What are you working on today?

I did 3 oil changes today.

2012 Honda Civic
2014 Honda CRV
2022 Mazda CX5

I used jobber Pentius PLB7317 oil filters and Pennzoil Platinum High Mileage 0w20 oil.

Thanks to BrendaC for the virgin autopsy photos.

BrendanC

Thread 'Pentus PLB7317 Virgin C&P'

sent to me by @Dave Hess

“Pentius 7317 oil filter. This is brand new. I purchased a case of these on Amazon, 12 for $19 and curious to see the quality.

looks serviceable. the glue was sloppy and flakey but otherwise looks good. nitrile ADBV was a little stiff already. love the heavy duty coil spring. the can jumped off the base plate when cut apart.

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shortyb said:
Rear brakes on former co-worker's 2021 Passat SE, for the second time. In 48K miles :oops:. Several complaints about rapid brake pad wear on the latest Gen Passats and SUPPOSEDLY VW changed the compound in response. Well, it obviously did NOT decrease the wear rate, as this set only lasted a bit over 24K. Both the original set and the replacement set were VWAG labeled pads and listed as "ceramic". All of the pads were this thin which suggests the caliper is working as designed, ie; piston moves freely as do the guide pins (they got cleaned and re-silicone pasted anyway). Sourced a completely different ceramic compound pad from Ate at FCP Euro and will see how long these last. I'm beginning to think it is a brake bias problem and not the components per se.
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That would be a TON of rear bias. How are these performing in icy conditions?
 
D60 said:
That would be a TON of rear bias. How are these performing in icy conditions?
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Seems the conclusion of many that have had to replace pads so soon that it is strong rear bias. Don't know about icy conditions, but have done ABS activation in a gravel parking lot and seems to work fine. She has never complained about rear end squirreliness under hard braking though. Tires are wearing normally.
 
Neighbor’s 10 Camry V6 with 134K.

I found a noisy pulley on the drive belt tensioner during drive belt replacement, so I upsold him free labor to replace the drive belt tensioner.

Toyota only sells the pulley with a new drive belt tensioner assembly.

Replacing the drive belt tensioner requires removal of the radiator fan assembly, upper rad support, alternator and a/c compressor.

Since alternator removal is required I recommended proactive replacement in conjunction with this repair. The alternators on these cars have a moderate tendency to fail before 200K.

Upon disassembly I found someone had replaced the alternator before - it was a Denso reman. Last guy also discarded the front wiring harness bracket and broke most of the wiring harness Christmas trees.

Neighbor later confirmed that the alternator was replaced at 91K. 🤷🏻‍♂️

Unfortunately we were long past the return window for the dealer alternator I ordered, so the new alternator got installed.

It isn’t a difficult job, just tedious. No special tools are required. The entire job takes about 2-2.5 hrs including AC Evac/Recharge. You don’t have to remove the A/C compressor, but it does make the job less painful.

The engine is now nice and quiet. Next visit will be for valve cover reseal and brake fluid exchange. 😐

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2019 Honda Pilot, 82K.

Oil change and tire rotation. Found a torn bushing on the RF lower control arm, LF looks like it will tear any day. RF CV Axle inner boot was also leaking grease, and the RF strut assembly is leaking.

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Pulled my lower back pretty good yesterday, probably from early morning workout.

Replaced the body of our ROES-50 water filter (little spigot type, reverse osmosis). Just bought a whole new assy so I’d have spare parts. The old one developed a crack in the main body.

Put the extra parts under the house. Let me tell you - when you don’t have a lot of space, an encapsulated crawlspace is very helpful. It’s climate controlled…
 
cptbarkey said:
I bought a 6 foot bucket back in September at auction as a project to convert into a skeleton bucket. Welded about halfway on some JD adapter brackets. Need to reinforce them a bit better, but so far so good. The tractor is a bit bouncy with a much heavier bucket, but the most work this one will see is scraping the ground for cactus and ground rocks, not serious dirt work.

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New bucket is working great, now to see how high I can make this pile of cactus.

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shortyb said:
Seems the conclusion of many that have had to replace pads so soon that it is strong rear bias. Don't know about icy conditions, but have done ABS activation in a gravel parking lot and seems to work fine. She has never complained about rear end squirreliness under hard braking though. Tires are wearing normally.
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I've noticed greater rear pad wear in a few newer vehicles. I thought it may have to do with the traction controls systems using the brakes instead of limited slip and locking diffs.
 
Replaced a Poland made WIX air filter in our X3 with a Poland made WIX air filter. Cleaned the box of dust and some sand on the bottom. Checked all the fluids. Replaced the missing Windshield Washer Res Cap the dealer tech lost during the VANOS Bolt recall work. Yep, he lost it and parts didn't have one. Told them forget it and grabbed one at Autozone on the way home. Cleaned the leaves out of the cowl drains. Emptied a gallon of last year's OPE gas into the X3's tank. Came in and my wife commented it needed washing. Lady, it's cold outside!
Gathered up some yard waste and stuff to go to the dump. A trip for tomorrow and I'll hit the no touch car wash on the way back.
 
Straightened up the workbench, then got side tracked.

Found a D-Cell Maglite on the bench that had self-leaking batteries (Duracell :mad:). The old batteries were stuck in the tube with leakage residue.

Removed the switch button cover, loosened the switch and tried tapping the switch (with the batteries) towards that the butt-end, hoping to push the batteries out; no bueno. I suspect the switch was residued in place. Tapped on the batteries from the butt-end to add some vibration, then banged the butt-end on a block of wood and got them out (gravity and momentum).

The leakage residue prevented the new cells from entering; I took a brake cylinder hone and ran it thru the body tube (dry) to remove the schmutz. Saved the torch from the trash heap.

Labeled the body with today's date as a reminder to check the batteries occasionally.
 
2007 Mazda CX9: replaced valve cover gaskets, rear brake job and rotated tires. Sadly from now on I've gotta consider Mahle right down there with Fail-Pro. Also fixed a squealing front brake by cleaning the abutment clips and tweaking them for a better fit.

1997 Subaru Legacy: replaced rear liftgate struts. Apparently from the factory these didn't have the U-clip around the ball stud that we know today. The new struts came with new ball studs, but the spacing on the provided upper brackets felt wrong. I was able to pry the old units off the existing ball studs and pop the new ones in place.
 
Haven't been posting much in regards to work because it's finally become repetitive. Depending on the particular part, I'm doing the same thing every 3-6 weeks. I did have a coolant hose on the lathe rub in to, had to cut it off and reattach it for now to have a coolant feed. Yesterday started another batch of hydro boost. Kind of want to do something different.
 
2011 F350 6.7: replaced hydroboost unit but still no p/s or brake assist after lengthy bleeding. Fortunately this one wasn't my diag -- the owner had already bought the unit and insisted.

It'll get a new pump in the next day or two.

Also changed oil on same vehicle. He had last taken it to a different shop in TX and the filter was the tightest I've personally encountered. It bent the jaws on the 3-jaw GW:
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Finally I had to use the two-jaw variation on the bottom and the owner had to use a band wrench further up. With both of us pulling with all we had it slowly let go.

In other news I'm attempting to warranty the GW even though I only paid $3.22 on a crazy Amazon deal (which was posted here in the Tool or Product Rebates section at one point). We'll see what they say......
 
clinebarger said:
8L90 overhaul, Out of a 2016 Camaro SS....Bad converter shudder & had a distressed clutch pack. Disassembled, Inspected, Parts ordered, Case washed & Initial cleaning of the valve body.

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Chris … recalling the video when you made the leap with the shop. How long now ?
 
In today's installment of a dollar waitin' on a dime, I finally completed the installation of the Diode Dynamics fogs on the '13 Sierra 2500 after receiving the retainer clips.
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Again, a bag of 20 cost me $10 so Diode Dynamics could just include six fresh ones considering the hundreds they charge. The originals all disintegrated when you looked at them but you're told to reuse them.

Then we got a new p/s pump on the '11 F350 6.7 and power brakes and steering returned!!
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We pulled the inner fender and this is the only way to fly. I watched a vid where he did most of it from the top and only pried the inner fender back a bit as needed, which is crazy IMO
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