I really like Enkei products. The Prius gets gold treatment!!
What are you working on today?
- Thread starter Amkeer
- Start date
I was pleasantly surprised with the fit of the Murray from O'Reilly. I've had two really bad experiences with aftermarket rads where critical mounting points were significantly off, so I always hold my breath.
The existing rad appeared OEM based upon the Mopar sticker (about 155k miles...but 1999)
It had developed a hairline crack in the right tank. While the upper hose is immediately photo left, the bubbles were not coming from under the rad hose but rather straight thru the plastic tank, exactly at arrow
Years ago I had a AM rad delivered UPS. Come home find it on the porch. With a size 10 boot print right in the middle of the box.
Remove from box - looks ok - so I installed it. Leaked like a maniac.
Returned for replacement, actually without hassle as I recall. Would have made a good photo montage but this is even before digital cameras let alone cell phones.
Remove from box - looks ok - so I installed it. Leaked like a maniac.
Returned for replacement, actually without hassle as I recall. Would have made a good photo montage but this is even before digital cameras let alone cell phones.
- Joined
- Oct 31, 2025
- Messages
- 138
1958, Good year thatt was. That was the year I was "delivered" from the "assembly line"
- Joined
- Oct 31, 2025
- Messages
- 138
"Unhappy"? DANG! I would even go so far as saying "Mildly Irritated". I have been there, done that entirely too many times, so bad that you had to fight like beejesus to even get them to move a micron. It looks like the "structural integrity" of your driveshaft "may" be "slightly" less than what the OEM may have planned for.
Got an update on our 2020 Ram 1500 DT. He had to torch off the bearing and the 20 ton press wouldn't budge the corrosion. The lower ball joint had play, which might be partially my fault from the beatings I laid. Regardless, no individual ball joints available locally, so a new lower control arm is on order.
Hindsight, I should have just took the whole lower control arm off with everything as one unit and taken that to the shop. All because Ram doesn't use any corrosion inhibitor. Apparently the steel bearing was glued to the aluminum knuckle.
Hindsight, I should have just took the whole lower control arm off with everything as one unit and taken that to the shop. All because Ram doesn't use any corrosion inhibitor. Apparently the steel bearing was glued to the aluminum knuckle.
2011 Toyota Tundra with a 5.7 V8 got valve cover gaskets and oil seals, spark plugs, ignition coils, air filter and an oil change
2010 Chevrolet Silverado with a 4.3 Vortec V6 got an oil change, left front wheel hub, a good wash and detail, then sold
2016 Chevrolet Silverado with a 5.3 got spark plugs, two ignition coils, spark plug wires, air filter, oil change, tire rotation and front brake rotors and pads.
That's really the only automotive work I've done the last few weeks.
2010 Chevrolet Silverado with a 4.3 Vortec V6 got an oil change, left front wheel hub, a good wash and detail, then sold
2016 Chevrolet Silverado with a 5.3 got spark plugs, two ignition coils, spark plug wires, air filter, oil change, tire rotation and front brake rotors and pads.
That's really the only automotive work I've done the last few weeks.
How was the Tundra? Looks pretty straightforward? I need to do vc gaskets on at least three of them.
Progress on the 2V 4.6L....
Aaaaand of course I forgot to take the sample as it was draining...
Split a JD 3039R yesterday to replace a failing torsion damper. The old one was just about shot, the springs would rattle something fierce on startup and shut down. Going to slap her on the PTO dyno later this afternoon and see just what she can put down.
I didn't know a PTO dyno was a thing!
And I continue to be mystified by tractors. The lack of a frame just seems weird for a "beast of burden." Granted, it clearly works but I still struggle to wrap my tiny brain around it.
Our GE microwave from 2012 started shutting down-SHUTTING DOWN after it would finish its timer. Interior light, EVERYTHING would go dead. It would then come back after an undetermined amount of time.
I also noticed if I unplugged it it would need some time to come back to life, causing me to wonder about a weak capacitor or timed switch or ..... ?
Sometimes if I banged on it it would come back to life with a garbled screen. All this to say I suspected the control board.
I managed to find the part # for my model but of course long since disco duck. I set up an ebay search and a brand new board popped up as NOS. I gave $170 for it which might be high, but it's kinda difficult to determine market value on discontinued electronics. There are many similar models but most had fewer buttons than mine on the control pad, so it seemed unlikely to find the EXACT board I needed for a 2012 microwave. Thus, perhaps $170 wasn't terrible.
Anyway, initial tests are promising. The problem seems cured but I'll know more after a couple days.
Nothing like a little kitchen counter wrenching, complete with a Carlyle screwdriver and picks from GM Performance, Gearwrench and Husky
A nice bonus is that the LCD is WAY brighter (let's ignore how disgusting the keypad looks in the photo)
I also noticed if I unplugged it it would need some time to come back to life, causing me to wonder about a weak capacitor or timed switch or ..... ?
Sometimes if I banged on it it would come back to life with a garbled screen. All this to say I suspected the control board.
I managed to find the part # for my model but of course long since disco duck. I set up an ebay search and a brand new board popped up as NOS. I gave $170 for it which might be high, but it's kinda difficult to determine market value on discontinued electronics. There are many similar models but most had fewer buttons than mine on the control pad, so it seemed unlikely to find the EXACT board I needed for a 2012 microwave. Thus, perhaps $170 wasn't terrible.
Anyway, initial tests are promising. The problem seems cured but I'll know more after a couple days.
Nothing like a little kitchen counter wrenching, complete with a Carlyle screwdriver and picks from GM Performance, Gearwrench and Husky
A nice bonus is that the LCD is WAY brighter (let's ignore how disgusting the keypad looks in the photo)
Speaking of tractors, I'm trying to figure something out and you might be a good person to ask!
My Grandparents have owned a 1951 Ford tractor for 40+ years. It's pretty beat but it runs and I converted it to 12v alternator/negative ground about 15 years ago for Gramps (it was originally 6v/positive ground). However, they are selling their farm and need to sell the tractor soon. Where would you even go to sell something like this? Just craigslist/marketplace like you would a car?
Oh I know. It's just crazy to me. Again, it obviously works, so ya can't argue with results
I guess some of it is space saving. A frame -- even fully boxed -- would likely have to be much wider to maintain any appreciable rigidity. This would get in the way of tires and FEL arms and maybe even the 3pt