What are you working on today?

I had a couple of back surgeries in November, which have put a crimp in my automotive maintenance/repair/modification plans. So far the most I’ve done since is change the air filters on the C43. I ordered Mahle filters from FCP Euro- $52.34 delivered. The OEM filters that I removed were also made by Mahle, with the only difference being the new filters lacked “Mercedes-Benz” printed next to the part number.
At 52,700 miles it does look like changing them was warranted.
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Took a few minutes to put a 90-degree plug on the newly installed power strip.

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Started cleaning out all the half used/no and unopened, no longer needed chemicals around the garage. I'll be taking these items to the hazardous waste drop-off near the Stockton airport. What's nice about the facility, is they go through and put usable chemicals in a free for the taking area.

I also unearthed an Aisin timing belt kit, new Aisin oil pump for the long gone '87 2.0L Camry. I'd love to find another 2nd Gen, 4-cylinder Camry.
 
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Not familiar with an "eraser wheel." Is this what you're referencing?

https://www.amazon.com/eraser-wheel/s?k=eraser+wheel
I've got the real deal 3M and a cheap import (maybe ABN?). They both have their place.

99% of what I do is adhesive removal from the stupid GMT900 door guards that always peel and look horrible. With adhesive, get plastic razor blades and scrape off all you can first. Heat may help with scraping, too
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You want a quality drill. These will tax the gear case in light duty cordless drills -- and the dust ain't great either. Wear a respirator
 
Our '15 Tundra has aftermarket Fuel alloys and I had just randomly ordered some spline nuts on Amazon.

I noticed that while they never loosened up, my impact barely had to work at all to remove them, even if torqued to 145 ft lbs. I figure it's because there's minimal contact patch on the lugnut, and decided to try ET nuts.
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The ETs protruded through the wheel maybe .020", which I fully understand might suggest ET is not needed here.

Nonetheless, we have the technology and I chucked them in my collet closer and took .050" off each to give me some wiggle room. Psychologically it just makes me feel a little safer to have that additional thread engagement and a bit of lug centric as well as hub centric
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Do it! The press includes 20,000 Man Card points. Most pressing is about prep and being conscientious: clean bores if rusty, I use a light coat of grease, bevel edges to aid in starting (where applicable) and take the time to make sure it drives in square or plumb. If you see it cocking, stop before you get into a situation you can't reverse.
Some of the shells are extra fragile. If you accidentally start one slightly crooked, things go downhill fast. Oops.
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(Don’t worry, I only pressed this in for entertainment value. I re-did the job with a new bushing after these pictures were taken.)

How hard of a job was that to do with a press? I need to do this in my Mazda and had been entertaining the idea of buying a harbor freight press and doing it myself. Always wanted to have a press and thought this might be a good way to fund the job. (Buying brand new control arm assemblies is about as expensive as two bushings and a harbor freight press).
It’s sort of a pain — you need to find exact sized cups. So unless a special tool is available, you’ll be doing some hunting. As @D60 mentioned, starting the bushing straight is crucial. This can be very challenging since the bore and/or bushing are often slightly oval.

By the time you figure all this out, it is often easier to buy lifetime warranty control arms with low quality bushings.
 
@ripcord that was the thought but..... after beating the lower ball joint off, the knuckle has to drop but the A arm hits the CV tripot and cannot clear the ball joint. I would have to take the whole lower A arm with it.

This is a big reason why I rip things down early, inspect and use antiseize on reassembly. So when you need to replace parts, years later, you can avoid this mess.
 
Did my RAV4 coolant a week ago but it's leaking. Traced the leak to a little hose on the top of the engine and ordered a new one from Toyota. The old hose mushed in and the spring clamp wasn't compressing it enough to make a seal. Hopefully it's sealed up now. Of course, this required another 30 minute bleed procedure.
 
Nearly guaranteed the oil pump pickup is nicely packed with pieces of guide(s). I'm convinced the large majority of 2Vs are driving around with broken guides. They don't slap like the 3Vs so you don't know until you open it up.

This one wasn't so bad....Just a little plastic is missing.

Found where the headgasket was compromised on #1 cylinder.

Went to work on a 1957 Belair Convertible.....Beautiful car & a well done older restoration.
Lower control arm bushings.....Got those done easily enough.
Resealing the power steering spool/control valve assembly, Unfortunately it's missing a washer & I got to wait on parts.

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Got a New Holland loader in for parts and scrap. It’s going to get cut in half. Back half minus the axle to the crusher and the front half to someone that can use the parts(hopefully). If not it’s all going to scrap. Fired up my old Brigadier wrecker to unload it.

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Where do you find the time??? You get into some of the coolest stuff!!
 
Weather is finally letting up so I pulled the leaking water pump off of our Roatrek camper with the 5.2L Magnum. What a project! It has been on the camper since it was made in 1992. The camper is a 93 and we have traveled all over in it and at least 6-7 times to Yellowstone from Kentucky. I can't get the fitting for the heater return line out of the old pump so I am ordering some from Amazon. Won't be able to put the new one on till I get those fittings. Have to get our Coach House camper ready tomorrow for a 5 day adventure at Canal campground near Barkley Lake.
 
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