What are you working on today?

Took the day off from dump trucking and worked on try new 86 F250 today. I expected the fuel system to be a big problem and it is. I was able to get solid fuel flow up to the injection pump by some miracle and what’s in the tank really doesn’t look/feel/smell all that bad. I put on a new filter with 50/50 ATF and gray bottle Power Service since that’s what I had laying around. I tired every trick I knew but can’t get the injection pump to flow fuel anywhere except out the return. I pulled the pump and took the transfer pump section apart and as expected it’s got a lot of varnish and junk. The pump and injectors will be going out for a rebuild. I may pull a pump out of another truck I have just to see how this engine runs because the rebuild will be more than I paid for the truck.

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Took the day off from dump trucking and worked on try new 86 F250 today. I expected the fuel system to be a big problem and it is. I was able to get solid fuel flow up to the injection pump by some miracle and what’s in the tank really doesn’t look/feel/smell all that bad. I put on a new filter with 50/50 ATF and gray bottle Power Service since that’s what I had laying around. I tired every trick I knew but can’t get the injection pump to flow fuel anywhere except out the return. I pulled the pump and took the transfer pump section apart and as expected it’s got a lot of varnish and junk. The pump and injectors will be going out for a rebuild. I may pull a pump out of another truck I have just to see how this engine runs because the rebuild will be more than I paid for the truck.

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For some reason, this body style has my favorite truck interior of all times. It was immensely practical while also unusually comfortable, and simple yet elegant. These pictures bring back good memories.
 
'98 Sexy Sunfire: the passenger door lock refused to "click." The owner told me he had to hold the lock button out and then pull the door handle to open from the inside.

First I tried to just lube it thoroughly, which did nothing. Then I tore the door panel off to get a look at the linkages from the handle to the latch. Exercising these had fixed the rear doors on a '00 Cavalier but did nothing here.

Finally I removed the entire latch and found the locking portion relies on plastic pieces to cam over, but they simply could not be coerced. I ordered a new (SKP) latch from RA and swapped the rods over:
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Arrow indicates the offending plastic pieces that refused to work, also note I stripped the rod bushings for my stash
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A typical door surgery day:
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I had to remove three rivets which I replaced with M6x1.0 rivnuts.
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The next guy will thank me:
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The mobile mechanic came today from the John Deere dealer. They were working on the 2024 325 skid steer. The minor issue was the leaking valve cover gasket, the major issue was hydraulic whine. It only occurs when the boom was being lowered. Load or no load, no difference. Other than that, it operates fine.

So what was found? Not a **** thing. In fact, for whatever reason, its now limited to 2000rpm and while it operates, its an absolute dog. Great.
 
While clearing brush in preparation to replace a 30 year old water line that was damaged in the hard freeze a few weeks ago, I broke a hydraulic fitting on the front end loader. It turns out to have been a terrible design (pressed in vs welded) in the first place. Taking advantage of the situation to upgrade all 4 cylinders and the hydraulic pump that is supposed to make the tractor much more capable and smooth operating. I will also meditate if there is any armor I can add to the loader to protect the lines. Making preparations this Saturday for the upgrades, its supposed to rain most of the day.

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On small cylinders like this the fittings or ports are usually projection welded (resistance welded) and they can not withstand much side load at all. I would ensure your hoses are routed out of the way and can't get snagged. You could add some cylinder guards by adding band clamps around a sheet metal cover.
 
1993 Dakota: replace rear u-joint at t-case. These use a stupid Moog 245 or Spicer 5-789X which has inside snap rings (weak) and a seemingly arbitrary 1.078" cap dia. That doesn't translate to anything metric and makes no sense unlike 1.0625". ANYWAY, it was so bad it had broken the cap in-place:
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Then 2005 F350 with 352k miles: broken left main leaf. Still working on sourcing a used pack
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So my friend comes by today and says his sled isn't running. This is the Polaris 550 I had worked on. Wont start at all, popped a few times but thats it. He found the PTO side plug had some debris in it and both plugs soaked. He tried for an hour with no luck.

I figured this would happen a few more times as debris was likely still hiding deep in the crank case. While on my way, he called and said he got it going. Looks like PTO side died and flooded her out. Given time to clear it, clean the plug and away she goes.
 
The used Pentastar is in surprisingly good shape. Sub 20% leakdown on all cylinders, Cams are in good shape as well as the timing components.
2 of the spark plug tubes are mangled a little bit....Have those on order.
Getting all new Mopar followers, Oil cooler, Oil Pump, Front & rear seals, Valve cover gaskets.

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While clearing brush in preparation to replace a 30 year old water line that was damaged in the hard freeze a few weeks ago, I broke a hydraulic fitting on the front end loader. It turns out to have been a terrible design (pressed in vs welded) in the first place. Taking advantage of the situation to upgrade all 4 cylinders and the hydraulic pump that is supposed to make the tractor much more capable and smooth operating. I will also meditate if there is any armor I can add to the loader to protect the lines. Making preparations this Saturday for the upgrades, its supposed to rain most of the day.

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Installed the new cylinders this afternoon and evening. Installed the upper ones backwards and had to redo them, but the end result was definitely an increase in power, in high gear was able to pickup the same amount of gravel that the tractor struggled in low gear. Tomorrow morning installing an upgraded hydraulic pump and expecting to be able to pickup that Kia.

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Went to local pick 'n pull today and got another leaf for the '05 F350. Found the JY cat who was extremely helpful (read: in the way) while I pulled the leaf pack. He's also not fazed by a 2967 going full beans on a 24mm socket.
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I couldn't find an exact pack -- remember Ford's fondness of 1,326 spring codes during this era :rolleyes: -- but all I really needed was a '99-07 main leaf from a pickup (the C&C is actually a couple inches shorter eye-to-eye it seems).

So, I had to open up the spring clamp to swap the donor main leaf into the existing pack. I had a lot of fun with the blue wrench. I think I like working with metal because it's stubborn like me.

FIRE FIRE!!
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Open
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Still glowing, returned to mostly-stockish sans the now melted plastic which does nothing anyway
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Cleaned out the spring eyes with a bore brush
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I never trust the flag nuts. For giggles I welded this one. The next guy might thank me
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This hydraulic cart is a game changer. Leaf packs can be deceptively heavy.
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Pulling the axle forward with a ratchet strap to get the center pin to drop in
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More work on the 2008 Eclipse.

Replaced the front and rear struts due to a leaking RF strut. Since these were original at 205K I recommended replacing all 4. I also replaced the front strut mounts with KYB; let’s hope I do not regret this.

The front KYB struts had too much paint in the brake line bracket threads so those holes required some cleaning with a tap.

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When I recently did front struts on the '98 Sexy Sunfire, those strut mounts have a bearing you can actually order separately. It just drops in between two plates by hand. Score one for smart design.
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It was also the first setup I've personally encountered with press-in studs for the strut/knuckle interface. It's a dual shoulder knurl, with the first pressing into the knuckle and a slightly larger diameter pressing into the strut tabs. I figure the idea was to perfectly replicate alignment -- assuming all struts are manufactured exactly the same (hope springs eternal)
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Slowly getting rid of the stupid stuff the previous owners of my WRX have done. Biggest thing was the darn wing. Thought I found a trunk that was exactly the right color, but turned out not so. I'll get it painted when it warms up.

What I started with

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"New" trunk

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Installed and sorta adjusted. Body shop will do the final.

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Removed salvage yard writing

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While I had the heater out, I did a quick late winter mini-detail. Rinseless wash, ceramic quick detailer, and scrubbed the windows.

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It's 60F here in the Quad Cities today. I took advantage of this unreasonable warm weather to wash both the Ram and T&C. I also smoked some country ribs and still have 2 racks of ribs on the smoker.

Now I'm watching the Daytona 500 since my work is done.

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It's 60F here in the Quad Cities today. I took advantage of this unreasonable warm weather to wash both the Ram and T&C. I also smoked some country ribs and still have 2 racks of ribs on the smoker.

Now I'm watching the Daytona 500 since my work is done.

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Looks delicious!
Daytona 500 is looking like my old morning commute to Crystal City or my GS lined up his Hot Wheels collection.
 
Cut the welded-on flatbed off the 1986 F250 this morning and put it out by the highway for sale. The plan is to fit a proper skirted bed later on that actually fits the truck correctly. Did a bunch of prep work to paint the frame but it still needs a lot more. It won’t be a professional job-just some black Rustoleum spray paint but it will help preserve it. Took the back tires off in an attempt to free up the rear brakes. Backing the adjusters off wasn’t happening so after my patience ran out I took a sledgehammer to them. They both came off in 3-4 pieces. I’m leaning towards a Super Duty axle swap so I don’t plan to fix the brakes but I need it to roll. Took both tanks out and I’m glad it didn’t run considering the condition of the inside of the tanks. They are awful. I ordered the 38 gallon rear tank and will be removing the fuel selector valve and running new lines to simply the system. I’m not going back to dual tanks. The injection pump goes to R&D IDI Performance in Wyoming tomorrow to be rebuilt and they are supplying 8 new injections and a set of billet aluminum fuel return rails.

Also replaced a leaking output shaft seal in one of the wing gearboxes in our Rhino brush hog but didn’t get any pics. Refilled the gearbox with Schaeffer 75w140.

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I’m leaning towards a Super Duty axle swap so I don’t plan to fix the brakes but I need it to roll. Took both tanks out and I’m glad it didn’t run considering the condition of the inside of the tanks. They are awful. I ordered the 38 gallon rear tank and will be removing the fuel selector valve and running new lines to simply the system. I’m not going back to dual tanks. The injection pump goes to R&D IDI Performance in Wyoming tomorrow to be rebuilt and they are supplying 8 new injections and a set of billet aluminum fuel return rails.

Also replaced a leaking output shaft seal in one of the wing gearboxes in our Rhino brush hog but didn’t get any pics. Refilled the gearbox with Schaeffer 75w140.

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What's the plan to get 8x170 up front?
 
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