What are you working on today?

Just treated the underside of my 23 4Runner with Blaster Surface Shield. Being in South Texas it looked pretty good, only minor surface rust. But. I want to drive this thing for another 15-20 years so doing what I can now.

Did the diff and transfer case service, added a Frantz oil bypass filter, greased drive shaft and yoke so now just need to do a transmission service with filter change. I’m at 44k miles on it right now. It gets driven a lot but when I retire in 2 years the driving will be substantially less.
 
Fixed the leaking valve cover on the riding mower. Everything online said the valve cover bolts were 10mm well got my 10mm on it and it was very sloppy and probably would have rounded the corners of the bolt so I went back inside and got a 3/8 and it was perfect. So everyone online saying John Deere doesn’t use SAE is wrong lol. I was like well there’s just no way it’s a 9mm so I know it’s got to be 3/8. 3/8 and 10 aren’t really interchangeable.
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Fixed the leaking valve cover on the riding mower. Everything online said the valve cover bolts were 10mm well got my 10mm on it and it was very sloppy and probably would have rounded the corners of the bolt so I went back inside and got a 3/8 and it was perfect. So everyone online saying John Deere doesn’t use SAE is wrong lol. I was like well there’s just no way it’s a 9mm so I know it’s got to be 3/8. 3/8 and 10 aren’t really interchangeable.
Blake, what oil are you using? What is your OCI? What is the mileage or hours on the mower? What viscosity? What does it say in the owner's manual? What does it say on the cap? Why aren't you running my favorite brand of oil? Did you get your knees dirty while doing it? How often do you have to put air in the tires? You need gizmo brand blades on that thing. My dad had one of those back in 1932 and he ran it on used cooking oil.
 
Just bought a 1999 Tacoma with 60,000 miles. Changed oil and drained and filled transmission. Waiting on new radiator hoses to arrive to do radiator. I posted on another thread, but anyone know how hard resealing the oil pans on these old things is? Also, at only 60,000 miles should I replace the lower ball joints? I've heard those are a common failing part on these trucks. Thanks.

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Blake, what oil are you using? What is your OCI? What is the mileage or hours on the mower? What viscosity? What does it say in the owner's manual? What does it say on the cap? Why aren't you running my favorite brand of oil? Did you get your knees dirty while doing it? How often do you have to put air in the tires? You need gizmo brand blades on that thing. My dad had one of those back in 1932 and he ran it on used cooking oil.
It’s got Havoline 10W-30 in it. Both the front tires keep going flat so next project is to track down the leaks. Oil change once per year and something like 164 hours on it lol. It doesn’t say what type it needs on the cap either haha.
 
Did that on the Tacoma ^^^, last year’s crack has started growing again so I hope to stop it.

Plus an oil change at 7500 (dipstick has not moved since the last check, moving back to regular gas and it’s warmer out (made oil last time)). TGMO 0-20 (4.5 quarts) and 1 quart of Mobil1 10-30 (1 quart) - which seems to be the magic combo for ease of starting while much improved NVH. This leaves 0.5 quarts of room on the dipstick (double verified) in case it might decide to make oil again.

Installed GFI outlet in garage, installed another 16’ of “catwalk” in the attic while I was up there (the materials were already staged last year), helped neighbor load stuff on a trailer.

Solid workout at 0600.
 
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Brakes are in, both sides on the old 3500. On further inspection, I noticed slight seepage on the driver side hub inner seal. Its very minimal do I'll likely change it out after this season ends. Also, the rear u joint on the driveshaft expelled a little grease but still feels tight. That is a project for another day.

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