What are you working on today?

Working on another clock to give to a family member. You can guess the make and approximate age if you want for fun.

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Drove up to Sault Ste. Marie today after staying in Ludington last night. I totally found Ludington by accident, I just needed a room for the night and ended up right on the water. I’ll definitely be going back.

Visited the Soo Locks tonight and I’m taking the boat tour tomorrow morning. Wednesday morning I’ll start on the 1,000 mile trip home.

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'80s VW ....Rabbit or Jetta?
Nailed it. Jetta, probably 83

Clocks tend to work in 4 out of 5. Most frequent failure is 2 blown caps on the power input, and since it’s 80’s, they can be replaced. Sometimes a part is missing like the second hand. If I can get the clock working, I shoehorn the sylvania ZEVO 164 led lamps into the illumination hood, clean it up, stick it in the box, and let it run for a week to make sure it’s good. I’ve got one now that loses a minute per day and haven’t seen that before. May be a mechanical problem with the set knob dragging on it.

Same clock module seems to used in VW, audi, merc and possibly some bmws.
 
Nailed it. Jetta, probably 83

Clocks tend to work in 4 out of 5. Most frequent failure is 2 blown caps on the power input, and since it’s 80’s, they can be replaced. Sometimes a part is missing like the second hand. If I can get the clock working, I shoehorn the sylvania ZEVO 164 led lamps into the illumination hood, clean it up, stick it in the box, and let it run for a week to make sure it’s good. I’ve got one now that loses a minute per day and haven’t seen that before. May be a mechanical problem with the set knob dragging on it.

Same clock module seems to used in VW, audi, merc and possibly some bmws.
About ~15 years ago I had a Mr Coffee coffee maker that couldn't keep time. It was digital, of course, but even the Chinese should be embarrassed. We've been able to create clocks either analog or digital for .....centuries??.....that were accurate and didn't gain or lose time. I wore nothing but digital watches in grade school (I thought they were SOOOO cool) and they worked fine.

Anyway, I remember swapping the entire printed circuit on my (first car) 1980 Audi 5k to get the tach working again. I had a couple parts cars and learned a lot back then. It was not a Quattro but that oversized VW was REALLY good in the Colo snow.
 
1998 Ford Explorer 4.0 SOHC. The Chinesium water pump and OE thermostat housing went out. Took most of yesterday to wrangle with it. Changed the valve cover gaskets today. I’ll use some PTO to wrap it up tomorrow(install upper intake, fill/bleed cooling system).

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2018 Silverado 1500 5.3:
-a/c leak fix and recharge. Once again nitrogen to the rescue, although I was running out of ideas on where to look for leaks. Finally I found it on the front edge of the condenser, THEN I learned this is an extremely common failure point. Still, kinda proud of myself (hey, take it where you can get it) for finding it without any hints.
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This guy goes on to talk about how common this is on this generation:


I used a Murray from O'Reilly and fit was what you'd expect: poor enough to complain, good enough to make it.
 
Front pads & rotors on a '13 Avalon XLE
About 90k on it, his complaint was a brake pulsation in the steering wheel
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So the 6 year old (but 8mm remaining) front pads had to go
Forcing screws got the rotors off easily, 3M hub cleaner got the hubs clean
Bosch Quietcast pad & rotor combo, ACDelco silicone brake lube on the pins, CRC synthetic brake grease on the pads/hardware
Siphon the master cylinder, refill with fresh, bleed out both front calipers
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A thorough enough job IMO for the $350 I charge, and a hell of a lot better than the (trade price) $475 the Toyota dealer wanted for just the pads/rotors
I had to educate him on how Toyota sells the fitting kit/shim kit separately on factory vs TCMC parts
Are those Toyota rotors better, probably
At that price difference, I'm not so sure

Just barely got caught in the rain
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Really gotta buy one of the pop up tent cover things 🤔
 
Forgot to share a side project from work: coworker asked me if I could replace the blower motor in his 2012 Focus because he had no interest in shoving himself under the dashboard :rolleyes:

For those not aware: replacing the blower in this particular generation Foci requires pulling the glove box, the ENTIRE BCM/fuse panel and it's bracket, the air recirc. door and it's actuator (that's held in place by 3 blind, tiny T25 screws), and finally twisting and removing the blower from inside the HVAC case. Re-installation takes two people working from both sides of the dash and a large dose of patience. Luckily, I tackled this on a muggy 90 degree day which helped immensely. On the flip side: book time pays 3.1 and I had it knocked out in a little over an hour using only hand tools. Still got it!

This guy did a great video, if anyone is curious: Focus Blower Motor Replacement
Much props. Did the same thing on my 2018 Escape. Its the worst procedure that I have encountered. I didnt bother putting the impossible glovebox bracket back in, glovebox works fine.
 
New vehicle purchase, my local county retired a 2015 Grand Caravan. Drove it to the ranch from the county annex. 104k on the odometer, everything works. New Walmart AGM battery installed. I need to replace the passenger side headrest, spill/fill of the trans, brake fluid and thats about it. Will take a closer look at the oil cooler but I think its probably ok. It will be assigned to one of my kids in the near future.

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It's only when a part is holding up a project that it comes late. When you're in no rush it comes on time or early.
Yes every time.. showed up right as it was getting dark
What scooter and engine is that? That's an interesting crossbar and pretty substantial looking build.
Kymco Like 150.. I haven’t seen any scooter engines prior but wasn’t expecting dual valves and the overall build.
 
2018 Silverado 1500 5.3:
-a/c leak fix and recharge. Once again nitrogen to the rescue, although I was running out of ideas on where to look for leaks. Finally I found it on the front edge of the condenser, THEN I learned this is an extremely common failure point. Still, kinda proud of myself (hey, take it where you can get it) for finding it without any hints.View attachment 347789View attachment 347790
This guy goes on to talk about how common this is on this generation:


I used a Murray from O'Reilly and fit was what you'd expect: poor enough to complain, good enough to make it.


Extremely common. I just look for oil on the top left corner. Updated GM units have heat tape over that area.
 
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