws. Got a fan mounted, almost looks like I knew what I was doing. Now need to wire but its hot!! Started on installing the filter but needed a 90 degree elbow. Did evacuate the tank and clean the tank, alot of metal in there.

Got the bearings on the wood trailer repacked. Just used a wire wheel on the races didn’t have. Wheel seals isn’t tight so probably why they were rusty. Its only going 500ft in any direction at 5mph so maybe it’ll last a while with my fix Brush hogged for a couple hours.. did I mention its HOT right now in KC.

 

[iCurious]

No pictures but, replaced the passenger's side axle and axle bracket on a 2009 Toyota Camry.

Last week, same vehicle, replaced the high pressure power steering hose that goes to the rack.

 

[D60]

I have my Troy Bilt weed trimmer taken apart up to the point of removing one bolt, that I am waiting on a Torx socket via Amazon to be able to remove. I need to replace the spark plug - which you cannot without removing the plastic outer casing - and more importantly, clean the spark arrestor screen. It is surging at wide open throttle and all of my research points me there. Also, the spark plug has never been replaced.

Shame on you for not already having a comprehensive set of Torx, Torx Plus, e-Torx, tamper proof Torx, tamper proof Torx plus, XZN and Mortorq

But you are forgiven as you have ordered tools to correct your deficiency Let's not let this happen again, shall we?

 

[BrianF]

I spent some time doing preventive maintenance on the 2017 Ford Flex 3.5 AWD. This is the work vehicle around here and likely take it for a 1800km trip this summer. Thinking 115,000km.

A year or more ago, had it in the dealer for brake service, grease slide pins, service PTU and rear diff. The service rep said they wouldn't service the PTU as it was fill for life. Its not my business so I never looked at the work order.

Today, I grabbed some Mototmaster synthetic LV ATF and did 2 drain and fills on the transmission. I went to check PTU and noticed either the rear main seal or transmission seal is seeping as there is a buildup for oily dirt. There was no drain plug so I pulled the fill plug, which had a hefty layer of fine debris.

I sucked out a small sample of the oil inside and........ it was clean gear oil. ***? It took a few ounces of fresh 75w90 (wasn't going to crack open the bag of 140 weight for that) and it was full.

Now, the rear diff was about as horrible as one could be. It does not have a rear pan, nor a drain plug. The fill plug was tucked above the exhaust/hanger and against a cross member. I pulled the rubber hanger and managed to work the plug out. Poor access and was not able to draw any fluid out but it took several ounces until full.

That was that. I received copious amounts of dirt on my face but minimal injuries. Next up is a thorough cleaning and after some miles, double check the ATF level.