What are you working on today?
- Thread starter Amkeer
- Start date
My fiancé's son's 99 Cavalier overheated today, and we had to go to his work to see what was going on. There was coolant underneath the car but not actively dripping when we got there. Overflow tank was empty. I checked out the hoses and underneath the water pump but nothing looked wet in those areas. I finally determined that the coolant was from the overflow tank overflow tube because I briefly started it and no coolant started pouring out anywhere. I checked the oil and it looked normal.
I turned on the AC to see of the fan would kick on and it did not. I checked the fan fuse which was good and swapped the fan relay with another one and still no fan operation. While we waited for AAA I went across the street to Walmart and bought more coolant and filled the tank back up and ran the car for a little while and the fan never did come on. The temp gauge was in the normal range.
After AAA brought the car to the house, I used a fused jumper wire and jumped the load side of the relay and still no fan operation. I unplugged the fan and hooked a test light to the connector and started the car and turned the AC on and the test light came on so I know that I have power and what I need at the fan for it to work. The fan blades turn easily so it's not locked up.
It looks like it's getting a new coolant fan. I can only find aftermarket ones, and none have very good reviews so I guess it will be a crapshoot on how long one of these aftermarket fans will last.
I turned on the AC to see of the fan would kick on and it did not. I checked the fan fuse which was good and swapped the fan relay with another one and still no fan operation. While we waited for AAA I went across the street to Walmart and bought more coolant and filled the tank back up and ran the car for a little while and the fan never did come on. The temp gauge was in the normal range.
After AAA brought the car to the house, I used a fused jumper wire and jumped the load side of the relay and still no fan operation. I unplugged the fan and hooked a test light to the connector and started the car and turned the AC on and the test light came on so I know that I have power and what I need at the fan for it to work. The fan blades turn easily so it's not locked up.
It looks like it's getting a new coolant fan. I can only find aftermarket ones, and none have very good reviews so I guess it will be a crapshoot on how long one of these aftermarket fans will last.
I don't have time so I am having a trusted local independent repair shop install my Acuity short throw shifter and cable bushings on my 23 Civic Type R. They will also drain & fill my manual transmission fluid while they're in there. (Amsoil Synchromesh Manual Transmission Fluid)
'98 Ranger had a dilapidated center console/armrest. They had finally duct taped across it trying to make for something resembling an armrest.
I was pleased to find an aftermarket cottage industry solution on ebay. It doesn't look exactly OEM but it's a huge improvement. Would recommend.
The guy making these must be an old school machinist (or possibly electrician) because you'll need an 11/32" wrench for the provided nuts and we all know that means 8-32 threads.
I was pleased to find an aftermarket cottage industry solution on ebay. It doesn't look exactly OEM but it's a huge improvement. Would recommend.
The guy making these must be an old school machinist (or possibly electrician) because you'll need an 11/32" wrench for the provided nuts and we all know that means 8-32 threads.
Replaced the cooling fan on the 1999 Chevy Cavalier today. What a PITA. It will not come out through the top and has to be removed and installed from below but that is a major PITA because of the AC manifold line that is in the way.
You have to unbolt the radiator at the top, unbolt the hood latch assembly, unbolt both head lights so that you can pull the radiator towards you. There is only one bolt at the bottom and the rest of the attachment points is a plastic hook that hooks over the top of the radiator on the passenger side, a plastic post that clips into the plastic holder at the top on the driver's side and then another plastic holder down lower on the driver's side. The core support is in the way to easily unhook the plastic hook that goes over the top of the radiator. I ended up breaking the hook off trying to get it off of the radiator. Luckily the new fan had the entire assembly. Getting the plastic post out of the holder is not easy either. I had to use two screwdrivers in limited access to get it popped free.
I had the car jacked up so I could get under it and finally was able to remove the fan assembly. I was about three hours in at this point with a lot of the time figuring out how to get the fan assembly past the AC line. I didn't want to have to take that line off if at all possible. I had to rotate the fan sideways to get it out.
Putting the new fan assembly back in went a lot quicker and smoothly. I had to unclip a wiring harness that ran along the bottom of the radiator support which I should have done when taking it out. Doing that and having my fiancé pull back on the radiator finally allowed me to install the fan. I had to start it sideways and then rotate it as I was pushing it up. Finally, it was in.
Got everything bolted back up and the fan was working like it should. I had tested the fan before installing it to make sure that it worked. The AC was now also working which it wasn't yesterday when I first looked at the car. The only thing now is that the low coolant light will not go out even though the coolant level in the tank is full and the gauge is reading normal. I ordered a new coolant level sensor, and it should be here tomorrow so I can install that and hopefully the light will go out.
I hope that I never have to do this job again. It was not fun and tested my patience. At least it's fixed.
You have to unbolt the radiator at the top, unbolt the hood latch assembly, unbolt both head lights so that you can pull the radiator towards you. There is only one bolt at the bottom and the rest of the attachment points is a plastic hook that hooks over the top of the radiator on the passenger side, a plastic post that clips into the plastic holder at the top on the driver's side and then another plastic holder down lower on the driver's side. The core support is in the way to easily unhook the plastic hook that goes over the top of the radiator. I ended up breaking the hook off trying to get it off of the radiator. Luckily the new fan had the entire assembly. Getting the plastic post out of the holder is not easy either. I had to use two screwdrivers in limited access to get it popped free.
I had the car jacked up so I could get under it and finally was able to remove the fan assembly. I was about three hours in at this point with a lot of the time figuring out how to get the fan assembly past the AC line. I didn't want to have to take that line off if at all possible. I had to rotate the fan sideways to get it out.
Putting the new fan assembly back in went a lot quicker and smoothly. I had to unclip a wiring harness that ran along the bottom of the radiator support which I should have done when taking it out. Doing that and having my fiancé pull back on the radiator finally allowed me to install the fan. I had to start it sideways and then rotate it as I was pushing it up. Finally, it was in.
Got everything bolted back up and the fan was working like it should. I had tested the fan before installing it to make sure that it worked. The AC was now also working which it wasn't yesterday when I first looked at the car. The only thing now is that the low coolant light will not go out even though the coolant level in the tank is full and the gauge is reading normal. I ordered a new coolant level sensor, and it should be here tomorrow so I can install that and hopefully the light will go out.
I hope that I never have to do this job again. It was not fun and tested my patience. At least it's fixed.
CleanSump
Site Donor 2026
Our 92 Chevy Cavaliers have three bolts holding the fan assembly in and one connector to take off and it lifts out the top. Probably a 10-minute job tops. I don't know what they were thinking on this 99.
2014 Rogue Select:
-engine oil change
-spill 'n fill CVT
-rear brake job, had rotors turned + new pads
-customer complained of low power on mtn passes, but I couldn't find anything. Drives fine now, no codes, plugs look good, MAF is clear (twice before this vehicle has had bugs fried on the MAF)
-installed new pdl actuators (the entire latch assy) on 3 of 4 doors. I used cheap import.
The rear doors are quite easy, except I forgot about Nissan's black goop of doom for the dust barrier. That stuff never dries and transfers like High Spot Blue marking compound
On the first one I tried transferring the existing cable from the exterior handle, but then that handle didn't have quite enough travel to engage the release. I used the cable they provided and it works well. Removing the exterior handle is VERY easy -- don't be afraid.
The fronts are more of a hassle because of the door card/window regulator integration, but still not bad
My memory said the driver door wasn't noisy, but it is. So now I need to replace the FOURTH final actuator some day.....
-engine oil change
-spill 'n fill CVT
-rear brake job, had rotors turned + new pads
-customer complained of low power on mtn passes, but I couldn't find anything. Drives fine now, no codes, plugs look good, MAF is clear (twice before this vehicle has had bugs fried on the MAF)
-installed new pdl actuators (the entire latch assy) on 3 of 4 doors. I used cheap import.
The rear doors are quite easy, except I forgot about Nissan's black goop of doom for the dust barrier. That stuff never dries and transfers like High Spot Blue marking compound
On the first one I tried transferring the existing cable from the exterior handle, but then that handle didn't have quite enough travel to engage the release. I used the cable they provided and it works well. Removing the exterior handle is VERY easy -- don't be afraid.
The fronts are more of a hassle because of the door card/window regulator integration, but still not bad
My memory said the driver door wasn't noisy, but it is. So now I need to replace the FOURTH final actuator some day.....
Installed a new coolant level sensor on the 1999 Cavalier in an attempt to get the low indicator light off on the dash. Installed the new sensor and the light kept coming on. I thought that the new sensor was bad given it's an aftermarket Duralast.
I did some research since this sensor slides into a cavity on the overflow tank and is not directly exposed to coolant and determined it uses some type of magnetic float inside the tank that the sensor reads. I banged on the tank in the area where the sensor mounts and then restarted the car and now the light is off. I guess the float was stuck. We test drove the car a couple of times and so far the light has stayed off. If the light comes back on any time soon, we will replace the overflow tank.
I did some research since this sensor slides into a cavity on the overflow tank and is not directly exposed to coolant and determined it uses some type of magnetic float inside the tank that the sensor reads. I banged on the tank in the area where the sensor mounts and then restarted the car and now the light is off. I guess the float was stuck. We test drove the car a couple of times and so far the light has stayed off. If the light comes back on any time soon, we will replace the overflow tank.
Been enjoying my days off at the truck show. Too many trucks to post. A large truck club from Mexico came up with over 50 absolutely top of the line trucks and brought a huge smoker trailer. They have been cooking all kinds of meat and are only doing it for tips. Homemade corn tortillas were great.
A few photos from days gone by when the Big 3 were all in the heavy truck business. The Dodges are much more rare than the Ford and Chevy/GMC trucks.
Spent the afternoon putting the new used parts on project Volvo. I have to say, the color match is excellent (shout out to using OEM parts) which was my biggest worry. I still have to play with the bumper fitment on the RH side a bit, but overall I'm happy with the outcome.
2010 Dodge Charger 2.7L/42RLE, No speedometer & Speed Sensor "A" DTC. Scoped the wheel speed sensor & it's good. TIPM shows a good wheel speed (This car doesn't have ABS) but the PCM isn't receiving or doesn't recognize the output over CAN (No CAN/Communication DTC's)
Then I found wire nuts, A really sloppy overlay, And of coarse a fresh reman PCM.
Bet the PCM is configured for ABS & will not accept a speed signal from the TIPM...To be continued.
Started on a 2006 Chevy LBZ Duramax head gasket job.....Valve job, Head Surface, ARP studs, & GM gaskets......Pulling the cab.
Then I found wire nuts, A really sloppy overlay, And of coarse a fresh reman PCM.
Bet the PCM is configured for ABS & will not accept a speed signal from the TIPM...To be continued.
Started on a 2006 Chevy LBZ Duramax head gasket job.....Valve job, Head Surface, ARP studs, & GM gaskets......Pulling the cab.
"Bessie" got a new exhaust system. Growing up in Ohio, any exhaust work always required a torch. Very different here, or I wouldn't bother in my condition.
Cleaned up the old 2004 Escape. I pulled the driver door panel and lubed up the latch mechanism, it opens and closes as good as a Ford can. I'll call Napa tomorrow and see of they have a cheapo wheel bearing for the front, hoping so as I want it gone in the next few days.
The e brake parts came from rock auto the other day, hopefully get the 3500 all sorted out this weekend. Need to give it a good wash inside and out....
I need to get everything squared away as next Friday I have to fly out to Vancouver for that stupid fifa world cup. Work wanted me gone for three weeks and I told them you are lucky to get me for one...
The e brake parts came from rock auto the other day, hopefully get the 3500 all sorted out this weekend. Need to give it a good wash inside and out....
I need to get everything squared away as next Friday I have to fly out to Vancouver for that stupid fifa world cup. Work wanted me gone for three weeks and I told them you are lucky to get me for one...
Enjoying my last night at the truck show in the truck. I had originally planned to drive the hour home and an hour back in the morning but I’m done with it today. I keep the bed made all the time so it wasn’t a big deal. Got the Yanmar powered Thermo King Tri-pac chugging away and it’s about 65 degrees in here with the air conditioner on.
For anyone curious this is the room you got in the sleeper of one of these old cabovers, and this is a longer sleeper than average. Many newer flat top(coffin) sleepers are still like this depending on how it was ordered. This is the best sleep I ever get with the Tri-pac running, way better than I ever do at home.
For anyone curious this is the room you got in the sleeper of one of these old cabovers, and this is a longer sleeper than average. Many newer flat top(coffin) sleepers are still like this depending on how it was ordered. This is the best sleep I ever get with the Tri-pac running, way better than I ever do at home.
Holy wh*rehouse red !!!
Yeah it's obviously clean and I agree I'd leave it original!
I just expect to see a Madam charging admission
