What are you working on today?

[ClutchDisc]

Replaced the failed passenger side NAPA CV axle on my 2006 Sienna this morning. The NAPA axle lasted about 35k before starting to fail, and by 40k it was bad enough that I finally replaced it today. I went with a new OEM Toyota axle this time, hopefully it will last a lot longer. Junk aftermarket parts…

I will still warranty the NAPA axle for a spare to keep on hand.

New vs old:

New axle installed:

 

[CarbonToast]

Replaced the spare tire on my 2017 F150. For $142 out the door I got a 265/70/17 115T Mohave HT from discount tire.

Kind of overkill but it would suck to be 100 miles from home/help with a travel trailer and a questionable spare. Now i feel like could complete a weekend trip/not rush out for a tire.

 

[wavinwayne]

Changed oil in my son's Jeep Renegade.
Blew leaves off driveway and sidewalk.
Repaired some loose handrails on front steps. Removed Tapcons from stripped holes in brick, stuck the end of plastic zip tie down into the holes, re-installed Tapcons. Works surprisingly well.

 

[pacstud]

Going to tackle my daughter's 2003 Ford Focus with a stuck ignition lock cylinder. I am hoping I can get it going (it's not at home) so I don't have to tow it. Once I get the key turned, the rest gets easy (replacement on the way). I even found out there's a nice little Dorman option that allows for reprogramming of new key, saves on the Ford Tax. I could rekey the old cylinder, still might once it's out, but ugh.

Just realized researching today it has a shifter release button, so I'm hoping the park pawl is part of the problem (alliteration a coincidence). It's currently parked on an inclined driveway.

Otherwise, it's graphite and wiggling for a half hour. I will probably jiggle and wiggle.

 

[BrianF]

Did a quick patch job to try and get more out of the electric over hydraulic dump trailer. Its an 8x16" tri axle. It really began to struggle this winter so we upgraded the battery to a group 27 90 amp hour and swapped out the fluid to Dex 6 synthetic. It kind of worked but really not big improvement. It is sluggish and would drain the battery for one load. Prior you might get 2 loads.

I exchanged 5 litres of AW22 into the system and upgraded to a group 31 100 amp hour battery. We shall see how it fares out..... The prior battery will now be a swap over between charges to get more productivity.

 

[cptbarkey]

It was a productive long weekend, finished refurbing a Toro Workman, and starting to rebuild a Kubota RTV 900, used engine went in yesterday. Ordered some parts from Coleman Equipment, filters, a few hoses and water pump gaskets.

 

[pacstud]

Going to tackle my daughter's 2003 Ford Focus with a stuck ignition lock cylinder. I am hoping I can get it going (it's not at home) so I don't have to tow it. Once I get the key turned, the rest gets easy (replacement on the way). I even found out there's a nice little Dorman option that allows for reprogramming of new key, saves on the Ford Tax. I could rekey the old cylinder, still might once it's out, but ugh.

Just realized researching today it has a shifter release button, so I'm hoping the park pawl is part of the problem (alliteration a coincidence). It's currently parked on an inclined driveway.

Otherwise, it's graphite and wiggling for a half hour. I will probably jiggle and wiggle.

Towed home for tool access. Drill, baby, drill. Pulled the lock pin and it now works, just has a hole in it lol. I'll swap it out tomorrow and program the new key.

Relatively easy procedure, will be finding teeny tiny metal shavings for the next year probably.

 

[D60]

Did an oil change on the dirty hippie Vanagon with EJ25. Used a Fram Drive 7317 closeout from Advance and 10W30.

Even after ~5.5 qts it was barely showing on the dipstick, but most results say these EJ swaps take 5 qts with aftermarket pan.

I dunno, it was showing on the dipstick, so I sent it. I only got 4 qts out (shrug). These dipstick tubes look like a piece of PEX on these swaps, so is the length of the tube even correct? NO IDEA

 

[cptbarkey]

Did an oil change on the dirty hippie Vanagon with EJ25. Used a Fram Drive 7317 closeout from Advance and 10W30.

Even after ~5.5 qts it was barely showing on the dipstick, but most results say these EJ swaps take 5 qts with aftermarket pan.

I dunno, it was showing on the dipstick, so I sent it. I only got 4 qts out (shrug). These dipstick tubes look like a piece of PEX on these swaps, so is the length of the tube even correct? NO IDEA

how was the smell

 

[BrianF]

Well, the reed valve I ordered has still not arrived. Will use every effort to never use that company and Canada Post ever again. Ordered it January 1st (would assume a grace period due to the holiday), order was not processed until the 10th and shipped on the 11th.

Now Canada Post, a notoriously poor run company, kept pushing off the arrival date. Supposed to arrive on the 18th, then end of day 19th and end of day today. Still not in.

Of course, they ran into issues at the shipping black hole known as Winnipeg (had this happen many times before). Likely the mail carrier was robbed and stabbed (known nationwide as the Winnipeg handshake) but after an extraordinarily long wait at our underfunded and over capacity hospitals, was likely patched up and sent on their way.

So, tomorrow I drive 450+km back north for 8 days of work and the sled waits yet again. Thankfully, the owner, a friend, is in no rush and heads out on a much earned hot holiday for a week.

But, in the spirit of white trash, I made a somewhat crude heat shield between the cooling intake and muffler. As you can see, its a tight fit and anything to keep heat out of the cooling system at low speed helps.

 

[BrianF]

Edit, I used some corrugated tin that I flattened with the skidsteer, tin snips and rivets. Its right out of
Sunnyvale Trailer Park.

 

[The_Jeff]

Well the driver's inner rod was a different animal. It has actually bent the tie rod removal tube without even budging the tie rod, while using a 6 ft breaker bar, and has zero corrosion. Looks like the car will need to be put back enough to park it till I come up with a way to get it off. This inner rod was extremely loose unlike the other side.

If you take the bellows off and clean out the grease, stick the tie rod as straight out as you can then weld the ball joint into one blob. Then throw your best pipe wrench on whatever you can get purchase on.

 

[meep]

Edit, I used some corrugated tin that I flattened with the skidsteer, tin snips and rivets. Its right out of
Sunnyvale Trailer Park.

Yeah I was trying to figure that out! Thanks for clarifying!

 

[clinebarger]

Still waiting for the Friction Module for the '16 Camaro 8L90, But did get the valve body finished up.

Also did a Valve Body rebuild on a '21 Silverado 2.7L/8L90 with 170,000 miles. Dealer wanted to sell him a reman unit, But after dropping the pan I saw no reason for a rebuild at this time.
All the valves besides the Signal Accumulators/Pulse Dampers vacuum tested good, Replaced all 7 signal accumulator pistons with Sonnax "ZIP" parts.
All the clutch control valves besides the S4 also got replaced with Sonnax valves, TCC valves, Pressure regulator & Boost valve.

Fresh Dexron HP & a Quick Learn....Shifts like a new one.

 

[D60]

If you take the bellows off and clean out the grease, stick the tie rod as straight out as you can then weld the ball joint into one blob. Then throw your best pipe wrench on whatever you can get purchase on.

If he turns all the way left I still think there's room for a rosebud in front, facing rear. It's all shadowed in there, so impossible to say.

edit: I guess that'd be RIGHT. Tern da way Dat maks it stik out da mostest.....

 

[D60]

Yesterday was mostly a monkey trying to fornicate with a football:

1) diag'ed a failing solenoid pack on a '14 68RFE. He's got "the insurance" ‐‐ now on his third company, mind you, because he figured out the first two wouldn't pay but refuses to learn NONE of them pay. The insurance of course wants a bunch of nonsense to string us along and I'm in no rush to provide it. So it sits today

2) looked at an '11 Silverado 4.3 where the owner said he smelled coolant in the cab. I can't find anything wrong. No smell, no leaks on floor, no external leaks and held 20psi indefinitely. I did manage to vacuum a nest out of the hood, so that's exciting? I guess?

3) diag'd a failed water pump on a '99 Ram 1500. I installed this Murray in April '24. It's sad parts are so bad now even an aftermarket water pump can't last a couple years. It's only got ~10k miles on it

 

[wander2039]

Since it was in the 40s came down to the place to deliver some stuff and work on a few things. I always make a mental list and when its done I usually stop then enjoy the place. Got the parts car vacuumed out and put in the fence row. Put glass back in it couple weeks ago, use it to store parts. Put the generator in truck in case lose power this weekend.. snow and negatives.

 

[Kennedy01]

Finally finished up the hydro boost yesterday, started working on skimming link bars today. I also clearance bored two steering knuckles for RCV axles.

On the home front, this weekend I did a deal with an old friend of mine to rent out my shop for auto repair while he's laid off. He's got full run of the place with the understanding that if I need it, his work will have to wait and/or be moved out of the way. Currently he's doing a cam and lifters on a 2007 GMC Yukon with an afm 5.3. it's getting the delete treatment.

 

[D60]

My non-profit's '02 CTD: fixed block heater. Fortunately I was smart enough to check for continuity on the cord, and found what was the black as open. Upon closer inspection, that spade had pulled out from years of use.

Started to look at my buddy's '11 F350 6.7 with crank no start. It's not building any fuel rail pressure -- hope it's not the high pressure pump.

 

[D60]

I picked up a second set of 20s for my non-profit's '12 Ram and installed the snows today. Since I deleted TPMS, this is extra awesome -- no concerns about 8 sensors.

Ever since this truck was purchased new in 2012 it's had what you'd swear is blower motor noise. It happens mostly on the two highest fan speeds, and sounds a bit like the high pitch whine you'll get over stereo speakers from interference from the charging system -- back when that was a thing.

When still under warranty the dealer replaced the blower motor, maybe even twice.....but eventually gave up and said they had done all they could.

I started chasing it today and indeed a new blower did NOTHING to cure the noise. I pulled it back out and verified it's quiet when not installed. I made sure neither squirrel cage was contacting anything. I even pulled the resistor to see if it was somehow whistling (never heard of this, but I was on a mission).

FINALLY I found that if I grabbed the HVAC box on the right side of the transmission hump and pulled it forward the noise would stop. Mind you -- the box doesn't really move when I pull on it but more so flexes ever so slightly. This is really nowhere near the blower motor and appears to be more of an airflow harmonics issue than a rotating object issue.

Finally I crammed a carefully calibrated piece of hardwood under the dash. This reduced the noise from a 10 to a 2. I don't really have time to chase it further at the moment.....

If anyone has ever heard of 4th Gen Rams having a blower motor noise that was not ACTUALLY the blower motor, I'd love to know exactly what this is. Airflow is good so the evaporator is not clogged -- and remember it's been present since NEW