What are you working on today?
- Thread starter Amkeer
- Start date
Lotta work but I know you're capable of it!
I've got an '08 F350 4x4 with dead V10 in CO you can have cheap
I’ll definitely keep it in mind! I found an 06 F250 frame and axles a couple hours from here that I’m gonna try to grab. It has everything I need. I’m on the hunt for a ZF5 and transfer case but I have a truck here with one I may tear apart.Lotta work but I know you're capable of it!
I've got an '08 F350 4x4 with dead V10 in CO you can have cheap
Actually should be plenty of options since every Ford motor '03-10 was complete garbage.
3V = garbage ('03/4 excluded)
6.0 = garbage
6.4 = mega garbage
- Joined
- Dec 9, 2002
- Messages
- 1,306
Replaced the front brake pads and rotors on the 2018 Equinox- really didn't need it at 83,558 miles but I'd figure at almost 8 years why not. Also flushed out the old brake fluid. Did an oil change, replaced the air filter and cabin air filter. Spark plugs aren't due for another 30,000 miles. Surprisingly very little rust on the undercarriage for a Minnesota car.
First service on the wife's '15 Tundra purchased last fall. I got it from Courtesy Acura in Denver and since they said they had changed the oil and it was obviously very clean on the dipstick, I left it alone.
Well the plastic filter housing was stupid tight. In fact nothing was getting it to budge so I finally put my 1/2 mid-torque on the 1-1/16" hex, reasoning a quick "shock" might snap it free. This actually worked great BUT it started to twist the hex off the aluminum cup. I'm bummed because I like this older version of the Motiv more than the new ones
Perhaps the greater takeaway here is that Courtesy Acura in Littleton CO doesn't know how to change oil on a Toyota
Then I figured I'd change the front diff fluid while I was in the area. I was smart enough to make sure I could get the fill plug first, and this wasn't too tight.
BUT THEN the front diff drain refused to move. I can actually fit my BIG 2967 in there, and even THAT wouldn't move it. I tried my 36" Snappy breaker bar -- nope, just gradually rounding the 10mm hex. I finally had to heat the pig with the blue wrench, at which point she came out with ease.
Faced with a partially rounded 10mm female hex, I didn't want to reinstall as it was. I found a metric flange nut and welded it on
Now I can remove with a 17mm socket as God intended -- so much better
I filled with 75W90 Daily Protection (gasp!). The front diff seized as soon as I backed it out of the shop because I didn't use synthetic. Remember: you read it on the internet so it has to be true.
Well the plastic filter housing was stupid tight. In fact nothing was getting it to budge so I finally put my 1/2 mid-torque on the 1-1/16" hex, reasoning a quick "shock" might snap it free. This actually worked great BUT it started to twist the hex off the aluminum cup. I'm bummed because I like this older version of the Motiv more than the new ones
Perhaps the greater takeaway here is that Courtesy Acura in Littleton CO doesn't know how to change oil on a Toyota
Then I figured I'd change the front diff fluid while I was in the area. I was smart enough to make sure I could get the fill plug first, and this wasn't too tight.
BUT THEN the front diff drain refused to move. I can actually fit my BIG 2967 in there, and even THAT wouldn't move it. I tried my 36" Snappy breaker bar -- nope, just gradually rounding the 10mm hex. I finally had to heat the pig with the blue wrench, at which point she came out with ease.
Faced with a partially rounded 10mm female hex, I didn't want to reinstall as it was. I found a metric flange nut and welded it on
Now I can remove with a 17mm socket as God intended -- so much better
I filled with 75W90 Daily Protection (gasp!). The front diff seized as soon as I backed it out of the shop because I didn't use synthetic. Remember: you read it on the internet so it has to be true.
- Joined
- Jul 18, 2022
- Messages
- 588
2017 F150 168k 5.0 V8
My truck made it this long on the original water pump and with the rest of the cooling system at 9 years old. I went nuclear and replaced everything with Motorcraft parts. Water pump, every hose, seal, oring, new expansion tank, radiator, thermostat. Only 2 parts that touch coolant weren't replaced heater valve and heater core.
All the old parts.
Some differences in the new vs original thermostat. The coolant neck had alot of corrosion on the steel nipple so I got a new one.
My truck made it this long on the original water pump and with the rest of the cooling system at 9 years old. I went nuclear and replaced everything with Motorcraft parts. Water pump, every hose, seal, oring, new expansion tank, radiator, thermostat. Only 2 parts that touch coolant weren't replaced heater valve and heater core.
All the old parts.
Some differences in the new vs original thermostat. The coolant neck had alot of corrosion on the steel nipple so I got a new one.
IPD rear chassis brace in the Volvo S60.
2016 KL Cherokee 3.2: replaced oil cooler with Dorman aluminum, oil change, new spark plugs, installed one-piece lug bolts and LED fog lamps.
The vehicle has 128k and had Champion plugs which I imagine were factory? Based on condition I think they were original with all 128k on them. Here's three different plugs with obvious degradation -- and maybe a bit of coolant consumption
Here's a fourth and even the naked eye can tell that's not a .044" gap:
Some hack had been down to the cooler before. I spotted the Dorman logo on the lower intake. I don't even want to know....
New cooler installed:
The vehicle has 128k and had Champion plugs which I imagine were factory? Based on condition I think they were original with all 128k on them. Here's three different plugs with obvious degradation -- and maybe a bit of coolant consumption
Here's a fourth and even the naked eye can tell that's not a .044" gap:
Some hack had been down to the cooler before. I spotted the Dorman logo on the lower intake. I don't even want to know....
New cooler installed:
The first one looks like it's got barnacles growing on it.
Submersible well pump quit working last night at 10pm
I had visions of pulling the pump up 100' in the middle of winter, but a little youtubing and some poking around found this unhappy looking capacitor!
There was no pop at all left it it when I shorted it out before removing. The local plumbing shop had one in stock and we were back to having running water again this afternoon.
I had visions of pulling the pump up 100' in the middle of winter, but a little youtubing and some poking around found this unhappy looking capacitor! There was no pop at all left it it when I shorted it out before removing. The local plumbing shop had one in stock and we were back to having running water again this afternoon.
That's what I thought, too! Usually takes a lot for iridium to show any visual wear.
I was always taught that's from burning coolant....?
That said, I don't think it's reason to panic or jump into a HG job
Passenger side lower ball joint replacement on the LR3. Started making a horrible creaking noise a week or two ago so dug in and found out that it had quite a bit of play. Also discovered it need new brake pads up front too.
Today looked a little different than my normal days and I only took one picture. I was asked by a local excavation company owner that I do a lot of dump trucking for to be a third set of hands on a small concrete pour they did this morning. This was only my second experience pouring concrete but I’d say it went great. I greatly improved my finishing skills.
After that I ran up north to check out a Cat 951 track loader that died on the owner. Couldn’t find anything wrong other than air in the secondary fuel filter so I reprimed it and ran it for a while. Don’t know what caused it to suck air but I’m going to put a new primer pump on it as it was leaking while pumping on it.
Then came back to town to clean the fuel screen in one of our tankers at the fire department. We have algae in the tank I’m trying to work out so about once a month I pull the screen and clean it out. I went over all of our brush trucks and skid units to double and triple check that they are ready to go as we are in extreme fire danger for the next few days. I need the trucks to get to the fire and work even if I’m not in one.
Pulled the seats and carpet out of the 86 Ford project and found some rot in the floor where the extended cab windows have leaked. I know the exterior extended cab rockers are available but I’m going to have to look for floor pan options. For now everything can dry out and it’ll get a vinyl mat when I put it back together.
After that I ran up north to check out a Cat 951 track loader that died on the owner. Couldn’t find anything wrong other than air in the secondary fuel filter so I reprimed it and ran it for a while. Don’t know what caused it to suck air but I’m going to put a new primer pump on it as it was leaking while pumping on it.
Then came back to town to clean the fuel screen in one of our tankers at the fire department. We have algae in the tank I’m trying to work out so about once a month I pull the screen and clean it out. I went over all of our brush trucks and skid units to double and triple check that they are ready to go as we are in extreme fire danger for the next few days. I need the trucks to get to the fire and work even if I’m not in one.
Pulled the seats and carpet out of the 86 Ford project and found some rot in the floor where the extended cab windows have leaked. I know the exterior extended cab rockers are available but I’m going to have to look for floor pan options. For now everything can dry out and it’ll get a vinyl mat when I put it back together.
No good deed goes unpunished. Decided to do the drivers side since I had the part. Out tie rod nut was seized to the stud, tried kroil, impact, BFH, the Allen key hole stripped out so pounded in a few different size Torx sockets, nothing, so gave up and luckily there was enough room to get the angle grinder in there and just cut the stud.
Finally finished the Bambi Ranger after getting it back from paint. Adjusted the hood and bumper fitment a bit, aimed the headlights in the dark last night and got a new emblem on the grille.
Today was colder and I'm paranoid about trim tape in low temps. I warmed the shop a bit then clamped it for ~20 minutes
Ooooh shiny
Ran it through the car wash and dropped it off. Unfortunately I'm embarrassed to say the hood has a good bit of hail damage which was seemingly invisible (to me at least) when the donor hood was flat gray. Now with fresh paint it stands out. So I'll have a talk with the owner about this and make it right. The lesson for me is use your fingertips to look for damage!!
Before:
After (terrible lighting in winter shade light)
Today was colder and I'm paranoid about trim tape in low temps. I warmed the shop a bit then clamped it for ~20 minutes
Ooooh shiny
Ran it through the car wash and dropped it off. Unfortunately I'm embarrassed to say the hood has a good bit of hail damage which was seemingly invisible (to me at least) when the donor hood was flat gray. Now with fresh paint it stands out. So I'll have a talk with the owner about this and make it right. The lesson for me is use your fingertips to look for damage!!
Before:
After (terrible lighting in winter shade light)
I did just over 350 miles in the dump truck today so my motivation is pretty much gone. I scraped a little bit of the rubberized insulation/sound deadening garbage off the drivers side floor pan. Overall the cab is in exceptionally good shape except where the side windows leaked and soaked the carpet for years. I’ve been unsuccessful in removing the rear seat hinges as the bolt heads are almost rusted flat and there’s limited access between the bracket and the wall. I think I’m going to drill them out from the bottom of the cab. There’s no patch panels available for the rear of the extended cab or crew cab trucks so I’m either going to have to fabricate the panels myself or find another cab I can cut the pieces out of.
