What are you working on today?

[clinebarger]

2012 2500HD L96 engine job is complete besides the hood ground strap, Was already broken but I'll fix it anyway.

Picture of the fuel pump connector, Owner says they had a mobile mechanic put a fuel pump in.....Yikes!!!!

 

[D60]

2019 Rogue:
-engine oil change
-front brakes: pads, rotors, hardware. I'm continually baffled by the apparent resistance to finding a method for pad retraction or anti-rattle and just using that which is proven to work.

Instead -- just like electrical connectors -- manufacturers want to reinvent the wheel with each new model. These stupid clips are some of the most maddening I've seen.

-Windshield washer line was plugged at some point. I pulled the cowl and I think there was something wrong with the tee which also seems to double as a check valve. It actually came apart when I touched it, revealing a spring inside. I glued it back together and it works well now.

Tech tip: a brass drift and hammer on the wiper arm drives works well to break the taper when there's no way to fit puller jaws!

I thought I was finished but still had a squeak at low speeds. I ruled out the rear brakes and finally determined it was the rear diff coupler by standing under it on the lift. Common on these Rogues (I learned). I don't think they're going to want to do anything right now. Looks like the OEM part is ~$1100

@D1dad any experience with these rear couplings?

 

[D1dad]

2019 Rogue:
-engine oil change
-front brakes: pads, rotors, hardware. I'm continually baffled by the apparent resistance to finding a method for pad retraction or anti-rattle and just using that which is proven to work.

Instead -- just like electrical connectors -- manufacturers want to reinvent the wheel with each new model. These stupid clips are some of the most maddening I've seen. View attachment 338272

-Windshield washer line was plugged at some point. I pulled the cowl and I think there was something wrong with the tee which also seems to double as a check valve. It actually came apart when I touched it, revealing a spring inside. I glued it back together and it works well now.View attachment 338273

Tech tip: a brass drift and hammer on the wiper arm drives works well to break the taper when there's no way to fit puller jaws!

I thought I was finished but still had a squeak at low speeds. I ruled out the rear brakes and finally determined it was the rear diff coupler by standing under it on the lift. Common on these Rogues (I learned). I don't think they're going to want to do anything right now. Looks like the OEM part is ~$1100

@D1dad any experience with these rear couplings?

I have not any rear coupler issues so far and I’m at 125k. I’d look at veldman auto parts who specializes in used low mileage parts, probably by accident. Good reputable bone yard who monitors the turnpike between Chicago and Detroit. So lots of customers. The video looks pretty easy. If you want new I use zeigler nissan out of Chicago. Lowest prices I’ve found and they’ll probably have a memorial day coupon sale coming up. There’s no grease points on the awd system so your left with using a can of lube and hope you can quiet it down. I’m not a fan of the rattle clips, but they do a good job of keeping the pads off the rotor. Just double check your work and make sure that the little tit stays in between the pad ear and the rotor. I’ve had them spring behind the ear which does the opposite of what it’s intended to do.

 

[D60]

I’m not a fan of the rattle clips, but they do a good job of keeping the pads off the rotor. Just double check your work and make sure that the little tit stays in between the pad ear and the rotor. I’ve had them spring behind the ear which does the opposite of what it’s intended to do.

They all wanted to do that until I gave them a serious twist so they push against the pad ear. At first I wanted to blame aftermarket but dimensionally they're identical to OEM.

If they had just made the leg of the clip a little longer it wouldn't be able to slip out between the pad ear and abutment clip??

I had my wife helping me chase the squeak. It's textbook according to reports: only around ~10-25 MPH. And of course it's intermittent. She kept telling me it's from the rear but it's not from a wheel. At first I dismissed her because it seems to stop when you apply the brakes. But it's intermittent enough you can't be 100%

But then we got it to occur on the lift. I had my face at the rear pinion and it was obviously screaming at me from there -- when you're right next to it you almost need ear protection because it's shrill.

Thanks for the parts source tips! I don't speak Nissan well.

 

[D1dad]

They all wanted to do that until I gave them a serious twist so they push against the pad ear. At first I wanted to blame aftermarket but dimensionally they're identical to OEM.

If they had just made the leg of the clip a little longer it wouldn't be able to slip out between the pad ear and abutment clip??

I had my wife helping me chase the squeak. It's textbook according to reports: only around ~10-25 MPH. And of course it's intermittent. She kept telling me it's from the rear but it's not from a wheel. At first I dismissed her because it seems to stop when you apply the brakes. But it's intermittent enough you can't be 100%

But then we got it to occur on the lift. I had my face at the rear pinion and it was obviously screaming at me from there -- when you're right next to it you almost need ear protection because it's shrill.

Thanks for the parts source tips! I don't speak Nissan well.

I used a set of Beckeck Arnley clips last week and didn't have any issues like I've had with other rattle clips. That little spring (if you wanna call it that) was much thicker and less wiry than the last set I used from Advics. I installed ebc green stuff pads and everything fit perfectly with exceptional bite. That generation of Rogue was always known for a soft pedal but ebc rotors and pads fixed it. Did you D&F the rear diff and transfer to see if maybe there's some binding going on that can be rectified? I'm pretty up to date on 15-19 Rogue issues and can't say I've heard much on the couplers, if anything.

 

[D60]

I'm pretty up to date on 15-19 Rogue issues and can't say I've heard much on the couplers, if anything.

Yeah I liked this 'cause it's only 2 minutes and to the point. He went down a similar path thinking it must be rear brakes, but fortunately I ruled out brakes faster than he did (by his account):


I tried to watch the "heat shield" for runout but it spins true, so I don't know what allegedly gets "warped"

This guy has more of a rumble/roar but later says it was from being towed on a conventional tow truck. Much longer and he blathers on a bit too much:


One common theme on aftermarket units seems to be that those holes for the wiring bracket aren't tapped, which makes you wonder what else they missed. As such I'm only willing to quote OEM. Used wouldn't be out of the question if the price is right and they'll offer a ~90 day warranty

Not that it matters but this is the same vehicle where I did the blend door fix (seemed to have heat yesterday, so still working!)

 

[D1dad]

Yeah I liked this 'cause it's only 2 minutes and to the point. He went down a similar path thinking it must be rear brakes, but fortunately I ruled out brakes faster than he did (by his account):


I tried to watch the "heat shield" for runout but it spins true, so I don't know what allegedly gets "warped"

This guy has more of a rumble/roar but later says it was from being towed on a conventional tow truck. Much longer and he blathers on a bit too much:


One common theme on aftermarket units seems to be that those holes for the wiring bracket aren't tapped, which makes you wonder what else they missed. As such I'm only willing to quote OEM. Used wouldn't be out of the question if the price is right and they'll offer a ~90 day warranty

Not that it matters but this is the same vehicle where I did the blend door fix (seemed to have heat yesterday, so still working!)

oof, that's a $2100 part from a dealer! I'd shop used or even aftermarket if there's a decent warranty. I hope I never have to find out.

 

[D1dad]

They all wanted to do that until I gave them a serious twist so they push against the pad ear. At first I wanted to blame aftermarket but dimensionally they're identical to OEM.

If they had just made the leg of the clip a little longer it wouldn't be able to slip out between the pad ear and abutment clip??

I had my wife helping me chase the squeak. It's textbook according to reports: only around ~10-25 MPH. And of course it's intermittent. She kept telling me it's from the rear but it's not from a wheel. At first I dismissed her because it seems to stop when you apply the brakes. But it's intermittent enough you can't be 100%

But then we got it to occur on the lift. I had my face at the rear pinion and it was obviously screaming at me from there -- when you're right next to it you almost need ear protection because it's shrill.

Thanks for the parts source tips! I don't speak Nissan well.

Actually Nissan parts deal has it for $1088. The labor charge would be the deciding factor if I went cheap aftermarket and hoped for the best, or oem and know its going to last. I've had good luck with cheap parts and terrible luck with oem at times. If it's a 2 hr job I'd go cheap. But being my car which is mint and I plan to keep, I'd probably dump the cash

 

[zhaarnak02]

2012 2500HD L96 engine job is complete besides the hood ground strap, Was already broken but I'll fix it anyway.

Picture of the fuel pump connector, Owner says they had a mobile mechanic put a fuel pump in.....Yikes!!!!

Looks like the "Mekboy" used a rock to reconnect that connector. A gold star for whomever guesses what genre "Mekboy" is from (and NO fair using Google)

 

[zhaarnak02]

Diagnosing a neighbors 1999 Kia Sportage. No power to the fuel pump. He was jump starting the rig and hooked up the cables wrong. Blew the 80 amp underhood, main fuse. Replaced the fuse and still have no power to the pump. it WILL run on starting fluid so it didnt totally fry the ecm, but what else got fried?............ Oh JOY.

 

[D60]

Actually Nissan parts deal has it for $1088. The labor charge would be the deciding factor if I went cheap aftermarket and hoped for the best, or oem and know its going to last. I've had good luck with cheap parts and terrible luck with oem at times. If it's a 2 hr job I'd go cheap. But being my car which is mint and I plan to keep, I'd probably dump the cash

Yeah $1100‐ish is what I was seeing.

The second vid says an ebay unit was bad from the get-go. The first vid the customer provided a cheap unit and it worked. In both cases holes weren't tapped.

As a shop I'd only provide OEM or used OEM. If the customer wants to source a cheapie I'll install with understanding ZERO warranty or guarantees

 

[D1dad]

Yeah $1100‐ish is what I was seeing.

The second vid says an ebay unit was bad from the get-go. The first vid the customer provided a cheap unit and it worked. In both cases holes weren't tapped.

As a shop I'd only provide OEM or used OEM. If the customer wants to source a cheapie I'll install with understanding ZERO warranty or guarantees

How many hrs does this call for?

 

[D60]

How many hrs does this call for?

No idea but looks straightforward. I think an hour might even be long if you're familiar with the process. I'd probably bill two and do moderate parts mark-up. And include fresh gear oil in that.

But I'm not staking my reputation on an aftermarket copy. When it fails I look incompetent. If OEM is $1100 and aftermarket is $200, they're cutting corners somewhere:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/256563846267

Also these are prevalent as aftermarket copies, so the failure must be fairly common.....

 

[D1dad]

No idea but looks straightforward. I think an hour might even be long if you're familiar with the process. I'd probably bill two and do moderate parts mark-up. And include fresh gear oil in that.

But I'm not staking my reputation on an aftermarket copy. When it fails I look incompetent. If OEM is $1100 and aftermarket is $200, they're cutting corners somewhere:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/256563846267

Also these are prevalent as aftermarket copies, so the failure must be fairly common.....

I get that and agree. Unfortunately, not everyone has oem $. I slapped a cheap wheel bearing on a car and had it last 100K while the Volvo bearing went bad at 80k. I suppose it would be up to the customer as far as what they want. I doubt that Napa or Oreilleys parts would be any better, but at least they'd have your back on labor I assume

 

[MurkyAsparagus]

The ole' $500 auction Toro Z5000 was due for some new spindles, they were starting to get a tad bit crunchy and wobbly. It started to cut super weird. It's from ~2008, so I guess ~20 years on the same spindles is pretty good.

The new spindles are the cheapest ones I could find on Amazon. They listed a grease zerk, but they definitely don't have one. I really didn't expect them to, most don't unless they are commercial grade ZTRs. Even then, many don't.

Every bolt snapped taking the old ones out. Looking at the deck after pressure washing, it looks like I will be doing some welding and painting this winter.

 

[D60]

Circa 2007 I built this cage for my non-profit.

It's for hauling pterodactyls of course. I just went stupid simple on a latch with lynch pins and it's been fantastic.

Over the years the pins have chewed into the flat bar, and then this allows the door to bang more, accelerating wear....and so on.

I quickly filled the worn area with weld today and slapped on a quick rattle can coat. The door is MUCH more quiet now.

Then grabbed the wife and the pack for a quick scrap run. I was tired of tripping over the old Subaru TR690, my old Branick (RIP), an old Ranger bumper, a bunch of struts and shocks, old BBQ etc

Turns out the old aluminum transmission cooler from a '21 Silverado 1500 baby Dmax pays 80 cents. Because you wanted to know.

The dogs say, "Yay! Scrap run!" They got biscuits at two bank drive thrus and pup cups from Starbucks

Why can't you hear a pterodactyl go to the bathroom? The "p" is silent.

 

[OilStained]

Over the weekend, worked on cleaning the throttle valve, cleaned the MAF sensor, MAP sensor and reusable aFe dry air filter. Also 4 tire rotation.

 

[clinebarger]

2019 Chevy Suburban L83/6L80, Belongs to a forum member. Driver side was a little warmer than the passenger side vent at full cold.
Verified the temp actuator was not moving all the way cold via scan data. Thankfully the actuator was at fault & the door is fine.

LOTS of 7mm headed fasteners & a few Torx fasteners.....My back hurts

The tools I used....Might surprise some how few for this (Passenger Air Bag/Dash Pad).....Requires a lot of disassembly to get to the fasteners.
The Snap-on 7mm impact swivel taped to an extension is a life saver....Put the Milwaukee impact driver on 1 & the torque is just right putting it back together.

The scan data before & after....

 

[Creekside]

New Aisin water pump, thermostat and an off brand radiator for my 94 Tercel. It had been seeping coolant out of the weep hole for 5-6 years and finally gave up about a month ago. We were in the middle of field work at the time so I just ordered parts and parked it until I had time to work on it. Finished off with a quick pressure wash.

This is my local parts runner/errand runner and going to fires car. My turnout gear bag fits perfectly in the trunk. I live nearly in the middle of two of our fire stations so I carry my stuff with me and depending on which direction the call is and what is needed I go to one of the stations or straight to the call. With $5/gallon diesel we can’t dump the station for every little call(and shouldn’t even with cheap fuel).

 

[michaelluscher]

I was summoned to make a spare key/fob for a 2015 Sienna
It's a split year, G/H chip keys, and AT100 Autel chips won't clone H
A dealer key was used
I'll experiment with a different chip clone solution in the future
I should also probably cough up for a key cutting machine, instead of taking it to someone