What are you working on today?

the engine and transmission become the frame. On many John Deere Ag tractors the oil pan is a structural member. Very different than automotive.
YEP! Same for my old 9N. Oil pan is cast iron and has LOTS of retaining bolts. I bet the darn thing weighs a LOT!
 
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@D60 she passed with flying colors. 32 horsepower and 320 lb. ft. of torque @ 540 PTO rpm. Excellent results.
 
How was the Tundra? Looks pretty straightforward? I need to do vc gaskets on at least three of them.
Not bad. We got everything from a Toyota parts supplier this time. Last time I used a fel pro gasket set, it didn't come with all the seals needed for the vvt oil tubes.
How was the Tundra? Looks pretty straightforward? I need to do vc gaskets on at least three of them.
 
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Speaking of tractors, I'm trying to figure something out and you might be a good person to ask!

My Grandparents have owned a 1951 Ford tractor for 40+ years. It's pretty beat but it runs and I converted it to 12v alternator/negative ground about 15 years ago for Gramps (it was originally 6v/positive ground). However, they are selling their farm and need to sell the tractor soon. Where would you even go to sell something like this? Just craigslist/marketplace like you would a car?
I would start with FB Marketplace. You might even want to put it by the road with a sign...? Other options would be the internet site Bring a Trailer. I would start with FB Marketplace.
 
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@D60 she passed with flying colors. 32 horsepower and 320 lb. ft. of torque @ 540 PTO rpm. Excellent results.
Crazy 10:1 on torque to hp. It has always amazed me how a farm tractor can be like ~100hp and pull those big plows and planters. Just goes to show you that torque is what does the work really.
 
Speaking of tractors, I'm trying to figure something out and you might be a good person to ask!

My Grandparents have owned a 1951 Ford tractor for 40+ years. It's pretty beat but it runs and I converted it to 12v alternator/negative ground about 15 years ago for Gramps (it was originally 6v/positive ground). However, they are selling their farm and need to sell the tractor soon. Where would you even go to sell something like this? Just craigslist/marketplace like you would a car?
Got my 8N off of FB marketplace. Running but with battle scars, and 12v converted, is listed around here for $1,000-1,200. Mine was non-running and was half that. But the gas tank was good and all the fluids were there and not bad, hopefully running this weekend. Good tires makes it worth more.
 
I would start with FB Marketplace. You might even want to put it by the road with a sign...? Other options would be the internet site Bring a Trailer. I would start with FB Marketplace.
Thanks! I'll put it on Marketplace/Craigslist and see what happens.

I hadn't thought about BaT! I did a quick search, looks like they're all a lot nicer than ours and didn't really go for that much. So maybe we will ask $1,500 and hope to get $1,000 out of it or something like that. https://bringatrailer.com/ford/tractor/

Thanks for your input!

Got my 8N off of FB marketplace. Running but with battle scars, and 12v converted, is listed around here for $1,000-1,200. Mine was non-running and was half that. But the gas tank was good and all the fluids were there and not bad, hopefully running this weekend. Good tires makes it worth more.
Thanks that's very helpful!
 
Replaced a faulty socket switch in my bedside lamp. It's just a simple push on/off. I had a heck of a time finding a replacement switch with a 1/4 IPT thread. Ace Hardware - nothing. HD says they have them in stock; Aisle 47, Bay 16 - they lied. Nothing but 1/8 IPT.

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I found the needed threaded socket on Chinazon, but it was a 3-way twist switch. I just used the 1/4 IPT base from this one, and purchased an 1/8 IPT push on/off socket and used the switch from it.

Why did I need a new 1/4 IPT base? I had to destroy the existing one to get the switch apart to access the cord connections. "Just get a new socket. They're all the same." Yeah, right. 🫤
 
Did a scrap run "date" with the wife yesterday. Bailing tin is at 4 cents per lb which is pretty darn good for this area (read: nowhere near a coast, port or interstate)

We had about 1000 lbs of bailing tin, a couple bags of pop cans, a couple rotors (cast) and one radiator. Got $67 total then went out to eat. Better than throwing steel in the dumpster AFAIC
 
Added a dual temp gauge to the boat using tee fittings and a ton of 20 ga wire. These are tied in to the oil cooler. I figured the water flow went through the block and then the oil cooler but it is direct from the pickup. Temps are only registering around 100F. I need to relocate them to the rear of the engines at the thermostat outlet. Doh.

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2014 CRV: serviced transmission with VaML, serviced rear diff with the magical Dual Pump Fluid, replaced plugs w NGK and both engine & cabin air filters.

The left side fun house mirror on this CRV gives me a headache....like actually hurts my eyes. It's like 85% normal mirror and 15% convex on the far edge.

The replacement TR690 CVT for a '15 Outback arrived today via freight, so I get to pull a Subaru transmission tomorrow I guess
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Yesterday.....2013 Yukon XL 6.2L/6L80, Hard to fill the fuel tank & vent valve performance DTC, EVAP cannister had exploded & sent charcoal throughout the system, New EVAP cannister & Vent valve....Took awhile to clean out the tank, & purge line!

Diag on a 2016 Honda Pilot....
P0430...Bank 2 Catalyst
P0455, P0456...Evap Leak DTC's & a P0497 for low purge flow.
Purge solenoid tested good, Found the filler neck (capless) was leaking.
Needs a timing belt as well (160,xxx miles), Owner just couldn't afford the full job so I replaced just the belt & tensioner.
**The IR Powersocket sure helps with the crank bolt!

Got the timing cover installed on the 2V 4.6L while waiting on Honda parts this morning.

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Got our truck back from the mechanic. Very reasonably priced, especially considering the cost of the new control arm. Quite happy.

So, the fight will continue this spring as I do the 48-11 transfer case service (I have 2 types of conventional 30 weight THF to choose from) and then the transmission.

I still have plans to tear the passenger side down, fingers crossed that the spline is not badly seized.
 
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Got our truck back from the mechanic. Very reasonably priced, especially considering the cost of the new control arm. Quite happy.

I still have plans to tear the passenger side down, fingers crossed that the spline is not badly seized.
Maybe ya can learn something
 
2014 Ram 1500:

Right tail light inop. Fuses checked out so started tracing wiring. I noticed the left front inner fender was damaged and the WSS wiring was ripped. It looked like maybe a tire had let go. Someone had cut a weird access hole in the inner fender for a large connector at the rear of the wheelwell.

I left the lights on, wiggled that connector and the taillight would flicker. Turns out connector was broken but zip ties are working for now.

Truck had aftermarket wheels but still using 21mm hex lug nuts. Only a 3/8" chrome would fit. Swapped for spline lugnuts.

Then changed engine oil w 10W30 hoping to quiet a considerable Hemi tick, but didn't seem to do much.
 
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