For $280 I'd pry the old relay apart with a razor blade and see if the contacts need polishing with emery cloth or a dollar bill. Sometimes also the solder needs reflowing. Tricks used to return Volvo Fuel Injection relays, which failed constantly, back from the dead. I know you bought a new one, but it'd be great to have a working spare you could leave in the glovebox.
What are you working on today?
- Thread starter Amkeer
- Start date
- Joined
- Jan 6, 2005
- Messages
- 10,327
Temporally replaced the gearhead on my Echo SRM-225 trimmer with a well used OEM gearhead I got on eBay. Last week I accidentally stripped out the threads for the screw that keeps the gearhead from rotating on the shaft. I had removed the gearhead to clean and lube the flex shaft. I have to re-tap the M5 thread up to M6. If all goes well I will reinstall it on the trimmer since the one I got on eBay obviously has a lot more hours on it than mine.
Had a couple small coolant leaks on the 08 CRV, as well as a small atf leak at the rad. Went with the nuclear option and replaced all the rubber (oem Hoses) to include heater hoses and small hoses around the throttle body and egr valve. Also replace atf cooler hoses and filter. Aisin water pump, Dorman aluminum thermostat housing and hard coolant pipe, Tama thermostat, Denso radiator, Litens tensioner and a Dayco belt. Only real snag (other than slipping and breaking the plug off the knock sensor...) was that the radiator had been replaced 10 years ago with a radiator with a normal lower hose connector, and my replacement was made for a quick connect.. Honda wanted $125 for a quick connect, and it was going to take a few days to get. The only other option I could find was a no-name off Amazon that would be here the next day. It seems fine and isn't leaking, but I'm not thrilled about it. Here's the piece:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C2CHM2YC?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
Hardest part of the job for me was physically getting the intake out. My 2.4 has the metal intake with a big plastic piece bolted under it and there just wasn't enough room to lift it out between the motor and the rad core support. Took a lot of fighting. Back together and no leaks though. Hope I'm good for another 10yrs.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C2CHM2YC?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
Hardest part of the job for me was physically getting the intake out. My 2.4 has the metal intake with a big plastic piece bolted under it and there just wasn't enough room to lift it out between the motor and the rad core support. Took a lot of fighting. Back together and no leaks though. Hope I'm good for another 10yrs.
Wasn’t planning on doing anything tonight, bike ride took it out of me. But the X3’s tire pressure warming came on this morning. Screw about a inch from the side. At least wasn’t the new ones. Put a plug in it, 3rd time plugging various tires getting little better at it. The good set is in the other truck, story of my life nowadays. Had the cheaper HF set seemed to work but those are some light duty tools.
More corrosion fun. Transmission lines on my 2011 Heavy Chevy. After doing these and the oil cooler lines I never want to do them again. Pain in the 
and you have to be willing to manhandle the lines and not be gentle. I had the lines in and then realized I twisted the long one when I looked at the rubber part of the lines. Took a few more tries and of fishing it back through past the axle combined with twisting them and taking the lines out of the holder back by the transmission. I got that hooked up and went for the pan. Needed a new gasket due to corrosion from the transmission case (had white corrosion between the ridges on the filter gasket) and the outer edges of the gasket being exposed to salt and becoming brittle. Of course nobody in town stocks the gasket so had the GMC dealer get one for me and picked it up this morning before they opened to the public.
Filter looked like new for 92k miles and the magnet had very little debris on it. Fluid looked new also as I did a fluid replacement 3.5 years ago.
Brought enough fluid for a full replacement but used 8 quarts of the clearance Fram, $5.65/qt, because the fluid and pan looked so good. I’m taking back the blue Valvoline. The MaxLife Iv’e had for 3 or 4 years so I’m stuck with it.
My truck has pulled a camper and been used for plowing snow since day one. I was very surprised at the condition of the filter
Next up will be the Vibe. I changed the-case fluid and went to the rear diff and found this.
Never noticed it when I bought it or rotated tires. Looks like seals on both sides are out. I cleaned it up and did a drain and fill and brought it home to monitor it. When I drained it there wasn’t a shortage of fluid like I expected. The 8 mile ride home was fine, no seepage from seals. I am not looking forward to that job.
and you have to be willing to manhandle the lines and not be gentle. I had the lines in and then realized I twisted the long one when I looked at the rubber part of the lines. Took a few more tries and of fishing it back through past the axle combined with twisting them and taking the lines out of the holder back by the transmission. I got that hooked up and went for the pan. Needed a new gasket due to corrosion from the transmission case (had white corrosion between the ridges on the filter gasket) and the outer edges of the gasket being exposed to salt and becoming brittle. Of course nobody in town stocks the gasket so had the GMC dealer get one for me and picked it up this morning before they opened to the public.Filter looked like new for 92k miles and the magnet had very little debris on it. Fluid looked new also as I did a fluid replacement 3.5 years ago.
Brought enough fluid for a full replacement but used 8 quarts of the clearance Fram, $5.65/qt, because the fluid and pan looked so good. I’m taking back the blue Valvoline. The MaxLife Iv’e had for 3 or 4 years so I’m stuck with it.
My truck has pulled a camper and been used for plowing snow since day one. I was very surprised at the condition of the filter
Next up will be the Vibe. I changed the-case fluid and went to the rear diff and found this.
Never noticed it when I bought it or rotated tires. Looks like seals on both sides are out. I cleaned it up and did a drain and fill and brought it home to monitor it. When I drained it there wasn’t a shortage of fluid like I expected. The 8 mile ride home was fine, no seepage from seals. I am not looking forward to that job.
A friend's gas n go leased VW came by for its mid lease healing session 
21 months and 7,000 miles into its life
It's a '25 Jetta SE Auto, with the new 1.5T
They missed the free 10k service, VW gives 1 month/1k mile grace period on the Carefree maintenance
Standard neglect
Cowls, clogged
Wiper blades, torn
This Bosch combo part # is quiet and cost effective
Of course the washer fluid was bone dry
I've seen worse, but this CAF wasn't breathing well
Scrub the mats, they were nasty
Literally no one sets the TPMS on these VWs, got them all set cold and off it went to the VW dealer for service and inspection
They managed to bill it out under the 20k service, and probably tossed my fresh CAF
Only $10 for the NYS inspection
Menu pricing for an OCI at my VW dealer is $129 + tax
Labor rates are up ($220 an hour)
Got it back, took it for a wash and vacuum
I kinda dig the glass (ish) cockpit
Topped off the gas, and returned to its owner
Who will continue to neglect it until the lease runs out
Coming to a CPO VW lot near you
I tried the scan tool on it, my first time hitting SFD2 on MY24+ VWs
21 months and 7,000 miles into its life
It's a '25 Jetta SE Auto, with the new 1.5T
They missed the free 10k service, VW gives 1 month/1k mile grace period on the Carefree maintenance
Standard neglect
Cowls, clogged
Wiper blades, torn
This Bosch combo part # is quiet and cost effective
Of course the washer fluid was bone dry
I've seen worse, but this CAF wasn't breathing well
Scrub the mats, they were nasty
Literally no one sets the TPMS on these VWs, got them all set cold and off it went to the VW dealer for service and inspection
They managed to bill it out under the 20k service, and probably tossed my fresh CAF
Only $10 for the NYS inspection
Menu pricing for an OCI at my VW dealer is $129 + tax
Labor rates are up ($220 an hour)
Got it back, took it for a wash and vacuum
I kinda dig the glass (ish) cockpit
Topped off the gas, and returned to its owner
Who will continue to neglect it until the lease runs out
Coming to a CPO VW lot near you
I tried the scan tool on it, my first time hitting SFD2 on MY24+ VWs
Stopped by a exhaust shop and had a new muffler and some of the piping replaced on the 04 Escape. 2nd time for that section, front and rear still factory. They started looking at the rear cat thought it sounded strange.. well it might be empty 
. The fronts isn’t much better. 22 years old and 201k its on 3 legs at this point.
Used the HF tire remover to dismount all the tires off the f150 rims. Mounted a 15 I had laying around on one rim. Need to get it rollable and one was flat. Cleaned the outside ac unit and replaced the filter.
. The fronts isn’t much better. 22 years old and 201k its on 3 legs at this point. Used the HF tire remover to dismount all the tires off the f150 rims. Mounted a 15 I had laying around on one rim. Need to get it rollable and one was flat. Cleaned the outside ac unit and replaced the filter.
Elkins45
Site Donor 2026
I replaced the factory front speakers in my Scion xB this afternoon. As you can see, they have seen better days. I’m planning on doing the rears tomorrow.
Doing an early oil change on a new vehicle, probably at the 500 mile mark. Is there any reason to change the filter as well?
Elkins45
Site Donor 2026
I replaced the rears today. They weren't damaged but I went ahead and did them since I already bought the replacements and had pulled the door panel. The factory speakers are riveted in place so you have to drill them out and bolt plastic adapter rings to the doors.
I was surprised that the rear speakers are made of different materials than the front ones. I would have thought they would be the same if for no other reason than to only have one stock number.
I was surprised that the rear speakers are made of different materials than the front ones. I would have thought they would be the same if for no other reason than to only have one stock number.
2016 Subaru XV Crosstrek spark plug tube seals, serpentine belt, tensioner, idlers. A/C condenser, high and low hoses, expansion valve and remove 2 compressor clutch shims to get the air gap in spec. Easy job, the only PITA and most time consuming part was getting the silicone off the head valve cover area.
CleanSump
Site Donor 2026
You've got better speakers now, even if they were ok. I hate the stupid 3 rivet/screw frame. The crappy basic sound system speakers in our X3 were that kind. I put in cheap Panasonics with adapters. Way more betterererrer!
You love silicone!
'85 Chevy K20:
-new v-belts
-replaced turn signal cam and wiper switch along with turn signal stalk
I gotta say: I like GM trucks and would own one in a heartbeat, but I've never found square bodies, GMT400s or GMT800s particularly easy to work on. Everything has a million components (like door panels) or is variable by five different RPO codes. Even brake calipers often have three or more options for the same half ton.
Square bodies are frustrating because you'll often see a 1985 with 1983 style wiper switches or speedometer cables. I don't know if the factory used whatever was lying around or people have just been into it over the years.
-new v-belts
-replaced turn signal cam and wiper switch along with turn signal stalk
I gotta say: I like GM trucks and would own one in a heartbeat, but I've never found square bodies, GMT400s or GMT800s particularly easy to work on. Everything has a million components (like door panels) or is variable by five different RPO codes. Even brake calipers often have three or more options for the same half ton.
Square bodies are frustrating because you'll often see a 1985 with 1983 style wiper switches or speedometer cables. I don't know if the factory used whatever was lying around or people have just been into it over the years.
GM powertrian is super simple unless it's a Northstar or a Duramax.
GM has the best wiring diagrams & they're consistent on wire colors over the decades.....Red=Battery Hot, Orange=Fused Battery Hot, Pink=Ignition Hot, Brown=Accessory Hot, Black & Black/White=Ground, Purple & Yellow=Starter Solenoid, Grey=5-Volt reference.
All trailer wiring uses GM wire colors.
I can see the RPO code thing being irritating, But at least you have it to order parts. I have been bit by ordering wrong rear pads/calipers on GMT800's.....Dual Piston, Single Piston etc etc.
Square Body trucks get modified to death because the 18 year production run, A 1991 fully loaded Suburban is quite a bit different than a 1973 base Suburban but everything could be swapped over.
Nice job! I’ve done so much that at some point I bought a tool set that was better than junk, and has survived a few uses a bit better. You just don’t want that awl breaking through the T-handle and jamming into your palm.