Replaced the alternator and serpentine belt on the 2011 Buick. Couple times lately the <1 yr old battery has drained down, and I've seen inconsistent voltage in the dash readout. One day last week drove to work and only saw 12.5-12.6v, another day saw 14.3v the whole trip. Sometimes it's been in the 13s, but something has been off. Immediately after new one was installed it went to 14.7-14.8v, and drove 20mi this morning and it held 14.6-14.7v. GM part made by Valeo was identical to the original that came off.
What are you working on today?
- Thread starter Amkeer
- Start date
2018 Suburban rear brakes started squealing. Rear discs with integrated parking-brake drum.
Ordered new pads/rotors, easy peasy…but note to self, make sure the parking brake is deactivated before attempting to remove the rotor with a sledgehammer…
Thankfully this popped into my head as I was walking toward the truck with the BFH
Ordered new pads/rotors, easy peasy…but note to self, make sure the parking brake is deactivated before attempting to remove the rotor with a sledgehammer…
Thankfully this popped into my head as I was walking toward the truck with the BFH
Used the lathe to put line on a new reel.
Replaced the battery in our neighbor's 200k mile 2017 Traverse. I guess it left her stranded the other night, so she had it towed home and asked me if I could look at it.
I pulled the access panel and threw my battery tester on the posts: 63% health, 12.03v. Yep, looks pretty shot to me. We had to go to town to take care of our own errands, so we popped into Walmart and grabbed an Everstart Maxx H6 for $139. Got it installed and did a parasitic draw test just to be thorough, settled at 20 mA after 15 minutes or so. Good enough for me. The old battery was an AC Delco 48HPG, the only date I could find on the case read 21/10/16 which to me reads as October 21, 2016. The build date of the truck is 10/16, but I find it incredibly hard to believe that this thing had the original battery after 9.5 years and 200k miles. Anyone else with a Traverse replaced their stock battery and happen to remember what it was?
Spent the rest of the afternoon cleaning the house and redoing some failed caulking around the tub.
I pulled the access panel and threw my battery tester on the posts: 63% health, 12.03v. Yep, looks pretty shot to me. We had to go to town to take care of our own errands, so we popped into Walmart and grabbed an Everstart Maxx H6 for $139. Got it installed and did a parasitic draw test just to be thorough, settled at 20 mA after 15 minutes or so. Good enough for me. The old battery was an AC Delco 48HPG, the only date I could find on the case read 21/10/16 which to me reads as October 21, 2016. The build date of the truck is 10/16, but I find it incredibly hard to believe that this thing had the original battery after 9.5 years and 200k miles. Anyone else with a Traverse replaced their stock battery and happen to remember what it was?
Spent the rest of the afternoon cleaning the house and redoing some failed caulking around the tub.
Changed the oil on my Aunt's Outlander.
Previous shop that did it, I actually use for tires and state inspections. I never mind going behind them as the drain plug was properly torqued and the filter came off by hand. It did have some goofy aftermarket drain plug and plastic washer on it. I had an OEM plug and the correct aluminum washers in my tool box so those went on. Removed some odd size made in China Napa filter. Installed a Baldwin and Advance Auto in house brand Argos 0w20.
Also, because it's a Subaru, I had to add some oil to the WRX
Previous shop that did it, I actually use for tires and state inspections. I never mind going behind them as the drain plug was properly torqued and the filter came off by hand. It did have some goofy aftermarket drain plug and plastic washer on it. I had an OEM plug and the correct aluminum washers in my tool box so those went on. Removed some odd size made in China Napa filter. Installed a Baldwin and Advance Auto in house brand Argos 0w20.
Also, because it's a Subaru, I had to add some oil to the WRX
EVAP Hades on an '01 4Runner. I needed the canister solenoid which was apparently unique to '01 and '02....mounted on the canister above the spare tire with just enough crossmembers in the way to make it annoying.
The solenoid is anchored by a tiny phillips screw because what could go wrong with that????
The screw was totally locked up and despite quality drivers and lots of pressure, it wasn't moving. Score one for my M12 belt file which snuck up there to sand the head off!
I also wanted to smoke the tank as reportedly the overfill valve and/or filler neck likes to crack on these. I couldn't get a good seal with my cone but had a '94 Toyota out back in White Trash Amusement Park (tickets available now). I drilled it out until my cone just wedged in there, and it worked beautifully.
Then, randomly sold a transmission R&R on the basket case 2005 Ram with 300k miles. I specifically warned him his motor (5.7 Hemi) may die at any second and reco'd just getting a new truck, but he wants to proceed. At least I did my due diligence and my conscience is clear.
The solenoid is anchored by a tiny phillips screw because what could go wrong with that????
The screw was totally locked up and despite quality drivers and lots of pressure, it wasn't moving. Score one for my M12 belt file which snuck up there to sand the head off!
I also wanted to smoke the tank as reportedly the overfill valve and/or filler neck likes to crack on these. I couldn't get a good seal with my cone but had a '94 Toyota out back in White Trash Amusement Park (tickets available now). I drilled it out until my cone just wedged in there, and it worked beautifully.
Then, randomly sold a transmission R&R on the basket case 2005 Ram with 300k miles. I specifically warned him his motor (5.7 Hemi) may die at any second and reco'd just getting a new truck, but he wants to proceed. At least I did my due diligence and my conscience is clear.
If that's like the '15 3.6 I just serviced, I hate that engine cover. Unless you know to only pull up the rear and then slide forward you're gonna break it.Changed the oil on my Aunt's Outlander.
Previous shop that did it, I actually use for tires and state inspections. I never mind going behind them as the drain plug was properly torqued and the filter came off by hand. It did have some goofy aftermarket drain plug and plastic washer on it. I had an OEM plug and the correct aluminum washers in my tool box so those went on. Removed some odd size made in China Napa filter. Installed a Baldwin and Advance Auto in house brand Argos 0w20.
Also, because it's a Subaru, I had to add some oil to the WRX
It's like the secret Subaru handshake, which is not a club I wanna be in....sorta like NAMBLA
If that's like the '15 3.6 I just serviced, I hate that engine cover. Unless you know to only pull up the rear and then slide forward you're gonna break it.
It's like the secret Subaru handshake, which is not a club I wanna be in....sorta like NAMBLA
I've already broken the corner of it
It's epoxied together, but mostly held together with hopes and prayers!
Picked up the Nissan Hardbody flywheel first thing this mourning, Just need to do the interior stuff, Stopped taking pics after the clutch disc/pressure plate install. Needed to bust out a Dodge Pentastar misfire diag......Bad cam/follower.
Installed new lights on my 5x10 utility trailer that a friend and I built back in 2001. It still had the lights on it that I installed back then. I upgraded to all new LED lights and wire. The new lights are much brighter.
2001 Explorer Sport Trac. Kind of a cool vehicle. 150k freedom and well cared for. Driven by a very recently widowed elderly lady.
Vehicle presented with misfires on #1. As an aside, my Otofix could get nothing on manufacturer side and I had to use generic OBD (which was fine).
She had had plugs and wires done 26k ago so it seemed odd to me we'd have an issue there. I believe these are waste spark (?) so my understanding is that if it were coil you'd probably see misfires on 2 cylinders.
I noted the plug wire for #1 wasn't routed very well. It didn't seem to be excessively chafing anywhere (yet) but the awkward routing put the boot in a bind, and it seemed to take a permanent set.
I had to pull with excessive force to get the boot off the plug, and noted what appeared to be red powder in the boot -- rust?? I guess?? It was sorta mixed with old dielectric so I'm not sure if the previous shop maybe used a deep red grease (????) or this was truly rust powder.
I checked the wire and NO continuity at all. Now, I don't know if this was from damage during removal or if it had zero continuity before I touched it.
I pulled the #1 plug (not that easy on these motors) and they're just copper NGK. Gap was .058 while spec is .052-.056. I doubt 2 thou matters but I re-gapped while I had it in-hand.
I'm a little disappointed the previous shop used nickel because theoretically she needs new plugs in another 4k miles (presently 26k on these). That said, I'm going to tell her she can go longer and we'll monitor for misfires.
While not COP these are DIS and I think it would tolerate iridiums well? Also #2 and #3 look miserable -- I'd sooner do a Subaru boxer.
I had a spare plug wire out back on an '07 Ranger, so I swapped that on. It's the later design as there was apparently a break in 7/24/00 but it doesn't seem to matter.
Successful test drive this morning with no more misfires recorded in Mode 6, including "lugging it" up several grades in OD....so I'm calling it plenty good for a widow on a budget!!
Vehicle presented with misfires on #1. As an aside, my Otofix could get nothing on manufacturer side and I had to use generic OBD (which was fine).
She had had plugs and wires done 26k ago so it seemed odd to me we'd have an issue there. I believe these are waste spark (?) so my understanding is that if it were coil you'd probably see misfires on 2 cylinders.
I noted the plug wire for #1 wasn't routed very well. It didn't seem to be excessively chafing anywhere (yet) but the awkward routing put the boot in a bind, and it seemed to take a permanent set.
I had to pull with excessive force to get the boot off the plug, and noted what appeared to be red powder in the boot -- rust?? I guess?? It was sorta mixed with old dielectric so I'm not sure if the previous shop maybe used a deep red grease (????) or this was truly rust powder.
I checked the wire and NO continuity at all. Now, I don't know if this was from damage during removal or if it had zero continuity before I touched it.
I pulled the #1 plug (not that easy on these motors) and they're just copper NGK. Gap was .058 while spec is .052-.056. I doubt 2 thou matters but I re-gapped while I had it in-hand.
I'm a little disappointed the previous shop used nickel because theoretically she needs new plugs in another 4k miles (presently 26k on these). That said, I'm going to tell her she can go longer and we'll monitor for misfires.
While not COP these are DIS and I think it would tolerate iridiums well? Also #2 and #3 look miserable -- I'd sooner do a Subaru boxer.
I had a spare plug wire out back on an '07 Ranger, so I swapped that on. It's the later design as there was apparently a break in 7/24/00 but it doesn't seem to matter.
Successful test drive this morning with no more misfires recorded in Mode 6, including "lugging it" up several grades in OD....so I'm calling it plenty good for a widow on a budget!!
Haven cleaned the throttle body on the Pilot in 60K miles. Did it at 30K. Wasn’t terrible but had to erase the check engine light three times to clear the throttle body code. Did the relearn by running it at 3K RPM.
Pulled the plugs on the 86 f150 5.0. Put in a mixture of pb blaster and atf. Was going to turn it over via starter but the good cables are 50 miles away and no battery I felt like pulling. Put the crank bolt in and rotated it manually. Figured out why it died.. we put the factory battery from the Focus in it. Curse of the Focus lol. Good-bad news is the fuel pump still works, unhooked the hose from the fuel filter before hooking it up. Smells awful in the backyard!
Wash, 3 part wax, tire shine, ceramic treat the glass! Get yourself a big duffel bag with supplies and enjoy some fun in the sun!
Changed the oil and filter on my 2014 Mustang GT today. I've been using Motorcraft 5w-20 blend since it was new. I changed over to Motorcraft 5W-30 blend. I've always used the Motorcraft FL 500s filter on it. Car just turned over 41,000 miles.
I looked down inside the oil fill cap and it is perfectly clean inside. Looks brand new with no varnish or discoloration on the metal parts. Motorcraft seems to be keeping it very clean. I usually change the oil between 3-5,000 miles since the car is not a daily driver. I had not changed the oil since Oct of 2024 and only drove about 2,500 miles.
I looked down inside the oil fill cap and it is perfectly clean inside. Looks brand new with no varnish or discoloration on the metal parts. Motorcraft seems to be keeping it very clean. I usually change the oil between 3-5,000 miles since the car is not a daily driver. I had not changed the oil since Oct of 2024 and only drove about 2,500 miles.
Just finished reassembling the deck on my old Cr@psman mower. One new spindle assembly and the other spindle got new Chinesium bearings. I'm letting the old blades ride for another season as the molehills just chew them up anyway.
Today was one of the most stressful days I've had in a long time. In the course of replacing the canister vent solenoid on an '01 4Runner, I had KOEO for bidirectional testing, and the vehicle was on a power supply.
At one point it randomly started running the fuel pump. I wasn't even doing anything with my Otofix/Autel at the time, and I certainly wasn't in the fuel pump command section.
At first I cycled the key and this remedied the problem. Later it would start running the pump again and cycling the key did nothing -- the pump would just resume at KOEO.
In hindsight I heard some clicking from the engine bay, but I was laser focused on the solenoid at the rear of the vehicle above the spare tire. I had no idea why the pump was running, but as I was on a power supply I didn't much care.
I finished up the solenoid and changed the engine oil as requested. When I went to start it it sure seemed like the starter wanted to spin the motor but simply couldn't get more than a revolution or two.
It really struck me as hydrolocking and I thought back to the weirdness earlier. Before potentially damaging something (further) I decided to pull the plugs. Sure enough, each cylinder had a lot of fuel.
I cranked with all 6 plugs removed and a wall of fuel blew out of both valve covers.
Like an idiot I replaced all the plugs and she spun like no compression. This seemed odd because if I'd bent something in one or two cylinders, I'd hear a changing cadence.
I pulled all the plugs again and after squirting in quite a bit of motor oil was able to get all cylinders from ~60 to 135-150.
She drives great and it would seem disaster was averted but I'm wondering if anyone else has ever seen early 2000s Toyotas run the pump continuously AND fire all injectors at KOEO? Was this my Otofix/Autel -- maybe but it wouldn't do it EVERY time the scanner was plugged in.
@Trav @14Accent @The Critic @Timmastertech -- ever seen something this bizarre?
The lesson for me is to never ignore a fuel pump that keeps running inexplicably. You could try to determine if the injectors are actually firing, but to be safe in the future I'll just find a way to disable (a runaway) fuel pump unless it's the thing being diagnosed.
I never thought a vehicle could try to commit suicide just by having the key on, but now I know better.
Oh and yeah, I changed the oil AGAIN after having JUST done it!!
At one point it randomly started running the fuel pump. I wasn't even doing anything with my Otofix/Autel at the time, and I certainly wasn't in the fuel pump command section.
At first I cycled the key and this remedied the problem. Later it would start running the pump again and cycling the key did nothing -- the pump would just resume at KOEO.
In hindsight I heard some clicking from the engine bay, but I was laser focused on the solenoid at the rear of the vehicle above the spare tire. I had no idea why the pump was running, but as I was on a power supply I didn't much care.
I finished up the solenoid and changed the engine oil as requested. When I went to start it it sure seemed like the starter wanted to spin the motor but simply couldn't get more than a revolution or two.
It really struck me as hydrolocking and I thought back to the weirdness earlier. Before potentially damaging something (further) I decided to pull the plugs. Sure enough, each cylinder had a lot of fuel.
I cranked with all 6 plugs removed and a wall of fuel blew out of both valve covers.
Like an idiot I replaced all the plugs and she spun like no compression. This seemed odd because if I'd bent something in one or two cylinders, I'd hear a changing cadence.
I pulled all the plugs again and after squirting in quite a bit of motor oil was able to get all cylinders from ~60 to 135-150.
She drives great and it would seem disaster was averted but I'm wondering if anyone else has ever seen early 2000s Toyotas run the pump continuously AND fire all injectors at KOEO? Was this my Otofix/Autel -- maybe but it wouldn't do it EVERY time the scanner was plugged in.
@Trav @14Accent @The Critic @Timmastertech -- ever seen something this bizarre?
The lesson for me is to never ignore a fuel pump that keeps running inexplicably. You could try to determine if the injectors are actually firing, but to be safe in the future I'll just find a way to disable (a runaway) fuel pump unless it's the thing being diagnosed.
I never thought a vehicle could try to commit suicide just by having the key on, but now I know better.
Oh and yeah, I changed the oil AGAIN after having JUST done it!!
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2014 Forester
Horn did not work when airbag was pressed. Horn worked fine from the key fob. Performed the resistance test as outlined and it failed. Replaced the roll connector and horn is working properly again.
Horn did not work when airbag was pressed. Horn worked fine from the key fob. Performed the resistance test as outlined and it failed. Replaced the roll connector and horn is working properly again.