Cleaned.. the exterior of house, porch, mats, stove, kitchen cabinets, Dewalt vacuum. Think thats all lol. Spent a little time and pulled the starter of the truck. Not pulling the bendix lever down for some reason. If I push it down manually it spins like it should. Cleaned it no difference. I locked it down maybe that’ll do something.. nah. Guess I’ll need to buy a starter just to see if the motors good. Might wash the BMW here in a bit if I have any energy left.
What are you working on today?
- Thread starter Amkeer
- Start date
Added hooks. Lotsa hooks
Not sure, he didn’t include a PowerPoint or PMP…!
AutoMechanic
Site Donor 2026
Did the routine yearly maintenance on the riding mower. Oil change, new air filter, spark plug, fuel filter. As far as I can remember the fuel filter was original but I replaced it and the fuel that came out of it was pitch black.
2011 Explorer: finally finished the valve cover job. This started out as just VC gaskets but turned into entire covers once one cracked on me.
The owner wanted OEM, and in his defense this vehicle has been maintained like it's a mission critical military aircraft.
I find this era of Explorer extremely blase but from a practicality standpoint it's not a terrible investment simply due to the stringent care the vehicle has received.
What I learned here is just replace the entire valve cover(s) on these 3.5s that use plastic. What you spend for the part is saved in labor because they're plug 'n play with all OEM seals already installed.
The VCT and tube seals are press fit, and pressing new seals into plastic that's been baking in an engine bay for ~15 years is dumb.
My bigger problem was that the tube seals had GLUED themselves to the tubes and I had to pry excessively. I finally figured out to use a utility knife to effectively trepan the seals and then snip them off the tubes.
@bdcardinal was extremely helpful with part numbers. The left/front valve cover was on intergalactic backorder but I found one at Sunrise Ford in CA, who happily shipped it.
The owner wanted OEM, and in his defense this vehicle has been maintained like it's a mission critical military aircraft.
I find this era of Explorer extremely blase but from a practicality standpoint it's not a terrible investment simply due to the stringent care the vehicle has received.
What I learned here is just replace the entire valve cover(s) on these 3.5s that use plastic. What you spend for the part is saved in labor because they're plug 'n play with all OEM seals already installed.
The VCT and tube seals are press fit, and pressing new seals into plastic that's been baking in an engine bay for ~15 years is dumb.
My bigger problem was that the tube seals had GLUED themselves to the tubes and I had to pry excessively. I finally figured out to use a utility knife to effectively trepan the seals and then snip them off the tubes.
@bdcardinal was extremely helpful with part numbers. The left/front valve cover was on intergalactic backorder but I found one at Sunrise Ford in CA, who happily shipped it.
Screening dirt for rocks to surround inner garden area
- Joined
- Dec 20, 2022
- Messages
- 630
Trying to get the boat ready to go for the season. Probably nearing 70% fully restored/refurbisbed.
Still have quite a bit on the interior to go. Mainly, I’ve upgraded the sound system after the old head unit fried. New 5 channel amp, subwoofer, etc. I’ll be adding two LiFePO4 batteries, auto charge relay, new cables to and from main battery, etc. I’ll also be 3D printing and adding a new “charging center” where the old head unit used to be. It’ll have a few type c and a ports, 12V cigarette port, aux input, and maybe I’ll add some voltage monitors.
In the future, I’d like to create a virtual electronic dash. I’ll add a few pressure sensors for fluids, voltage monitors, speed gauge, etc on a custom PCB and whatnot connected to an arduino I can access via phone.
Still have quite a bit on the interior to go. Mainly, I’ve upgraded the sound system after the old head unit fried. New 5 channel amp, subwoofer, etc. I’ll be adding two LiFePO4 batteries, auto charge relay, new cables to and from main battery, etc. I’ll also be 3D printing and adding a new “charging center” where the old head unit used to be. It’ll have a few type c and a ports, 12V cigarette port, aux input, and maybe I’ll add some voltage monitors.
In the future, I’d like to create a virtual electronic dash. I’ll add a few pressure sensors for fluids, voltage monitors, speed gauge, etc on a custom PCB and whatnot connected to an arduino I can access via phone.
- Joined
- Oct 31, 2025
- Messages
- 138
M
My eye spies a Autolite starter! THAT photo triggered a neuron that has been sitting quiescent for a very, very, looooooong time.
- Joined
- Oct 31, 2025
- Messages
- 138
Got a kick out of your comment "mission critical military aircraft". My respect for the owner of that vehicle could not be any higher. Those engine internals look like they did when it rolled off the assembly line. Of course, if all owners took this good of care of their vehicles, there would be less work for us wrench dragging individuals.....
Some needed maintenance on the old girl. Coolant flush, brake bleed, tire rotation. Changed the oil before the winter nap. Need to buy a couple litres of Honda MTF and do that next.
I went 120mph in one of those. LONG ago....
2011 Explorer: diag B1212 for LH pretensioner control circuit. Was the big plug under the seat, which is common. These systems seem unnecessarily sensitive because they want just 2.5 ohms but 4 ohms triggers a fault. At least Ford provides good live data from the RCM. Cleaned the connector and used a tiny bit of dielectric (but not the dielectric Ford says you must use)
2013 GMC 2500 Duramax with 316k miles: engine oil change
2013 GMC 2500 Duramax with 316k miles: engine oil change
Finished the upgrades in the cab of my White 2-135 tractor. I bought a UTV sound bar and still need to mount it but for now it will be riding behind the seat.
This tractor had an engine swap from Hercules to a Cummins long before I owned it. Multiple wiring modifications were made at that time. One of those was this 12v solenoid that powered everything in the roof of the cab(lights, HVAC, wiper, accessories, etc.) and is controlled by the key switch. The issue I had was the 10 gauge wire was too small for the amperage and distance and lack of circuit protection. It was supplied by a roughly 1/0 jumper from the starter terminal to the solenoid then 10ga out of the solenoid up into the cab. A short circuit would likely have burnt the tractor down. I ran a new 6ga power wire up to a new terminal strip and added a 50amp circuit breaker to protect it. I cleaned up some of the wiring connections around the starter area but there’s still much more work to be done. I just cut and abandoned the old 10ga wire in the harness.
Got my backup camera installed of the back of the round baler. This will allow me to see the bale condition as soon as I close the tailgate. You can’t see behind you so unless there is an issue that faults out on the monitor you don’t know you have a problem until you turn at the end of the field. This will help when traveling on the road as well.
This tractor had an engine swap from Hercules to a Cummins long before I owned it. Multiple wiring modifications were made at that time. One of those was this 12v solenoid that powered everything in the roof of the cab(lights, HVAC, wiper, accessories, etc.) and is controlled by the key switch. The issue I had was the 10 gauge wire was too small for the amperage and distance and lack of circuit protection. It was supplied by a roughly 1/0 jumper from the starter terminal to the solenoid then 10ga out of the solenoid up into the cab. A short circuit would likely have burnt the tractor down. I ran a new 6ga power wire up to a new terminal strip and added a 50amp circuit breaker to protect it. I cleaned up some of the wiring connections around the starter area but there’s still much more work to be done. I just cut and abandoned the old 10ga wire in the harness.
Got my backup camera installed of the back of the round baler. This will allow me to see the bale condition as soon as I close the tailgate. You can’t see behind you so unless there is an issue that faults out on the monitor you don’t know you have a problem until you turn at the end of the field. This will help when traveling on the road as well.
It’s been a minute since I last saw a 23 channel CB. Nice work on that tractor!
I dug through my stash and this was a nice period correct radio that surprisingly still works really well. I had planned to buy a new radio but couldn’t help but use this. They see limited use-just tractor to tractor in the field for a couple months a year. I have a President Bill in my two other cab tractors and my Tercel.
Sampled the dirt in the front yard. Got the pH better but N and P were low and zero. I’d thrown granules 6 weeks ago - it’s like they aren’t even there?? Bought some liquid stuff that goes on the end of the hose and sprayed that - the lawn hasn’t been looking too good this year.
Finished the deck replacement on the ariens zoom 34 and it cut better and ran better. It’s 13-14 years old and I’d love to get to 18 and a bit further. The hydros are happier with the amsoil 20-50 hydro gear oil than whatever was in there before. Left the truck outside and have the mower in its bay on the ctech; I can hear it pushing into desulfate mode, so I may leave it there this week.
Applied griots new version of their rain-x equivalent, now it’s a different formulation and claims some sort of ceramic stuff. The instructions are rather specific but I followed them and am pleased with the results.
Started digging in the back yard to maybe one day have a level spot for a shed. Started the old fashioned way with a shovel. It’s great exercise, and at this rate will be level in 2028 for a 8-10 or so. It’s so slow.
Skipped my normal Sunday morning routine and instead sat outside with some related reading material for 4.5 hours and very much enjoyed it.
Finished the deck replacement on the ariens zoom 34 and it cut better and ran better. It’s 13-14 years old and I’d love to get to 18 and a bit further. The hydros are happier with the amsoil 20-50 hydro gear oil than whatever was in there before. Left the truck outside and have the mower in its bay on the ctech; I can hear it pushing into desulfate mode, so I may leave it there this week.
Applied griots new version of their rain-x equivalent, now it’s a different formulation and claims some sort of ceramic stuff. The instructions are rather specific but I followed them and am pleased with the results.
Started digging in the back yard to maybe one day have a level spot for a shed. Started the old fashioned way with a shovel. It’s great exercise, and at this rate will be level in 2028 for a 8-10 or so. It’s so slow.
Skipped my normal Sunday morning routine and instead sat outside with some related reading material for 4.5 hours and very much enjoyed it.
Nice! As long as the antenna connection stays good and doesn’t reflect signal back into the unit, about the only things that go wrong are the mic buttons and cable, especially near the jack. Good ole analog AM radio!
Front brakes on the '07 Civic I sold last year
Shame it had 8mm of pad left, but warped and rusted to hell
I used a Bosch Quietcast kit, and it was smooth sailing
The MAPP torch and a JIS impact driver got the rotor screws out with minor effort
I tried spraying the hubs with Fluid Film, which nearly gave me a heart attack when it flung out into the barrel of the wheel
I thought I blew a line
Next time I'll do what I usually do, grease or anti seize on the hub bore
One new caliper, flushed the fluid to both, and a fresh set of lug nuts
No longer rattles your teeth out slowing from ~15 mph
His main complaint was a squeaking/grinding noise, which I couldn't always replicate
But glazed and rusted surfaces riding against each other do weird things
Pistons and pins weren't stuck, but the pads were tight in the bracket
Pedal feel is much firmer, I'll pay closer attention to rotor condition when people ask about a brake job
The other 2010 Civic that the neighbor kid has with the cracked coils responded nicely to new Denso (Japan) coils and NGK Laser Iridium (Japan) plugs
No more misfires under load
Quick OCI and CAF on the other neighbors '20 QX60
I loathe the CAF on most Nissans
A most productive weekend
Shame it had 8mm of pad left, but warped and rusted to hell
I used a Bosch Quietcast kit, and it was smooth sailing
The MAPP torch and a JIS impact driver got the rotor screws out with minor effort
I tried spraying the hubs with Fluid Film, which nearly gave me a heart attack when it flung out into the barrel of the wheel
I thought I blew a line
Next time I'll do what I usually do, grease or anti seize on the hub bore
One new caliper, flushed the fluid to both, and a fresh set of lug nuts
No longer rattles your teeth out slowing from ~15 mph
His main complaint was a squeaking/grinding noise, which I couldn't always replicate
But glazed and rusted surfaces riding against each other do weird things
Pistons and pins weren't stuck, but the pads were tight in the bracket
Pedal feel is much firmer, I'll pay closer attention to rotor condition when people ask about a brake job
The other 2010 Civic that the neighbor kid has with the cracked coils responded nicely to new Denso (Japan) coils and NGK Laser Iridium (Japan) plugs
No more misfires under load
Quick OCI and CAF on the other neighbors '20 QX60
I loathe the CAF on most Nissans
A most productive weekend
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M
My eye spies a Autolite starter! THAT photo triggered a neuron that has been sitting quiescent for a very, very, looooooong time.
it is the original starterDid some work on MIL’a husband’s 2013 Tacoma with the V6.
New NGK Laser Iridium spark plugs, Hengst Air filter, Denso cabin air filter, and an oil change. I put the battery on the Optimate 3+ and it charged for about 4 hours. He doesn’t often drive very far.
New NGK Laser Iridium spark plugs, Hengst Air filter, Denso cabin air filter, and an oil change. I put the battery on the Optimate 3+ and it charged for about 4 hours. He doesn’t often drive very far.